Sign up with your email address to receive news and updates.
What’s New on Thaifoodmaster
Recipe
Article
March 2023
Khao Mee Seasoned Rice (ข้าวหมี่อย่างคลุก; khaao mee yaang khlook)
This article explores two methods of preparing Mee Fried Rice – the traditional Khao Mee Fried Rice and the lighter, seasoned rice alternative known as khaao mee yaang khlook. Discover the flavor chemistry at play and choose your preferred method for a delicious meal.
Recipe
Article
March 2023
The Ambassador’s House Style Noodle Soup (หมี่น้ำบ้านราชทูต; Mee Naam Baan Raat Thuut)
This soup dish features crispy rice vermicelli noodles, a chicken broth that has a three-flavor profile infused with the aroma of bitter orange, and a plethora of other ingredients such as crispy fried tofu, chicken, pork, crab and pickled garlic.
In Thai, the phrase mee naam baan raat thuut refers to a rice vermicelli noodle soup in the style of the Ambassador’s house. The dish was not new when it appeared in the 1956 book Snacks, Tea Nibbles, Hors D’oeuvres and Drinking Food (ตำราอาหารว่าง – เครื่องน้ำชา และ เครื่องเคี้ยว หรือ กับแกล้ม) by Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), as noodle dishes were often the preferred ingredient for light meals or snacks. In Grandparents Recipes: 100 Years Old Recipes (จานอร่อยจากปู่ย่า สูตรโบราณ 100 ปี), a volume printed in 2014 that highlights recipes from the kitchens of fifteen prominent families, a similar version of the dish is referred to as mee naam baan bpaak naai leert (หมี่น้ำบ้านปาร์คนายเลิศ) and is associated with Nai Lert.
In Thai, the phrase mee naam baan raat thuut refers to a rice vermicelli noodle soup in the style of the Ambassador’s house. The dish was not new when it appeared in the 1956 book Snacks, Tea Nibbles, Hors D’oeuvres and Drinking Food (ตำราอาหารว่าง – เครื่องน้ำชา และ เครื่องเคี้ยว หรือ กับแกล้ม) by Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), as noodle dishes were often the preferred ingredient for light meals or snacks. In Grandparents Recipes: 100 Years Old Recipes (จานอร่อยจากปู่ย่า สูตรโบราณ 100 ปี), a volume printed in 2014 that highlights recipes from the kitchens of fifteen prominent families, a similar version of the dish is referred to as mee naam baan bpaak naai leert (หมี่น้ำบ้านปาร์คนายเลิศ) and is associated with Nai Lert.
Recipe
Article
February 2023
Sour-Sweet Savory Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Bitter Orange (Mee Krob) (หมี่กรอบส้มซ่าทรงเครื่อง ; Mee Graawp)
mee graawp sohng khreuuang (หมี่กรอบทรงเครื่อง), is an exquisitely regal dish of crispy rice vermicelli. The delicate noodles strands are washed and dried, then fried to a crisp light-golden hue. They retain their brittle crunch and airy texture even after being stir-fried with a clinging sticky sauce that encases the noodles in a thin layer of sheen. This sauce, mixed into the noodles together with other ingredients such as thin slices of pickled garlic and bitter orange peel, impart the dish with a light, fresh sweet and sour, and slightly salty and citrusy glaze.
Recipe
Article
February 2023
Gaaeng Raawn (แกงร้อน)
Gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) is a colloquial Thai term that refers to ‘hot curry’. Today, gaaeng raawn is used to denote soups or curries served with steamed rice. While the precise origin of the term is unclear, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was deployed in the 1800s for a specific dish – a Siamese soup featuring glass noodles, cooked as either a coconut or a water-based soup with an assortment of dry ingredients revered in Chinese cuisine. The soup’s potential health benefits, combined with its ease of preparation and subtle yet profound flavor, made it a popular choice for entertaining large groups of people, of all ages and backgrounds. The soup is often augmented with fresh proteins: in its more luxurious versions, multiple proteins may be added, including a combination of chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, and crab meat. Thus, over the years, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was established as a staple source of comfort and warmth for people of all walks of life in Siamese society.
Recipe
Article
January 2023
Duck Curry with Prunes and Apples (แกงเป็ดกับพรูนและแอปเปิ้ล อย่าง ม.ล. เติบ ชุมสาย; gaaeng bpet gap phruun lae aaep bpeern)
When it comes to pairing fruits with meats in savory dishes, it’s hard to match the bold tangy-luscious combination of apples and prunes in this old-fashioned coconut-based spicy curry with braised duck. The dish is seasoned to a spicy, salty, and sour-sweet flavor profile, which is further intensified by the prunes’ subtle nectareous, savory-sweetness and the apples’ fruity, sweet-tartness. This curry is a perfect example of how fruits can complement the already complex and profound aromatic relationships between meaty-savory flavors, the curry paste’s aromatic identity, and the dish’s herbal character of Thai basil and fresh peppercorns – creating a most memorable flavor impression.
Recipe
Article
January 2023
c1941 Roasted Duck Curry with Grapes (Gaaeng Ho) (แกงเป็ดเหาะใส่องุ่น อย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484; gaaeng bpet haw sai angoon)
Grapes have long been associated with prosperity, fertility and abundance across various cultures and historical periods due to the fruit’s large clusters and bountiful growth. In ancient China, grapes were considered a symbol of wealth and nobility, and often deployed as a status symbol among the elite. In Greek mythology, Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility, was often depicted holding a bunch of grapes, further emphasizing the connection between grapes and abundance. This association is also likely rooted in the fact that grapes were a valuable crop in antiquity – used to produce wine and other fermented products, and an important source of food and nutrition. In Indian Ayurvedic texts, grapes are referred to as vineaksha and utilized in treating a variety of ailments, including fever and indigestion.
From the Siamese perspective, the incorporation of fruits in culinary preparations was viewed as a luxurious indulgence, as many fruits commonly available today were once difficult to obtain. Thus the pairing of an extravagant ingredient – such as fruit – with an equally opulent and exclusive delicacy like roasted duck resulted in a dish fit for royalty.
From the Siamese perspective, the incorporation of fruits in culinary preparations was viewed as a luxurious indulgence, as many fruits commonly available today were once difficult to obtain. Thus the pairing of an extravagant ingredient – such as fruit – with an equally opulent and exclusive delicacy like roasted duck resulted in a dish fit for royalty.
Recipe
Article
January 2023
Pan Roasted Duck Breast and Hairy-Fruited Eggplant Curry (แกงเป็ดคั่วมะอึก; gaaeng bpet khuaa maeuk)
The hairy-fruited eggplant, known as ‘maeuk’ in Thai, is similar to the tomato in its unique confluence of sweetness, fruitiness, and savoriness. This ingredient is used in a wide range of Siamese dishes, including curries, salads, relishes, and seasoned rice dishes. This recipe, from the central region of Thailand, is a traditional duck khuaa sohm curry (แกงคั่วส้มเป็ด) that commonly uses garden ingredients to achieve sourness, including the madan (garcinia schomburgkiana) (มะดัน), the sour bilimbi fruit (averrhoa bilimbi) (ตะลิงปลิง), and the hairy-fruited eggplant.
Recipe
Masterclass
January 2023
The Art of Siamese Duck Curries – Theory and Practice (แกงเป็ด – ศิลปะ ทฤษฎี และ การปฏิบัติ)
Duck meat is flavorful, hearty and full-bodied but, to create sumptuous curries, Siamese cooks first had to master the art of deodorizing the meat’s fatty, gamey aroma. In traditional Siamese cuisine, gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด) and gaaeng khuaa sohm (แกงคั่วส้ม) are two coconut-based curry styles that frequently include duck as the main protein. Each cooking style complements the duck meat differently: gaaeng khuaa sohm pairs the duck with sweet and sour fruits, while gaaeng phet uses a blend of carefully chosen dry spices.
This masterclass presents a unique opportunity to delve into the taste awareness and culinary trends of a bygone era, and gain a deeper understanding and appreciation of traditional Siamese duck curries. By studying recipes found in some of the most reputable and trustworthy Siamese cookbooks from the early 1900s and by drawing on the teachings and personal cooking style of the authors – some of the greatest culinary masters of their time – participants will gain insight into the history and flavors of these dishes. As the culinary world continues to evolve, it is important for anyone who cooks Thai food to be attentive to the broader, more nuanced aromatic patterns conveyed by these recipes, so they may cook and imbue these dishes with a sense of longing for what their creators had envisioned.
This masterclass presents a unique opportunity to delve into the taste awareness and culinary trends of a bygone era, and gain a deeper understanding and appreciation of traditional Siamese duck curries. By studying recipes found in some of the most reputable and trustworthy Siamese cookbooks from the early 1900s and by drawing on the teachings and personal cooking style of the authors – some of the greatest culinary masters of their time – participants will gain insight into the history and flavors of these dishes. As the culinary world continues to evolve, it is important for anyone who cooks Thai food to be attentive to the broader, more nuanced aromatic patterns conveyed by these recipes, so they may cook and imbue these dishes with a sense of longing for what their creators had envisioned.
Recipe
Article
December 2022
c1935 Stuffed Potatoes with Bitter Orange Fragrant Beef Gaaeng Garee (แกงกะหรี่บรรจุมัน ม.ล. เติบ กำภู ; gaaeng garee ban joo man)
In Anglo-Indian cuisine, potatoes were used liberally in the curries; alongside the favorite sour chutneys, curries were also accompanied by fried, baked, boiled or mashed potatoes. Although the potato gradually found its way into many iconic Indian dishes, and even into Siamese cuisine, the tuber never replaced the rice of South Asia, despite the intentions of both the British and East Indian company officials.
In the 1935 book Sai Yaowapa (ตำรับสายเยาวภา), Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) reflects the Anglo-Indian style gaaeng garee in her composition of bitter orange-fragrant beef gaaeng garee, which she serves in individual bowls made of fried potatoes, per a recipe recorded by M.L. Terb Gamphu (ม.ล. เติบ กำภู) and M.R. Tuang Sanitwong (ม.ร.ว.เตื้อง สนิทวงศ์).
In the 1935 book Sai Yaowapa (ตำรับสายเยาวภา), Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) reflects the Anglo-Indian style gaaeng garee in her composition of bitter orange-fragrant beef gaaeng garee, which she serves in individual bowls made of fried potatoes, per a recipe recorded by M.L. Terb Gamphu (ม.ล. เติบ กำภู) and M.R. Tuang Sanitwong (ม.ร.ว.เตื้อง สนิทวงศ์).
Recipe
Article
December 2022
Chiang Mai-Style Chicken Gaaeng Garee (แกงเผ็ดกะหรี่เชียงใหม่ ; gaaeng phet garee chiang mai)
I discovered this unusual curry recipe hidden in a 1970 memorial book for Ms. Bootree Gralaksa. Born in Bangkok in 1898, Ms. Bootree spent her entire life, from childhood on, in a wooden house on Maha Chak Road (Pra Nakorn). One could say that she was born to be a great cook; just fourteen years old when her mother died, Ms. Bootree became the sole caregiver for her four siblings, a duty that she performed with a love and attention that endowed her with remarkable cooking skills. Her memorial book showcases now-forgotten dishes that were popular in the Bangkok of the early 1900s, such as Beautiful Curry (แกงหงษา ; Gaaeng Hohng Saa), and also includes some of her one-of-a-kind culinary creations – such as this dish, which she dubbed “Chiang Mai-Style Spicy Curry”.
Recipe
Article
December 2022
c1889 Garee Curry with Shrimp and Cucumber (แกงกะหรี่กุ้งกับแตงกวา; gaaeng garee goong gap dtaaeng gwaa)
In this old-fashioned coconut-based curry, orangey shrimp and bright green cucumber shine in a golden haze of curry powder, caressed by the light breeze of Indian flare. Cucumbers are used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine as a coolant, to offset internal heat and to resolve fevers. Thus, like a refreshing oasis in the middle of a shimmering desert, the cucumber counterbalances the chili’s internal heat energy and mellows the fragrant, earthy undertones of the spice blend in the dish.
Recipe
Article
December 2022
Mixed Clear Shrimp Soup with Salted Fish, Shrimp, Cucumber, Mango and Pickled Garlic (แกงนอกหม้อ ; gaaeng naawk maaw)
Gaaeng naawk maaw is a light and refreshing soup served at room temperature. The ingredients are meticulously sliced as if for a salad, placed in a serving bowl, and covered with a salty and naturally sweet shrimp broth. At the table, diners can adjust the soup to their preferred flavor profile using granulated sugar, lime juice, or pickled garlic brine; hence the name – gaaeng naawk maaw – which literally means “a curry dish outside the pot” or “to cook curry outside the pot”. (Note: The word gaaeng (แกง) in Thai is both a verb and a noun).
Recipe
Masterclass
November 2022
The Golden Trails of Curry Powder – เรื่องราวของผงกะหรี่
Over the centuries, the Siamese culinary identity was shaped by foreign influences, absorbing and reflecting the culinary codes and gastronomy cultures of neighboring countries with more sophisticated gastronomic traditions such as Jambudvipa (India) and China. Then, on April 18, 1855, the Bowring Treaty was signed. This agreement between the British Empire and the Kingdom of Siam liberalized foreign trade in the Kingdom, opening Siam to the western world, Indian labor, opium – and curry powder.
Siamese cuisine is precise in terms of the aromatic profile of its curries, relying on complex pastes that contain a large number of aromatics, both fresh and dried. The culinary literature is rife with efforts to understand how to gauge the magical ratios for Siamese curry pastes, which are the secret behind the complexity of the curries.
Conversely, the Anglo-Indian cuisine favored dishes with a low body of heat, diluted broths, and a washed, singular aromatic profile. The curry powder condensed the entire diversity of the Indian subcontinent’s cuisine into a single blend of spices that could be stored in a bottle – a one-stop solution for the curry needs of the English. Their growing infatuation with curry powder-based curries, along with the flourishing foreign trade and the importance of Indian labor in the empire economy, resulted in the introduction of curry powder worldwide. Curry powder eventually became a timeless symbol of Anglo-Indian cuisine, much like the Taj Mahal was the symbol of undying love.
The Siamese aristocracy also hurried to embrace the curry powder; after all, it was a spice mix said to be imbued with the most authentic fragrances of Indian curries, transported directly from the civilized world.
This chapter examines the dishes created along this culinary suture line, where the two different cooking styles interact.
Siamese cuisine is precise in terms of the aromatic profile of its curries, relying on complex pastes that contain a large number of aromatics, both fresh and dried. The culinary literature is rife with efforts to understand how to gauge the magical ratios for Siamese curry pastes, which are the secret behind the complexity of the curries.
Conversely, the Anglo-Indian cuisine favored dishes with a low body of heat, diluted broths, and a washed, singular aromatic profile. The curry powder condensed the entire diversity of the Indian subcontinent’s cuisine into a single blend of spices that could be stored in a bottle – a one-stop solution for the curry needs of the English. Their growing infatuation with curry powder-based curries, along with the flourishing foreign trade and the importance of Indian labor in the empire economy, resulted in the introduction of curry powder worldwide. Curry powder eventually became a timeless symbol of Anglo-Indian cuisine, much like the Taj Mahal was the symbol of undying love.
The Siamese aristocracy also hurried to embrace the curry powder; after all, it was a spice mix said to be imbued with the most authentic fragrances of Indian curries, transported directly from the civilized world.
This chapter examines the dishes created along this culinary suture line, where the two different cooking styles interact.
Recipe
Masterclass
October 2022
Into The Woods – The Story of Jungle Curry (แกงป่า; gaaeng bpaa)
This Masterclass explores the path of Jungle dishes from their first appearance in Siamese culinary literature, investigates their characteristics from the standpoint of the nobility, and investigates the emergence and culture of jungle restaurants.
Recipe
Article
October 2022
Saen Tung-Style Jungle Curry with Beef and Bamboo Shoots (แกงป่าเนื้อใส่หน่อไม้ แบบแสนตุ้ง; gaaeng bpaa neuua sai naaw mai baaep saaen dtoong)
This is my take on the famous jungle curry from the Saen Tung district in Trat province. In Trat it is usually cooked with game meat and thinly sliced pineapple shoots (แขนงสับปะรด).
Recipe
Article
October 2022
Kanchanaburi-Style Snakehead Fish Jungle Curry with Bitter Yellow Eggplants (แกงป่าปลา ; gaaeng bpaa bplaa)
This recipe is adapted from a recipe I obtained from a jungle food restaurant in Kanchanaburi province. The paste is a downgrade of a phrik khing paste – it omits the coriander roots and shallots. In addition, the recipe substitutes the fermented shrimp paste (kapi) with maawn fermented fish paste (กะปิมอญ; gabpi maawn), which is a popular ingredient among the Mon-Burmese population of the western province. The lack of shallots eliminates any sweetness that might impair the sharpness and heat of the dish. Furthermore, a double hit of citrus notes from holy basil are infused into the dish: from the holy basil flowers added to the paste and the holy basil leaves added to the curry.
Recipe
Article
October 2022
History’s first-ever recorded recipe for jungle curry by Lady Plean Passakornrawong, circa 1908 (ปลาดุกแกงป่า อย่าง ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์; bplaa duuk gaaeng bpaa)
This is a coconut-based jungle curry of catfish featuring fresh green chilies, sand ginger and an upcountry herbal charm.
Recipe
Masterclass
October 2022
Old-Fashioned Phat Phrik Khing, Yesteryear’s Travel Food (ผัดพริกขิง อาหารคนเดินทาง)
Phat phrik khing (ผัดพริกขิง) is a dried, fried dish made by frying curry paste in pork lard. It is seasoned with fish sauce and sugar and contains no additional ingredients. As the dish evolved, however, other ingredients such as pork fat cracklings, dried shrimp, smoke-dried fish or fried, fluffy, crispy fish were added. Other examples include the addition of crunchy elements such as fried lotus seeds and fried golden beans; crispy vegetables like morning glory and yardlong beans are also common.
Made to last, an old-fashioned phat phrik khing uses only common pantry ingredients and is relatively simple to prepare. Furthermore, similar to relishes and condiments, it is an adequate accompaniment for rice since it is flavorful and satisfying even in small quantities.
These characteristics – and the fact that it can be stored for many days – make phat phrik khing the perfect food for a long journey. In fact, we learn from the writings of ML Neuuang Ninrat (หม่อมหลวงเนื่อง นิลรัตน์), that the dish was an essential component in the royal travel gear, ensuring that the King and his entourage would not sacrifice a great dining experience, even while traveling.
Phat phrik khing no longer serves as a travel companion nor is it associated with royal cuisine. Instead, the dish has settled into the national food consciousness as a wet, stir-fried dish, similar to phat phrik gaaeng (ผัดพริกแกง), with slices of meat cooked in a curry sauce and yardlong beans, served in curry shops and fast-fry-to-order restaurants across the Kingdom.
This Masterclass follows the path of phat phrik khing from the era of its royal glory and explores its contemporary assimilation into stir-fries and street food.
Made to last, an old-fashioned phat phrik khing uses only common pantry ingredients and is relatively simple to prepare. Furthermore, similar to relishes and condiments, it is an adequate accompaniment for rice since it is flavorful and satisfying even in small quantities.
These characteristics – and the fact that it can be stored for many days – make phat phrik khing the perfect food for a long journey. In fact, we learn from the writings of ML Neuuang Ninrat (หม่อมหลวงเนื่อง นิลรัตน์), that the dish was an essential component in the royal travel gear, ensuring that the King and his entourage would not sacrifice a great dining experience, even while traveling.
Phat phrik khing no longer serves as a travel companion nor is it associated with royal cuisine. Instead, the dish has settled into the national food consciousness as a wet, stir-fried dish, similar to phat phrik gaaeng (ผัดพริกแกง), with slices of meat cooked in a curry sauce and yardlong beans, served in curry shops and fast-fry-to-order restaurants across the Kingdom.
This Masterclass follows the path of phat phrik khing from the era of its royal glory and explores its contemporary assimilation into stir-fries and street food.
Recipe
Article
September 2022
Coconut Cream-Based Chuu Chee of Pork and Shrimp Glazed with Shrimp Tomalley (แกงฉู่ฉี่หมูกับมันกุ้ง; gaaeng chuu chee muu gap man goong)
In the context of Siamese samrub meal planning, this thick chuu chee of pork and shrimp with a reddish coconut-based, curry-like sauce is considered a side dish (ของจาน; khaawng jaan). It consists of small, equal-sized slices of pork meat and shrimp fried in coconut cream together with a phrik khing curry paste. With no other vegetables or herbs, the dish is seasoned using fish sauce and palm sugar to a salty and only slightly sweet profile. Finally, it is glazed with shrimp tomalley poured on top and left unstirred, then cooked covered with the lid on, until the tomalley is baked-cooked. When serving, garnish with hair-thin juliennes of kaffir lime leaves and hand-picked coriander leaves.
Recipe
Article
September 2022
Chuu Chee Curry of Stuffed Banana Chilies with Pork, Shrimp and Crab Meat (ฉู่ฉี่พริกสอดไส้ ; chuu chee phrik yuaak saawt sai)
This chuu chee features avocado-green banana chilies and the pinkish mixture of pork, shrimp and crab meats. The chilies are sliced open and stuffed with a mixture of the meats, which is seasoned with the basic saam gluuhr (สามเกลอ) paste – the Siamese trio of coriander roots, Thai garlic and white peppercorns. The stuffed chilies are then steamed before being cooked in a thick, reddish, coconut cream-based curry. The liquids collected in the tray during the steaming process are packed with the light sweet fruitiness of the banana chilies; these liquids are reserved and added to the broth, producing a bright and light-bodied dish.
Recipe
Article
September 2022
c1908 Chuu Chee with Mackerel (ฉู่ฉี่ปลาทู ; chuu chee bplaa thuu)
A salty-sweet, water-based chuu chee dish that features a thick, almost dry sauce. The deep burnt-red and shiny chuu chee sauce clings to the skin of the crispy mackerel, gold-colored from frying the fish in pork lard. The aromatic profile of the chuu chee complements the mackerel’s rich, full-bodied flavor. Although chuu chee is usually made using freshwater fish, saltwater fish, especially mackerel, is featured in chuu chee dishes prepared along the coasts of the Central Plains. This is especially common during the rainy season, when the mackerel is plentiful and of excellent quality.
Recipe
Masterclass
September 2022
The Narratives of Aesthetics and Patterns in Chuu Chee Dishes (เรื่องฉู่ฉี่)
An ancient Siamese dish, the chuu chee (ฉู่ฉี่) on today’s menus is typically represented as a crisp, fried fish covered in a delightfully thick, warming and flavorful coconut-based curry. While this portrayal is certainly alluring to diners, it may surprise you to learn that chuu chee is not always prepared as a coconut-based dish and is not even considered a proper curry.
Rather, chuu chee is served in consistencies ranging from a thick, wet broth made with coconut cream to a dryer, stir-fry-like dish, in which the paste is fried in pork lard. Moreover, although fish is often the meat of choice, shrimp, chicken and pork were also popular in the past.
This Masterclass explores the path of chuu chee dishes from their first appearance in Siamese culinary literature, and investigates the dish’s narratives of aesthetics and patterns, as described by the cooks of the past.
Rather, chuu chee is served in consistencies ranging from a thick, wet broth made with coconut cream to a dryer, stir-fry-like dish, in which the paste is fried in pork lard. Moreover, although fish is often the meat of choice, shrimp, chicken and pork were also popular in the past.
This Masterclass explores the path of chuu chee dishes from their first appearance in Siamese culinary literature, and investigates the dish’s narratives of aesthetics and patterns, as described by the cooks of the past.
Recipe
Article
August 2022
c1933 Manifold flavors curry – a chicken and pineapple spicy curry (แกงเผ็ดหลากหลายรส; gaaeng phet laak laai roht)
At first glance, this chicken and pineapple curry might seem ordinary or plain. After all, even though spicy curries with sour notes have been relished for ages, they feature repetitive patterns that could be viewed as common and perhaps uninteresting. However, with a calculated yet simple approach, this curry turns corners – quite literally – into a dish with a new flavor melody. It is thus referred to by its author, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), as laak laai roht, a “curry with manifold flavors (หลากหลายรส)”.
Recipe
Article
August 2022
c1933 An Auspicious fish ball curry with two basils (แกงเผ็ดปลาเล็กปลาน้อย; phet bplaa lek bplaa naawy)
Typically, in Central-style curries, different types of basil are not used together. In higher cuisine, it is an unstated – but understood – practice to avoid blending the definitive scents of various basils. A curry’s final herbal identity is intended to remain definitively with its basil: the citrus notes of holy basil; the spicy-woody and pungent flavor of tree basil; the tart fragrance of lemon basil; or the cooling anise sensation of Thai basil.
Recipe
Article
August 2022
Pork liver and firm pork fat fried in batter (มันสลับตับสุกร; man salap dtap soogaawn)
Slices of firm pork fat and pork liver are alternately layered on top of one another and tied into bite-sized bundles using green threads made from spring onion. These one-bite parcels, featuring a layer cake-like appearance and a typical pattern of black and white, are then dipped in batter and deep-fried until they are very lightly golden and crispy on the outside. The dish is served as a snack or a side dish along with a bright fresh red chili and vinegar sauce. The pork and fat layers, opposites across every possible paradigm, intersect as they conform to the “principle of yin and yang.” The complementary qualities of these two – seemingly oddly paired – ingredients is what signifies the actual success of the dish.
Recipe
Masterclass
August 2022
The complete story of turtle curries in Siamese cuisine (เจาะลึกประวัติศาสตร์เรื่องแกงตะพาบน้ำ)
This masterclass examines the exalted position once held by turtle curry, and follows through – using turtle meat substitutes – to recreate the venerable charm of a dish that slowly aged into obscurity.
Faux turtle curry recipes are common in old Siamese food textbooks; similarly, the objective of this masterclass is not to advocate for the consumption of turtle meat but rather to resurrect this dish using substitutes, as generations of Siamese cooking masters have done in the past.
Faux turtle curry recipes are common in old Siamese food textbooks; similarly, the objective of this masterclass is not to advocate for the consumption of turtle meat but rather to resurrect this dish using substitutes, as generations of Siamese cooking masters have done in the past.
Recipe
Article
July 2022
c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
Recipe
Article
July 2022
Grilled beef and mangosteen (or grape) salad with mint dressing, by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (ยำเนื้อย่างกับมังคุดหรือองุ่น; yam neuua yaang gap mangkhoot reuu angoon)
This grilled beef salad with luscious mangosteen (or grapes) is seasoned with a crisp, cooling dressing of fermented shrimp paste and mint. The mangosteen’s tropical character – a flavor redolent of many other fruits – dominates its fruity essence and is a perfect complement to both the grilled meat and the lingering, sour-salty-sweet, minty dressing. Furthermore, citrusy notes of thinly sliced lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, coupled with richness of thickened coconut cream, unite the caramelized, meaty elements with the dish’s fruity spectrum.
Recipe
Article
July 2022
Curry of yellow chilies with whole quail, fresh turmeric and lemon basil (แกงเผ็ดนกกระทาพริกเหลืองสด; gaaeng phet nohk grathaa phrik leuuang soht)
Salty leading and sour-sweet to follow, this coconut-based gaaeng phet spicy curry might be made of chilies, but it is fruitier than it is spicy, and lighter than it is dense. Originally cooked with the meat of game birds, it retains a surprisingly light body that opens space for the birds to fly. The curry is tinted golden orange from a paste imbued with fresh yellow chilies and turmeric; it is perfumed with lemongrass and lemon basil leaves.
Recipe
Article
July 2022
c1937 Shrimp and tomato curry (แกงกุ้งกับมะเขือเทศ คู่มือการครัว นางสาวฉลวย กันตวรรณี พ.ศ. 2480; gaaeng goong gap makheuua thaeht)
Stocked with a contemporary brew of umami-rich ingredients, this ancient, bright and slightly sour coconut-based shrimp and tomato curry demonstrates how simple – yet clever – flavor-layering techniques can spotlight the shrimp and the spectacular savory tomatoes over the curry background.
Recipe
Article
June 2022
c1949 Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa (ยำฟักทองกะทิ ตำราการปรุงอาหารยำ หม่อมหญิงสุภา พ.ศ. 2492; yam fak thaawng Gathi)
The wonted flavor character of Siamese salad dressing is typically composed of short, layered phrases of flavor – sour, salty and sweet – at varying intensities. In this salad, using the most common ingredients, a simple division between the sweet and the sour-salty elements creates a dish with a new and unique figurative character. Furthermore, this abstract flavor line correlates taste with its equivalent texture; sharp and pointed on the sour side, but smooth, cozy and comforting on the sweet side.
Recipe
Article
June 2022
“Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain” Fermented Rice Noodles by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (ขนมจีนครามแดง อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)
From the kitchens of Varadis Palace, this light meal for the Royal Family is comprised of fermented rice noodles with a deep-red sauce, featuring cooked shrimp and chicken pulled into threads, and seasoned with shrimp broth thickened with shrimp tomalley and chili jam. The chili jam is enriched with cooked shrimp meat, crispy fried garlic and shallots, and roasted peanuts and mung beans. The dish is seasoned to a clear three flavor profile and served with shredded green papaya, banana blossom, lime-soaked pink ginger, cooling shredded cucumber, and hand-picked coriander leaves.
Recipe
Article
June 2022
c1908 Fermented rice noodles and golden coconut chicken sauce with an Indian flair (ขนมจีนแขก หรือ ไก่ต้มขนมจีน ; khanohm jeen khaaek)
A gold-tinted coconut-based broth featuring chicken simmered with a generous amount of galangal and turmeric. Warm, silky and soothing, the broth is served over fermented rice noodles seasoned with shiny, red-hued roasted or fried chili jam. The crowning touch is a garnish of crispy fried shallots, spring onions, and coriander leaves, a fitting tribute to the dish’s origins.
Recipe
Article
June 2022
c1936 Arabian noodles – Princess Maao Thongthaem’s Siamese-Orientalist fermented rice noodles light meal (ขนมจีนอาหรับ อย่าง เม้า ทองแถม; khanohm jeen aarap)
From the royal house of the Thongthaem dynasty, this recipe is an unusual and intriguing version of a fermented rice noodle light meal, featuring a light reddish sauce thickened with pounded chicken meat braised in coconut cream and milk, as well as shrimp meat and beans. It is seasoned with chili jam and served with crunchy fresh cucumber and crisp piquant slices of radish and topped with crispy fried garlic and dried chilies fried in coconut cream and butter.
Recipe
Article
June 2022
c1949 Quick-cured oysters with ginger and kaffir lime zest by Maawm Ying Soophaa (หอยนางรมดอง โดย หม่อมหญิงสุภา พ.ศ. 2492; haawy naang rohm daawng)
Cured oysters are a traditional Siamese delicacy which, along with other strong-sour or salty pickled ingredients, often replaced chili relishes in balancing the overall taste intensity distribution of the Siamese samrub. In fact, a similar version called “haawy e-rohm daawng khem (หอยอิ่รมดองเค็ม)” appeared in Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s cookbook Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์).
Recipe
Article
June 2022
c1949 Fermented rice noodles with multi-sour aromatic chicken sauce by Lady Gleep Mahithaawn (ขนมจีนน้ำพริกไก่ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงกลีบ มหิธร พ.ศ. 2492; khanohm jeen naam phrik gai)
Made with fermented rice noodles and an aromatic, multi-sour coconut-based chicken sauce, this is a brilliant dish that is relatively easy to prepare. While considered a light meal, the dish is just as fulfilling as the full-fledged Siamese style khanom jeen naam phrik meal set. And while the latter would have required a full day to prepare and was therefore unsuited for a casual lunch, this clever – and somewhat quicker to make – recipe is bright and delightful, a hallmark of Lady Gleep Mahithaawn’s cooking style (ท่านผู้หญิงกลีบมหิธร) (1876-1961).
Masterclass
May 2022
Siamese Chili Relishes – The Professional Chef’s Guide – น้ำพริก และ เครื่องจิ้ม
At the intersection of culinary culture and traditional lifestyles are Siamese chili relishes – probably the oldest type of Siamese food. In ancient times, relishes were essential to the diet, providing a flavorful accompaniment to rice, the staple food. Then – and today – relishes also are served alongside meats or vegetables, producing a tasty meal as well as promoting healthy nutrition. Chili relishes are an expression of ancestral Siamese culinary emotions, and the foundations of modern Thai cuisine.
In this complete companion to chili relishes, we embark on a journey to discover the origins, classifications and regional varieties of chili relishes. Along the way, we will learn about their ingredients, food pairing rules, and essential and practical preparation techniques.
This comprehensive Masterclass covers everything you need to know about preparing chili relishes creatively and authentically.
In this complete companion to chili relishes, we embark on a journey to discover the origins, classifications and regional varieties of chili relishes. Along the way, we will learn about their ingredients, food pairing rules, and essential and practical preparation techniques.
This comprehensive Masterclass covers everything you need to know about preparing chili relishes creatively and authentically.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
c1933 Luxurious lohn relish (น้ำพริกหลนหรู อย่าง จีบ บุนนาค เจ้าของนามปากกา “หลานแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์” พ.ศ. 2476 ; naam phrik lohn ruu)
A simple yet fun version of lohn relish is presented by Lady Plean’s granddaughter-in-law, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), in her 1933 book Sam Rap Raawp Bpee (สำรับรอบปี).
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Salted duck eggs and shrimp creamy lohn (หลนไข่เค็ม ; lohn khai khem)
Lohn of salted duck eggs is a smooth, rich and creamy relish with a vibrant three-flavor profile of sour-salty-sweet. Unlike other lohn relishes, it does not contain any overbearing fermented ingredients, making it easy to enjoy, and it does not require an acquired taste.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Giant river prawn lohn (กุ้งหลวงหลน ; goong luaang lohn)
This lohn recipe is made using fresh river prawns. The recipe was altered by Lady Plean Passakornrawong (ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์) to provide an alternative to lohn recipes that used pla ra-like fermented shrimp products called กุ้งเจ่า (goong jao) and กุ้งจ่อม (goong jaawm).
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Fermented fish lohn relish (ปลาร้าหลน ; bplaa raa lohn)
Fermented fish products are a common ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisine and widely consumed by people from all walks of life. Therefore, it is not unusual to come across aristocratic recipes for fermented fish lohn. Given the lack of distinctive ingredients or cooking techniques in documented versions of higher cuisine, it is safe to assume that similar preparations of fermented fish lohn were likely enjoyed throughout the Central Plains, both in higher and common vernacular cuisines.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
18 recipes for seasoned fish sauce condiments (น้ำปลาปรุงรส)
Seasoned fish sauce condiments are easy to prepare. They can serve as a generic, all-purpose seasoning for rice dishes or as a playful and sophisticated accompaniment – a tasty addition for the meal. It is not difficult to see why they are popular; just some slicing and mixing or short simmering are required to prepare them, compared to naam phrik lao (น้ำพริกลาวโบราณ), the old-days staple condiment that required grilling and pounding the ingredients.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Jungle chili relish by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกป่า อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik bpaa)
Despite its name, jungle relish has nothing to do with wild animals or exotic ingredients foraged from a tropical forest. Made up from the most basic ingredients, this relish was described in Favorite Dishes, written by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (อาหารของโปรด ของหม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล) and, in fact, is quite similar to another recipe, gabpi phlaa (กะปิพล่า), found in the book.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Kapi pla, an old-fashioned fermented shrimp paste relish (กะปิพล่า ; gabpi phlaa)
Kapi pla is a hand-mixed fermented shrimp paste relish. It appears in Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s 1908 culinary bible, Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa, in two forms. The first variation is seasoned to a sour-salty profile, while the second displays sweetness as well. Because fermented shrimp paste (kapi) is the key ingredient and the star of the dish, Lady Plean recommended the use of an exceptionally pungent kapi in this recipe.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Salted Indian salmon chili relish (น้ำพริกปลากุเลาเค็ม; naam phrik bplaa goo lao khem)
Instead of kapi, use salted Indian salmon, following the ratios, procedure and seasoning of a basic chili relish. Because salted Indian salmon is extremely salty and has a strong fishy smell, it should first be grilled with fresh fingerroot wrapped in banana leaf to mellow its odor.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Fermented soybean paste chili relish (น้ำพริกเต้าเจี้ยว; naam phrik dtao jiaao)
Fermented soybean paste comes in a range of varieties and qualities that differ in color and consistency. The dark-colored variety, which is not too watery, is suitable for chili relish.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Pickled bean curd chili relish (น้ำพริกเต้าหู้ยี้; naam phrik dtao huu yee)
The best pickled bean curd for this recipe is one that is full bodied, such as the Chinese imported pickled bean curd; the product from Shanghai is especially suitable. Popular Thai brands are produced in the southern province of Songkhla (เต้าหู้ยี้สงขลา). Prepare the relish as you would make a basic relish; do note that fish sauce and salt may be unnecessary, as the bean curd is quite salty.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Salted Chinese black olive chili relish (น้ำพริกหนำเลี้ยบ; naam phrik nam liiap)
Using salted Chinese black olives instead of kapi, follow the ratios, procedure and seasoning of a basic chili relish. That is, start by pounding dried shrimp and salt and when they fluff up, add garlic and salted Chinese black olives. Season using fish sauce, palm sugar and lime juice.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Chili relish of salted duck egg yolks (น้ำพริกไข่เค็ม ; naam phrik khai khem)
This rich velvety relish highlights the creaminess of the salted duck egg yolks. It can be prepared in the same way using crab roe (ไข่ปู; khai bpuu) instead of egg yolks, to make a crab roe chili relish (น้ำพริกไข่ปู; naam phrik khai bpuu). The recipe follows the preparation of a basic chili relish, but only half the amount of fermented shrimp paste (kapi) is used. This reflects and accommodates the saltiness introduced from the salted egg yolks and helps maintain the relish’s bright orangey color.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Chili relish of coriander leaves (น้ำพริกผักชี ; naam phrik phak chee)
This relish is based on the basic chili relish recipe, except that only green chilies are used to complement the lavish herbaceous qualities of the coriander leaves pounded into the relish. Moreover, sweet and sour fruity ingredients are omitted so as not to mask the distinctive herbaceous-waxy taste of coriander.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Fried fermented shrimp paste relish with green apples by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกลูกแอปเปิ้ลผัด อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik luuk aaep bpeern phat)
A century ago, modernity and western ideas were permeating Siamese society across all aspects of life. In addition to the Siamese becoming more familiar with and adopting western dishes, Siamese cooks were exposed to a wide range of imported western ingredients that they deployed to produce old-fashioned Siamese dishes with contemporary accents. This relish is a vibrant example of this tasty and delightful cultural blend.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Kaffir lime chili relish and vegetables blanched in pork lard (น้ำพริกมะกรูดกับผักตีน้ำมัน ; naam phrik magruut gap phak dtee naam man)
This relish is based on the basic chili relish recipe. The main sour element body is tamarind flesh, which is pounded together with dried chilies that contribute heat, aroma and color.
The sour element is further re-layered to a multi sour flavor profile using both lime juice and kaffir lime juice along with diced sour and sour-sweet ingredients that include green mango (มะม่วงเปรี้ยว), madan (มะดัน), salacca, hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก), diced green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น), and thin sliced of kaffir lime peels (ผิวมะกรูด).
The sour element is further re-layered to a multi sour flavor profile using both lime juice and kaffir lime juice along with diced sour and sour-sweet ingredients that include green mango (มะม่วงเปรี้ยว), madan (มะดัน), salacca, hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก), diced green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น), and thin sliced of kaffir lime peels (ผิวมะกรูด).
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Fermented shrimp paste relish with grilled pea eggplants (น้ำพริกมะเขือพวง ; naam phrik ma kheuua phuaang)
This relish is based on the basic chili relish recipe, to which a generous amount of grilled pea eggplant (มะเขือพวงเผา) is added as the last component. Other modifications of the basic relish include adding other sour ingredients such as hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก), madan, and green mandarin orange juice (น้ำส้มเหม็น).
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Fermented shrimp paste relish with bitter eggplant seeds (น้ำพริกมะเขือขื่น หรือ มะเขือเหลือง ; naam phrik makheuua kheuun)
This relish is based on the basic chili relish recipe, adding hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก), salacca (สละ หรือ ระกำ) and a generous amount of seeds from bitter yellow eggplants. The chilies of choice are bird’s eye chilies and yellow chili, whose fruitiness and color accentuate the yellow color of the eggplants.
Recipe
Article
May 2022
Tamarind flower chili relish inspired by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกดอกมะขาม อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik daawk makhaam)
This relish uses tamarind flowers – the flowers are in full bloom during the end of summer and the beginning of the rainy season. Tamarind flowers are mildly sour and give the relish a distinct floral aroma. Although tamarind blossoms are tough to find even in Thai markets, if you – or someone you know – have a tamarind tree in the garden, I strongly recommend trying this dish. In any case, I hope you’ll embrace this recipe as inspiration to create relishes from other sour leaves or flowers.
Basic Cooking Skill
May 2022
How to prepare the basic fermented shrimp paste chili relish (น้ำพริกกะปิมาตรฐาน ; naam phrik gabpi maatdtrathaan)
Eight ingredients consist of the basic chili relish: fermented shrimp paste (kapi) and garlic, dried shrimp and salt, chilies, fish sauce, palm sugar and lime juice. What follows are detailed instructions for making the basic chili relish.
The flavor intensity and consistency of the basic chili relish are adjusted according to the side dishes and vegetables being served. This relish is the prototype of all fermented shrimp paste (kapi) based relishes, which in turn are made by adding other ingredients, enabling an almost endless range of relishes.
The flavor intensity and consistency of the basic chili relish are adjusted according to the side dishes and vegetables being served. This relish is the prototype of all fermented shrimp paste (kapi) based relishes, which in turn are made by adding other ingredients, enabling an almost endless range of relishes.
Masterclass
April 2022
Haaw Mohk and Ngohp (ห่อหมก และ งบ)
Mohk is a cooking technique that involves wrapping food in leaves (haaw) and then placing the leaf-wrapped parcel directly over the burning charcoal, or burying it in the hot ashes (mohk).
The term haaw mohk (ห่อหมก) is used today to describe steamed curried cakes; when grilling is involved, the dishes are referred to as ngohp (งบ).
This Masterclass covers grilled ngohp dishes and coconut-based steamed curried haaw mohk dishes, both ancient and modern, as well as other banana leaf-wrapped regional dishes.
When you complete this Masterclass, you will be proficient in cooking creamy – yet light and airy – steamed, savory curried cakes that reflect the country’s regional variations.
The term haaw mohk (ห่อหมก) is used today to describe steamed curried cakes; when grilling is involved, the dishes are referred to as ngohp (งบ).
This Masterclass covers grilled ngohp dishes and coconut-based steamed curried haaw mohk dishes, both ancient and modern, as well as other banana leaf-wrapped regional dishes.
When you complete this Masterclass, you will be proficient in cooking creamy – yet light and airy – steamed, savory curried cakes that reflect the country’s regional variations.
Recipe
Article
April 2022
Haaw mohk steamed savory curried fish cakes (ห่อหมกปลา ; haaw mohk bplaa)
This recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring clown featherback fish meat (เนื้อปลากราย) and slices of firm snakehead fish (ปลาช่อน). It is a classic recipe that follows the ancient haaw mohk tradition with a contemporary accent.
Recipe
Article
April 2022
c1908 Haaw Mohk steamed savory curried cakes featuring crab meat, chicken, and pork (ห่อหมกทรงเครื่อง แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ พ.ศ. 2451 ; haaw mohk sohng khreuuang)
This festive and rich recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring chicken, crab and pork meats. This recipe was chosen from the various versions available at the time by Lady Plean Passakornrawong, for inclusion in her epic cookbook Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์).
Recipe
Article
April 2022
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with curried rice, shrimp meat grated coconut, and herbs. (ข้าวงบกุ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์ ; khaao ngohp goong)
The khaao ngohp goong (ข้าวงบกุ้ง) of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) is a dish of seasoned curried rice mixed with shrimp meat, shrimp tomalley, grated coconut, and herbs. The rice mix is then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals an intense orange- and russet-brown colored rice cake that is rich, savory and naturally sweet. It is served with a drizzle of thickened coconut cream and herbs.
Recipe
Article
April 2022
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with butter-fried rice with chicken, chicken offal and dried spices, served with a sour-sweet coconut-base vegetable relish (ข้าวงบไก่ อาจาดอังวะ ; khaao ngohp gai aajaat angwa)
The khaao ngohp gai (ข้าวงบไก่) recipe by Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) evokes the flavor and aesthetics of Muslim-style cooking. First, cooked rice, chicken, and chicken offal are fried with butter and perfumed with whole spices. The buttery fried rice is wrapped in banana leaves and then grilled, forming a crispy outer crust of spiced-infused rice grains.
The grilled rice parcels are served alongside a small bowl of a cooling, sour-sweet coconut-vinegar relish of fresh vegetables called ajat angwa (อาจาดอังวะ).
The grilled rice parcels are served alongside a small bowl of a cooling, sour-sweet coconut-vinegar relish of fresh vegetables called ajat angwa (อาจาดอังวะ).
Recipe
Article
April 2022
Khaao bping – grilled banana leaf parcels filled with fermented shrimp paste relish seasoned rice, sweet pork, and crispy garlic (ข้าวปิ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์)
Princess Saisawali Phirom’s khaao bping (ข้าวปิ้ง) is a dish of seasoned rice mixed with sweet pork and crispy fried garlic, then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals a slightly charred rice cake that melts into a pleasantly chewy, smoky, and deliciously savory treat. Created by using basic ingredients of Siamese cuisine, the dish can be served on a bed of banana leaves or on fine porcelain plates, thus touching the hearts of diners from all walks of life.
New Site Section
March 2022
Wrapping food with banana leaves (การห่ออาหารและขนมด้วยใบตอง)
Wrapping food with banana leaves – Including step by step tutorials of common wrapping styles.
Masterclass
March 2022
Khaao man sohm dtam and the first-ever recorded recipe for papaya salad (ข้าวมันส้มตำ)
History’s first-ever recorded recipe for papaya salad is recreated in this Masterclass, along with all the other dishes that were part of the old-fashioned samrub (set meal) called khaao man sohm dtam (ข้าวมันส้มตำ).
Would you be surprised if I told you that the three-flavored papaya salad is not an authentic Northeastern cuisine (Issan) dish but, rather, one that originated in the Central Plains of the Kingdom?
Furthermore, this dish was not eaten with sticky rice, but served as part of a full set meal called khaao man sohm dtam (ข้าวมันส้มตำ). The set included a spicy curry with coconut-enriched rice, a papaya salad, tamarind chili relish, crispy-sweet pork or beef threads, salted fish fried in egg batter, and other accompaniments.
This Masterclass describes the evolution of the dish and revives the first-ever documented recipe for khaao man sohm dtam, dated 1935, to its finest details, restoring its former glory.
Would you be surprised if I told you that the three-flavored papaya salad is not an authentic Northeastern cuisine (Issan) dish but, rather, one that originated in the Central Plains of the Kingdom?
Furthermore, this dish was not eaten with sticky rice, but served as part of a full set meal called khaao man sohm dtam (ข้าวมันส้มตำ). The set included a spicy curry with coconut-enriched rice, a papaya salad, tamarind chili relish, crispy-sweet pork or beef threads, salted fish fried in egg batter, and other accompaniments.
This Masterclass describes the evolution of the dish and revives the first-ever documented recipe for khaao man sohm dtam, dated 1935, to its finest details, restoring its former glory.
Recipe
Article
March 2022
c1941 Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies (แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณอย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng phet baaep bo:h raan)
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
Recipe
Article
March 2022
Crispy sweet pork or beef threads (หมูเค็มผัดฝอย ; muu khem phat faawy)
This is a modern version of a classic sweet meat threads condiment that often complements chili relishes or is served as a side dish in classic Siamese samrub meals.
Recipe
Article
March 2022
Tamarind flesh chili relish (น้ำพริกส้มมะขามเปียก; naam phrik sohm ma khaam bpiiak)
This is a simple relish built on top of a standard fermented shrimp paste (kapi) chili relish, with simple additions for which all its additional ingredients can be obtained from around the home – as was common in Siam for so many centuries.
Masterclass
March 2022
c1935 Char-grilled banana blossom stuffed and baked with tamarind relish fried rice (ข้าวปลี ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; khaao bplee)
Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid’s delicious khaao bplee is a dish of stuffed banana blossom with sour, salty, sweet, and fragrant jasmine fried rice. The rice is fried with tamarind relish, semi-salted fish, amaranth leaves, eggplants and carrots; it is then stuffed into a smoky charred-grilled banana blossom, and baked.
This dish uses certain ingredients, such as milk and spinach, that are not usually associated with Siamese cuisine. Why did Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid use these ingredients, and how does this dish fit the Siamese taste awareness and the aristocracy’s culinary view regarding their own diet?
Follow this masterclass to learn more!
This dish uses certain ingredients, such as milk and spinach, that are not usually associated with Siamese cuisine. Why did Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid use these ingredients, and how does this dish fit the Siamese taste awareness and the aristocracy’s culinary view regarding their own diet?
Follow this masterclass to learn more!
Masterclass
March 2022
Gaawy goong suay chili relish (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย)
Gaawy goong suay is a rich, mildly spicy, sour-salty, and slightly sweet chili relish enriched with peanuts and charged with the flavor and metaphysical properties of the shrimp. It is eaten with acid-cured shrimp meat flakes and egg threads; tossed with cooked pork skin, firm pork fat, aromatics and herbs; and served alongside vegetables.
This dish showcases the early Siamese cooking style rooted in Ayutthaya, and the flavors once celebrated only within the boundaries of the palace walls. At one time this dish was a favorite among the aristocracy – so beloved that King Rama II dedicated an entire verse to it in his famous Boat Poem. However, in subsequent years, this chili relish fell out of vogue and was almost forgotten.
In this Masterclass, we trace the history of the dish from its first appearance in the early 18th century and examine six recipes spanning sixty years of culinary literature, reaching from 1908 until it fell out of fashion in the late 1960s. This immersive culinary journey will culminate with Thaifoodmaster’s revival version of the dish – a version inspired by and based on suggestions and techniques gleaned from those who documented the dish over the years.
This dish showcases the early Siamese cooking style rooted in Ayutthaya, and the flavors once celebrated only within the boundaries of the palace walls. At one time this dish was a favorite among the aristocracy – so beloved that King Rama II dedicated an entire verse to it in his famous Boat Poem. However, in subsequent years, this chili relish fell out of vogue and was almost forgotten.
In this Masterclass, we trace the history of the dish from its first appearance in the early 18th century and examine six recipes spanning sixty years of culinary literature, reaching from 1908 until it fell out of fashion in the late 1960s. This immersive culinary journey will culminate with Thaifoodmaster’s revival version of the dish – a version inspired by and based on suggestions and techniques gleaned from those who documented the dish over the years.
Masterclass
February 2022
bplaa naaem (ปลาแนม) – A Siamese aristocratic small plate snack
Bplaa naaem (ปลาแนม) is an aristocratic small plate of grilled fish, roasted rice and roasted grated coconut with bitter orange zest and a three sours seasoning sauce – an evocative dish that brings to life the vivid flavors and atmosphere of a classic snack break for the Siamese aristocracy. It’s a meticulously prepared dish that deploys a variety of ingredients. The best way to describe bplaa naaem is with a culinary cliché: it melts in your mouth.
In Siam, cold dishes of various acid cured or cooked meats, especially pork (หมูแนม ; muu naaem), fish (ปลาแนม ; bplaa naaem) and shrimp (กุ้งแนม ; goong naaem) were once exceedingly popular.
In Siam, cold dishes of various acid cured or cooked meats, especially pork (หมูแนม ; muu naaem), fish (ปลาแนม ; bplaa naaem) and shrimp (กุ้งแนม ; goong naaem) were once exceedingly popular.
Masterclass
February 2022
c1941 Magical beef curry (แกงเนื้อวิเศษ พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng neuua wisaeht)
Magical floral and earthy coconut-based beef curry with saffron and young chilies reminiscent of glorious sunsets in the Persian salt desert.
Masterclass
February 2022
The art of Siamese old-school menu design สํารับอาหารไทย
This masterclass explores the art of Siamese old-school menu design, as reflected in pre-WWII aristocratic Siamese manuscripts. It includes detailed reference materials with 66 set menus ideas for everyday or special occasion meals, as well as a seasonal food calendar providing a year-round list of suggested ingredients based on their availability and optimal quality.
Whether you are a beginner or an experienced chef, this masterclass will provide you with eye-opening invaluable reference material, a detailed Samrub design mind-map, and sixty-six practical set menu examples that you can immediately incorporate into your cooking.
Whether you are a beginner or an experienced chef, this masterclass will provide you with eye-opening invaluable reference material, a detailed Samrub design mind-map, and sixty-six practical set menu examples that you can immediately incorporate into your cooking.
Masterclass
January 2022
The Laap Binder
Thaifoodmaster’s laap masterclass covers 20 types of laap dishes, 10 detailed recipes, 15 dried spices and introduces 35 medicinal herbs.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Northern Thai-style roasted pork laap (ลาบหมูคั่ว ; laap muu khuaa)
This laap dish offers a slightly different way to use the phrik laap seasoning mix. It is added to an aromatic paste made from roasted chilies, galangal, roasted shallots, and roasted garlic. The paste is enriched with coriander seeds, makwen and laap spices mix, which introduces the desired smoke and umami intensifying elements to the dish.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Northern Thai-style laap of chicken (ลาบไก่เมือง ; laap gai muang)
In the village environment, free-range chicken laap is made from a whole bird butchered and cooked on the spot. All the parts of the chicken are used, with nothing wasted or discarded. First, the meat is minced. Gradually, the still-warm chicken blood is added until the meat is saturated and becomes gooey and moist.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Northern Thai-style fish laap with crispy aromatics (ลาบหมี่ปลา; laap mee plaa)
Laap mee is a laap that uses a generous amount of crispy ingredients. Called khreuuang mee (เครื่องหมี่), these crispy elements are often used in Northern laap dishes as toppings. In the “laap mee” style, they are used lavishly and mixed with the minced meat.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Laap of duck (ลาบเป็ด ; laap bpet)
Duck laap, like other laap dishes, uses the whole duck, head to tail – including its meat, skin, internal organs, and bones. The recipe I provide below is modified for home-style cooking and uses duck parts; in the village environment, the duck is butchered and the bird is allowed to bleed completely, the blood is collected, and the bird is then cleaned and plucked.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Lanna-style grilled catfish laap (ลาบปลาดุก พื้นบ้านล้านนา ; laap bplaa dook lanna)
A Tai Lue style grilled catfish laap which is somewhat more complicated than the Issan version of grilled catfish laap, but it responds to the same fundamental problem of using catfish – improving its inherently muddy-tasting meat – with similar yet more elaborate techniques.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Issan-style grilled catfish laap (ลาบปลาดุกย่าง ; laap bplaa dook yaang)
Popular recipe for Issan-style grilled catfish laap, the meat is deodorized by deploying a roasted aromatic paste.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap with bile, cow’s gastric juice, and fresh blood.
(Faux blood-bile sauce recipe is included 😀)
Laap connoisseurs consider the meat of a buffalo superior to that of a cow. Buffalo meat is leaner, less gamey, and often described as sweet. If you can’t get buffalo meat then, by all means, use beef as a substitute.
(Faux blood-bile sauce recipe is included 😀)
Laap connoisseurs consider the meat of a buffalo superior to that of a cow. Buffalo meat is leaner, less gamey, and often described as sweet. If you can’t get buffalo meat then, by all means, use beef as a substitute.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Gooey raw shrimp laap (ลาบเหนียวกุ้ง ; laap niaao goong)
This shrimp laap is often served raw but it can be further cooked by roasting or cooking with some liquids, as well as grilling the fish mixture in a banana leaf wrap.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Raw wet fish laap with grilled eggplant (ลาบปลาน้ำนัว ; laap bplaa naam nuaa)
In rural Issan, temples are used as schools, with senior monks providing basic spiritual and secular education to youths. Each dawn, the teenage novice monks, attired in orange robes, walk the village streets with their alms bowls to collect food. Their mothers wake up early, often before sunrise, to prepare food for the monks; a meritorious ritual that weaves together spiritual and maternal care.
Recipe
Article
January 2022
Saa Bpia – Akha-style grilled pork laap in banana leaves (ส่าเปี๊ยะ ลาบอย่างชาวอาข่า)
Akha-style pork laap is made by mincing a slice of fatty pork cut with liver or fresh pork blood and a generous amount of herbs, chilies, the roots of Hooker chives, and the soft inner bark of trees such as the hog plum (เปลือกมะกอก) or Indian gooseberry (เปลือกมะขามป้อม). It is then seasoned salty with salt, wrapped in banana leaves, and grilled over charcoal until cooked.
Basic Kitchen Skills
January 2022
How to prepare makwen-infused fish sauce (มะแขว่นดองน้ำปลา)
A fish sauce infused with palate-numbing makwen is great for seasoning those dishes that draw their seasoning from phrik laap.
Basic Kitchen Skills
January 2022
Northern Thai style laap seasoning mix (น้ำพริกลาบ ; naam phrik laap)
Laap seasoning mix is used as the primary seasoning in various dishes including laap, salads, curries, dipping sauces, or grilled foods.
Basic Kitchen Skills
January 2022
How to prepare dried fish scales (เกล็ดปลาแห้ง ; glet bplaa haaeng)
Dried fish scales can be used fried as a crunchy element for fish laap dishes or as a new crispy ingredient in your creative cooking.
Basic Kitchen Skills
January 2022
Cooking with blood – How to prepare fresh blood วิธีเตรียมเลือดสดสำหรับการทำอาหาร
Blood is a rich source of nutrients and is consumed throughout the world. In Thai cuisine, fresh blood is widely used. While the general assumption is that cooking with blood is associated with regional and rustic cuisine, in fact, animal blood was part of the aristocracy’s diet as well, as evident from Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s recipe for blood sausage sai leuuat (ไส้เลือด) which appeared in her 1908 cookbook “Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์)”.
Live Lecture
January 2022
Live Lecture: Decoding Siamese culinary Codes.
1h 48m 32s
A fair amount of caution should be taken when navigating the historical paths of iconic Thai dishes. These dishes are almost always associated with the perception of one’s home and family; they bring up memories of our mothers’ and grandmothers’ kitchens, and they generate strong emotions about what is genuine and what is authentic.
In this talk, Hanuman describes his ongoing work of rehabilitating ancient recipes and forgotten flavors to achieve a contemporary sense of the primal taste and emotions they used to evoke.
Hanuman shares his holistic, creative, and analytical approach to cooking and will demonstrate how embracing ancient wisdom, as well as a strong respect for history, serves as a tool to explore the future of Thai cuisine.
A fair amount of caution should be taken when navigating the historical paths of iconic Thai dishes. These dishes are almost always associated with the perception of one’s home and family; they bring up memories of our mothers’ and grandmothers’ kitchens, and they generate strong emotions about what is genuine and what is authentic.
In this talk, Hanuman describes his ongoing work of rehabilitating ancient recipes and forgotten flavors to achieve a contemporary sense of the primal taste and emotions they used to evoke.
Hanuman shares his holistic, creative, and analytical approach to cooking and will demonstrate how embracing ancient wisdom, as well as a strong respect for history, serves as a tool to explore the future of Thai cuisine.
Recipe
Basic Kitchen Skills
January 2022
How to prepare seasoned fermented fish sauce (น้ำปลาร้าปรุงรส ; naam pla rapruung roht)
This process involves taking a raw fermented fish product – one fermented using salt, and rice – to produce an all-purpose seasoning sauce with a mellower smell and re-layered flavor base elements.
Recipe
Basic Kitchen Skills
January 2022
How to grill a catfish (วิธีย่างปลาดุก)
Catfish are not too fussy about the waters in which they swim. They can even flourish in stagnant waters and flooded rice fields. Thus, they have a slimy, scaleless skin and oily meat with a muddy after taste. They are most suitable for grilling, deep-frying or in curries.
Basic Kitchen Skills
January 2022
How to prepare ground roasted rice (ข้าวคั่ว ; khaao khuaa)
Khao kua is ground (toasted) roasted rice. It is mainly associated with either Northeastern cuisine (Issan) as a textural element added to laap or nam dtohk (น้ำตก) dishes; however, khao kua is also a common ingredient in Northern Thai-style dishes and is even used in aristocratic Central Thai cooking. As well, it can be used as a thickening agent or the main ingredient rather than as an accent.
Masterclass
January 2022
35 Medicinal plants to serve with laap, and why! – phak gap laap (ผักกับลาบ)
Phak gap laap (ผักกับลาบ) is a general term used to describe the herbs, vegetables and young leaves – usually between twenty and forty – that are served with the laap. Many of these can be found near the home or in the fields and forests.
In addition to the season and geographical region, the selection of phak gap laap was shaped by the flavor, aroma and, more important, the medicinal properties of the greens and vegetables. Phak gap laap is assembled from three main groups – aromatic herbs, sour leaves, and bitter herbs, each with its own role in the dish. The aromatics add a pleasant fragrance to counter the gamey taste of raw meat and blood, while the sours complement the taste of laap, and aid in the digestion of uncooked meat. The bitter herbs are believed to cure a wide range of ailments.
Thus, we need to gain a little more insight into Thai traditional medicine before selecting the herbs and leaves to serve with the laap, which is based on ancient wisdom and cooking techniques that have been passed down through generations.
In addition to the season and geographical region, the selection of phak gap laap was shaped by the flavor, aroma and, more important, the medicinal properties of the greens and vegetables. Phak gap laap is assembled from three main groups – aromatic herbs, sour leaves, and bitter herbs, each with its own role in the dish. The aromatics add a pleasant fragrance to counter the gamey taste of raw meat and blood, while the sours complement the taste of laap, and aid in the digestion of uncooked meat. The bitter herbs are believed to cure a wide range of ailments.
Thus, we need to gain a little more insight into Thai traditional medicine before selecting the herbs and leaves to serve with the laap, which is based on ancient wisdom and cooking techniques that have been passed down through generations.
Recipe
Article
December 2021
c1933 Sour bilimbi fruit and crispy candied peanut salad with pork, shrimp and pork fat (ยำตะลิงปลิง ; yam dtaling bpling)
A peanut bar might be considered an unlikely ingredient for an old-fashioned Siamese-style salad. Yet, peanut bars were familiar to the Siamese as early as the Ayutthaya period and were part of a broader set of Teochew Chinese sweets called, in Thai, “khanohm janap (ขนมจันอับ)”.
Recipe
Article
December 2021
Pomelo salad with salted shrimp and a lemongrass-infused coconut cream dressing (ยำส้มโอกุ้งเค็ม ; yam sohm o:h goong khem)
In this salad, which has almost twenty ingredients, each ingredient is prepared, cut, and gauged precisely: this precision is designed to enhance, complement or contrast the taste, texture and look of the salad – only then can these ingredients, together, present a fully rounded perception of a unified, visually pleasing and delicious dish.
Recipe
Article
December 2021
c1890 Fresh roselle salad with acid-cured shrimp (ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรณ์วงศ์ ร.ศ.๑๐๘ ; yam phohn gra jiiap;)
This is a wonderful salad that had fallen into obscurity. But, as one of Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s first-ever recipes published in the 1890 edition of the “Bpradtithin Bat Laae Joht Maai Haeht (ประติทินบัตร แล จดหมายเหตุ)” journal, it deserves a resurrection.
Recipe
Article
December 2021
Salad of smoked grilled duck breast with roasted shallots and bitter yellow eggplants (พล่าอกเป็ดรมควันกับมะเขือเหลืองและหอมเผา ; phlaa ohk bpet rohm khwan gap ma kheuua leuuang lae haawm phao)
A pla (พล่า) style salad of smoked grilled duck with roasted caramelized shallots, bitter yellow eggplants, and aromatics. The duck is smoke-grilled to medium-well doneness. Red, gamey and fatty, it is still pink inside and, along with the caramelized shallots, provides the salad with umami, fat, and distinctive smoky overtones.
New Online Tool
December 2021
Traditional Thai weight unit calculator – มาตราชั่งน้ำหนักโบราณของไทย
Our weight conversion calculator tool automatically converts and calculates all the weight measurements of the different units from the Traditional Thai anthropic weight system to metric and imperial units.
Those of you who peruse the old Siamese manuscripts will find it an indispensable tool.
Those of you who peruse the old Siamese manuscripts will find it an indispensable tool.
Basic Kitchen Skills
December 2021
How to make crispy fried garlic (วิธีทำกระเทียมเจียว ; haawm jiaao)
Step-by-step tutorial: How to make crispy fried garlic (วิธีทำกระเทียมเจียว ; haawm jiaao)
Basic Kitchen Skills
December 2021
How to make crispy fried shallots (วิธีทำหอมแดงเจียว ; haawm jiaao)
Step-by-step tutorial: How to make crispy fried shallots (วิธีทำหอมแดงเจียว ; haawm jiaao)
Basic Kitchen Skills
December 2021
How to prepare pork skin for salads (วิธีเตรียมหนังหมูสำหรับเมนูยำต่างๆ)
Step-by-step tutorial: How to prepare pork skin for salads (วิธีเตรียมหนังหมูสำหรับเมนูยำต่างๆ)
Basic Kitchen Skills
December 2021
How to prepare roasted coconut (วิธีทำมะพร้าวคั่ว ; maphraao khuaa)
Step-by-step tutorial: How to prepare roasted coconut (วิธีทำมะพร้าวคั่ว ; maphraao khuaa)
Basic Kitchen Skills
December 2021
How to prepare firm pork fat for salads (วิธีเตรียมมันหมูแข็งสำหรับเมนูยำต่างๆ)
Step-by-step tutorial: How to prepare firm pork fat for salads (วิธีเตรียมมันหมูแข็งสำหรับเมนูยำต่างๆ)
Recipe
Article
December 2021
c1889 Faux Rhino Skin Salad (ยำโขนงเนื้อเทียม หรือ ยำหนังหมู ; yam kho:h nohng neuua thiiam reuu yam nang muu)
This old-fashioned Siamese pork skin salad is adapted from an 1889 rhino skin salad recipe. It features thin glossy slices of cooked pork skin, simmered in rich coconut cream, and mixed with dried shrimp, roasted coconut, sour fruits; it is seasoned with chili jam-based dressing.
Masterclass
December 2021
Thai Salads, The Professional Chef’s Guide เรื่องยำๆ
In this inclusive masterclass, we cover everything you need to know about preparing Siamese salads creatively and authentically.
Modern-day Thai salads are often identified with a flamboyant appearance, and loud and often over-sweetened seasoning. In contrast, old-fashioned Siamese salads were gentle, soft and flavorful. In this immersive and uniquely designed masterclass, we decipher the intricacies of old-fashioned Siamese salads’ culinary codes, using Thaifoodmaster’s revolutionary visual approach to layering flavors.
Modern-day Thai salads are often identified with a flamboyant appearance, and loud and often over-sweetened seasoning. In contrast, old-fashioned Siamese salads were gentle, soft and flavorful. In this immersive and uniquely designed masterclass, we decipher the intricacies of old-fashioned Siamese salads’ culinary codes, using Thaifoodmaster’s revolutionary visual approach to layering flavors.
Recipe
Article
December 2021
Ancient roasted chili jam (naam phrik phao bo:h raan ; น้ำพริกเผาโบราณ)
In today’s Thai food jargon, roasted chili paste is a mash-up of what were once two very distinct items: roasted chili paste (nam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา) and fried chili paste (nam phrik phat; น้ำพริกผัด). The former, and the older of the two, is produced by roasting all the ingredients; the latter by frying each ingredient individually.
Recipe
Article
December 2021
Ancient ‘naam phrik laao’ chili relish (ripe garlic chili relish) (น้ำพริกลาวโบราณ)
In Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s book “Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์)”, naam phrik laao chili relish was employed in various recipes. Rarely used anymore this relish was used as a seasoning agent for salads or as a dipping sauce for dishes such as grilled prawns and young neem tree leaves and flower buds (กุ้งเผาสะเดาลวก), and chicken or duck cooked with galangal in coconut cream (dtohm khaa; ต้มข่าเป็ด หรือ ไก่).
Recipe
December 2021
Three flavors pickled garlic (or elephant garlic) (กระเทียมหรือกระเทียมโทนดองสามรส ; gra thiiam daawng saam roht)
Pickled garlic brine is a common and popular souring agent deployed as a practical substitute for, or in addition to, lime juice. Unlike citrus fruits, which are seasonal, pickled garlic was a staple in the Siamese kitchen pantry. It has a rounded sour-sweet mature profile with a slight saltiness.
Recipe
Article
December 2021
All-Purpose Sour, Sweet and Salty Chili Jam (Modern Version) (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผาสมัยใหม่)
Thai Chili Jam – This is a chili jam similar to what is commonly sold under the name of roasted chili paste (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา). It is widely used as a condiment in salad dressings, soups, and seasoning for stir-fried dishes. I like to have control over my pantry ingredients, so I always use homemade naam phrik phao. Furthermore, since it is a basic ingredient used in so many dishes, anything less than the best will drastically impair the quality of your dishes.
Masterclass
November 2021
c1935 “Dry Curry” with beef over coconut infused jasmine rice (แกงแห้ง ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; gaaeng haaeng)
Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid’s dry beef curry (แกงแห้ง), a meticulously prepared dish scented with sand ginger and presented with khaao bpradap (ข้าวประดับ) – a platter of mixed spice-infused rich and fatty rice. The rice is tinted yellow from curry powder. The rice is cooked with coconut cream and chicken stock as well as an array of dried spices bundled in cheesecloth, such as cinnamon, Siam cardamom, bay leaves, nutmeg, mace, and clove.
New Feature
November 2021
Introducing Recipe Collections – Check out the new “Recipe Collections” set of features available from your Kitchen Studio, that allows you to search and save recipes in custom collections and then generate a shopping list for them. Perfect for meal planning and much more!
Masterclass
November 2021
c1929 Green Curry of the Sultan (แกงเขียวหวานสุลต่าน อ่ยาง หะยี ฮิบรอเฮม และ จีบ บุนนาค พ.ศ. 2472 ; gaaeng khiaao waan soola dtaan)
Inspired by recipes from Hayee Ibrahim (c1929) and Jeeb Bunnag (c1933) – A green curry of stewed beef, okra, deep-fried potatoes, egg yolks, almonds, and raisins baked-smoked with butter and fennel seeds over charcoals…This rare and fascinating recipe for green curry appeared just three years after the first-ever written recipe for green curry appeared in Siamese culinary manuscripts in 1926, suggesting that green curries are Muslim in origin.
New Feature
November 2021
The Spice Vault
Here you will find recipes for popular spice mixes that you can make yourself! Homemade spice blends not only taste better and cost less, but you’ll also be able to create unique spice blends based on your personal preferences. As a bonus, you’ll use spices with no preservatives or artificial colors!
Masterclass
November 2021
Thai Curries: The Professional Chef’s Guide – แกงไทย
In this unparalleled masterclass, we cover everything you need to know about cooking Thai curries creatively and authentically.
This no-nonsense, comprehensive, and uncensored companion masterclass on Thai curries will transform the way you perceive and execute Thai curries, and you will experience a dramatic improvement in your skills upon completing the class.
This masterclass covers Thai curries’ origins, classifications, regional varieties, curry paste composition, ingredients, spices, and color adjustments, along with essential and practical cooking techniques, and the superb flavor layering practices that master chefs use in crafting Thai curries.
This no-nonsense, comprehensive, and uncensored companion masterclass on Thai curries will transform the way you perceive and execute Thai curries, and you will experience a dramatic improvement in your skills upon completing the class.
This masterclass covers Thai curries’ origins, classifications, regional varieties, curry paste composition, ingredients, spices, and color adjustments, along with essential and practical cooking techniques, and the superb flavor layering practices that master chefs use in crafting Thai curries.
Masterclass
October 2021
c1901 Siamese seasoned mix rice Javanese style (ข้าวนาซิประจิต หรือ ข้าวประดับ ; khaao naasi prajit or khaao bpradap)
Khaao Naasi Prajit is a Siamese adaptation of Javanese-style seasoned rice dishes. The dish is seasoned with chili relish and roasted coconut and served with various meats and vegetables as a side dish. In this masterclass, we will discuss its origins, study its appearance in the Siamese Culinary literature, and finally prepare it using Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul’s recipe.
Masterclass
October 2021
c1939 Siamese-Javanese style coconut-based chicken and golden raisins curry (แกงแขกยะวา ; gaaeng khaaek yawaa)
Old Bangkok was home to four distinct groups of Indonesian and Javanese Muslims, referred to interchangeably by the Siamese as khaaek yawaa. Gaaeng khaaek yawaa is a Siamese-Javanese chicken, peanut, and golden raisin curry that originated in the Yawaa market area, where the descendants of the Javanese Royal gardeners resided. It is a rich and joyful curry with a sour-sweet-salty flavor profile and fresh citrus notes.
Masterclass
October 2021
Satay Lue – Grilled beef satay with thick Muslim style peanut sauce (สะเต๊ะลือ กับ น้ำจิ้มอย่างแขก ; sadteh leuu kap naam jim yaang khaaek)
Satay Lue, (grilled beef satay skewers) is not like your average street food Satay. This recipe is a slightly modified version of the Balinese recipe from the kitchen of Princess Sai Ladawan which better suits the Siamese palate. In the Palace, there was so much chatter about the tastiness of this dish that it was nicknamed “satay lue (สะเต๊ะลือ)”, which literally translates into “the gossip satay”.
Get Access – Join Thaifoodmaster Today
Practical and kitchen-tested recipes with a mix of theory, history, psychology, and Siamese culture tidbits.
You will get everything you need to:
It is truly brilliant with a revolutionary approach introducing aspects and concepts never broached by cookbooks.
Ian Westcott
Sourcing Wines for Discerning Private Clients
