Decorated Corn (ข้าวโพดประดับ; khaao pho:ht bpra dap)
Decorated Corn (ข้าวโพดประดับ; khaao pho:ht bpra dap)
Decorated Corn, a palace-style appetizer featuring spiced chicken molded around baby corn and adorned with kernels. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 Thai cookbook.
Siamese salads
Thai Salads, The Professional Chef's Guide เรื่องยำๆ
Sand Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวทราย; guay dtiaao saai)
Sand Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวทราย; guay dtiaao saai)
Sand Noodles (guay dtiaao saai), featuring rice noodles cut fine as sand with aromatic coconut chili relish. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
c1935 Stuffed Potatoes with Bitter Orange Fragrant Beef Gaaeng Garee (แกงกะหรี่บรรจุมัน ม.ล. เติบ กำภู ; gaaeng garee ban joo man)
In Anglo-Indian cuisine, potatoes were used liberally in the curries; alongside the favorite sour chutneys, curries were also accompanied by fried, baked, boiled or mashed potatoes. Although the potato gradually found its way into many iconic Indian dishes, and even into Siamese cuisine, the tuber never replaced the rice of South Asia, despite the intentions of both the British and East Indian company officials. In the 1935 book Sai Yaowapa (ตำรับสายเยาวภา), Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) reflects the Anglo-Indian style gaaeng garee in her composition of bitter orange-fragrant beef gaaeng garee, which she serves in individual bowls made of fried potatoes, per a recipe recorded by M.L. Terb Gamphu (ม.ล. เติบ กำภู) and M.R. Tuang Sanitwong (ม.ร.ว.เตื้อง สนิทวงศ์).
Sour Curry of Climbing Perch with Snap Beans (แกงส้มปลาหมอกับถั่วแขก; gaaeng sohm bplaa maaw gap thuaa khaaek)
Sour Curry of Climbing Perch with Snap Beans (แกงส้มปลาหมอกับถั่วแขก; gaaeng sohm bplaa maaw gap thuaa khaaek)
Gaaeng sohm bplaa maaw — tamarind-broth sour curry with poached climbing perch, fish flesh pounded into the paste. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
c1908 Fermented rice noodles and golden coconut chicken sauce with an Indian flair (ขนมจีนแขก หรือ ไก่ต้มขนมจีน ; khanohm jeen khaaek)
Heavenly Maidens Floating in Crystal Syrup (ลอยแก้วสาวสวรรค์; laawy gaaeo saao sa wan)
Heavenly Maidens Floating in Crystal Syrup (ลอยแก้วสาวสวรรค์; laawy gaaeo saao sa wan)
Laawy gaaeo saao sa wan, peeled grapes and cherries in vanilla-scented crystal syrup. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 palace cookbook.
Fresh Shrimp Chili Relish (น้ำพริกกุ้งสด; naam phrik goong soht)
Fresh Shrimp Chili Relish (น้ำพริกกุ้งสด; naam phrik goong soht)
Naam phrik goong soht, a pounded shrimp relish with Songkhla tomalley paste, hairy eggplant, and salacca. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Shorea Flower Curry (แกงพวงพยอม; gaaeng phuaang pha yaawm)
Shorea Flower Curry (แกงพวงพยอม; gaaeng phuaang pha yaawm)
Shorea Flower Curry, a rare royal Thai dish combining floral notes with dried fish and pork belly. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript 'Divine Dishes'.
Stir-Fried Crispy Rice Vermicelli (ผัดหมี่กรอบ; phat mee graawp)
Stir-Fried Crispy Rice Vermicelli (ผัดหมี่กรอบ; phat mee graawp)
Phat mee graawp, rice vermicelli fried crisp in pork lard, seasoned salty–sweet–sour, finished with slivered bitter orange. Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
Perplexing Mee Suaa (หมี่สั้วฉงน; mee suaa cha ngohn)
Perplexing Mee Suaa (หมี่สั้วฉงน; mee suaa cha ngohn)
Mee suaa cha ngohn: wheat noodle bundles bound with shrimp-corn paste, steamed, served in clear pork-crab broth. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
naam phrik roy rot
Pickled bean curd chili relish (น้ำพริกเต้าหู้ยี้; naam phrik dtao huu yee)
ไตปลาทรงเครื่อง ; Spicy Salad of Grilled Tiger Prawns, Mackerel, Lemongrass and Aromatics with Infused Fermented Fish Innards Dressing
Spicy Salad of Grilled Tiger Prawns, Mackerel, Lemongrass and Aromatics with Infused Fermented Fish Innards Dressing (ไตปลาทรงเครื่อง ; dtai bpla sohng khreuuang)
If we could strip away the spices, the seasonings, the vegetables and the herbs from savory dishes we could uncover their naked flavor profile core. There, we would encounter a strong savory-umami, sometimes coupled with other basic elements of smoke and fat. This flavor core is, for us humans, the sought-after taste of protein; our first sip of mother’s milk, and the primal experience of burned game meat on the fire. Today we would like to highlight a powerhouse for umami creation: the fermentation process. We will focus on fermented fish innards from southern Thailand (dtai bpla ไตปลา), one of about a dozen fermented products used in the country. We will show you how chefs for the capital’s elite, as early as or, before the reign of King Phra Phutthaloetla Naphalai (Rama II, 1767-1824), harnessed its wild nature and created a dish similar to what we present today - a salad with infused fermented fish innards dressing.
salted fish pork mango-relish
Pork Belly Coated with Salted-Fish and Green Mango Chili Relish (น้ำพริกมะม่วง หมูเคลือบเค็ม พ.ศ. 2476; naam phrik ma muaang mu khleuuap khem)
In this dish, slices of pork belly are coated with a sticky sauce; the sauce is reduced from braising a slice of grilled salted fish with coriander roots, garlic and white peppercorns (saam gluuhr). The dish is served with a sour-leading green mango chili relish that adds tartness with fiery accents to the saltiness of the pork. The salted fish gives the pork an initial fishy aroma that, although robust, gives way to a sense of home as it merges into the sourness and fruitiness of the mango chili relish. As an ingredient commonly used in the kitchens of rice-growing communities, salted fish signifies a comforting familiarity that conveys simplicity and warmth to the table. I like to pair the salted, fishy pork with seasoned rice dishes in which sour-leading relishes are mixed with rice along with other condiments.
น้ำพริกนครบาล
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.   However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
roselle salad
c1890 Fresh roselle salad with acid-cured shrimp (ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรณ์วงศ์ ร.ศ.๑๐๘ ; yam phohn gra jiiap;)
magical-beef-curry
c1941 Magical beef curry (แกงเนื้อวิเศษ พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng neuua wisaeht)
Three Companions Fish Salad (พล่าปลาสามเกลอ; phlaa bplaa saam gluuhr)
Three Companions Fish Salad (พล่าปลาสามเกลอ; phlaa bplaa saam gluuhr)
Phlaa bplaa saam gluuhr: three grilled fish — smoke-dried, dried, and snakeskin gourami — with a tableside herb dressing. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Chicken Satay (สะเต๊ะไก่; sa dteh gai)
Chicken Satay (สะเต๊ะไก่; sa dteh gai)
Sa dteh gai: chicken on sugarcane skewers with bacon, basted with cream and breadcrumbs, served with a stewed-apple dip. Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.
naam phrik roy rot
Fermented shrimp paste relish with grilled pea eggplants (น้ำพริกมะเขือพวง ; naam phrik ma kheuua phuaang)
Yam "Goliath Special" (ยำ "โกไลพิเศษ"; yam go:h lai phi saeht)
Yam "Goliath Special" (ยำ "โกไลพิเศษ"; yam go:h lai phi saeht)
Yam Goliath Special: eight boiled proteins — shrimp, pork, squid — dressed with pounded coriander root and garlic. Delicious Side Dishes, 1935.
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