Aristocratic and Royal Thai Cuisines Archives

"Beautiful curry" – Clear Soup of Beef and Salted, Pickled Chinese Plum (แกงหงษา ; gaaeng hohng saa)

Pork Belly Coated with Salted-Fish and Green Mango Chili Relish (น้ำพริกมะม่วง หมูเคลือบเค็ม พ.ศ. 2476; naam phrik ma muaang mu khleuuap khem)

In this dish, slices of pork belly are coated with a sticky sauce; the sauce is reduced from braising a slice of grilled salted fish with coriander roots, garlic and white peppercorns (saam gluuhr). The dish is served with a sour-leading green mango chili relish that adds tartness with fiery accents to the saltiness of the pork. The salted fish gives the pork an initial fishy aroma that, although robust, gives way to a sense of home as it merges into the sourness and fruitiness of the mango chili relish. As an ingredient commonly used in the kitchens of rice-growing communities, salted fish signifies a comforting familiarity that conveys simplicity and warmth to the table. I like to pair the salted, fishy pork with seasoned rice dishes in which sour-leading relishes are mixed with rice along with other condiments.

Perfumed Braised Beef and Potato Curry with Three Gingers, Thai Basil and Bitter Orange (แกงเนื้อใส่เปราะหอมสดและส้มซ่า; Gaaeng Neuua Sai Bpraw Haawm Soht Lae Sohm Saa)

Discovered in a memorial book for the funeral of SubLt. Soophoht Jeungpraphaa (ร.ต. สุพจน์ จึงประภา) (1925-1966), this beef and potato curry dish unites two distinct curry styles: Massaman curry, known for its sweet and warming complexity of dry spices, punctuated by the vibrancy of bitter orange juice; and gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด) spicy curry, dominated by a basil herbal identity. The recipe maintains a sense of traditional elegance despite the startlingly unusual culinary fusion; as these two cooking styles are woven together, their spiced comfort, earthy warmth, citrusy freshness, and cool herbaceous notes meld in a gentle refinement. Drawing upon familiar and novel elements, this curry is both comforting and stimulating. Massaman curry typically presents as a deep, rich dish. Its unique flavor profile is derived predominantly from a range of dry spices that point to its Persian-inspired roots in Siamese cuisine, along with a curry paste that exudes a sense of freshness. The dried chilis are roasted to deepen their color; the rest of the ingredients, such as the shallots, garlic and dry spices, are roasted too, individually, before being pounded into the paste. Conversely, the gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด) curry integrates dry spices more sparingly and is known for flavor qualities that are based on a phrik khing (พริกขิง) paste made of fresh aromatics and a basil herbal identity.

Stir-Fried Gao Lao Buut (ผัดเกาเหลาบูด; phat gao lao buut)

Phat gao lao buut, chicken offal and pork belly stir-fried in rendered pork fat, sweet-sour seasoned. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1951.

Clear Soup with Fish Balls (แกงจืดลูกชิ้นปลา; gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa)

Gaaeng jeuut luuk chin bplaa, clear soup with Bronze featherback fish balls pounded and slapped until sticky. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Dtohm Jiu Beef Soup (แกงต้มจิ๋ว; gaaeng dtohm jiu)

Dtohm Jiu Beef Soup: sirloin simmered soft with sweet potato, soured with tamarind, finished with bird's eye chili and lime. Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.

Pork liver and firm pork fat fried in batter (มันสลับตับสุกร; man salap dtap soogaawn)

Chuu Chee Curry with Climbing Perch (แกงฉู่ฉี่ปลาหมอ; gaaeng chuu chee bplaa maaw)

Chuu chee curry with climbing perch — pan-fried fish in split coconut cream based chuu chee curry with kaffir lime leaves and coriander leaves. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.

Dressed Shrimp and Salt-Pressed Jellyfish (ยำกุ้งแท่; yam goong thaae)

Yam goong thaae, a royal Thai salad featuring shrimp and salt-cured jellyfish with multiple textures and proteins. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript.

Kaffir lime chili relish and vegetables blanched in pork lard (น้ำพริกมะกรูดกับผักตีน้ำมัน ; naam phrik magruut gap phak dtee naam man)

grilled-banana-leaf-parcels-with-chicken-fried-rice

Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with butter-fried rice with chicken, chicken offal and dried spices, served with a sour-sweet coconut-base vegetable relish (ข้าวงบไก่ อาจาดอังวะ ; khaao ngohp gai aajaat angwa)

The khaao ngohp gai (ข้าวงบไก่) recipe by Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) evokes the flavor and aesthetics of Muslim-style cooking. First, cooked rice, chicken, and chicken offal are fried with butter and perfumed with whole spices. The buttery fried rice is wrapped in banana leaves and then grilled, forming a crispy outer crust of spiced-infused rice grains.

Miang Sot (เมี่ยงซด) - Miiang Soht, circa 1928

The word ‘miang’ is often used to designate Thai hors d’oeuvre-like snacks consisting of various ingredients wrapped in leaves. To chew on a miang parcel delivers a delightful melee of flavors and textures, each triumphing over the other in a continuous transformation, creating a captivating and ever-evolving taste experience throughout the bite. Miang sot is a fermented leaves dish that appeared in a cookbook published in honor of Thao Suphatigaanapakdee (also known as Prik Sirisamphan) (ท้าวสุภัติการภักดี (ปริก ศิริสัมพันธ์)), in 1928. Titled Gap Khaao Thai (กับข้าวไทย), the book features a collection of recipes that were once prepared and served to King Chulalongkorn Rama V. The author, Sohmboon Sirisamphan (เถ้าแก่ สมบุญ ศิริสัมพันธ์) a respected elder (known as thao gaae (เถ้าแก่) in Thai), was a distinguished businessman of Chinese origins. The dish is composed of fermented tea leaves; it is perhaps the closest tea leaves wrap to the ‘miang’ style introduced to the Siamese court by Princess Dara Rasami in the late 1800s. The dish gives us a glimpse of flavor of what her household, which participated in the informal marketplace events within the palace, might have to offer. The popularity of miang in Siamese cuisine is tied to the history of two kingdoms, Siam and Lanna, and the life of one princess, Princess Dara Rasami. The daughter of King Inthawichayanon of Chiang Mai and the fifth consort of King Chulalongkorn, the princess was selected at the age of thirteen, in 1886, to serve as a consort to King Chulalongkorn in the Inner Palace; the decision was shaped by both political strategy and personal transition. At the time, Siam was consolidating its power and extending its influence over neighboring regions, including Lanna. As the ruler of Chiang Mai, Princess Dara Rasami’s father, Intawichayanon, viewed the move as a strategic alliance. In return, King Chulalongkorn presented him with the medal of the Order of Chula Chom Klao, which is the Siamese equivalent of a knighthood.

The Three Kings Curry (แกงเผ็ดสามกษัตริย์ ; gaaeng phet saam gasat)

Chak sohm sour curry (gaaeng chak sohm ; แกงชักส้มปลาช่อน)

Tasty Beef (เนื้ออร่อย ; neuua araawy)

Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut (ห่อหมกไก่มะพร้าวอ่อน; haaw mohk gai ma phraao aawn)

Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut, featuring chicken cooked inside a coconut shell with a curry base of unpeeled peanuts and fermented shrimp paste. From Gingganok's 1948.

Stir-fried Sheatfish with Phrik Khing Paste (ผัดพริกขิงเนื้ออ่อน; phat phrik khing neuua aawn)

Phat phrik khing neuua aawn: scored sheatfish deep-fried in lard, topped with dry-pounded phrik khing paste. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

c1936 Arabian noodles – Princess Maao Thongthaem’s Siamese-Orientalist fermented rice noodles light meal (ขนมจีนอาหรับ อย่าง เม้า ทองแถม; khanohm jeen aarap)

“Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain” Fermented Rice Noodles by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (ขนมจีนครามแดง อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)

Khanohm faawy or Khanohm handtraa A Forgotten Thai Dessert and Snack ขนมฝอย หรือ ขนมหันตรา

Known as Khanohm faawy (ขนมฝอย) or Khanohm handtraa, this sweet or savory packet can be a dessert or a snack. The dessert has a sweet filling of silky mung beans and a coconut marzipan-like paste, while the snack’s savory filling consists of shrimp and pork minced and seasoned with garlic, coriander root and white peppercorns. Each is theatrically wrapped in a striking nest of skillfully crafted duck’s egg thread.

Stir-Fried Wild Duck with Salted Duck Egg Dumpling and Mustard Greens (ผัดฟองวิหคโสภณ; phat faawng wi hohk so:h phohn)

Phat faawng wi hohk so:h phohn: wild duck stir-fried with ornamental salted egg yolk dumplings in naam khlook khlik sauce. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

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