The khaao ngohp gai (ข้าวงบไก่) recipe by Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) evokes the flavor and aesthetics of Muslim-style cooking. First, cooked rice, chicken, and chicken offal are fried with butter and perfumed with whole spices. The buttery fried rice is wrapped in banana leaves and then grilled, forming a crispy outer crust of spiced-infused rice grains.
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The grilled rice parcels are served alongside a small bowl of a cooling, sour-sweet coconut-vinegar relish of fresh vegetables called ajat angwa (อาจาดอังวะ). According to the prevailing Muslim culinary tradition, this sour-leading relish pairs well with the buttery-fried rice and the warm dried spices; the relish helps to cleanse the palate of greasiness while easing digestion and stimulating the appetite.
The use of vinegar is common for pickling, flavoring, preserving and softening vegetables. Ajat relish – made solely from vinegar, salt and sugar – is a common accompaniment to rich, oily and heavy foods. In ajat angwa, the essential creaminess, sourness and consistency of the relish are achieved through the judicious addition of water and vinegar; the relish is further deepened with freshly squeezed coconut cream tinted gold by simmering it with fresh turmeric.
While the grilled rice parcels can be prepared well in advance, the ajat angwa relish is prepared to be eaten immediately. Like pickles, the relish adds a fresh dimension to the meal; it contributes color to the table and revives dull appetites.
Note: Marinating the chicken with nutmeg is an effective method of deodorizing the irony and gamy odors of the bird and its offal.
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Ingredients
- 1 cup chicken meat (เนื้อไก่) thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoon2 chicken liver (ตับไก่) thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon chicken gizzard (กึ๋นไก่) thinly sliced
Marinate with:
- 1 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 1 teaspoon white peppercorns (พริกไทย) (S1) roasted and grounded
- 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg seed (ลูกจันทน์เทศ) (S5) roasted and grounded
For the fried rice:
- 2 cups cooked rice (ข้าวสวย)
- 1/2 tablespoon clarified butter (ghee) (เนยกี) or butter (เนย)
- 10 pieces Siam Cardamom pods (luuk grawaan) (ลูกกระวาน) (S4) roasted whole
- 10 pieces clove (กานพลู) (S7) roasted whole
- fish sauce (น้ำปลา) as needed
For the ajaat angwa (อาจาดอังวะ)
- 1 cup coconut middle cream (กลางกะทิ) dilute coconut cream with water at 1:1 ratio.
- 1 tablespoon fresh turmeric (ขมิ้นชัน) peeled and sliced
- 1 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar (น้ำตาลทราย)
- 1 tablespoon 5% white vinegar (น้ําส้มสายชู)
- 2 tablespoons ginger (ขิง) minced
- 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds (งาขาว) roasted
Vegetables:
- cucumber (แตงกวา)
- shallots (หอมแดง)
- Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- yardlong beans (ถั่วฝักยาว)
For wrapping:
- Banana leaf (ใบตอง)
Instructions
Prepare the banana leaf wraps or containers:
- Lightly pass fresh banana leaves over an open fire until they soften. Choose a wrapping style, then cut the banana leaf to the appropriate shape. Set aside.
Marinate the chicken:
- Cut the chicken meat into thin slices, and the chicken liver into bite-size pieces. Cut the chicken gizzard into very thin slices, as it tends to be chewy.
- Roast and grind the white peppercorns and nutmeg seed until fragrant. Set aside.
- Marinate the chicken for 20 minutes with salt and the ground roasted spices.
Prepare the fried rice:
- Roast the Siam cardamom and clove whole until fragrant and set aside. Both are used whole and are not grounded. Set aside.
- In a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, fry the marinated chicken meat in butter or ghee until it is halfway cooked.
- Add the garlic and stir fry it until fragrant; don’t allow it to brown.
- Sprinkle some water or stock into the wok to deglaze the wok before adding the whole spices.
- Add the rice and fry it with the chicken until the rice grains are dry and evenly fried.
- Taste and adjust the saltiness with fish sauce as needed. Set the fried rice aside.
Grilling:
- Place two pieces of banana leaf on top of each other, keeping the waxy-shiny side facing out. Next, scoop out the mixed rice and place it on the banana leaves. Wrap the rice in banana leaves into equal-size parcels. You can make these parcels as large or small as you wish.
- Grill the banana leaf wraps over low heat on a charcoal grill until the banana leaves char, and the rice develops a crust and absorbs the grill smoke.
Serving:
- Place the grilled rice on a serving plate with sliced shallots, sliced cucumber, and yardlong beans. Garnish with thinly julienned ginger and coriander leaves. Serve alongside a sour-sweet coconut-base vegetable relish (อาจาดอังวะ; aajaat angwa)
Prepare the sour-sweet coconut-base vegetable relish (อาจาดอังวะ; aajaat angwa):
- In a pot, heat coconut cream diluted with water. Add sliced fresh turmeric and simmer on low heat until the coconut cream becomes a golden yellow.
- Season to a sour-sweet-salty profile. Add salt at the ratios indicated.
- Add granulated sugar at the ratios indicated.
- Add vinegar at the ratios indicated.
- Allow the coconut to cool to room temperature before adding the rest of the ingredients.
- Add the minced ginger.
- Add the roasted white sesame seeds.
- Add the rest of the sliced vegetables.
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with curried rice, shrimp meat grated coconut, and herbs. (ข้าวงบกุ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์ ; khaao ngohp goong)
The khaao ngohp goong (ข้าวงบกุ้ง) of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) is a dish of seasoned curried rice mixed with shrimp meat, shrimp tomalley, grated coconut, and herbs. The rice mix is then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals an intense orange- and russet-brown colored rice cake that is rich, savory and naturally sweet. It is served with a drizzle of thickened coconut cream and herbs.
Khaao bping – grilled banana leaf parcels filled with fermented shrimp paste relish seasoned rice, sweet pork, and crispy garlic (ข้าวปิ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์)
Khaao bping (ข้าวปิ้ง) is a dish of seasoned rice mixed with sweet pork and crispy fried garlic, then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals a slightly charred rice cake that melts into a pleasantly chewy, smoky, and deliciously savory treat. Created by using basic ingredients of Siamese cuisine, the dish can be served on a bed of banana leaves or on fine porcelain plates, thus touching the hearts of diners from all walks of life.
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Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
Beef Phanaeng Curry and Ancient Grilled Phanaeng Chicken Curry (พะแนงเนื้อ และ ไก่ผะแนง จากตำราอาหารที่เก่าสุดในสยาม)
Breaking news: The oldest Thai cookbook, as well as history’s first-ever recorded recipe for Phanaeng curry, are revealed for the first time on Thaifoodmaster.com – A 126-year-old cookbook written by one of Siam’s most revered singers, Maawm Sohm Jeen (Raa Chaa Noopraphan) (หม่อมซ่มจีน, ราชานุประพันธุ์), has been rediscovered, offering a unique glimpse into the culinary repertoire of 19th-century Siam. In this chapter we examine the different forms of phanaeng curry from the 1800s to the present day, as we reconstruct the 19th-century version and craft step-by-step a traditional beef phanaeng curry.
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