Miang Sot (เมี่ยงซด) - Miiang Soht, circa 1928
The word ‘miang’ is often used to designate Thai hors d’oeuvre-like snacks consisting of various ingredients wrapped in leaves. To chew on a miang parcel delivers a delightful melee of flavors and textures, each triumphing over the other in a continuous transformation, creating a captivating and ever-evolving taste experience throughout the bite. Miang sot is a fermented leaves dish that appeared in a cookbook published in honor of Thao Suphatigaanapakdee (also known as Prik Sirisamphan) (ท้าวสุภัติการภักดี (ปริก ศิริสัมพันธ์)), in 1928. Titled Gap Khaao Thai (กับข้าวไทย), the book features a collection of recipes that were once prepared and served to King Chulalongkorn Rama V. The author, Sohmboon Sirisamphan (เถ้าแก่ สมบุญ ศิริสัมพันธ์) a respected elder (known as thao gaae (เถ้าแก่) in Thai), was a distinguished businessman of Chinese origins. The dish is composed of fermented tea leaves; it is perhaps the closest tea leaves wrap to the ‘miang’ style introduced to the Siamese court by Princess Dara Rasami in the late 1800s. The dish gives us a glimpse of flavor of what her household, which participated in the informal marketplace events within the palace, might have to offer. The popularity of miang in Siamese cuisine is tied to the history of two kingdoms, Siam and Lanna, and the life of one princess, Princess Dara Rasami. The daughter of King Inthawichayanon of Chiang Mai and the fifth consort of King Chulalongkorn, the princess was selected at the age of thirteen, in 1886, to serve as a consort to King Chulalongkorn in the Inner Palace; the decision was shaped by both political strategy and personal transition. At the time, Siam was consolidating its power and extending its influence over neighboring regions, including Lanna. As the ruler of Chiang Mai, Princess Dara Rasami’s father, Intawichayanon, viewed the move as a strategic alliance. In return, King Chulalongkorn presented him with the medal of the Order of Chula Chom Klao, which is the Siamese equivalent of a knighthood.
Thong Yip Naan Nueng (ทองหยิบนานนึ่ง; thaawng yip naan neung)
Thong Yip Naan Nueng (ทองหยิบนานนึ่ง; thaawng yip naan neung)
Thong Yip Naan Nueng, mold-fried wheat batter with crab, pork, and chicken, inverted mid-fry until golden. From Gingganok Gaanjanaaphaa, 1935.
Taro and Crab Fritters (ทอดมันปูเผือก; thaawt man bpuu pheuuak)
Taro and Crab Fritters (ทอดมันปูเผือก; thaawt man bpuu pheuuak)
Thaawt man bpuu pheuuak: finely shredded taro and sea crab in coconut-cream batter, fried in flat molds. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Arabian noodles
c1936 Arabian noodles – Princess Maao Thongthaem’s Siamese-Orientalist fermented rice noodles light meal (ขนมจีนอาหรับ อย่าง เม้า ทองแถม; khanohm jeen aarap)
Chicken Krayakhu, Delicate Chicken and Crab Young Rice Porridge (ไก่กระยาคู; gai gra yaa khuu)
Chicken Krayakhu, Delicate Chicken and Crab Young Rice Porridge (ไก่กระยาคู; gai gra yaa khuu)
Chicken Krayakhu, a refined porridge combining ground young rice with chicken, crab meat and fresh ginger. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of aristocratic Thai cuisine.
Torpedo Fish - Torpedo Fish - Steamed Stuffed Squid (ปลาตอปิโดตุ๋น; bplaa dtaaw bpi do:h dtoon)
Torpedo Fish - Torpedo Fish - Steamed Stuffed Squid (ปลาตอปิโดตุ๋น; bplaa dtaaw bpi do:h dtoon)
Torpedo Fish - Steamed Stuffed Squid features small squid filled with crab-pork mixture and sweet corn. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of Thai appetizers.
Miang on Golden Trays (เมี่ยงถาดทอง; miang thaat thaawng)
Miang on Golden Trays (เมี่ยงถาดทอง; miang thaat thaawng) (กระทงทอง)
Miang thaat thaawng, palm-pressed fried pastry cups filled with crab, pork, pickled garlic, and bitter orange zest. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Fried Dried Fish with Watermelon (ผัดปลาแห้งแตงอุลิต ; phat bplaa haaeng dtaaeng oo lit)
Fried Dried Fish with Watermelon (ผัดปลาแห้งแตงอุลิต ; phat bplaa haaeng dtaaeng oo lit)
Here is a summer dish that showcases the wisdom of creating complex flavors through simplicity. Using just lightly salted semi-dried snakehead fish, golden deep-fried shallots and a sweetening agent (either sugar or coconut), we create a condiment that partners perfectly with pieces of sweet juicy watermelon.
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Miiang naaem bplaa, grilled snakehead fish with fire-roasted galangal juice and bitter orange, served in lettuce cups. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Muslim-Style Curry Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวแขก; guay dtiaao khaaek)
Muslim-Style Curry Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวแขก; guay dtiaao khaaek)
Guay dtiaao khaaek, beef simmered in curry paste and thin coconut milk over rice noodles, seasoned only at the table. Favorite Dishes, 1978.
c1908 Fermented rice noodles and golden coconut chicken sauce with an Indian flair (ขนมจีนแขก หรือ ไก่ต้มขนมจีน ; khanohm jeen khaaek)
Royal-Style Stir-Fried Unripe Rice with Pork and Seafood (ข้าวเหม้าหมี่; khaao mao mee)
Royal-Style Stir-Fried Unripe Rice with Pork and Seafood (ข้าวเหม้าหมี่; khaao mao mee)
Royal-Style Stir-Fried Unripe Rice with Pork and Seafood, a dry-fried Thai royal dish using pounded unripe rice instead of vermicelli. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
Fermented Rice Noodles and Golden Coconut Chicken Sauce with an Indian Flair (ไก่ต้มขนมจีบ; gai dtohm khohn ma jeep)
Fermented Rice Noodles and Golden Coconut Chicken Sauce with an Indian Flair (ไก่ต้มขนมจีบ; gai dtohm khohn ma jeep)
Gai dtohm khohn ma jeep, a coconut-simmered chicken sauce with Indian influences served with fermented rice noodles. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
khao-prasuri
Phra Suli - Three-Flavor Seasoned Rice with Shrimp, Firm Pork Fat and Pork Skin (ข้าวพระศุลี; Khaao Phra Soolee)
Mrs. Paan Nanthaathiwat (คุณปาน นันทาถิวัฒน์) (1893-1955) was known for her kitchen skills. She often cooked for friends and family, spending time in the kitchen with her best friend, Mrs. Yim Pichaiyat Bunnag (คุณยิ้ม พิชัยญาติ บุนนาค (1892-1976). Thus, it was not a surprise when in 1953 she authored a recipe book as part of her merit offering on her 60th birthday. Sadly, Mrs. Paan passed away a year later and the publication, titled Hoong Khaao Dtohm Gaaeng (หุ้งข้าวต้มแกง), was later printed as a memorial book for her funeral. In 1977, the volume was reprinted for the funeral of her best friend, Mrs. Yim. It is unclear why Mrs. Paan named this citrusy, sour, and salty seasoned rice dish after Lord Shiva, calling it “Phra Suli (พระศุลี ; phra soolee)”. Yet I believe the name of the dish is meant to evoke the elegance and delicacy of the deity rather than to reference cultural authenticity or tradition.
Steamed Dumplings with Scalloped Edges (ปั้นขลิบนึ่ง; bpan khlip neung)
Steamed Dumplings with Scalloped Edges (ปั้นขลิบนึ่ง; bpan khlip neung)
Steamed Dumplings with Scalloped Edges featuring a savory pork, chicken, and peanut filling wrapped in a special rice flour dough. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 royal cookbook.
Decorated Corn (ข้าวโพดประดับ; khaao pho:ht bpra dap)
Decorated Corn (ข้าวโพดประดับ; khaao pho:ht bpra dap)
Decorated Corn, a palace-style appetizer featuring spiced chicken molded around baby corn and adorned with kernels. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 Thai cookbook.
Vietnamese-Style Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนญวน; khanohm jeen yuaan)
Vietnamese-Style Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนญวน; khanohm jeen yuaan)
Vietnamese-Style Rice Noodles features fermented rice noodles layered with fresh shrimp, pork, and herbs, dressed with a tangy sauce. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
New-Style Vietnamese Crispy Khanom Beuuang Crepes (ขนมเบื้องญวนใหม่; khanom beuuang yuan mai)
New-Style Vietnamese Crispy Khanom Beuuang Crepes (ขนมเบื้องญวนใหม่; khanom beuuang yuan mai)
Khanom beuuang yuan mai: a rice-mung bean crepe kneaded with limewater for crispness, filled with shrimp tomalley and lotus seeds. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Royal Rice Porridge with Accompaniments (ข้าวต้มทรงเครื่อง; khaao dtohm sohng khreuuang)
Royal Rice Porridge with Accompaniments (ข้าวต้มทรงเครื่อง; khaao dtohm sohng khreuuang)
Royal Rice Porridge with Accompaniments features crispy dried shrimp, tofu, peanuts, and potato chips atop soft rice porridge. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice, a royal Thai fried rice combining shrimp, pork and chicken with elaborate garnishes including pickled vegetables and salted egg. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
naam-yaa-jeen
Naam Yaa Jeen - Fermented Rice Noodles with Chinese Sauce by HRH Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (น้ำยาจีน อย่างกรมหลวงพิทักษมนตรี)
Among the various curries that can be poured over khanom jeen fermented rice noodles, this broth, known as Chinese-style “naam yaa,” is unique in that it is a water-based curry that does not have chilies. As such, rather than the typical reddish-rust color of most coconut-based naam ya dishes from the Central Plains of the Kingdom, the sauce glows with a soft, light ivory hue, beautifully reflecting the dish’s natural sweet-savoriness, which is derived from slow-braising three proteins – chicken, pork and shrimp – along with a curry paste galvanized by smoke-dried fish and aromatic roots like galangal, fingerroot and sand ginger. The naam ya broth is served over a bed of fermented rice noodles and garnished with toppings such as delicate pulled chicken breast threads, golden-crispy fried shallots and garlic, and vivid green fresh coriander leaves and spring onion. All these elements add a visual grace and a hint of freshness to the robust broth – the signature dish of Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (กรมหลวงพิทักษ์มนตรี).
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