Jatturaphan Dumplings — Bird Egg-Shaped Dumplings in Four Complexions (ไข่นกจัตุรพรรณ; khai nohk jat dtoo phan)
Jatturaphan Dumplings — Bird Egg-Shaped Dumplings in Four Complexions (ไข่นกจัตุรพรรณ; khai nohk jat dtoo phan)
Bird's Egg Jatturaphan: tapioca dumplings with salted egg yolk centers in four natural colors, served in chicken broth. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 royal court cuisine cookbook.
น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; Naam phrik lohng reuua
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish - (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) - Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
Siamese salads
Thai Salads, The Professional Chef's Guide เรื่องยำๆ
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Khaao griiap soht wi saeht: rice porridge spread thin on a khanom khrok griddle, filled with minced prawn and kaffir lime. Gingganok, 1935.
Red Pickled Anchovies with Seasonings (ปลาแดงทรงเครื่อง; bplaa daaeng sohng khreuuang)
Red Pickled Anchovies with Seasonings (ปลาแดงทรงเครื่อง; bplaa daaeng sohng khreuuang)
Fermented anchovy relish with dual citrus, grilled shrimp, and salt-worked ginger served with raw vegetables and fried catfish. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
shrimp-cucumber-curry
c1889 Garee Curry with Shrimp and Cucumber (แกงกะหรี่กุ้งกับแตงกวา; gaaeng garee goong gap dtaaeng gwaa)
In this old-fashioned coconut-based curry, orangey shrimp and bright green cucumber shine in a golden haze of curry powder, caressed by the light breeze of Indian flare. Cucumbers are used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine as a coolant, to offset internal heat and to resolve fevers. Thus, like a refreshing oasis in the middle of a shimmering desert, the cucumber counterbalances the chili’s internal heat energy and mellows the fragrant, earthy undertones of the spice blend in the dish.
gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน)
Gaaeng Raawn (แกงร้อน)
Gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) is a colloquial Thai term that refers to ‘hot curry’. Today, gaaeng raawn is used to denote soups or curries served with steamed rice. While the precise origin of the term is unclear, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was deployed in the 1800s for a specific dish – a Siamese soup featuring glass noodles, cooked as either a coconut or a water-based soup with an assortment of dry ingredients revered in Chinese cuisine. The soup’s potential health benefits, combined with its ease of preparation and subtle yet profound flavor, made it a popular choice for entertaining large groups of people, of all ages and backgrounds. The soup is often augmented with fresh proteins: in its more luxurious versions, multiple proteins may be added, including a combination of chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, and crab meat. Thus, over the years, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was established as a staple source of comfort and warmth for people of all walks of life in Siamese society.
Gaawy goong suay (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย)
Gaawy goong suay (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย) - Old-fashioned chili relish enriched with shrimp tomalley and flaky acid-cooked shrimp meat
แกงรัญจวน ; gaaeng_ranjuaan
Beef Curry Seasoned with Fermented Shrimp Paste Chili Relish (แกงรัญจวน ; gaaeng ranjuaan)
Gaaeng Ranjuaan is spicy, sour, sweet and salty beef curry seasoned with no more than fermented shrimp paste chili sauce. It should be served steaming hot, and must possess three distinct flavors, similar to fish Tom Yam soup. These modest ingredients and an intensely-flavored curry emerge from a story about love, things lost in translation and…leftovers.
Slow-Braised Pork Belly with Chinese Daylily Flower (แกงต้มหมูหอง; gaaeng dtohm muu haawng)
Slow-Braised Pork Belly with Chinese Daylily Flower (แกงต้มหมูหอง; gaaeng dtohm muu haawng)
Gaaeng dtohm muu haawng, pork belly slow-braised with Chinese daylily flower, star anise and tao chiao paste. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.
The Three Kings Curry
The Three Kings Curry (แกงเผ็ดสามกษัตริย์ ; gaaeng phet saam gasat)
Matsya Avatara (The Fish Incarnation) (มัสยาวตาร; mat saya aa waa dtaan)
Matsya Avatara (The Fish Incarnation) (มัสยาวตาร; mat saya aa waa dtaan)
Matsya Avatara: deboned whole red snapper filled with a roasted seven-spice paste, steamed in banana leaf, then fried golden. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Modified Roasted Shrimp Paste Relish (แปลงกะปิคั่ว; bplaaeng ga bpi khuaa)
Modified Roasted Shrimp Paste Relish (แปลงกะปิคั่ว; bplaaeng ga bpi khuaa)
Bplaaeng ga bpi khuaa: shrimp paste relish with salted black olive and smoke-dried fish, fried in broken coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
roselle salad
c1890 Fresh roselle salad with acid-cured shrimp (ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรณ์วงศ์ ร.ศ.๑๐๘ ; yam phohn gra jiiap;)
Vegetable Broth with Fried Bread Croutons (ชุบผักกับขนมปังทอด; choop phak gap khanohm bpang thaawt)
Vegetable Broth with Fried Bread Croutons (ชุบผักกับขนมปังทอด; choop phak gap khanohm bpang thaawt)
Choop phak gap khanohm bpang thaawt, six vegetables simmered and strained to a clear umami broth, topped with fried croutons. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Yam of Beef Innards (ยำเครื่องในโค; yam khreuuang nai kho:h)
Yam of Beef Innards (ยำเครื่องในโค; yam khreuuang nai kho:h)
Yam khreuuang nai kho:h, beef innards cleaned with slaked lime and dressed without coconut. From Maawm Sohm Jeen's Tamra Gap Khao, c. 1890.
naam phrik roy rot
Pickled bean curd chili relish (น้ำพริกเต้าหู้ยี้; naam phrik dtao huu yee)
Spicy Swamp Eel Curry (แกงเผ็ดปลาไหล; gaaeng phet bplaa lai)
Spicy Swamp Eel Curry (แกงเผ็ดปลาไหล; gaaeng phet bplaa lai)
Gaaeng phet bplaa lai: swamp eel sliced and tossed with its own blood, simmered in a pork-lard-fried red curry paste. Maawm Sohm Jeen, 1890.
Relish of Fermented Fish, Grilled Catfish, Pork and Shrimp ; ปลาร้าสับทรงเครื่องสูตรสายเยาวภา
Thai Relish of Fermented Fish, Grilled Catfish, Pork and Shrimp (ปลาร้าผัดทรงเครื่องสูตรสายเยาวภา ; bplaa raa phat sohng khreuuang, suut saai yao wa phaa)
Fish fermentation consists of a simple salt-curing process: mixing or coating a whole fish, sliced fish or minced fish meat with salt and rice husks (or ground roasted rice). The mixture is then allowed to rest and ferment for few months. This fermentation process creates deep, intense umami flavor agents accompanied by a strong stench. It is only with culinary sagacity and skill that cooks are able to harness and direct these powerful flavors within the context of an appetizing dish, and to constrain the odor to an agreeable intensity.
kaffir_lime_fried_chili_relish
Fried Kaffir Lime Chili Relish (น้ำพริกมะกรูดผัด ; naam phrik magruut phat)
Dry-Fried Salted Spanish Mackerel Relish (ปลาอินทรีคั่ว; bplaa in see khuaa)
Dry-Fried Salted Spanish Mackerel Relish (ปลาอินทรีคั่ว; bplaa in see khuaa)
Bplaa in see khuaa — grilled salted mackerel pounded with seven aromatics, fried in roasted coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
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