c1908 Fermented rice noodles and golden coconut chicken sauce with an Indian flair (ขนมจีนแขก หรือ ไก่ต้มขนมจีน ; khanohm jeen khaaek)
Seasoned Chicken Tongue Relish (ลิ้นระกาปรุง; lin ra gaa bproong)
Seasoned Chicken Tongue Relish (ลิ้นระกาปรุง; lin ra gaa bproong)
Lin ra gaa bproong, pounded chicken tongue relish with ruaan shrimp and ginger, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.
Stir-Fried Gao Lao Buut (ผัดเกาเหลาบูด; phat gao lao buut)
Stir-Fried Gao Lao Buut (ผัดเกาเหลาบูด; phat gao lao buut)
Phat gao lao buut, chicken offal and pork belly stir-fried in rendered pork fat, sweet-sour seasoned. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1951.
peanut-bar-salad
c1933 Sour bilimbi fruit and crispy candied peanut salad with pork, shrimp and pork fat (ยำตะลิงปลิง ; yam dtaling bpling)
A candied peanut bar might be considered an unlikely ingredient for an old-fashioned Siamese-style salad. Yet, peanut bars were familiar to the Siamese as early as the Ayutthaya period and were part of a broader set of Teochew Chinese sweets called, in Thai, “khanohm janap (ขนมจันอับ)”.
Grilled banana leaf parcels with shrimp curried rice (ข้าวงบกุ้ง)
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with curried rice, shrimp meat grated coconut, and herbs. (ข้าวงบกุ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์ ; khaao ngohp goong)
The khaao ngohp goong (ข้าวงบกุ้ง) of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) is a dish of seasoned curried rice mixed with shrimp meat, shrimp tomalley, grated coconut, and herbs. The rice mix is then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals an intense orange- and russet-brown colored rice cake that is rich, savory and naturally sweet. It is served with a drizzle of thickened coconut cream and herbs.
Tamarind flesh chili relish
Tamarind flesh chili relish (น้ำพริกส้มมะขามเปียก; naam phrik sohm ma khaam bpiiak)
Shrimp Ball Soup (แกงลูกชิ้นกุ้ง; gaaeng luuk chin goong)
Shrimp Ball Soup (แกงลูกชิ้นกุ้ง; gaaeng luuk chin goong)
Gaaeng luuk chin goong, shrimp balls pounded and slapped for springy texture in clear broth with garland chrysanthemum. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Rose-petal-salad ; ยำกลีบกุพชกะ
Rose Petals Salad (ยำกลีบกุพชกะ ; yam gleep goop cha ga)
Chef Thapakorn Lertviriyavit (Gorn) brings us a rare perfumed and colorful starter [salad] dish that was rediscovered in a cookbook written by a former governor of Nakhon Ratchasima (พระยานครราชเสนี - สหัด สิงหเสนี), which contained a recipe that called for rose petals, called ‘Yum Gularb' or ‘Rose Petal Salad'. But I'd prefer to rename it, ‘Yum Gleep Kuppatchka'. You will soon understand why....
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip, chicken curry with young shatavari fruit; paste fried in rendered coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Fish Dumplings (เกี้ยวมัสยา; giaao mat sayaa)
Fish Dumplings (เกี้ยวมัสยา; giaao mat sayaa)
Fish Dumplings (giaao mat sayaa) featuring fish-shaped wrappers with salted egg yolk eyes served in broth. From Jeeb Bunnag's royal Thai cookbook, 1945.
Gaaeng Jao Dtao – An Aristocratic Sour Curry of Catfish with Young Tamarind Leaves, Fingerroot and Lemon Basil, with a Rustic Flare (แกงเจ้าเต่า)
Pork Liver Salad with Lemongrass (ยำตับหมูกับตะไคร้; yam dtap muu gap dta khrai)
Pork Liver Salad with Lemongrass (ยำตับหมูกับตะไคร้; yam dtap muu gap dta khrai)
Pork liver salad with lemongrass from Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript. Multiple blanching removes gaminess before mixing with aromatic lemongrass, toasted coconut, and peanuts.
quail curry
Curry of yellow chilies with whole quail, fresh turmeric and lemon basil (แกงเผ็ดนกกระทาพริกเหลืองสด; gaaeng phet nohk grathaa phrik leuuang soht)
Salty leading and sour-sweet to follow, this coconut-based gaaeng phet spicy curry might be made of chilies, but it is fruitier than it is spicy, and lighter than it is dense. Originally cooked with the meat of game birds, it retains a surprisingly light body that opens space for the birds to fly. The curry is tinted golden orange from a paste imbued with fresh yellow chilies and turmeric; it is perfumed with lemongrass and lemon basil leaves.
Pan Roasted Duck Breast and Hairy-Fruited Eggplant Curry (แกงเป็ดคั่วมะอึก; gaaeng bpet khuaa maeuk)
The hairy-fruited eggplant, known as ‘maeuk’ in Thai, is similar to the tomato in its unique confluence of sweetness, fruitiness, and savoriness. This ingredient is used in a wide range of Siamese dishes, including curries, salads, relishes, and seasoned rice dishes. This recipe, from the central region of Thailand, is a traditional duck khuaa sohm curry (แกงคั่วส้มเป็ด) that commonly uses garden ingredients to achieve sourness, including the madan (garcinia schomburgkiana) (มะดัน), the sour bilimbi fruit (averrhoa bilimbi) (ตะลิงปลิง), and the hairy-fruited eggplant.
Trinarong salad with ruby pomegranate seeds, translucent pomelo segments, and golden fried shallots glistening with lime dressing on a white plate
c1935 Trinarong Salad - Thai Three-Fruit Yam from Pathum Thani (ยำตรีณรงค์; yam dtreen rohng)
Central-style Thai salad combining pomelo, rose apple, and pomegranate with shrimp, chicken, and pork. From Ms. Booree Thohnsak's 1935 Pathum Thani memorial cookbook.
“Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain” Fermented Rice Noodles by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (ขนมจีนครามแดง อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)
chal sohm sour curry
Chak sohm sour curry (gaaeng chak sohm ; แกงชักส้มปลาช่อน)
Beef Phanaaeng Curry - พะแนงเนื้อ
Beef Phanaeng Curry and Ancient Grilled Phanaeng Chicken Curry (พะแนงเนื้อ และ ไก่ผะแนง จากตำราอาหารที่เก่าสุดในสยาม)
Breaking news: The oldest Thai cookbook, as well as history’s first-ever recorded recipe for Phanaeng curry, are revealed for the first time on Thaifoodmaster.com - A 126-year-old cookbook written by one of Siam’s most revered singers, Maawm Sohm Jeen (Raa Chaa Noopraphan) (หม่อมซ่มจีน, ราชานุประพันธุ์), has been rediscovered, offering a unique glimpse into the culinary repertoire of 19th-century Siam. In this chapter we examine the different forms of phanaeng curry from the 1800s to the present day, as we reconstruct the 19th-century version and craft step-by-step a traditional beef phanaeng curry.
น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; Naam phrik lohng reuua
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish - (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) - Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
Clear Duck Soup with Straw Mushrooms, Another Method (แกงจืดเป็ดปะจิต อีกวิธี ๑; gaaeng jeuut bpet bpa jit eek wi thee neung)
Clear Duck Soup with Straw Mushrooms, Another Method (แกงจืดเป็ดปะจิต อีกวิธี ๑; gaaeng jeuut bpet bpa jit eek wi thee neung)
Gaeng jeuut bpet bpa jit — deboned duck simmered in stock with straw mushrooms and split spring onions. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
lohn
Fermented fish lohn relish (ปลาร้าหลน ; bplaa raa lohn)
Similar preparations of fermented fish lohn were likely enjoyed throughout the Central Plains, both in higher and common vernacular cuisines.
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