This vibrant salad combines the richness of crumbled duck egg yolks with the zesty notes of citrus and aromatic herbs.
Set against a backdrop of aromatics, the crumbled essence of cured duck egg yolks glow in a delicate orange-gold shade, evoking a shimmering sunlit dawn. The cured yolks bestow a rich, briny base that acquires even deeper undertones when seasoned with fish sauce and sugar. This base takes on a luxuriously silky texture, reminiscent of a finely whipped mousse, when mixed with juices of lime and kaffir lime, which also give the mix a crisp, clean citrusy finish.
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In a playful touch, thin slices of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, shallots, garlic and juliennes of young ginger add layers of citrusy and allium flavors. Furthermore, bitter orange peel and segments of bitter orange fruit contribute vibrant pops of bitter-sweet tartness. Last, thinly sliced bird’s eye chilies provide gentle spikes of heat and a sprinkle of coriander leaves and red chili slivers adorn the top with a snap of color and herbal aroma.
Based on a 1933 recipe by Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), this dish can be served as a salad or relish in traditional Samrub menu designs. While it’s called pla (salad), it has a relish-like texture and its preparation and bright citrus aroma is reminiscent of the kapi pla relish (กะปิพล่า; gabpi phlaa) recipe from Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (อาหารของโปรด ของหม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล).
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Ingredients
- 3 raw salted duck egg yolk (ไข่แดงเค็มดิบ) crumbled to almost powder (add some of the whites if not salty enough)
- 1 tablespoon lemongrass (ตะไคร้) thinly sliced
- 1/2 tablespoon kaffir lime leaves (ใบมะกรูด) sliced into hair-thin juliennes
- 1 tablespoon shallots (หอมแดง) thinly sliced
- 1/2 tablespoon Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon young ginger (ขิงอ่อน) sliced into thin juliennes
- 1/2 tablespoon bitter orange peel (som.saa)(ผิวนส้มซ่า) thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons bitter orange (som.saa)(ส้มซ่า) sliced into segments
- three colors of chilies – red, green, yellow and chilies (พริกสามสี) thinly sliced
Seasoning:
- 1 part kaffir lime juice (น้ำมะกรูด)
- 1 /12 parts lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 3/4 part granulated sugar (น้ำตาลทราย)
- 1 part fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
Garnish with:
- three colors of chilies – red, green, yellow and chilies (พริกสามสี)
- coriander leaves (ใบผักชี) ใบผักชี
Serve with:
- fresh vegetables (ผักสด)
Instructions
- Boil the duck eggs.
- Crumble the salted duck egg yolks.
- Combine the crumbled yolks with kaffir lime juice, lime juice, granulated sugar and fish sauce at the ratios indicated.
- Mix until a creamy consistency is achieved.
- If desired, include some of the minced egg whites.
- Add the aromatics – lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, shallots, garlic, young ginger, bitter orange peel and bitter orange fruit segments. Reserve some of each to include in the toppings.
- Add Thai bird’s eye chilies.
- Garnish with julienned red long chili and coriander leaves.
- Serve with fresh vegetables
Duck laap, like other laap dishes, uses the whole duck, head to tail – including its meat, skin, internal organs, and bones. The recipe I provide below is modified for home-style cooking and uses duck parts; in the village environment, the duck is butchered and the bird is allowed to bleed completely, the blood is collected, and the bird is then cleaned and plucked.
Roasted Stuffed Duck Breast with Chestnuts and Mackerel (เป็ดยัดไส้เกาลัดรมควัน; bpet yat sai gaolat rohm khwan), circa 1935
Smoked duck stuffed with a mackerel and chestnut filling is a dish that defies cultural boundaries. An exemplar of blended culinary influences, featuring inviting colors and an elegant presentation that serve as a prelude to the complex flavors and textures that await, the dish is an eloquent testament to the cooking style of Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag, who went by the pen name “the granddaughter of Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa”). In the 1930s. Mrs. Jeep Bunnag published her first cookbook. Following in the footsteps of her revered grandmother-in-law, Lady Plean Passakornrawong, she continued to document the art of Siamese cuisine through the treasured books she published and was known for her ability to merge culinary traditions into beautiful and innovative dishes that represent an era.
The rich, dark color of the smoked duck’s skin is visually striking and appetizing, evoking a sense of indulgence and luxury. The smoky flavors that permeate the meat reflect our deep connection to primal cooking techniques, a fascinating juxtaposition to the refined presentation of the dish. When the smoked duck is sliced, its succulent pink meat is revealed, surrounding the golden filling of chestnuts and mackerel.
Salad of smoked grilled duck breast with roasted shallots and bitter yellow eggplants (พล่าอกเป็ดรมควันกับมะเขือเหลืองและหอมเผา ; phlaa ohk bpet rohm khwan gap ma kheuua leuuang lae haawm phao)
A pla (พล่า) style salad of smoked grilled duck with roasted caramelized shallots, bitter yellow eggplants, and aromatics. The duck is smoke-grilled to medium-well doneness. […]
Duck Curry with Prunes and Apples (แกงเป็ดกับพรูนและแอปเปิ้ล อย่าง ม.ล. เติบ ชุมสาย; gaaeng bpet gap phruun lae aaep bpeern)
When it comes to pairing fruits with meats in savory dishes, it’s hard to match the bold tangy-luscious combination of apples and prunes in this old-fashioned coconut-based spicy curry with braised duck. The dish is seasoned to a spicy, salty, and sour-sweet flavor profile, which is further intensified by the prunes’ subtle nectareous, savory-sweetness and the apples’ fruity, sweet-tartness. This curry is a perfect example of how fruits can complement the already complex and profound aromatic relationships between meaty-savory flavors, the curry paste’s aromatic identity, and the dish’s herbal character of Thai basil and fresh peppercorns – creating a most memorable flavor impression.
This rich velvety relish highlights the creaminess of the salted duck egg yolks. It can be prepared in the same way using crab roe (ไข่ปู; […]
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