The type of chilies – fresh, dried or rehydrated – and how they are processed into the curry paste have a significant influence on the dish’s flavor, color, aroma and heat profile. Fresh chilies inject an immediate, sharp spike of heat that rushes in with a piercing, punctuating intensity, a grassy aroma and fruity liveliness. Dried chilies, on the other hand, impart a subtle warmth alongside rich, earthy notes that gradually build up into a steady, lingering burn. The choice of the chili variety will also shape the curry’s flavor. Through an informed selection and processing of chilies, cooks can navigate between mild and spicy, fruity and earthy, and bright and mellow flavors, creating a complex and nuanced heart for their curries.
The Layered Virtuosity of Dried and Fresh Chilies
Dried Chilies: Subtle, Lingering Warmth and Earthy Depth
Chilies are dried not only to extend their shelf life, but to create a richer, more nuanced and mature flavor profile that fresh chilies cannot match, with aromas that evoke warm earthiness and notes of dried fruits such as raisins and prunes.
The drying process intensifies the natural sugars in the chilies and concentrates the capsaicinoids, the compounds responsible for heat. In addition, enzymatic reactions break down complex molecules into simpler, more flavorful ones; to a lesser extent, even the Maillard reaction, known for imparting a savory richness to foods, plays a role during the drying process, adding to the chilies’ taste nuances.
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Drying the chilies also reduces their natural green-grassy and fruity, floral aromas as they lose volatile compounds such as (Z)-3-hexenal and hexanal during the drying process. These compounds give fresh chilies their characteristic scents, their diminishment during drying leads to a less vibrant flavor in the dried product. Finally, oxidation can produce aldehydes and ketones, resulting in faint metallic notes.
When dried chilies are rehydrated, they experience a renaissance of flavor and aroma. Moisture revives the concentrated sugars and aromatics, releasing a round, fuller aroma with a bright fruitiness that was once locked within the dried flesh. The heat, too, is transformed, now presenting as a smooth, rich warmth, comforting rather than sharp, and spread evenly across the palate, offering a robust yet nuanced spiciness that allows for gradual, subtle flavors to emerge through the heat.
Upon rehydration, water molecules interact with the dehydrated chili tissue, causing it to swell and soften. This physical change also has chemical implications. Water acts as a solvent, helping to release flavor and aroma compounds that were concentrated and trapped within the dried chili. Sugars that had crystallized can dissolve again, contributing to the perceived sweetness and fullness of the flavor.
Additionally, the rehydration process permits the reactivation of certain enzymes that may have been dormant in the dried state. These enzymes can catalyze the breakdown of complex flavor precursors into simpler, more volatile compounds that contribute to the chili’s aroma profile. The result is a release of a round, full aroma that includes bright, fruity notes, which were less accessible in the dried state.
The heat compounds in chilies, primarily capsaicinoids, are also affected by rehydration. In their dried form, these compounds are tightly packed within the chili’s flesh, rendering a heat that feels sharper and more localized on the palate. When rehydrated, the capsaicinoids are dispersed more evenly throughout the reconstituted tissue, which, again, can generate a heat sensation that feels smoother and more evenly distributed across the palate. And yet again, this allows the heat to be perceived as rich and robust, yet nuanced, allowing other subtle flavors to emerge alongside the spiciness.
Color Modification
When dried chilies are rehydrated, they absorb water, which causes their cells to swell. The pigments within the cells, which had condensed and darkened during dehydration, are diluted and redispersed throughout the hydrated cells. The moisture absorbed during rehydration creates a glossier surface appearance, and the rehydrated chilies appear slightly brighter and more vibrant in color compared to their dehydrated state. However, the main pigments in chilies are carotenoids, and even though they are relatively stable during drying, some degradation of these pigments still occurs and cannot be reversed via rehydration.
Fresh Chilies: Vibrant Heat and Grassiness
Green chilies inject an immediate, sharp heat into the curry paste, accompanied by a distinctly grassy aroma that can introduce bitterness and dominate the sensory experience. As chilies mature, chlorophyll breaks down; red, orangey colored carotenoids like capsanthin and beta-carotene increase and, as the chilies’ red color deepens, their grassy tinted heat with its vibrant, intense pungency transforms into a floral-fruitiness that is as fleeting as it is lively.
Rehydrated dried chilies are used predominantly in Siamese cuisine to prepare layered and complex curries. This preference for dried chilies arises from their capacity to impart depth and a nuanced flavor profile that is not as sharp; using dried chilies also precludes the imposition of the grassy notes characteristic of fresh green chilies, which can dominate the sensory experience and act as a barrier, preventing the nuanced flavors of the protein and other components to shine through.
In contrast, Muslim-influenced curries tend to deploy fresh green chilies, which are tempered with various dry spices such as coriander, cumin, cardamom, nutmeg and mace. This blend of specific spices and chilies moderates the vibrant, grassy taste characteristic of green chilies, transforming the overall flavor profile from bright and grassy to more earthy tones.
The Distinct Nuances of Green, Red and Yellow Chilies
Green Chilies: Lively Grassiness and Sharp Bite
Fresh green chilies contain volatile organic compounds that can easily evaporate at room temperature, Two examples are (Z)-3-hexenal and hexanal. Both are types of aliphatic aldehydes – chemical compounds made up of long chains of carbon and hydrogen atoms linked together, which give them characteristic smell and flavor properties.
These volatile organic compounds are enzymatically produced thorough the breakdown of unsaturated fatty acids when a fresh chili is cut, crushed or pounded into the curry paste –not only giving the fresh chilies their characteristic grassy, vibrant aroma, but also contributing to its green color. In addition to (Z)-3-hexenal and hexanal, fresh chilies contain other impactful volatile compounds such as esters, thiols, terpenes and pyrazines. The specific blend of these volatile compounds depends on the particular chili variety, as well as its ripeness, and how it was processed.
Red Chilies: Tropical Fruitiness and Spicy Heat
Studies have demonstrated that, as chilies mature from the green to the orange and red stages, there is a decrease in the volatile organic compounds and an increase in the concentration of organic acids, capsaicinoids, and aromatic compounds like esters. The increased amounts of terpenoids, particularly limonene, at the red stage, indicate a change in flavor – from green-grassy to the more floral, fruity and citrusy aroma of orange and red chilies.
For instance, the (Z)-3-hexenal and hexanal in green chilies have a fleeting nature due to their high volatility. In contrast, the essential oils in spices like cumin and cardamom are more stable, providing a persistent aromatic presence. The blending of these two types of compounds results in a flavor profile that evolves over time, starting with the fresh notes of the chilies and gradually giving way to the deeper, warmer notes of the spices.
Red and yellow chilies each impart distinct flavors to curry pastes, while red chilies contribute a multidimensional blend of ripe tropical fruitiness, sweetness and spicy heat due to their higher capsaicin content, thus introducing a rich, exotic element.
Yellow Chilies: Bright Citrus and Floral Notes
Yellow chilies feature a unique flavor profile that contrasts significantly with other chili varieties. They are characterized by their fruity, citrusy and floral notes, which bring a refreshing quality to dishes. The presence of specific compounds in yellow chilies is responsible for evoking these aromas of fresh fruit, bright citrus and delicate florals. Zesty citrus highlights add a subtle sharpness to the chilies, balancing out richer flavors in a dish and bestowing a fragrant accent.
As demonstrated, the selection of the chilies when preparing curry is an important step, as this choice impacts the dish’s flavor, color, aroma and heat profile. Each chili variation – dried, fresh, green or red – brings its own set of nuances to a dish. Thus, to ensure the desired outcome, it is worthwhile to take into account the distinctive qualities and culinary consequences of various chili types.
Roasted Ground Dried Chilies: Smoky Richness with a Complex Profile
The roasting process of dried chilies unlocks a smoky richness that cannot be provided by chilies that are fresh or merely dried. As the chilies are gently roasted to the desired surface char percentages, their natural oils are released, intensifying their aroma and flavor. This process also imparts a subtle smokiness – an integral part of the flavor foundation – supplying an additional layer of taste that is both rustic and solid.
Dried and Fresh Bird’s Eye Chilies: A Dynamic Blend of Heat and Flavor
A blend of dried chilies and fresh bird’s eye chilies creates a unique and dynamic flavor profile. This combination includes the earthy warmth of the dried chilies and the piercing intensity of fresh bird’s eye chilies, offering a layered spiciness that is both intense and well-rounded.
Fresh bird’s eye chilies bring an immediate, sharp heat that awakens the senses. Their natural fruity notes and grassy undertones add a fresh dimension to dishes. When combined with the milder, deeper warmth of dried chilies, the result is a steady, building warmth that complements the explosive heat of the bird’s eye variety.
This blend is particularly effective in curries where immediate heat and sustained warmth is desired, such as in certain Southern Thai curries. The fresh bird’s eye chilies contribute their characteristic fiery punch at the outset, while the dried chilies ensure a lingering, complex spiciness that persists.
Grilled Fresh Chilies: Charred Flavor with Vibrant Intensity
Grilling fresh chilies transforms their natural flavors, adding a charred depth that is both enticing and complex. This cooking method enhances the chilies’ inherent qualities, bringing out a smokiness that complements their natural heat and fruitiness.
Also, fresh chilies, when grilled, retain a certain level of their natural freshness and grassy notes, now complemented by the smoky, sweeter charred flavors.
Tiny Dried Chilies: Intense Heat with Minimal Influence on Color
Tiny dried chilies are known for their high heat levels and minimal impact on the color of dishes. These chilies, despite their small size, pack a significant punch in terms of spiciness, delivering a fiery sensation that is remarkably pronounced for their size.
They offer a limited influence on the color of dishes. Unlike larger, fleshier chilies that can impart a rich red hue, these tiny variants have minimal flesh and skin, which means they contribute little to no color when used in cooking. This makes them an ideal choice for dishes where the chef wishes to maintain the original color palette of the ingredients, while still introducing a notable level of heat.
The lack of body in these chilies also means that their flavor contribution is primarily focused on heat rather than on any particular taste notes. They provide a clean, straightforward spiciness without overshadowing other ingredients, perfect when golden shadows of turmeric are desired.
Additional Reading:
This no-nonsense, comprehensive, and uncensored companion masterclass on Thai curries will transform the way you perceive and execute Thai curries, and you will experience a dramatic improvement in your skills upon completing the class.
This masterclass covers Thai curries’ origins, classifications, regional varieties, curry paste composition, ingredients, spices, and color adjustments, along with essential and practical cooking techniques, and the superb flavor layering practices that master chefs use in crafting Thai curries.
Perfumed Muslim-style Curry of Fresh Chilies with Beef (แกงเขียวหวานเนื้อทรงเครื่อง; Gaaeng Khiaao Waan Neuua Sohng Khreuuang)
The Indian and Muslim cuisines present distinct approaches to using dried spices in curries, both of which influence Siamese cuisine in different ways. Indian-inspired Siamese curries spotlight chilies for their vibrant color, fragrance, flavor and heat, while spices like cumin and coriander play a supporting role. The spices complement and temper the chilies’ intensity, creating a rounded, multi-layered flavor profile; nonetheless, the chilies remain the star ingredient, gently complemented by the spices.
Conversely, Muslim-influenced curries, such as massaman curry, prioritize spices over chilies. Spices like cardamom, nutmeg and mace take center stage, while the chilies provide subtle background heat rather than being the primary flavor. In these curries, the focus is on the rich, warm and complex aromas created by the blend of spices, which is a defining characteristic of many Muslim dishes.
Moreover, Siamese cuisine favors using rehydrated dried chilies in curries for their depth; this depth is highly appreciated, along with the complexity, and comparatively milder heat of the rehydrated dried chilies. As well, the harsh grassy notes of fresh chilies are not favored; they’re referred to in Thai as “green rank” or “men khiaao (เหม็นเขียว)”. Muslim curries often use fresh green chilies, tempering their vibrant, grassy taste with dry spices and thus shifting the flavor from bright and fresh to more subdued and earthy tones, resulting in a dish that is perceived to be layered, despite the burst of fresh chilies.
c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
Thai Green Curry with Roasted Duck and Young Chilies (แกงเขียวหวานเป็ดย่าง ; gaaeng khiaao waan bpet yang)
Green curry, with its mellow, creamy green color and rich coconut base, has both fresh and mature flavors. Like new growth on plants, it brings brightness, youthfulness, spring and rebirth to the meltdown of flavors created in the curry paste.
The green curry paste uses mainly the same standard ingredients as Thai spicy-red curry paste: lemongrass, coriander roots, kaffir lime zest, galangal, garlic, shallots, white peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, salt and kapi.
The Contrasting Histories of Gaaeng Rawaaeng (แกงระแวง) – Turmeric-Infused Coconut-Based Thick Curry of Braised Duck and Lemongrass
Gaeng rawang (แกงระแวง) is a curry bearing an unusual name and contradictory accounts regarding its appearance, lineage and origins. When I cook this dish, it is a rich and thick coconut-based curry made with a paste of fresh chilies, aromatics, spices and generous amounts of fresh turmeric, which adds warmth and gives the green chili color a slightly earthier, muted tone that resonates beautifully with the duck meat.
The duck meat is prepared separately and slow-braised in coconut cream before being cooked in the curry. This slow-braising process allows the coconut cream and duck’s fattiness to melt together, resulting in moist and flavorful meat with a hint of sweetness. The curry itself is seasoned to a salty and slightly sweet flavor profile.
Swamp Eel Triple-Layered Red Curry with Fingerroot, Bitter Ginger, Sand Ginger and Thai Basil Flowers (แกงเผ็ดปลาไหลทรงเครื่อง ; Gaaeng Phet Bplaa Lai Sohng Khreuuang)
This eel curry includes a greater-than-usual quantity of aromatics used over three stages. First, the eel is cleaned and sliced into segments; then it is fried with a generous amount of lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and shallots. These help to counter its muddy and somewhat iron-like odor, which disappears along with the liquids and the aromatics.
This eel curry recipe is adapted from the vintage book: “Gap Khaao O:H Chaa Roht” by Ging Ga Nohk) (กับข้าวโอชารส โดย กิ่งกนก – กาญจนาภา พ.ศ. 2485). This rare book was written in 1942 during WWII, a period of global turmoil in which Thailand was invaded by the Japanese. That same year marked a decade from the ending of absolute monarchy rule in 1932, and one generation away from the peak of the Siamese culinary renaissance that flourished in the court of King Rama V (1868-1910): a nostalgic era for its children who are still with us to remember and reflect on those times.
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