Grilled Rawaaeng Curried Rice Parcels in Banana Leaves (ระแวงขาวปิง; ra waaeng khaao bping)
Grilled Rawaaeng Curried Rice Parcels in Banana Leaves (ระแวงขาวปิง; ra waaeng khaao bping)
Ra waaeng khaao bping, rice parcels with duck and coconut cream wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 Thai appetizer cookbook.
miang kham ; เมี่ยงคำ
Miang kham - A royal leaf wrap appetizer เมี่ยงคำ
Each leaf-wrapped parcel is a kaleidoscope of flavors and richness, textures, aromas and sensations. Fresh green-earthy-chlorophyll-herby-tobacco-peppery wild betel leaves enfold bursts of flavor from nutty roasted peanuts and crispy roasted coconut matches, the umami of savory dry shrimp, pungent-sweet diced shallots, small ginger cubes with a warm bite, sour and bitter unpeeled lime cubes, citrusy perfumed diced bitter orange (som za), naughty whole fresh tiny bird’s eye chilies, and small slices of the sharp and sour dtaling bpling (Averrhoa bilimbi, a relative of the carambola/starfuit). All of which is blended with a thick paste of sweet-sour and salty palm sugar and tamarind sauce. The miang kham takes every taste bud on a fascinating pleasure trip through sweetness, saltiness, sourness, bitterness, and umami, piquancy, sharpness and spiciness, with an array of textures that slowly subside as the journey ends, leading to a familiar post orgasmic expression, a smile and the desire for more.
Special Seasoned Glutinous Rice with Crab and Chicken (ข้าวเหนียวปรุงพิเศษ; khaao niaao bproong phi saeht)
Special Seasoned Glutinous Rice with Crab and Chicken (ข้าวเหนียวปรุงพิเศษ; khaao niaao bproong phi saeht)
Special Seasoned Glutinous Rice, a royal Thai palace dish featuring coconut-infused sticky rice with crab and chicken. From Jeeb Bunnag's cookbook, 1945.
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Miiang naaem bplaa, grilled snakehead fish with fire-roasted galangal juice and bitter orange, served in lettuce cups. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Roman Tube Noodles (Macaroni) (แป้งหลอดโรมัน; bpaaeng laawt ro:h man)
Roman Tube Noodles (Macaroni) (แป้งหลอดโรมัน; bpaaeng laawt ro:h man)
Roman Tube Noodles, a 1945 Thai-Western fusion dish with rich duck broth and macaroni. From Jeeb Bunnag's 'Cookbook of Desserts, Tea Accompaniments, and Snacks or Appetizers'.
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice, a royal Thai fried rice combining shrimp, pork and chicken with elaborate garnishes including pickled vegetables and salted egg. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
Perplexing Mee Suaa (หมี่สั้วฉงน; mee suaa cha ngohn)
Perplexing Mee Suaa (หมี่สั้วฉงน; mee suaa cha ngohn)
Mee suaa cha ngohn: wheat noodle bundles bound with shrimp-corn paste, steamed, served in clear pork-crab broth. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
khao-prasuri
Phra Suli - Three-Flavor Seasoned Rice with Shrimp, Firm Pork Fat and Pork Skin (ข้าวพระศุลี; Khaao Phra Soolee)
Mrs. Paan Nanthaathiwat (คุณปาน นันทาถิวัฒน์) (1893-1955) was known for her kitchen skills. She often cooked for friends and family, spending time in the kitchen with her best friend, Mrs. Yim Pichaiyat Bunnag (คุณยิ้ม พิชัยญาติ บุนนาค (1892-1976). Thus, it was not a surprise when in 1953 she authored a recipe book as part of her merit offering on her 60th birthday. Sadly, Mrs. Paan passed away a year later and the publication, titled Hoong Khaao Dtohm Gaaeng (หุ้งข้าวต้มแกง), was later printed as a memorial book for her funeral. In 1977, the volume was reprinted for the funeral of her best friend, Mrs. Yim. It is unclear why Mrs. Paan named this citrusy, sour, and salty seasoned rice dish after Lord Shiva, calling it “Phra Suli (พระศุลี ; phra soolee)”. Yet I believe the name of the dish is meant to evoke the elegance and delicacy of the deity rather than to reference cultural authenticity or tradition.
Fried Dried Fish with Watermelon (ผัดปลาแห้งแตงอุลิต ; phat bplaa haaeng dtaaeng oo lit)
Fried Dried Fish with Watermelon (ผัดปลาแห้งแตงอุลิต ; phat bplaa haaeng dtaaeng oo lit)
Here is a summer dish that showcases the wisdom of creating complex flavors through simplicity. Using just lightly salted semi-dried snakehead fish, golden deep-fried shallots and a sweetening agent (either sugar or coconut), we create a condiment that partners perfectly with pieces of sweet juicy watermelon.
Mock Chicken Biryani (ข้าวหมกไก่จำแลง; khaao mohk gai jam laaeng)
Mock Chicken Biryani (ข้าวหมกไก่จำแลง; khaao mohk gai jam laaeng)
Mock Chicken Biryani, a Thai-Indian fusion dish with cardamom-scented rice steamed in banana leaves. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of tea accompaniments.
Sticky Rice with Golden Fish Topping (ข้าวเหนียวหน้าปลาทอง; khaao niaao naa plaa thaawng)
Sticky Rice with Golden Fish Topping (ข้าวเหนียวหน้าปลาทอง; khaao niaao naa plaa thaawng)
Sticky Rice with Golden Fish Topping features coconut-infused glutinous rice topped with crispy sweet-savory fish floss and fried shallots. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook of Thai desserts.
The Elegance of Khanohm Khaang Khaao (ขนมค้างคาว)
If palaces represent grandeur and wealth within a society, and poems often focus on emotional experience or the beauty of language, then the significance of a dumpling may be inferred by its structured elegance and minimalism – each fold and pleat a deliberate act, and each filling a curated experience constructing comfort in its most elemental form. Khanom khaang khaao (ขนมค้างคาว) is a traditional Siamese fried, triangular-shaped dumpling with obvious Chinese origins. Its earliest recorded recipe can be traced back to Jao Khraawk Thaawng Yuu (เจ้าครอกทองอยู่), a distinguished aristocrat from the royal court of Ayutthaya. Historical records indicate that, from the early days of the Rattanakosin era, her recipe was a favored snack within the Siamese royal court. These dumplings are shaped like triangles and, according to some, resemble bats: For this reason, they are called khanom khaang khaao (ขนมค้างคาว) – ‘the bat’s treat’. The dumpling’s dough is made from rice and mung bean flours; its filling is prepared by combining grated coconut and shrimp meat, which are cooked together into a dense, flavorful mixture that brings out the nutty-sweet taste of the grated coconut and the savory-sweet flavors of the shrimp. Kaffir lime leaves, sliced into hair-thin juliennes, add a hint of citrus.
Three Noodle Bundles (เส้นสามแซ่; sen saam saae)
Three Noodle Bundles (เส้นสามแซ่; sen saam saae)
Three Noodle Bundles feature rice vermicelli, Chinese egg noodles (mee sua), and glass noodles wrapped around mustard greens and bound with seasoned pork in Pumpkin Broth. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Vietnamese-Style Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนญวน; khanohm jeen yuaan)
Vietnamese-Style Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนญวน; khanohm jeen yuaan)
Vietnamese-Style Rice Noodles features fermented rice noodles layered with fresh shrimp, pork, and herbs, dressed with a tangy sauce. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
Fat Horse - A Thai appetizer with an amusing name: (ม้าอ้วน ; maa uaan)
Fat Horse - A Thai appetizer with an amusing name: (ม้าอ้วน ; maa uaan)
Maa ouan is a Thai appetizer with clear Chinese characteristics. It resembles the filling of khanohm jeep dumplings (ขนมจีบ), the crab and pork meat fillings of haawy jaaw (ฮ่อยจ๊อ), or the shrimp and pork meat mix of haae geun (แฮ่กึน). Minced pork and shrimp meat are seasoned with garlic, coriander roots, white peppercorns and salt, then mixed with duck egg and a bit of coconut cream, placed in small ceramic cups (thuay dta lai, ถ้วยตะไล), and steamed. It can be served either as a starter, an hors d'oeuvres, or even as a side dish to curries.
miang-bplaa-naaem
bplaa naaem (ปลาแนม) - A Siamese aristocratic small plate snack
Clear Soup with Fish Balls (แกงจืดลูกชิ้นปลา; gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa)
Clear Soup with Fish Balls (แกงจืดลูกชิ้นปลา; gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa)
Gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa, clear soup with Bronze featherback fish balls pounded and slapped until sticky. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Fermented Rice Noodles and Golden Coconut Chicken Sauce with an Indian Flair (ไก่ต้มขนมจีบ; gai dtohm khohn ma jeep)
Fermented Rice Noodles and Golden Coconut Chicken Sauce with an Indian Flair (ไก่ต้มขนมจีบ; gai dtohm khohn ma jeep)
Gai dtohm khohn ma jeep, a coconut-simmered chicken sauce with Indian influences served with fermented rice noodles. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Steamed Gelatinous Rice with Beef Topping (ข้าวเหนียวนึ่งหน้าเนื้อ; khaao niaao neung naa neuua)
Steamed Gelatinous Rice with Beef Topping (ข้าวเหนียวนึ่งหน้าเนื้อ; khaao niaao neung naa neuua)
Steamed Sticky Rice with Beef Topping features pandan-infused rice crowned with coconut-fried salted beef floss. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 Thai cookbook.
Rice Crackers with Sichuan Style Naa Dtang Savory Topping (น่าตั้งเสฉวน; naa dtang saeh chuaan)
Rice Crackers with Sichuan Style Naa Dtang Savory Topping (น่าตั้งเสฉวน; naa dtang saeh chuaan)
Naa dtang saeh chuaan, a seafood-meat umami topping served with assorted crispy accompaniments. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of Thai appetizers.
Thong Yip Naan Nueng (ทองหยิบนานนึ่ง; thaawng yip naan neung)
Thong Yip Naan Nueng (ทองหยิบนานนึ่ง; thaawng yip naan neung)
Thong Yip Naan Nueng, mold-fried wheat batter with crab, pork, and chicken, inverted mid-fry until golden. From Gingganok Gaanjanaaphaa, 1935.
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