In today’s Thai food jargon, roasted chili paste is a mash-up of what were once two very distinct items: roasted chili paste (nam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา) and fried chili paste (nam phrik phat; น้ำพริกผัด). The former, and the older of the two, is produced by roasting all the ingredients; the latter by frying each ingredient individually.
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Maawm Sohm Jeen’s roasted chili jam for salads consisted of dried chilies (5 pieces), shallots (18.75g) (5 saleung), garlic (15g) (1 baht), fermented shrimp paste (kapi) (7.5g) (2 saleung), coriander roots (3.75g) (1 saleung) and salt (1.88g) (1 feuang). All the ingredients were roasted, except the coriander roots, and then pounded together in a mortar and pestle into a fine paste.
The paste was simply seasoned with salt and used as part of Maawm Sohm Jeen’s salad seasoning dressing, which was further seasoned with fish sauce, sugar, lime juice or tamarind paste to a mildly spicy, mellow, three-flavor profile of sour leading, salty to follow, with a sweetness further rounded by the silkiness, creaminess, richness and natural sweetness of the coconut cream.
Not all of Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s salad dressings included roasted chili jam. In her recipe for pork skin salad (yam nang muu; ยำหนังหมู) she offers a glimpse of her roasted chili jam version, which included dried chilies (15g) (1 baht), shallots (7.5g) (2 saleung), garlic (11.25g) (3 saleung), coriander roots (3.75g) (1 saleung) and salt (1.88g) (1 feuang).
As an alternative to roasted chili jam, Lady Plean suggests using naam phrik laao (น้ำพริกลาว).
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Ingredients
- 15 pieces dried red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแห้ง)
- 10 pieces shallots (หอมแดง) roasted
- 1/2 cup Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) roasted
- 1 tablespoon fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ) grilled
- 6 pieces coriander roots (รากผักชี)
- 1/2 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 3 tablespoons fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 6 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 2 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
Instructions
- Char-grill the dry chilies, fermented shrimp paste, unpeeled shallots and garlic.
- Peel the shallots and clean the coriander roots.
- Pound with salt all the ingredients to a consistent paste.
- Season with fish sauce, lime juice and palm sugar.
- Serve as a dipping sauce
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish – (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
An Ancient Siamese Recipe for Tom Yum Soup (First Published in 1890). Sour Spicy Tom Yum Soup with Snakehead Fish, Roasted Chili Jam and Green Mango (Dtohm Yam Bplaa Chaawn, ต้มยำปลาช่อนแบบโบราณ อย่างหม่อมซ่มจีน ราชานุประพันธุ์ ร.ศ.๑๐๙)
Tom yum soup from the late 19th-century Siam to present days. Including a step-by-step recreation of tom yum soup with snakehead fish (dtohm yam bplaa chaawn, ตัมยำปลาช่อน) as recorded by Maawm Sohm Jeen (Raa Chaa Noopraphan) (หม่อมซ่มจีน, ราชานุประพันธุ์) in her book “Tam Raa Gap Khao” (ตำรากับเข้า), published in 1890 (2433 BE, 109RE).
Fermented Rice Noodles Served with Pineapple, Fish Balls in Coconut Milk, Grilled Curried Fish Cakes, Young Ginger and Dry Shrimp Powder
(ขนมจีนซาวน้ำ ; khanohm jeen saao naam )
For the khanohm jeen saao naam version that we present today, we turn again to the writing of Thanpuying (Lady) Gleep Mahithaawn for her unique take on the dish. Her version is quite similar to the common recipe encountered nowadays, but Lady Gleep enhances it with more ingredients, elevating the dish yet another notch to the level of a majestic masterpiece.
Thai Chili Jam – This is a chili jam similar to what is commonly sold under the name of roasted chili paste (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา). It is widely used as a condiment in salad dressings, soups, and seasoning for stir-fried dishes. I like to have control over my pantry ingredients, so I always use homemade naam phrik phao. Furthermore, since it is a basic ingredient used in so many dishes, anything less than the best will drastically impair the quality of your dishes.
Fermented Rice Noodles, Shrimp and Pork Appetizer Dressed with Fried Chili Jam and Peanuts
(ขนมจีนญี่ปุ่น; Khanohm jeen Yee Poon)
Khanohm jeen yee poon is an appetizer consisting of a small roll of fermented rice noodles laid on a green lettuce leaf and topped with a slice of cucumber and cooked shrimp and pork belly, dressed with sour-sweet and salty fried chili jam, sprinkled with roasted peanuts and decorated with coriander leaf and a thin julienne of fresh red chili pepper. A squeeze of fresh lime juice is applied just before eating the dish.
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