This recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring clown featherback fish meat (เนื้อปลากราย) and slices of firm snakehead fish (ปลาช่อน). It is a classic recipe that follows the ancient haaw mohk tradition with a contemporary accent.
The dish features the meat of the clown featherback fish (ปลากราย; bplaa graai), which is a light orchid-pink color. The fish is pounded into a chewy, firm and soft-textured paste before it is further stir-emulsified with coconut cream, curry paste and duck eggs, to which thin slices of snakehead fish are added as a textural element.
Instead of the phrik khing (พริกขิง) paste used by Maawm Sohm Jeen and Lady Plean, we will substitute a standard gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด), adding roasted peanuts for extra creaminess and nutty notes. You can safely follow Thaifoodmaster’s universal curry paste ratios to determine the quantities of the paste ingredients.
For the herb, I will use the great morinda leaves (ใบยอ; bai yaaw), but if these are not available, you can use any of the other common haaw mohk herbal beddings described in the haaw mohk Masterclass.
If you’re not familiar with the principles of haaw mohk making, you can quickly review them here, as this is the foundation for the technique used in this recipe. In addition, this article offers detailed instructions, including scientific and chemical interpretation of the techniques that Siamese cooks were expected to follow.
This recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring clown featherback fish meat (เนื้อปลากราย) and slices of firm snakehead fish (ปลาช่อน). It is a classic recipe that follows the ancient haaw mohk tradition with a contemporary accent.
fresh red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง)sliced into hair-thin juliennes
kaffir lime leaves (ใบมะกรูด)sliced into hair-thin juliennes
For Wrapping:
Banana leaf (ใบตอง)
Instructions
Prepare the tools for the emulsion-stirring:
If you are using a clay pot, soak it in water for at least an hour before using it; or you can use an ice bain-marie by placing the mixing container in a larger bowl filled with ice.
Prepare the banana leaf wraps or containers:
Lightly pass fresh banana leaves over an open fire until they soften.
Start by processing the clown featherback fish. In an earthen mortar and pestle, pound the fish meat vigorously to develop its actomyosin protein structure and improve its texture as it steams. You can add ice cubes from time to time, to keep the fish mixture chilled and prevent the fats from melting. Wetting the pestle will help to prevent the fish from sticking to it. You will know the process is done when the fish’s resistance to the pounding becomes constant. The process should take about 30 minutes. Set aside, keep refrigerated.
Clean, fillet and cut the snakehead fish into thin slices. Set aside.
Prepare the coconut cream:
If you are making your own coconut cream, grate and squeeze thick coconut cream with no or just a little water added. If you order fresh coconut cream at the market, ask for a cream squeeze without water added.
Reserve half a cup of coconut cream for the topping. Place it in a pot, add a pinch of salt and bring it to a gentle boil over low heat. Allow it to thicken slightly. Do not let it separate. Set it aside and let it cool.
Prepare the paste:
An overview of the paste ingredients.
De-seed and rehydrate the dried chilies in hot water.
Pound the curry paste; start with the chilies and salt, and gradually add the other ingredients, from the driest to the wet. Pound the paste until it is smooth with a rounded aroma. Add peanuts and fermented shrimp paste.
For textural and visual considerations, pound the paste to the finest consistency possible. Set aside.
Emulsion-stirring (กวนห่อหมก):
Add the pounded featherback fish meat to a wet clay mixing bowl or use an ice bain-marie. Add the thinly sliced snakehead fish. Add salt to facilitate the thickening of the mixture.
Start adding coconut cream. Start with an amount equal to half the volume of the protein and gradually add more as you stir the mixture.
Using a wooden paddle (traditional) or a silicone spatula, gently stir the meat and the coconut cream in one direction only. Gentle stirring is essential for emulsifying the proteins, fats, and liquids without the risk of the mixture breaking, separating, overheating, or forming foam – all of which will adversely affect the dish's texture. Continue stirring while gradually adding more coconut cream as the mixture thickens into a smooth composition.
When the meats and coconut cream have blended into a smooth consistency, add the paste. Keep stirring, maintaining the same pace and mixing direction.
Season to a salty leading with a sweet floor flavor profile. Start by seasoning the salty element using fish sauce.
When you are satisfied with the saltiness, add granulated sugar to adjust the natural sweetness of the coconut cream.
Adjust spiciness, if needed, with ground dried chili.
Add the duck egg and continue the process of emulsion-stirring, maintaining the same pace and mixing direction, until the proteins, coconut cream, paste and the egg are incorporated into a thick and very smooth consistency.
Optional – add kaffir lime leaves sliced into hair-thin juliennes.
The entire mixing process takes about 45-60 minutes to complete. Mixing it thoroughly and gently, as described above, is crucial to achieving the desired texture of the steamed curry.
Steaming:
Remove the midrib stem of the great morinda leaves, then slice roughly.
Line the banana leaf or ceramic containers with sliced great morinda leaves (ใบยอ; bai yaaw), Thai basil, or any other herbal bedding of your choice.
Scoop out a portion of the haaw mok mixture and place it on top of the herbs.
Drizzle the thick coconut cream on top.
Garnish with thinly sliced spring onions.
Wrap the haaw mohk and place it the steamer. Repeat until all the mixture is processed. Steam over moderate heat for 8-10 minutes. High heat will cause the haaw mohk mixture to overly inflate and become soggy. Garnish with coriander leaves, spring onions and thinly sliced kaffir lime leaves.
Serve it in the container or remove and serve on a plate.
Keyword hor mok, haaw mohk (ห่อหมก)
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This festive and rich recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring chicken, crab and pork meats. This recipe was chosen from the various versions available at the time by Lady Plean Passakornrawong, for inclusion in her epic cookbook Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์).
For the khanohm jeen saao naam version that we present today, we turn again to the writing of Thanpuying (Lady) Gleep Mahithaawn for her unique take on the dish. Her version is quite similar to the common recipe encountered nowadays, but Lady Gleep enhances it with more ingredients, elevating the dish yet another notch to the level of a majestic masterpiece.
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Gain access to NEW MONTHLY masterclasses as they become available.
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The opportunity to join a monthly live two-hour videoconference where I can answer your questions.
one year access for the price of 3 days in-person training.
You will get everything you need to:
When you design or build a new menu for an event or restaurant or even prepare for dinner with friends.
Finally !
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