Aristocratic and Royal Thai Cuisines Archives

(c1932) Sour water-based curry of pork, salted fish and vegetables blanched in pork lard (gaaeng sohm raang roong ; แกงส้มร่างรุ้ง แกงส้มหมูกับปลาเค็มใส่ผักตี่น้ำมัน )

Crispy Rice - Khaao Graawp (ข้าวกรอบ อย่างหม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์)

Suan Sunandha Palace was the permanent residence of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (HRH Princess Saisawali Phirom, พระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์), the Royal Consort to Rama V. In the kitchen of Suan Sunandha Palace, the Princess presided over a peak era of culinary innovation until her passing on June 24, 1929. Reflecting her practicality, the Princess’ recipes frequently incorporated the era’s common pantry ingredients in new and surprising combinations. For example, in her boat-embarking chili relish (น้ำพริกลงเรือ; naam phrik lohng reuua), a relish still enjoyed today, the Princess pairs fermented shrimp paste chili relish with sweet pork, crispy fried fish, salted duck eggs and hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก). Another example is her gaaeng ran juaan (แกงรัญจวน) – the Princess prepares a vibrant spicy and sour soup, fragrant with the aroma of Thai basil, from the leftovers of a stir-fried beef dish and fermented shrimp paste chili relish, which she cooked together with lemongrass, shallots and garlic. Mom Chao Sai Ladawan’s recipes, many already recreated here at Thaifoodmaster, were recorded by Princess Sadap Ladawan (เจ้าจอมหม่อมราชวงศ์สดับลดาวัลย์), a key figure in the Palace’s culinary affairs, and subsequently compiled and published by Suan Sunandha Rajabhat University in a volume dedicated to seasoned rice dishes and chili relishes. In this dish called khaao graawp (ข้าวกรอบ), or “crispy rice” the Princess seasons cooked jasmine rice with chili jam, and adds four fried components, each highlighting a different element of the crispiness indicated by the dish’s name.

Dry-Fried Salted Spanish Mackerel Relish (ปลาอินทรีคั่ว; bplaa in see khuaa)

Bplaa in see khuaa — grilled salted mackerel pounded with seven aromatics, fried in roasted coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Golden Chestnut Fried Rice with Mint and Tomato (ข้าวผัดกาหรี่; khaao phat garee), circa 1935

Dating from the early 1900s, this tempting fried rice dish highlights how the Siamese aristocracy savored their golden rice, perfumed with an alluring blend of imported spices. The dish can be enjoyed on its own or as part of a larger meal featuring curries and soups.

Jatturaphan Dumplings — Bird Egg-Shaped Dumplings in Four Complexions (ไข่นกจัตุรพรรณ; khai nohk jat dtoo phan)

Bird's Egg Jatturaphan: tapioca dumplings with salted egg yolk centers in four natural colors, served in chicken broth. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 royal court cuisine cookbook.

Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)

Miiang naaem bplaa, grilled snakehead fish with fire-roasted galangal juice and bitter orange, served in lettuce cups. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Heavenly Beef (เนื้อทิพย์; neuua thip)

Neuua thip, beef rump stir-fried in thick coconut milk with Indian turmeric, served on cabbage with a chili dipping sauce. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Rice Seasoned with Shrimp Paste
(khaao khlook gabpi ; ข้าวคลุกกะปิ)

สูตรทำข้าวคลุกกะปิของ หม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล - Rice Seasoned with Shrimp Paste Recipe - Each of the dish’s components is separately prepared and set aside, and mixed individually for each serving. A pleasant harmony of several flavors is created – complex and profound in taste, the dish is a stunning display of confidence. There are many variations of this dish: I have chosen to publish the version described by Prince Johngjit thanaawm Disagoon. This is the very same version prepared for King Chulalongkorn the Great during his unforgettable trip to Italy.

"Beautiful curry" – Clear Soup of Beef and Salted, Pickled Chinese Plum (แกงหงษา ; gaaeng hohng saa)

Phra Ram Long Song (Phra Ram Bathing) (พระรามลงสรง; phra raam long song)

Phra Ram Long Song, beef and morning glory blanched in stock over a tableside charcoal brazier, with coconut curry sauce. From Puang Bunnag, 1931.

grilled-banana-leaf-parcels-with-chicken-fried-rice

Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with butter-fried rice with chicken, chicken offal and dried spices, served with a sour-sweet coconut-base vegetable relish (ข้าวงบไก่ อาจาดอังวะ ; khaao ngohp gai aajaat angwa)

The khaao ngohp gai (ข้าวงบไก่) recipe by Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) evokes the flavor and aesthetics of Muslim-style cooking. First, cooked rice, chicken, and chicken offal are fried with butter and perfumed with whole spices. The buttery fried rice is wrapped in banana leaves and then grilled, forming a crispy outer crust of spiced-infused rice grains.

Sour Soup with Jullien's Golden Carp (แกงต้มส้มปลายี่สก; gaaeng dtohm sohm bplaa yee sohk)

Gaaeng dtohm sohm bplaa yee sohk, a tamarind-ginger broth with Jullien's golden carp and pureed Bronze featherback. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Fresh Shrimp Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)

FShrimp Tom Bproong Soht Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)

Gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht: grilled shrimp with green mango and pickled garlic, seasoned at the bowl. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Date Palm in Coconut Milk (อินทผาลัมน้ำกะทิ; in tpha lam naam ga thi)

In tpha lam naam ga thi, date palm hand-torn and served in freshly pressed coconut milk, lightly salted. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

c1941 Roasted Duck Curry with Grapes (Gaaeng Ho) (แกงเป็ดเหาะใส่องุ่น อย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484; gaaeng bpet haw sai angoon)

Grapes have long been associated with prosperity, fertility and abundance across various cultures and historical periods due to the fruit’s large clusters and bountiful growth. In ancient China, grapes were considered a symbol of wealth and nobility, and often deployed as a status symbol among the elite. In Greek mythology, Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility, was often depicted holding a bunch of grapes, further emphasizing the connection between grapes and abundance. This association is also likely rooted in the fact that grapes were a valuable crop in antiquity – used to produce wine and other fermented products, and an important source of food and nutrition. In Indian Ayurvedic texts, grapes are referred to as vineaksha and utilized in treating a variety of ailments, including fever and indigestion. From the Siamese perspective, the incorporation of fruits in culinary preparations was viewed as a luxurious indulgence, as many fruits commonly available today were once difficult to obtain. Thus the pairing of an extravagant ingredient – such as fruit – with an equally opulent and exclusive delicacy like roasted duck resulted in a dish fit for royalty.

Stuffed Whole Chicken (ไก่สำเร็จ; gai sam ret)

Gai sam ret, whole chicken deboned through the neck, stuffed with pork, shiitake and lotus seeds, glazed with Maggi. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Miiang Kha Nohm Laeh Lai (เมี่ยงขนมเลไลย; miiang kha nohm laeh lai)

Miiang kha nohm laeh lai, split sweets topped with boiled prawn and pork fat, with a sour tomalley dressing. From Mrs. Paan Nanthaaphiwat, 1953.

c1937 Shrimp and tomato curry (แกงกุ้งกับมะเขือเทศ คู่มือการครัว นางสาวฉลวย กันตวรรณี พ.ศ. 2480; gaaeng goong gap makheuua thaeht)

Stocked with a contemporary brew of umami-rich ingredients, this ancient, bright and slightly sour coconut-based shrimp and tomato curry demonstrates how simple – yet clever – flavor-layering techniques can spotlight the shrimp and the spectacular savory tomatoes over the curry background.

Chicken and Tomato Curry (แกงไก่กับมะเขือเทศ; gaaeng gai gap ma kheuua thaeht)

Gaaeng gai gap ma kheuua thaeht: tomatoes cored and stuffed with pounded chicken neck and corn, simmered in bone stock. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Steamed Shrimp Curry Parcels (ห่อหมกกุ้ง; haaw mohk goong)

Haaw mohk goong — giant freshwater prawns in fish haw mok paste, bound with one egg before wrapping and steaming. Lady Gleep, 1949.

Taro Custard (สังขยาเผือก; sang kha yaa pheuuak)

Sang kha yaa pheuuak, a steamed coconut cream custard with mold-pressed taro slices, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.

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