18th Century Metropolitan Chili Relish: A Recipe with Over 20 Ingredients
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.
However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
In her book Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP), Lady Plean Passakornrawong notes that the relish can be enjoyed with fresh vegetables or mixed with rice. She also mentions that the recipe for Metropolitan Chili Relish comes from the house of Phraya Bhuthorn Raphai (เจ้าพระยาภูธราภัย) (นุช บุณยรัตพันธุ์), a nobleman who lived from 1808 to1875, and served in various capacities under King Rama III and King Rama IV. Phraya Bhuthorn Raphai was initially a police officer; he later became a general who led successful campaigns against the Khmer and also led the Siamese troops in the Burmese-Siamese Chiang Tung War of 1849-1855 (สงครามเชียงตุง).
As well, Phraya Bhuthorn Raphai was involved in religious activities, including the renovation of Wat Kreu Walai Worawihan (วัดเครือวัลย์วรวิหาร), a temple on Arun Amarin Rd.
Phraya Bhuthorn Raphai’s roles were not just military but extended to civil governance. He was part of a cadre of Siamese leaders, collectively known as “Hua Mai (หัวใหม่)”, who were united by age and ideology. The group included King Pinklao (พระบาทสมเด็จพระปิ่นเกล้าฯ), Somdet Chao Phraya Borom Maha Sri Suriyawongse (สมเด็จเจ้าพระยาบรมมหาศรีสุริยวงศ์) the Regent of Siam and Kromluang Wongsathiratsanit (พระบรมวงศ์เธอพระองค์เจ้านวม), a physician and scholar.
“Hua Mai” members took it upon themselves to study the natural sciences of the various colonial Western powers looming over Siam and were determined to modernize their homeland as a strategic move to protect it, not just from neighboring countries like Burma and Annam, but also from the encroaching Western players. Phraya Bhuthorn Raphai passed away at the age of 67 during a fever outbreak and his cremation was a royal affair.
In a different culinary take, Mom Rajawongse Kukrit Pramoj (ม.ร.ว.คึกฤทธิ์ ปราโมช), a former prime minister of Thailand and a renowned scholar, presents a slightly different version of Lady Plean’s Metropolitan Chili Relish. Although Mom Rajawongse Kukrit Pramoj does not provide any further details on the dish’s origins, he is an engaging writer who charms the reader even as he fortifies the relish with smoke-dried fish (ปลาย่างรมควัน), grilled shrimp and crispy pork lard cracklings. These three elements give the relish a body of flavor and texture; they would also have dominated the color of the chili relish.
Mom Rajawongse Kukrit Pramoj’s version of the dish should not be overlooked: He was a member of the esteemed Pramoj royal family, known for their significant contribution to Thai culinary traditions and service to the royal kitchens of Krom Khun Worachak Tharanuphap (กรมขุนวรจักรธรานุภาพ), particularly during the reign of King Rama V.
The title “Krom Khun (กรมขุน)” is a noble designation, typically bestowed upon individuals of high rank and denoting a role in service to the royal family or the state. It is thus likely that the Pramoj family would be familiar with the traditional version of this relish, savored during these days of culinary refinement.
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Metropolitan Chili Relish, a complex blend of over 20 ingredients, including seasonal picks. Originating from the 1800s, this relish offers a unique mix of citrus-infused, fruity, and salty flavors, elevated by smoke-dried fish and pork fat crackling. Perfect for those seeking a culinary adventure.
young tamarind pods (มะขามอ่อน)The peel is scraped and then sliced into very small cubes
fresh red and green long chilies (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง และ เขียว)roasted, seed removed and sliced thinly
Instructions
An overview of the ingredients.
Step 1: Pound separately, and then pound together.
Smoke-dried fish (all varieties) (ปลาย่างรมควัน), grilled: Collect the meat only, discarding the fish abdomen and bones. Pound the grilled smoke-dried fish meat into powder. Set aside.
Shrimp (กุ้ง), grilled and shredded: Peel and devein the grilled shrimp, then shred them into small pieces. Set aside.
Crispy pork fat cracklings (กากหมู): Cut firm pork fat into small equal-size cubes; place them in a pan with enough water to cover, and then cook slowly until all the water evaporates, and the fragrant lard starts frying and the fat takes on a light golden color. Strain and set aside.
Dried Thai bird’s eye chilies (phrik kee noo) (พริกขี้หนูแห้ง), roasted with 1/4 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล): Roast the dried Thai bird’s eye chilies until they become fragrant and slightly charred. Pound them together with the sea salt into a fine powder. Set aside.
Step 2: Add to the mixture and pound to a fine paste.
Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย), roasted: Roast the Thai garlic until it is soft and slightly browned. Set aside.
Fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ), grilled: Grill the fermented shrimp paste in banana leaves. Set aside.
Dried shrimp: Wash, dry roast, and then pound the dried shrimp into a fine powder. Set aside.
Step 3: Add the following ingredients and bruise them lightly.
Fresh red long chilies (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง): Slice them into small rounds.
Step 4: Season to a sour-sweet-salty flavor profile.
Add the palm sugar and mix it with the relish: Taste, and make sure that the flavor profile is sweet-salty to your liking. Adjust the final sweetness and saltiness intensities; at this stage it should taste sweet first, with a clear salty taste to follow.
Add the citrus juices: You will need lime juice and kaffir lime juice (น้ำมะกรูด) in roughly the same volume as that of the kapi; and then the same volume again in green mandarin orange juice (น้ำส้มเหม็น).
At this stage, it should taste sour, sweet and salty.
Step 5: Mix in the following ingredients.
Green mandarin orange fruit (ส้มเหม็น): unpeeled, sliced into very small cubes.
Bitter orange fruit (som.saa) (ส้มซ่า): unpeeled, sliced into very small cubes.
Green mango (มะม่วงเปรี้ยว): sliced into very small cubes.
Hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก): sliced thinly and then halved.
Salacca (สละ หรือ ระกำ): peeled, with the membrane removed, and sliced thinly.
Young tamarind pods (มะขามอ่อน): the brownish peel is scraped and the tamarind is sliced into very small cubes.
Step 6: Mix in the grilled chilies
Fresh red long chilies (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง และ เขียว) roasted: Roast the fresh red and green long chilies until they are charred on the outside. Once roasted, allow them to cool.
Peel the charred skin off the chilies and scrape away all the seeds. Slice the roasted chilies into elongated 45-degree thin slices.
Keyword chili relish, naam phrik, nam prik (น้ำพริก)
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Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Studded with small green peppercorns that burst with a mild peppery pungency, this relish is not as spicy as one might expect from a Thai chili relish – nor does the sour taste serve as a noticeable flavor pillar. Instead, a warmer and softer peppery bite, coupled with the aroma of young pepper, delivers a complex kick. The peppercorns, together with the flavorful yellow chilies, wrap the pork’s natural umami and fatty characters and enhance its natural sweetness; this sweetness, despite being placed far in the back and only appearing at the end of each bite, is nicely layered by the use of shrimp meat and palm sugar.
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
Stocked with a contemporary brew of umami-rich ingredients, this ancient, bright and slightly sour coconut-based shrimp and tomato curry demonstrates how simple – yet clever – flavor-layering techniques can spotlight the shrimp and the spectacular savory tomatoes over the curry background.
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Access to Thaifoodmaster’s constantly growing library of prime professional classes, articles, recipes and videos on Siamese culinary topics, available nowhere else in English.
Gain access to NEW MONTHLY masterclasses as they become available.
1-1 support from Hanuman to help you achieve your professional Thai culinary goals
The opportunity to join a monthly live two-hour videoconference where I can answer your questions.
one year access for the price of 3 days in-person training.
You will get everything you need to:
When you design or build a new menu for an event or restaurant or even prepare for dinner with friends.
Finally !
Master your Thai cooking skills and expand your repertoire.