Mom Chao Sai Ladawan’s (Princess Saisawali Phirom) khaao bping (ข้าวปิ้ง) is a dish of seasoned rice mixed with sweet pork and crispy fried garlic, then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals a slightly charred rice cake that melts into a pleasantly chewy, smoky, and deliciously savory treat. Created by using basic ingredients of Siamese cuisine, the dish can be served on a bed of banana leaves or on fine porcelain plates, thus touching the hearts of diners from all walks of life.
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Grilled parcels of rice in various shapes and seasonings are treats that stand out in the childhood memory of every Siamese person. Khaao jee (ข้าวจี่), snacks of plain steamed glutinous rice, brushed with beaten egg and grilled over a charcoal grill, were the snack of choice for upcountry kids, running joyfully through a landscape of rice paddies. But similar parcels of grilled rice mixed with fish meat (แจงลอนข้าวปิ้ง; jaaeng laawn khaao bping) or seasoned with chili relish and sweet pork, were equally comforting served as afternoon snacks in the palace gardens behind the white walls.
Leftovers of cooked rice, fermented shrimp paste chili relish (น้ำพริกกะปิ ; naam phrik gabpi), and sweet pork condiment (หมูหวาน ; muu waan) – ingredients commonly found in the pantry of any Siamese household of the past – were mixed together with a generous amount of crispy fried garlic, then wrapped in banana leaves and slowly grilled over a charcoal grill. These surplus ingredients were transformed into a successful dish that stands on its own – and is worth the time and effort to cook from scratch, even when the leftovers are long gone.
The following recipe is inspired by a recipe by Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (HRH Princess Saisawali Phirom, พระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์)
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Ingredients
- 2 cups cooked rice (ข้าวสวย)
- 3 tablespoons sweet pork (หมูหวาน)
- 2 tablespoons fermented shrimp paste chili relish (naam phrik kapi)(น้ำพริกกะปิ)
- 1/3 cup crispy fried Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทยเจียว)
- 1 duck egg (ไข่เป็ด)
Seasoning: fermented shrimp paste chili relish (naam phrik kapi)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ) grilled
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- 1/2 tablespoon dried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น)
- 5 fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด)
- 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 1 3/4 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 2 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 1 tablespoon water or stock (น้ำเปล่าหรือน้ำสต๊อก) as needed
- madan (sour cucumber, มะดัน)(garcinia schomburgkiana) optional
- hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก) optional
Sweet minced pork:
- 150 gr minced pork meat (เนื้อหมูบด)
- 1 tablespoon pork lard (น้ำมันหมู)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 2 1/2 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 1/2 teaspoon galangal powder (ข่าป่น)
- 2 tablespoons water or stock (น้ำเปล่าหรือน้ำสต๊อก) or
- young coconut water (น้ำมะพร้าวอ่อน)
For Wrapping:
- Banana leaf (ใบตอง)
Garnish:
- crispy fried Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทยเจียว)
Instructions
Prepare the banana leaf wraps or containers:
- Lightly pass fresh banana leaves over an open fire until they soften. Choose a wrapping style, then cut the banana leaf to the appropriate shape. Set aside.
Prepare a basic fermented shrimp paste relish (nam prhrik kapi) that is slightly runnier than usual:
- Pound the fermented shrimp paste (grilled in banana leaves) with an equal amount of garlic until the mixture is smooth and the shrimp paste and garlic aromas have mellowed down.
- Add the dried shrimp powder.
- Season to a sour-sweet-salty flavor profile. Start by seasoning the salty element using fish sauce.
- When you are satisfied with the saltiness, add palm sugar at the ratio indicated.
- Add lime juice at the ratio indicated.
- Add green bird’s eye chilies and bruise them lightly.
- Mix these ingredients together and thin with more water/stock as necessary. Set aside.
- Optional – add sour fruits such as madan (มะดัน) or hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก)
Prepare the sweet minced pork:
- Mix all the seasoning ingredients and set them aside.
- In a wok over medium-high heat, fry the minced pork with pork lard; using the ladle, break down any lumps.
- Continue stir-frying the meat until all the liquids have completely evaporated, and the meat dries up and starts to brown.
- Add the seasoning
- Stir-fry until the liquids reduce and the pork acquires a transparent brown shine. Place in a bowl and set aside.
Mix the rice:
- In a large glass or steel bowl, mix the cooked rice with the sweet pork.
- Add the fermented shrimp paste relish and mix.
- Taste and adjust seasoning to a salty-sweet lightly sour flavor profile using the relish, the sweet pork, or the fish sauce.
- Add the crispy fried Thai garlic.
- Mix in the duck egg.
Grilling:
- Place two pieces of banana leaf on top of each other, keeping the waxy-shiny side facing out. Next, scoop out the mixed rice and place it on the banana leaves.
- Wrap the rice in banana leaves into equal-size parcels.
- You can make these parcels as large or small as you wish.
- Grill the banana leaf wraps over low heat on a charcoal grill until adequately cooked.
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with curried rice, shrimp meat grated coconut, and herbs. (ข้าวงบกุ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์ ; khaao ngohp goong)
The khaao ngohp goong (ข้าวงบกุ้ง) of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) is a dish of seasoned curried rice mixed with shrimp meat, shrimp tomalley, grated coconut, and herbs. The rice mix is then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals an intense orange- and russet-brown colored rice cake that is rich, savory and naturally sweet. It is served with a drizzle of thickened coconut cream and herbs.
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with butter-fried rice with chicken, chicken offal and dried spices, served with a sour-sweet coconut-base vegetable relish (ข้าวงบไก่ อาจาดอังวะ ; khaao ngohp gai aajaat angwa)
The khaao ngohp gai (ข้าวงบไก่) recipe by Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) evokes the flavor and aesthetics of Muslim-style cooking. First, cooked rice, chicken, and chicken offal are fried with butter and perfumed with whole spices. The buttery fried rice is wrapped in banana leaves and then grilled, forming a crispy outer crust of spiced-infused rice grains.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Chuu Chee Curry of Stuffed Banana Chilies with Pork, Shrimp and Crab Meat (ฉู่ฉี่พริกสอดไส้ ; chuu chee phrik yuaak saawt sai)
This chuu chee features avocado-green banana chilies and the pinkish mixture of pork, shrimp and crab meats. The chilies are sliced open and stuffed with a mixture of the meats, which is seasoned with the basic saam gluuhr (สามเกลอ) paste – the Siamese trio of coriander roots, Thai garlic and white peppercorns. The stuffed chilies are then steamed before being cooked in a thick, reddish, coconut cream-based curry. The liquids collected in the tray during the steaming process are packed with the light sweet fruitiness of the banana chilies; these liquids are reserved and added to the broth, producing a bright and light-bodied dish.
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish – (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
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