Traditional Recipes Archives

Old Fashioned Lemongrass and Chili Relish (naam phrik dtakhrai ; สูตรทำน้ำพริกตะไคร้)

Lemongrass chili relish - The citrus aromatics of the lemongrass are preserved almost intact and go very well with the peppery aroma of pungent fresh chilies. It is served with a range of blanched vegetables, steamed or fried fish, sweet pork and of course, a bowl of rice - a balanced meal, full of nutrients and health.

Haaw mohk steamed savory curried fish cakes (ห่อหมกปลา ; haaw mohk bplaa)

This recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring clown featherback fish meat (เนื้อปลากราย) and slices of firm snakehead fish (ปลาช่อน). It is a classic recipe that follows the ancient haaw mohk tradition with a contemporary accent.

Grilled Eggplant Lohn Relish with Shrimp (หลนมะเขือเผากุ้งสด; Lohn Ma Kheuua Phao Goong Soht)

Lohn relish of grilled eggplant (หลนมะเขือเผากุ้งสด) captivates with its subtle contrasts and complex layering of flavors. Central to this dish is grilled eggplant, which is known for its inherent bitterness due to phenolic compounds like chlorogenic acid. However, this bitterness succumbs to a delightful transformation when the eggplant is simmered in coconut cream. The fats and sugars in the coconut cream effectively mask these bitter notes, resulting in a deep, satisfying savory relish that is both well-balanced and rounded. Accompanying the eggplant are roasted shallots and garnet-blushed grilled tomatoes. The grilled tomatoes not only add natural sweetness and brightness to the dish, but also contribute to its visual charm via their muted orangey reds. This color palette complements the eggplant’s earthy, slightly sweet taste, represented through rich, velvety white-green hues. The interplay of colors in the dish mirror the complexity of its flavors. The minced shrimp meat introduces a briny sweetness and a contrasting texture. The relish is seasoned to a sour-sweet leading salty to follow flavor profile, enhancing the smoky sweetness imparted by the grilled ingredients and creating a palette of flavor and color that is as attractive as it is delicious.

Santol Curry (แกงสะท้อน; gaaeng sa thaawn)

Gaeng sa thaawn, a santol-soured curry of chicken and pork belly in bone stock, finished with prawns. From Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.

Tamarind flower chili relish inspired by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกดอกมะขาม อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik daawk makhaam)

Golden Jackfruit Seeds
Thai Mung Bean Marzipan and Egg Yolk Dessert
(Met Khanoon ; ขนมเม็ดขนุน)

It is believed that this dish was introduced to the Siamese royal cuisine in the middle of the seventeenth century by Portuguese traders. Later, along with other egg yolk-based golden sweets like the golden drops (thong yot ทองหยอด), golden flowers (thong yip ทองหยิบ) and golden threads (foi thong ฝอยทอง), these royal desserts were passed to commoners outside the court. For the marzipan filling I am using, beside the mung beans, both the flesh and the water of fragrant young coconuts. It gives a rich, sweet and almost nutty flavor which works perfectly with the silky texture of the mung beans and the creamy golden egg yolks coating.

Roasted duck curry with prunes and apples

Duck Curry with Prunes and Apples (แกงเป็ดกับพรูนและแอปเปิ้ล อย่าง ม.ล. เติบ ชุมสาย; gaaeng bpet gap phruun lae aaep bpeern)

When it comes to pairing fruits with meats in savory dishes, it’s hard to match the bold tangy-luscious combination of apples and prunes in this old-fashioned coconut-based spicy curry with braised duck. The dish is seasoned to a spicy, salty, and sour-sweet flavor profile, which is further intensified by the prunes’ subtle nectareous, savory-sweetness and the apples’ fruity, sweet-tartness. This curry is a perfect example of how fruits can complement the already complex and profound aromatic relationships between meaty-savory flavors, the curry paste’s aromatic identity, and the dish’s herbal character of Thai basil and fresh peppercorns – creating a most memorable flavor impression.

c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)

This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.

c1908 Haaw Mohk steamed savory curried cakes featuring crab meat, chicken, and pork (ห่อหมกทรงเครื่อง อย่างท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์ พ.ศ. 2451 ; haaw mohk sohng khreuuang)

This festive and rich recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring chicken, crab and pork meats. This recipe was chosen from the various versions available at the time by Lady Plean Passakornrawong, for inclusion in her epic cookbook Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์).

Fresh Shrimp Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)

FShrimp Tom Bproong Soht Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)

Gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht: grilled shrimp with green mango and pickled garlic, seasoned at the bowl. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Angel Visiting the Chamber: A Salad of Pomelo, Pork Skin and Shrimp with Chili Jam Dressing, circa 1920s (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง; yam naang faa yiiam haawng)

The name of this dish, yam naang faa yiiam haawng (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง), translates to ‘Angel Visiting the Chamber Salad’ in English. This celestial salad, which originated in the 1920s, is a playful chili jam-based salad that combines the textural gradients of pomelo, with its citrusy bursts, chewy cooked pork skin, and the sweet and slightly resilient cooked shrimp meat. The pomelo’s citrusy notes are further amplified with thinly sliced lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves sliced into hair-thin juliennes. I like to adjust the sourness and sweetness of the chili jam-based dressing based on the acidity of the pomelo. As our aim is to achieve a final sour-salty and sweet flavor profile, a sour-salty dressing is suggested if the pomelo is sweet, while a salty-sweet dressing pairs better with a sour pomelo.

Grilled Seasoned Rice Crust (ข้าวตังปิ้งปรุง; khaao dtang bping bproong)

Khaao dtang bping bproong, rice crust grilled with garlic-lard and fish sauce, brushed on with a banana leaf. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Tom Yam of Snakehead Fish (ต้มยำปลาช่อน; dtohm yam bplaa chaawn)

Dtohm yam bplaa chaawn: snakehead fish in milled-rice broth, the chili jam pounded off the fire and dissolved in the bowl. Tamra Gap Khao, 1890.

Old-Fashioned Phat Phrik Khing, Yesteryear's Travel Food (ผัดพริกขิง อาหารคนเดินทาง)

Khaao bping - grilled banana leaf parcels filled with fermented shrimp paste relish seasoned rice, sweet pork, and crispy garlic (ข้าวปิ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์)

Khaao bping (ข้าวปิ้ง) is a dish of seasoned rice mixed with sweet pork and crispy fried garlic, then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals a slightly charred rice cake that melts into a pleasantly chewy, smoky, and deliciously savory treat. Created by using basic ingredients of Siamese cuisine, the dish can be served on a bed of banana leaves or on fine porcelain plates, thus touching the hearts of diners from all walks of life.

c1933 An Auspicious fish ball curry with two basils (แกงเผ็ดปลาเล็กปลาน้อย; gaaeng phet bplaa lek bplaa naawy)

Typically, in Central-style curries, different types of basil are not used together. In higher cuisine, it is an unstated – but understood – practice to avoid blending the definitive scents of various basils. A curry’s final herbal identity is intended to remain definitively with its basil: the citrus notes of holy basil; the spicy-woody and pungent flavor of tree basil; the tart fragrance of lemon basil; or the cooling anise sensation of Thai basil.

c1933 Manifold flavors curry – a chicken and pineapple spicy curry (แกงเผ็ดหลากหลายรส; gaaeng phet laak laai roht)

At first glance, this chicken and pineapple curry might seem ordinary or plain. After all, even though spicy curries with sour notes have been relished for ages, they feature repetitive patterns that could be viewed as common and perhaps uninteresting. However, with a calculated yet simple approach, this curry turns corners – quite literally – into a dish with a new flavor melody. It is thus referred to by its author, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), as laak laai roht, a “curry with manifold flavors (หลากหลายรส)”.

c1949 Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa (ยำฟักทองกะทิ ตำราการปรุงอาหารยำ หม่อมหญิงสุภา พ.ศ. 2492; yam fak thaawng Gathi)

Goon Saa Lime-Cured Pork (กุญซ่า; goon saa)

Goon saa: lean pork cured by lime juice and salt without fire, shredded and tossed with its own reduced pressing liquid. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.

Deep-Sea Shrimp and Cabbage Simmered in Coconut Milk (ต้มกะทิกุ้งตะเข็บกับกะหล่ำปลี; dtohm ga thi goong dta khep gap ga lam bplee)

Dtohm ga thi goong dta khep, shredded cabbage simmered in thin coconut milk with tail-tucked soft-shell shrimp and sour fruit. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Salad of Thai milkweed flower buds (yam daawk khajaawn ; ยำดอกขจร)

The first Thai restaurant in London was opened during the 1960's by HRH Princess Jurairat Nasiriman (1910-2000) (พระเจ้าวรวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าจุไรรัตนศิริมาน), the granddaughter of HRH King Mongkut (Rama IV). Princess Jurairat chose to offer this salad on the menu and named it "Salad of Thai Milkweed Flower". (Other names: Cowslip creeper, Telosma Cordata). This fresh and tasty salad is so vibrant and easy for us to enjoy, it takes in the very basic flavors, sweet, salty, hot and sour and wrap them in a creamy coat of reduced coconut cream. The milkweed flower buds retain their crunchiness and their pleasant fragrance with only a gentle and very quick blanching in sweet boiling water.

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