The Art of Siamese Duck Curries - Theory and Practice (แกงเป็ด - ศิลปะ ทฤษฎี และ การปฏิบัติ)
Mild Soup of Barramundi and Lily Bulbs (แกงจืดปลากะพงแป๊ะฮะ; gaaeng jeuut bplaa ga phohng bpae ha)
Gaaeng jeuut with barramundi and lily bulbs soaked until petals open. Thai-Chinese clear soup from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.
Three-Color Vegetable Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดผักสามสี; khaao phat phak saam see)
Three-Color Vegetable Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดผักสามสี; khaao phat phak saam see)
Three-color vegetable fried rice with diced chicken, carrot, peas and radish, the beans boiled in ash water to stay green. From Paan Nanthaaphiwat, 1953.
Three-Color Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดสามสี; khaao phat saam see)
Three-Color Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดสามสี; khaao phat saam see)
Three-color fried rice: pork, shrimp and chicken rices seasoned with fish sauce, tomato sauce and curry powder, plated in sections. From Sai Yaowapa, 1935.
Three-Color Prawn Clear Soup with Carrot and Mock Pakchoi (แกงจืดกุ้งสามสี; gaaeng jeuut goong saam see)
Three-Color Prawn Clear Soup with Carrot and Mock Pakchoi (แกงจืดกุ้งสามสี; gaaeng jeuut goong saam see)
Three-color prawn clear soup: giant freshwater prawns and their pressed head fat added to long-simmered carrot and mock pakchoi. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
magical-beef-curry
c1941 Magical beef curry (แกงเนื้อวิเศษ พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng neuua wisaeht)
Goon Saa Lime-Cured Pork (กุญซ่า; goon saa)
Goon Saa Lime-Cured Pork (กุญซ่า; goon saa)
Goon saa: lean pork cured by lime juice and salt without fire, shredded and tossed with its own reduced pressing liquid. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Khaao griiap soht wi saeht: rice porridge spread thin on a khanom khrok griddle, filled with minced prawn and kaffir lime. Gingganok, 1935.
Clear Soup with Fish Balls (แกงจืดลูกชิ้นปลา; gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa)
Clear Soup with Fish Balls (แกงจืดลูกชิ้นปลา; gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa)
Gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa, clear soup with Bronze featherback fish balls pounded and slapped until sticky. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; Naam phrik lohng reuua
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish - (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) - Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
Emperor's Hong Te Rice Vermicelli (หมี่ฮ่องเต้; mee haawng dteh)
Emperor's Hong Te Rice Vermicelli (หมี่ฮ่องเต้; mee haawng dteh)
Emperor's Hong Te Rice Vermicelli, a royal Thai dish combining delicate shredded chicken and crab meat over rice noodles. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Chiang Mai-Style Chicken Gaaeng Garee (แกงเผ็ดกะหรี่เชียงใหม่ ; gaaeng phet garee chiang mai)
I discovered this unusual curry recipe hidden in a 1970 memorial book for Ms. Bootree Gralaksa. Born in Bangkok in 1898, Ms. Bootree spent her entire life, from childhood on, in a wooden house on Maha Chak Road (Pra Nakorn). One could say that she was born to be a great cook; just fourteen years old when her mother died, Ms. Bootree became the sole caregiver for her four siblings, a duty that she performed with a love and attention that endowed her with remarkable cooking skills. Her memorial book showcases now-forgotten dishes that were popular in the Bangkok of the early 1900s, such as Beautiful Curry (แกงหงษา ; Gaaeng Hohng Saa), and also includes some of her one-of-a-kind culinary creations – such as this dish, which she dubbed “Chiang Mai-Style Spicy Curry”.
Indian-Style Rice (ข้าวแขก; khaao khaaek)
Indian-Style Rice (ข้าวแขก; khaao khaaek)
Khaao khaaek: lightly salted soft rice under a turmeric-tinted, jasmine-scented coconut cream, twice as thick as the rice. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Sweet and Sour Stir-Fried Giant Female Freshwater Prawn (ผัดเปรี้ยวหวานนางกุ้ง; phat bpriaao waan naang goong)
Sweet and Sour Stir-Fried Giant Female Freshwater Prawn (ผัดเปรี้ยวหวานนางกุ้ง; phat bpriaao waan naang goong)
Phat bpriaao waan naang goong, giant female freshwater prawns steamed then stir-fried with a cassava flour sweet-sour glaze. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
stuffed-roasted-duck-breast-
Roasted Stuffed Duck Breast with Chestnuts and Mackerel (เป็ดยัดไส้เกาลัดรมควัน; bpet yat sai gaolat rohm khwan), circa 1935
Smoked duck stuffed with a mackerel and chestnut filling is a dish that defies cultural boundaries. An exemplar of blended culinary influences, featuring inviting colors and an elegant presentation that serve as a prelude to the complex flavors and textures that await, the dish is an eloquent testament to the cooking style of Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag, who went by the pen name “the granddaughter of Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa”). In the 1930s. Mrs. Jeep Bunnag published her first cookbook. Following in the footsteps of her revered grandmother-in-law, Lady Plean Passakornrawong, she continued to document the art of Siamese cuisine through the treasured books she published and was known for her ability to merge culinary traditions into beautiful and innovative dishes that represent an era. The rich, dark color of the smoked duck’s skin is visually striking and appetizing, evoking a sense of indulgence and luxury. The smoky flavors that permeate the meat reflect our deep connection to primal cooking techniques, a fascinating juxtaposition to the refined presentation of the dish. When the smoked duck is sliced, its succulent pink meat is revealed, surrounding the golden filling of chestnuts and mackerel.
naam-yaa-jeen
Naam Yaa Jeen - Fermented Rice Noodles with Chinese Sauce by HRH Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (น้ำยาจีน อย่างกรมหลวงพิทักษมนตรี)
Among the various curries that can be poured over khanom jeen fermented rice noodles, this broth, known as Chinese-style “naam yaa,” is unique in that it is a water-based curry that does not have chilies. As such, rather than the typical reddish-rust color of most coconut-based naam ya dishes from the Central Plains of the Kingdom, the sauce glows with a soft, light ivory hue, beautifully reflecting the dish’s natural sweet-savoriness, which is derived from slow-braising three proteins – chicken, pork and shrimp – along with a curry paste galvanized by smoke-dried fish and aromatic roots like galangal, fingerroot and sand ginger. The naam ya broth is served over a bed of fermented rice noodles and garnished with toppings such as delicate pulled chicken breast threads, golden-crispy fried shallots and garlic, and vivid green fresh coriander leaves and spring onion. All these elements add a visual grace and a hint of freshness to the robust broth – the signature dish of Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (กรมหลวงพิทักษ์มนตรี).
“Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain” Fermented Rice Noodles by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (ขนมจีนครามแดง อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)
Beautiful Rice (ข้าวโฉมงาม; khaao chohm ngaam)
Beautiful Rice (ข้าวโฉมงาม; khaao chohm ngaam)
Beautiful Rice, turmeric-infused rice with crab and chicken served in hollowed tomato cups. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 Thai cookbook.
lemongrass salad
Pomelo salad with salted shrimp and a lemongrass-infused coconut cream dressing (ยำส้มโอกุ้งเค็ม ; yam sohm o:h goong khem)
fish haaw mohk
Haaw mohk steamed savory curried fish cakes (ห่อหมกปลา ; haaw mohk bplaa)
This recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring clown featherback fish meat (เนื้อปลากราย) and slices of firm snakehead fish (ปลาช่อน). It is a classic recipe that follows the ancient haaw mohk tradition with a contemporary accent.
phrik Khing Phukam (พริกขิงภุกาม; phrik khing phoo gaam)
phrik Khing Phukam (พริกขิงภุกาม; phrik khing phoo gaam)
Phrik khing phukam, a crispy phrik khing (พริกขิง) of deep-fried smoke-dried fish and shrimp with lemongrass, bound in a fish sauce glaze. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
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