Shrimp-Topped Canapes (ขนมปังหน้ากุ้ง; khanohm bpang naa goong)
Shrimp-Topped Canapes (ขนมปังหน้ากุ้ง; khanohm bpang naa goong)
Khanohm bpang naa goong: fried bread squares topped with coconut-cream shrimp, garnished with semi-matured coconut in a cross. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
gaaeng jeuut gaawn gaaeo
Clear soup with shredded chicken and rambutan stuffed with pork, shrimp and crab meat (แกงจืดก้อนแก้ว; gaaeng jeuut gaawn gaaeo)
lemongrass salad
Pomelo salad with salted shrimp and a lemongrass-infused coconut cream dressing (ยำส้มโอกุ้งเค็ม ; yam sohm o:h goong khem)
jungle curry
Kanchanaburi-Style Snakehead Fish Jungle Curry with Bitter Yellow Eggplants (แกงป่าปลา ; gaaeng bpaa bplaa)
This recipe is adapted from a recipe I obtained from a jungle food restaurant in Kanchanaburi province. The paste is a downgrade of a phrik khing paste – it omits the coriander roots and shallots. In addition, the recipe substitutes the fermented shrimp paste (kapi) with maawn fermented fish paste (กะปิมอญ; gabpi maawn), which is a popular ingredient among the Mon-Burmese population of the western province. The lack of shallots eliminates any sweetness that might impair the sharpness and heat of the dish. Furthermore, a double hit of citrus notes from holy basil are infused into the dish: from the holy basil flowers added to the paste and the holy basil leaves added to the curry.
picy curry of fatty chicken
c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
sarama-shrimp-curry
c1920 Sarama Shrimp Curry with White Eggplants and Lotus Stems (แกงสะระหม่ากุ้งกับมะเขือขาว และ สายบัว พ.ศ. 2463; gaaeng saramaa goong gap makheuua khaao reuu saai buaa)
A dish of complex flavors and an aromatic brightness, this Sarama curry features shrimp and the smaller Thai white eggplant, or crunchy lotus stems, in a golden, salty leading broth with clear tangy-sweet notes. The broth is silky and combines the nutty richness of coconut cream with the subtle sweetness of butter, cooked with a blend of dry spices that include coriander, cumin and turmeric. This spice blend evokes the penetrating aroma of curry powder, reflecting Muslim culinary influences. Unlike spicy gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด) curries, which typically deploy dried chilies in the paste, Sarama curry contains fresh chilies. A mix of both red and yellow chili varieties are utilized, fusing the vibrant, fruity piquancy of the fresh chilies with the warm, earthy aromas of the spices. The red chilies contribute a ripe tropical fruitiness while the yellow offer citrusy and floral notes, creating a light yet layered curry with nuanced heat and depth of flavor.
Spicy Salad with Crispy Fish and Bird's Eye Chili (ยำปลากรอบกับพริกเม็ดเล็ก; yam bplaak raawp gap phrik met lek)
Spicy Salad with Crispy Fish and Bird's Eye Chili (ยำปลากรอบกับพริกเม็ดเล็ก; yam bplaak raawp gap phrik met lek)
Yam bplaak raawp gap phrik met lek - smoke-dried fish salad with fried aromatic herbs and salt-tempered bird's eye chilies. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Rice Soup with Pork Meatballs (ข้าวต้มลูกชิ้นสุกร; khaao dtohm luuk chin soo gaawn)
Rice Soup with Pork Meatballs (ข้าวต้มลูกชิ้นสุกร; khaao dtohm luuk chin soo gaawn)
Khaao dtohm luuk chin soo gaawn, steamed pork meatballs in rice soup with coriander root paste, served with fried crullers. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Side dish: Dressed Fermented Shrimp Paste (เยื่อเคยทรงเครื่อง; yeuua kheeuy sohng khreuuang)
Side dish: Dressed Fermented Shrimp Paste (เยื่อเคยทรงเครื่อง; yeuua kheeuy sohng khreuuang)
Yeuua kheeuy sohng khreuuang — kapi wrapped in banana leaf, ground fine, tossed with three eggplant varieties. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
LohnMaKheuuaPhao หล่นมะเขือเผากุ้งสด
Grilled Eggplant Lohn Relish with Shrimp (หลนมะเขือเผากุ้งสด; Lohn Ma Kheuua Phao Goong Soht)
Lohn relish of grilled eggplant (หลนมะเขือเผากุ้งสด) captivates with its subtle contrasts and complex layering of flavors. Central to this dish is grilled eggplant, which is known for its inherent bitterness due to phenolic compounds like chlorogenic acid. However, this bitterness succumbs to a delightful transformation when the eggplant is simmered in coconut cream. The fats and sugars in the coconut cream effectively mask these bitter notes, resulting in a deep, satisfying savory relish that is both well-balanced and rounded. Accompanying the eggplant are roasted shallots and garnet-blushed grilled tomatoes. The grilled tomatoes not only add natural sweetness and brightness to the dish, but also contribute to its visual charm via their muted orangey reds. This color palette complements the eggplant’s earthy, slightly sweet taste, represented through rich, velvety white-green hues. The interplay of colors in the dish mirror the complexity of its flavors. The minced shrimp meat introduces a briny sweetness and a contrasting texture. The relish is seasoned to a sour-sweet leading salty to follow flavor profile, enhancing the smoky sweetness imparted by the grilled ingredients and creating a palette of flavor and color that is as attractive as it is delicious.
haaw mohk and ngohp
Haaw Mohk and Ngohp (ห่อหมก และ งบ)
Heavenly Beef (เนื้อทิพย์; neuua thip)
Heavenly Beef (เนื้อทิพย์; neuua thip)
Neuua thip, beef rump stir-fried in thick coconut milk with Indian turmeric, served on cabbage with a chili dipping sauce. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Saaeng Waa Shrimp (แสร้งว่ากุ้งสด; saaeng waa goong soht)
Saaeng Waa Shrimp (แสร้งว่ากุ้งสด; saaeng waa goong soht)
Saaeng waa goong soht, a shrimp relish of hand-torn just-cooked shrimp with pink ginger and kaffir lime. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Curry of Black Ear Catfish or Iridescent Shark with Lemon Basil (แกงปลาเทโพหรือปลาสวายกับใบแมงลัก; gaaeng bplaa thaeh pho:h reuu bplaa sawaai gap bai maaeng lak)
Curry of Black Ear Catfish or Iridescent Shark with Lemon Basil (แกงปลาเทโพหรือปลาสวายกับใบแมงลัก; gaaeng bplaa thaeh pho:h reuu bplaa sawaai gap bai maaeng lak)
Gaaeng bplaa thaeh phoh, water-based catfish curry with lemon basil, tamarind, and a pounded dry spice paste. Mrs. Paan Nanthaaphiwat, 1953.
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip, chicken curry with young shatavari fruit; paste fried in rendered coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Rose-petal-salad ; ยำกลีบกุพชกะ
Rose Petals Salad (ยำกลีบกุพชกะ ; yam gleep goop cha ga)
Chef Thapakorn Lertviriyavit (Gorn) brings us a rare perfumed and colorful starter [salad] dish that was rediscovered in a cookbook written by a former governor of Nakhon Ratchasima (พระยานครราชเสนี - สหัด สิงหเสนี), which contained a recipe that called for rose petals, called ‘Yum Gularb' or ‘Rose Petal Salad'. But I'd prefer to rename it, ‘Yum Gleep Kuppatchka'. You will soon understand why....
gaaeng muu yaang gap gluay dip ; แกงหมูย่างกับกล้วยดิบ
Old-Fashioned Thai Red Curry of Grilled & Smoked Pork Neck and Unripe Green Bananas (แกงหมูย่างกับกล้วยดิบ ; gaaeng muu yaang gap gluay dip)
Thai red curry is a broad term describing any curry that is red in color, although variations exist among the dish’s ingredients or their ratios. Today’s menu features a Thai red curry paste to which we add higher quantities of coriander root and kaffir lime zest; this creates a more aromatic character that will enhance the smokiness of the grilled pork meat and the mild sweetness of the unripe green bananas.
Three-Flavor Crispy Egg Noodles (บะหมี่สามรส; ba mee saam roht)
Three-Flavor Crispy Egg Noodles (บะหมี่สามรส; ba mee saam roht)
Ba mee saam roht: deep-fried egg noodles topped with shrimp, pork fat, jicama, and pineapple in a sour-sweet-salty sauce. Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.
naam phrik roy rot
Salted Chinese black olive chili relish (น้ำพริกหนำเลี้ยบ; naam phrik nam liiap)
khao-phat-garee
Golden Chestnut Fried Rice with Mint and Tomato (ข้าวผัดกาหรี่; khaao phat garee), circa 1935
Dating from the early 1900s, this tempting fried rice dish highlights how the Siamese aristocracy savored their golden rice, perfumed with an alluring blend of imported spices. The dish can be enjoyed on its own or as part of a larger meal featuring curries and soups.
"Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain" Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนครามแดง; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)
"Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain" Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนครามแดง; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)
Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain Fermented Rice Noodles featuring a coconut sauce infused with roasted shallots, garlic and mung beans. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.
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