Known as muu bping sapbparoht (หมูปิ้งสัปปะรด) and translated as grilled pork with pineapple, this dish showcases cubes of grilled pork meat and firm fat with fresh pineapple. The pork meat is marinated in light soy sauce and an array of dry spices, giving it earthy and slightly spicy notes. The cubes are then threaded onto skewers, interspersed with evenly sliced pieces of firm pork fat. When grilled, these pieces of pork fat introduce an additional layer of richness and juiciness to the meat. The preferred cut of choice for this dish is pork neck, a cut highly valued for its optimal ratio of lean meat to fat, culminating in a pleasingly succulent texture when grilled.
In Thai cuisine, it is common practice to sprinkle grated coconut over glowing charcoal while grilling. The heat-induced combustion of aromatic fats within the coconut introduces an additional dimension of sweet, smoky richness to the dish. Meanwhile, the charring of the edges of the meat catalyzes the caramelization of its natural sugars, yielding a delightful sweetness that further enhances the smoky undertones of the meat.
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Once properly cooked, the tender grilled pork cubes and pork fat, glistening from the rendering of their own oils, are served with fresh, sour-sweet pineapple. This tangy fruitiness underscores the sweetness of the grilled meat and provides a textural and flavorful counterpoint to the rich and fatty meat. The pairing of pineapple with grilled or fried meats is often seen in traditional Thai recipes. For example, in the memorial book for Thanpuying (Lady) Gleep Mahithaawn (1876-1961), the wife of Jao Praya Mahithaawn – a justice minister in the 1930s – a recipe for Galloping Horse (Maa Haaw) (ม้าฮ่อ) was printed. The recipe calls for minced pork belly, garlic, coriander roots and white peppercorns; the mixture is seasoned with ground coriander and cumin seeds and then deep-fried into small, round balls and served with fresh pineapple or tangerines.
This dish is inspired by a 1933 recipe from Jeeb Bunnag, the daughter-in-law of Lady Plean Passakornrawong, and presents a slightly different take on the tradition. The pork is marinated in a spice blend comprising white peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, Siam cardamom, cloves, licorice root, nutmeg seed and mace. The process of roasting and grinding these spices releases their complex aromas, resulting in a flavor profile that is warm, earthy, slightly spicy, and filled with undertones of sweetness and citrus, thus embracing the fruity character of the pineapple.
I like to add pineapple to the pork marinade, as it helps tenderize the meat and introduces the pineapple sugars to the pork early on in the cooking process. While the pineapple is meant to be eaten raw with the grilled pork, there is nothing wrong, taste-wise, in serving the pineapple grilled.
When grilling pork neck on skewers, it is important to remember that the meat may undergo some shrinkage due to its fatty nature. Therefore, take this into account when cutting the meat into pieces, to ensure that the final cooked size meets your desired outcome.
Additionally, I always recommend using freshly roasted and freshly ground dry spices. It is best to roast and grind each spice separately using a mortar and pestle. Following this simple rule can greatly enhance the quality of your cooking. The flavors and aromas of freshly roasted and ground spices are more vibrant and intense, and provide the high quality that your dishes deserve!
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Ingredients
- pork neck meat (สันคอหมู)
- firm pork fat (มันหมูแข็ง)
- pineapple (สัปปะรด)
For the marinade:
- light soy sauce (ซีอิ๊วขาว)
- white peppercorns (พริกไทย) (S1) roasted and ground
- coriander seeds (malet phak chee) (เมล็ดผักชี) (S2) roasted and ground
- cumin seeds (malet yeeraa) (เมล็ดยี่หร่า) (S3) roasted and ground
- Siam Cardamom pods (luuk grawaan) (ลูกกระวาน) (S4) roasted and ground
- clove (กานพลู) (S7) roasted and ground
- liquorice (ชะเอม) roasted and ground
- nutmeg seed (ลูกจันทน์เทศ) (S5) roasted and ground
- mace (ดอกจันทน์เทศ) (S6) roasted and ground
To grill:
- skewers (ไม้เสียบ)
- charcoals (ถ่าน)
- grated coconut (มะพร้าวขูด)
Instructions
- Prepare the pork: Cut the pork neck into 1 – 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) cubes, considering the potential shrinkage during grilling. Cut the firm pork fat into similar-sized pieces.
- Roast the spices: Individually roast the dry spices in a dry pan over low heat until fragrant.
- Grind the spices: Allow the roasted spices to cool down, then grind them separately into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle. Working with the spices individually allows you to adjust the marinade’s aromatic intensities according to your preferences.
- Prepare the marinade: In a mixing bowl, combine the ground spices with light soy sauce.
- Add pineapple to the marinade: Dice the pineapple and add it to the spice and soy sauce mixture. Gently crush the pineapple to release its juices and sweetness into the marinade.
- Marinate the pork: Thoroughly coat each piece of pork neck cube with the marinade. Let the meat marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to penetrate.
- Prepare the skewers: Thread the marinated pork cubes and slices of firm pork fat onto skewers, alternating between the two. This step enhances the richness and juiciness of the dish.
- Prepare the grill: Light up the charcoal, and wait until the flames subside; wait until the charcoal is properly heated up before starting the grilling process.
- Add coconut smoke to the charcoal (optional): Sprinkle grated coconut over the glowing charcoal to add a smoky nuttiness to the dish.
- Grill the skewers: Cook the skewers on the charcoal grill, turning them occasionally, until the pork is cooked through.
- Check for charring: While grilling, observe the edges of the meat for charring. This indicates the caramelization of natural sugars, enhancing the smoky undertones.
- Rest the pork: Once the pork is cooked properly, remove the skewers from the grill and allow them to rest for a few minutes.
- Serve the dish: Serve the grilled pork cubes and pork fat skewers with fresh pineapple. Cut the pineapple into triangles or spoon-like slices and place a piece of grilled meat and fat on each slice. The pineapple provides a tangy contrast to the rich and fatty meat.
- Optional: Grill the pineapple: For additional flavor, you can also grill the pineapple and serve it alongside the pork.
c1933 Manifold flavors curry – a chicken and pineapple spicy curry (แกงเผ็ดหลากหลายรส; gaaeng phet laak laai roht)
At first glance, this chicken and pineapple curry might seem ordinary or plain. After all, even though spicy curries with sour notes have been relished for ages, they feature repetitive patterns that could be viewed as common and perhaps uninteresting. However, with a calculated yet simple approach, this curry turns corners – quite literally – into a dish with a new flavor melody. It is thus referred to by its author, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), as laak laai roht, a “curry with manifold flavors (หลากหลายรส)”.
Slices of firm pork fat and pork liver are alternately layered on top of one another and tied into bite-sized bundles using green threads made […]
Fermented Rice Noodles Served with Pineapple, Fish Balls in Coconut Milk, Grilled Curried Fish Cakes, Young Ginger and Dry Shrimp Powder
(ขนมจีนซาวน้ำ ; khanohm jeen saao naam )
For the khanohm jeen saao naam version that we present today, we turn again to the writing of Thanpuying (Lady) Gleep Mahithaawn for her unique take on the dish. Her version is quite similar to the common recipe encountered nowadays, but Lady Gleep enhances it with more ingredients, elevating the dish yet another notch to the level of a majestic masterpiece.
c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
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