Central Plains and Bangkok Cuisine Archives

Royal Rice Porridge with Accompaniments (ข้าวต้มทรงเครื่อง; khaao dtohm sohng khreuuang)

Royal Rice Porridge with Accompaniments features crispy dried shrimp, tofu, peanuts, and potato chips atop soft rice porridge. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.

Fermented Rice Noodles, Shrimp and Pork Appetizer Dressed with Fried Chili Jam and Peanuts
(ขนมจีนญี่ปุ่น; Khanohm jeen Yee Poon)

Khanohm jeen yee poon is an appetizer consisting of a small roll of fermented rice noodles laid on a green lettuce leaf and topped with a slice of cucumber and cooked shrimp and pork belly, dressed with sour-sweet and salty fried chili jam, sprinkled with roasted peanuts and decorated with coriander leaf and a thin julienne of fresh red chili pepper. A squeeze of fresh lime juice is applied just before eating the dish.

Chak sohm sour curry (gaaeng chak sohm ; แกงชักส้มปลาช่อน)

Chuu Chee Curry with Climbing Perch (แกงฉู่ฉี่ปลาหมอ; gaaeng chuu chee bplaa maaw)

Chuu chee curry with climbing perch — pan-fried fish in split coconut cream based chuu chee curry with kaffir lime leaves and coriander leaves. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.

c1920 Sarama Shrimp Curry with White Eggplants and Lotus Stems (แกงสะระหม่ากุ้งกับมะเขือขาว และ สายบัว พ.ศ. 2463; gaaeng saramaa goong gap makheuua khaao reuu saai buaa)

A dish of complex flavors and an aromatic brightness, this Sarama curry features shrimp and the smaller Thai white eggplant, or crunchy lotus stems, in a golden, salty leading broth with clear tangy-sweet notes. The broth is silky and combines the nutty richness of coconut cream with the subtle sweetness of butter, cooked with a blend of dry spices that include coriander, cumin and turmeric. This spice blend evokes the penetrating aroma of curry powder, reflecting Muslim culinary influences. Unlike spicy gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด) curries, which typically deploy dried chilies in the paste, Sarama curry contains fresh chilies. A mix of both red and yellow chili varieties are utilized, fusing the vibrant, fruity piquancy of the fresh chilies with the warm, earthy aromas of the spices. The red chilies contribute a ripe tropical fruitiness while the yellow offer citrusy and floral notes, creating a light yet layered curry with nuanced heat and depth of flavor.

Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut (ห่อหมกไก่มะพร้าวอ่อน; haaw mohk gai ma phraao aawn)

Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut, featuring chicken cooked inside a coconut shell with a curry base of unpeeled peanuts and fermented shrimp paste. From Gingganok's 1948.

Jee (jeen) Juan Curry ; แกงเผ็ดไก่จี่จ๋วน, แกงจีนจ๊วน, แกงจ๋วน; Gaaeng Jee Juaan

Jee (Jeen) Juaan Curry of Chicken, Banana Chilies, Peanuts and Indian Spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่จี่จ๋วน, แกงจีนจ๊วน, แกงจ๋วน ; gaaeng phet gai jee juaan )

Also known as: gaaeng jeen juaan (แกงจีนจ๊วน), or gaaeng juaan (แกงจ๋วน). Gaaeng jeen juaan is a coconut-based red curry. With primary ingredients of chicken, light green banana chili peppers and peanuts, it is similar to Massaman curry (matsaman); and scented with the sweet aroma of dry Indian spices such as cumin, mace, nutmeg, clove, star anise and cinnamon. Pineapple adds sweetness and a thin layer of tartness. The sweet and sour flavors are echoed by the addition of fresh sugarcane juice and a squeeze of bitter orange juice (sohm saa). To enhance the aroma and texture of the curry, roasted grated coconut is added to the curry paste.

Spicy Curry of Single Catfish (แกงเผ็ดปลาดุกโสด; gaaeng phet bplaa dook so:ht)

Gaaeng phet bplaa dook so:ht, spicy catfish curry with snakehead fish pounded into the paste, pickled bamboo shoots, and tamarind. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Beef-Stuffed Potato Croquettes (มันสอดไส้; man saawt sai)

Man saawt sai, mashed potato shells encasing a minced-beef filling pounded with ginger, turmeric and coriander, fried golden. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Thai Coconut Curry of Steamed Mackerels and Lotus Stems
(gaaeng gathi saai buaa bplaa thuu neung ;
แกงกะทิสายบัวปลาทูนึ่ง)

This old-fashioned Thai coconut curry dish is a simple expression made with ingredients commonly available to Thais, it features steamed mackerels - the fish that Thai people probably love the best and the stems of the lotus flowers - one of Buddhism's most recognized motifs. The fish together with peeled lotus stems are boiled in coconut milk, to which a simple yet very aromatic curry paste, made only of white pepper corns, shallots and fermented shrimp paste is added.

Grilled Rawaaeng Curried Rice Parcels in Banana Leaves (ระแวงขาวปิง; ra waaeng khaao bping)

Ra waaeng khaao bping, rice parcels with duck and coconut cream wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 Thai appetizer cookbook.

Fermented shrimp paste relish with grilled pea eggplants (น้ำพริกมะเขือพวง ; naam phrik ma kheuua phuaang)

Krayathip (กระยาทิพย์; gra yaa thip)

Krayathip, spiced pork and coconut parcels wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of Thai snacks and desserts.

c1908 Chuu Chee with Mackerel (ฉู่ฉี่ปลาทู ; chuu chee bplaa thuu)

A salty-sweet, water-based chuu chee dish that features a thick, almost dry sauce. The deep burnt-red and shiny chuu chee sauce clings to the skin of the crispy mackerel, gold-colored from frying the fish in pork lard. The aromatic profile of the chuu chee complements the mackerel's rich, full-bodied flavor. Although chuu chee is usually made using freshwater fish, saltwater fish, especially mackerel, is featured in chuu chee dishes prepared along the coasts of the Central Plains. This is especially common during the rainy season, when the mackerel is plentiful and of excellent quality.

c1889 Garee Curry with Shrimp and Cucumber (แกงกะหรี่กุ้งกับแตงกวา; gaaeng garee goong gap dtaaeng gwaa)

In this old-fashioned coconut-based curry, orangey shrimp and bright green cucumber shine in a golden haze of curry powder, caressed by the light breeze of Indian flare. Cucumbers are used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine as a coolant, to offset internal heat and to resolve fevers. Thus, like a refreshing oasis in the middle of a shimmering desert, the cucumber counterbalances the chili’s internal heat energy and mellows the fragrant, earthy undertones of the spice blend in the dish.

Scented Cassava-Starch Diamonds in Coconut Milk (มันสำปะหลังยอหยา; man sam bpa lang yaaw yaa)

Man sam bpa lang yaaw yaa: cassava starch diamonds kneaded with pandan, served in floral-scented coconut milk. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Ancient Siamese Recipe for Tom Yum Soup with Snakehead Fish, Roasted Chili Jam and Green Mango (First Published in 1890) (Dtohm Yam Bplaa Chaawn, ต้มยำปลาช่อนแบบโบราณ อย่างหม่อมซ่มจีน ราชานุประพันธุ์ ร.ศ.๑๐๙)

An Ancient Siamese Recipe for Tom Yum Soup (First Published in 1890). Sour Spicy Tom Yum Soup with Snakehead Fish, Roasted Chili Jam and Green Mango (Dtohm Yam Bplaa Chaawn, ต้มยำปลาช่อนแบบโบราณ อย่างหม่อมซ่มจีน ราชานุประพันธุ์ ร.ศ.๑๐๙)

Tom yum soup from the late 19th-century Siam to present days. Including a step-by-step recreation of tom yum soup with snakehead fish (dtohm yam bplaa chaawn, ตัมยำปลาช่อน) as recorded by Maawm Sohm Jeen (Raa Chaa Noopraphan) (หม่อมซ่มจีน, ราชานุประพันธุ์) in her book “Tam Raa Gap Khao” (ตำรากับเข้า), published in 1890 (2433 BE, 109RE).

Khanohm faawy or Khanohm handtraa A Forgotten Thai Dessert and Snack ขนมฝอย หรือ ขนมหันตรา

Known as Khanohm faawy (ขนมฝอย) or Khanohm handtraa, this sweet or savory packet can be a dessert or a snack. The dessert has a sweet filling of silky mung beans and a coconut marzipan-like paste, while the snack’s savory filling consists of shrimp and pork minced and seasoned with garlic, coriander root and white peppercorns. Each is theatrically wrapped in a striking nest of skillfully crafted duck’s egg thread.

Nang Laweng Sticky Rice (ข้าวเหนียวนางละเวง; khaao niaao naang la waehng)

Khaao niaao naang la waehng, black glutinous rice balls deep-fried in lard with spiced beef and potato filling. Delicious Side Dishes, 1935.

Dry-Fried Salted Spanish Mackerel Relish (ปลาอินทรีคั่ว; bplaa in see khuaa)

Bplaa in see khuaa — grilled salted mackerel pounded with seven aromatics, fried in roasted coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Roasted duck curry with prunes and apples

Duck Curry with Prunes and Apples (แกงเป็ดกับพรูนและแอปเปิ้ล อย่าง ม.ล. เติบ ชุมสาย; gaaeng bpet gap phruun lae aaep bpeern)

When it comes to pairing fruits with meats in savory dishes, it’s hard to match the bold tangy-luscious combination of apples and prunes in this old-fashioned coconut-based spicy curry with braised duck. The dish is seasoned to a spicy, salty, and sour-sweet flavor profile, which is further intensified by the prunes’ subtle nectareous, savory-sweetness and the apples’ fruity, sweet-tartness. This curry is a perfect example of how fruits can complement the already complex and profound aromatic relationships between meaty-savory flavors, the curry paste’s aromatic identity, and the dish’s herbal character of Thai basil and fresh peppercorns – creating a most memorable flavor impression.

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