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khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
Khanohm Jeen Naam Ngiaao - Shan-Style Tomato Broth over Fermented Rice Noodles with Pork, Chicken Feet and Chicken Blood Cakes (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
A popular noodle dish originating from the Northern region of the Kingdom, khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว) is characterized by its light – yet profound – multi-layered broth. This hearty broth includes an assortment of proteins braised with the dried pollens of cotton tree flowers, and Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม); the tomatoes infuse the broth with a subtle tartness that refreshes a full-bodied profile comprising a multitude of fermented ingredients. The naam ngiaao broth is served over fermented rice noodles and features minced pork, and braised baby back pork ribs with their tender meat clinging to the bone. As well, there are succulent, slow-cooked whole chicken feet, and cubes of slightly bouncy, mauve-hued chicken blood cakes. Served alongside the soup are various toppings, which can include shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, chopped coriander leaves, and spring onions, while dark red chili oil and glossy, charred-fried dried bird’s eye chilies offer a fiery intensity dialed up to your preferred spiciness. In addition, I like to add wok-smoked sour cherry tomatoes and broom-like, crispy-fried dried cotton tree pollen for a surprising textural contrast. Though the dish is often described as “Shan style”, the word ‘ngiao’ was a derogatory expression for the Shan people. As the disparaging – and outdated – label suggests, the recipe might reflect societal biases and prejudices; thus, at least from the culinary perspective, the ‘ngiao’ in the name of the dish may simply be a nod to the flavors or ingredients favored by The Shan, rather than a claim of authenticity – which could also explain why the dish is based on a Siamese curry paste.
papaya salad ข้าวมันส้มตำ
Khaao man sohm dtam and the first-ever recorded recipe for papaya salad (ข้าวมันส้มตำ)
naam-yaa
Khanohm Jeen Naam Yaa (ขนมจีนน้ำยา) - Fermented Rice Noodles with Minced Fish in Aromatic Coconut Curry
In the Central Plains of the Kingdom, fermented rice noodles are inextricably linked to a dish known as naam yaa. Composed of a dense, coconut-based minced fish curry, the dish is infused with layers of salted fish and possesses the distinctive, invigorating and purifying notes of fingerroot. Typically, naam yaa is served with fresh lemon basil as the herb of choice along with an array of side dishes collectively known as meuuat khanohm jeen (เหมือดขนมจีน). These include blanched bean sprouts seasoned with a touch of turmeric for color, fresh lemon basil leaves, thinly sliced three colored chilies, and ground chili for added heat. More elaborate versions will add blanched Chinese bitter gourd slices, batter-fried young morning glory shoots, and fresh shrimp minced and fried with its tomalley in pork lard, as well as crispy-fried shallots as the finishing touch.
Bird Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดนก; khaao phat nohk)
Bird Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดนก; khaao phat nohk)
Khaao phat nohk, field fowl or any small bird stir-fried with pork ham and mustard powder. From Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
Surya Rice (ข้าวพระสุรี่ย์; khaao phra soo ree)
Surya Rice (ข้าวพระสุรี่ย์; khaao phra soo ree)
Surya Rice, pandan-infused rice served with dried beef, shrimp, fish floss, and chili relish. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 Thai cookbook.
phat-phrik-khing
Old-Fashioned Phat Phrik Khing, Yesteryear's Travel Food (ผัดพริกขิง อาหารคนเดินทาง)
ข้าวปลี khaao bplee
c1935 Char-grilled banana blossom stuffed and baked with tamarind relish fried rice (ข้าวปลี ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; khaao bplee)
Grilled banana leaf parcels with shrimp curried rice (ข้าวงบกุ้ง)
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with curried rice, shrimp meat grated coconut, and herbs. (ข้าวงบกุ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์ ; khaao ngohp goong)
The khaao ngohp goong (ข้าวงบกุ้ง) of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) is a dish of seasoned curried rice mixed with shrimp meat, shrimp tomalley, grated coconut, and herbs. The rice mix is then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals an intense orange- and russet-brown colored rice cake that is rich, savory and naturally sweet. It is served with a drizzle of thickened coconut cream and herbs.
Three-Color Vegetable Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดผักสามสี; khaao phat phak saam see)
Three-Color Vegetable Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดผักสามสี; khaao phat phak saam see)
Three-color vegetable fried rice with diced chicken, carrot, peas and radish, the beans boiled in ash water to stay green. From Paan Nanthaaphiwat, 1953.
Three-Color Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดสามสี; khaao phat saam see)
Three-Color Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดสามสี; khaao phat saam see)
Three-color fried rice: pork, shrimp and chicken rices seasoned with fish sauce, tomato sauce and curry powder, plated in sections. From Sai Yaowapa, 1935.
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Miiang naaem bplaa, grilled snakehead fish with fire-roasted galangal juice and bitter orange, served in lettuce cups. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Indian-Style Rice (ข้าวแขก; khaao khaaek)
Indian-Style Rice (ข้าวแขก; khaao khaaek)
Khaao khaaek: lightly salted soft rice under a turmeric-tinted, jasmine-scented coconut cream, twice as thick as the rice. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
c1908 Fermented rice noodles and golden coconut chicken sauce with an Indian flair (ขนมจีนแขก หรือ ไก่ต้มขนมจีน ; khanohm jeen khaaek)
The Ambassador’s House Style Noodle Soup (หมี่น้ำบ้านราชทูต; Mee Naam Baan Raat Thuut)
This soup dish features crispy rice vermicelli noodles, a chicken broth that has a three-flavor profile infused with the aroma of bitter orange, and a plethora of other ingredients such as crispy fried tofu, chicken, pork, crab and pickled garlic. In Thai, the phrase mee naam baan raat thuut refers to a rice vermicelli noodle soup in the style of the Ambassador’s house. The dish was not new when it appeared in the 1956 book Snacks, Tea Nibbles, Hors D’oeuvres and Drinking Food (ตำราอาหารว่าง - เครื่องน้ำชา และ เครื่องเคี้ยว หรือ กับแกล้ม) by Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), as noodle dishes were often the preferred ingredient for light meals or snacks. In Grandparents Recipes: 100 Years Old Recipes (จานอร่อยจากปู่ย่า สูตรโบราณ 100 ปี), a volume printed in 2014 that highlights recipes from the kitchens of fifteen prominent families, a similar version of the dish is referred to as mee naam baan bpaak naai leert (หมี่น้ำบ้านปาร์คนายเลิศ) and is associated with Nai Lert.
Chanthabuun Rice Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวจันทบูรณ์; guay dtiaao jan tha buun)
Chanthabuun Rice Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวจันทบูรณ์; guay dtiaao jan tha buun)
Guay dtiaao jan tha buun, flat rice noodles topped with aromatic coconut duck sauce and crispy potato garnish. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Yam Naem Khao Thot Recipe
Spicy Salad of Curried Rice Croquettes, Fermented Pork, Ginger and Peanuts
(yam naaem khaao thaawt)
สูตรทำยำแหนมข้าวทอด
The dish was introduced to me by a street vendor in forsaken part of town some twenty years ago. Auntie Yai was a true character. She was wearing intensive makeup and I still remember her talkative hilarious manner. I and other customers waiting in line were regularly subjected to nonstop "interrogations" or "interviews". I must admit I enjoyed the peek into other people lives while waiting over an hour for her mouth watering curried rice croquettes. I loved how the pungent, vibrant swirl of ginger was setting off the fermented pork sourness just perfectly, how the nutty crunch of those peanuts was balanced by the vivid tone of fresh herbs.
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice, a royal Thai fried rice combining shrimp, pork and chicken with elaborate garnishes including pickled vegetables and salted egg. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
Fermented Rice Noodles with Sweet Prawn-and-Mung-Bean Sauce (ขนมจีนน้ำพริก; khanohm jeen naam phrik)
Fermented Rice Noodles with Sweet Prawn-and-Mung-Bean Sauce (ขนมจีนน้ำพริก; khanohm jeen naam phrik)
Khanohm jeen naam phrik: fermented rice noodles with pounded prawn, roasted mung bean and tamarind-coconut sauce. Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
Potato Rice Soup (ข้าวต้มันฝรั่ง; khaao dtohm man farang)
Potato Rice Soup (ข้าวต้มันฝรั่ง; khaao dtohm man farang)
Potato Khao dtohm Rice Soup, featuring a clear seafood broth with pork meatballs, served with crispy fried potatoes on the side. From Gingganok's 'Delicious Side Dishes,' 1935.
Special Egg Noodles (บะหมี่พิเศษ; ba mee phi saeht)
Special Egg Noodles (บะหมี่พิเศษ; ba mee phi saeht)
Ba mee phi saeht, egg noodles stir-fried with crab, chicken, and pork, garnished with scored carrots. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Fried Rice with Salted Chinese Black Olive, or Nam Phuay (ข้าวผัดลูกหนำเนี๊ยบหรือหนำพ๊วย; khaao phat luuk nam niiap reuu nam phuay)
Fried Rice with Salted Chinese Black Olive, or Nam Phuay (ข้าวผัดลูกหนำเนี๊ยบหรือหนำพ๊วย; khaao phat luuk nam niiap reuu nam phuay)
Khao phat luk nam nieb: salted Chinese black olive, shelled and mashed fine, tossed through rice. Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
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