c1949 Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa (ยำฟักทองกะทิ ตำราการปรุงอาหารยำ หม่อมหญิงสุภา พ.ศ. 2492; yam fak thaawng Gathi)

By: Hanuman
🔊 Listen to the Thai name pronunciation
Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa

Describing this salad in words transforms flavors and texture into language; thus, if you’re not familiar with salad flavor re-layering terms, you can quickly review them here, as this is the foundation for the technique described here.

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The wonted flavor character of Siamese salad dressing is typically composed of short, layered phrases of flavor – sour, salty and sweet – at varying intensities. In this salad, using the most common ingredients, a simple division between the sweet and the sour-salty elements creates a dish with a new and unique figurative character. Furthermore, this abstract flavor line correlates taste with its equivalent texture; sharp and pointed on the sour side, but smooth, cozy and comforting on the sweet side.

Thin slices of medium- to well-done grilled pork neck are acid cured in a sharp sour and salty dressing, then rolled in thin flakes of roasted peanuts that bind to the meat like hedgehog spikes. The pork and peanuts are arranged on a bed of soft pumpkin slices cooked in soothing coconut cream, which thickens slightly into a naturally sweet and comforting white and yellow-orangey cushion for the meat. Last, thin threads of cooked chicken breast are used to garnish the salad.

pork-pumpkin-salad-illustration

When you take a bite of this salad, you get an uninterrupted sense of how the dish’s opposing flavors and contrasting textures reconnect. As you chew, the sour-salty pork and its crispy peanut spikes merge with the rounded and creamy pumpkin for a surprising final salad character.

Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa
c1949 Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa (ยำฟักทองกะทิ ตำราการปรุงอาหารยำ หม่อมหญิงสุภา พ.ศ. 2492; yam fak thaawng gathi)
In this salad, using the most common ingredients, a simple division between the sweet and the sour-salty elements creates a dish with a new and unique figurative character.
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Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 35 minutes
Course Salad
Cuisine Thai
Servings 4

Ingredients
  

  • 100 g pork neck meat (สันคอหมู) grilled to medium and cut into thin slices.
  • 30 g chicken breast (อกไก่) cooked and pulled into thin threads
  • 1 1/2 cups pumpkin (ฟักทอง) cooked and sliced into equal shape bite-size pieces.
  • 1 cups coconut cream (หัวกะทิ)
  • 1/4 part granulated sugar (น้ำตาลทราย)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted roasted shelled peanuts (ถั่วลิสงคั่ว) flaked
  • fresh red and green Thai bird’s eye chilies (phrik kee noo) (พริกขี้หนูแดง และ เขียว) optional, sliced crosswise into thin slices

Seasoning:

  • 1 part lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
  • 1 1/2 parts fish sauce (น้ำปลา)

Instructions
 

Prepare the peanuts:

  • Using a sharp knife, thinly slice the roasted peanuts into flakes of a uniform thickness; set aside.

Prepare the chicken:

  • Cook the chicken breast in boiling water.
  • Once cooked, remove the chicken and pull the meat into threads while the chicken is still warm. Set aside.

Prepare the pumpkin:

  • Remove pumpkin seeds and cut the pumpkin pulp into equal bite-sized pieces. Peeling is optional.
  • In a pot, combine the pumpkin pieces with middle coconut cream, add the sugar, and bring to a gentle simmer.
  • Keep simmering until the pumpkin pieces are almost fork-tender.
  • Turn off the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. The pumpkin will continue to cook from the residual heat. Set aside.

Prepare the grilled pork:

  • Slice the pork neck meat into 1/2” (1.5 cm) steak cut. Rub the pork with fish sauce.
  • Charcoal grill the pork over low heat until medium done. As you grill, from time to time toss a handful of grated coconut over the hot charcoal to smoke the meat.
  • When the pork is cooked, allow to rest before slicing it into thin, bite-sized pieces.

Prepare the salad dressing:

  • Combine fish sauce with lime juice at a 1:1 ratio to create a sharp sour salty dressing.
  • Optional – add fresh chilies cut crosswise into thin slices.

Assemble the dish:

  • Place the cooked pumpkin on a serving plate.
  • Toss the sliced pork with the salad dressing and let it sit for a couple of moments until the meat is fully cooked.
  • Roll the pork slices in the flaked peanuts, one at a time, making sure the peanuts cover the pork on all sides before placing them on the pumpkin.
  • Drizzle some of the remaining coconut cream and salad dressing on top of the dish, being careful not to wash off the peanuts from the pork.
  • Garnish with the chicken threads and serve.
Keyword Thai salad (ยำ และ พล่า)
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Ian Westcott
Sourcing Wines for Discerning Private Clients
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