In today’s Thai food jargon, roasted chili paste is a mash-up of what were once two very distinct items: roasted chili paste (nam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา) and fried chili paste (nam phrik phat; น้ำพริกผัด). The former, and the older of the two, is produced by roasting all the ingredients; the latter by frying each ingredient individually.
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Maawm Sohm Jeen’s roasted chili jam for salads consisted of dried chilies (5 pieces), shallots (18.75g) (5 saleung), garlic (15g) (1 baht), fermented shrimp paste (kapi) (7.5g) (2 saleung), coriander roots (3.75g) (1 saleung) and salt (1.88g) (1 feuang). All the ingredients were roasted, except the coriander roots, and then pounded together in a mortar and pestle into a fine paste.
The paste was simply seasoned with salt and used as part of Maawm Sohm Jeen’s salad seasoning dressing, which was further seasoned with fish sauce, sugar, lime juice or tamarind paste to a mildly spicy, mellow, three-flavor profile of sour leading, salty to follow, with a sweetness further rounded by the silkiness, creaminess, richness and natural sweetness of the coconut cream.
Not all of Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s salad dressings included roasted chili jam. In her recipe for pork skin salad (yam nang muu; ยำหนังหมู) she offers a glimpse of her roasted chili jam version, which included dried chilies (15g) (1 baht), shallots (7.5g) (2 saleung), garlic (11.25g) (3 saleung), coriander roots (3.75g) (1 saleung) and salt (1.88g) (1 feuang).
As an alternative to roasted chili jam, Lady Plean suggests using naam phrik laao (น้ำพริกลาว).
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Ingredients
- 15 pieces dried red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแห้ง)
- 10 pieces shallots (หอมแดง) roasted
- 1/2 cup Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) roasted
- 1 tablespoon fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ) grilled
- 6 pieces coriander roots (รากผักชี)
- 1/2 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 3 tablespoons fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 6 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 2 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
Instructions
- Char-grill the dry chilies, fermented shrimp paste, unpeeled shallots and garlic.
- Peel the shallots and clean the coriander roots.
- Pound with salt all the ingredients to a consistent paste.
- Season with fish sauce, lime juice and palm sugar.
- Serve as a dipping sauce
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Thai Chili Jam – This is a chili jam similar to what is commonly sold under the name of roasted chili paste (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา). It is widely used as a condiment in salad dressings, soups, and seasoning for stir-fried dishes. I like to have control over my pantry ingredients, so I always use homemade naam phrik phao. Furthermore, since it is a basic ingredient used in so many dishes, anything less than the best will drastically impair the quality of your dishes.
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish – (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
An Ancient Siamese Recipe for Tom Kha Pet (1890 AD) Duck Simmered in Light Coconut Cream and Young Galangal, and Served with Sour-Sweet Roasted Chili Jam
(Tom Kha Bpet; ต้มข่าเป็ด จิ้มน้ำพริกเผาแบบโบราณ)
Tom kha is a well-known and much-loved Thai soup: a creamy, soothing coconut blend, a warm, silky broth in which chicken, mainly, is simmered with young galangal, mushrooms, and, at times, charred-grilled banana blossoms. In other versions, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves are added, blurring the boundaries between tom kha and the coconut-based tom yam soup (tom yum kati; ต้มยำกะทิ).
However, in the late 19th century, tom kha was not a soup at all: it was a dish of chicken or duck simmered in a light coconut broth with a generous amount of galangal. The coconut broth added sweetness to the meat, and the galangal helped to mellow the meat odor. It was then served with a basic roasted chili jam as a dipping relish seasoned along the salty-sour-sweet spectrum.
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.
However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
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