Also known as:gaaeng jeen juaan (แกงจีนจ๊วน), or gaaeng juaan (แกงจ๋วน).
Gaaeng jeen juaan is a coconut-based curry. With primary ingredients of chicken, light green banana chili peppers and peanuts, it is similar to Massaman curry (matsaman); and scented with the sweet aroma of dry Indian spices such as cumin, mace, nutmeg, clove, star anise and cinnamon. Pineapple adds sweetness and a thin layer of tartness. The sweet and sour flavors are echoed by the addition of fresh sugarcane juice and a squeeze of bitter orange juice (sohm saa). To enhance the aroma and texture of the curry, roasted grated coconut is added to the curry paste.
This recipe comes from Phra Sucharit Suda (1895 -1982), who was the first consort of King Rama VI (formerly Prueng Sucharitakul) (พระสุจริตสุดา (เปรื่อง สุจริตกุล)”). On her 60th birthday, in 1955, Phra Sucharit Suda published a cookbook called “How to Cook Thai and Western Food (วิธีทำอาหารไทยและฝรั่ง)”, based on her own recipes.
The popularity of the richer, thicker Massaman curry came to overshadow this dish, and today it is barely present on the Thai culinary landscape. Food culture is constantly evolving and changing: Dishes that are less popular among wider populations have been known to entirely disappear: This is one of the reasons that we have chosen to write about this forgotten dish, and to hopefully preserve it for future generations.
Gaaeng Jeen Juaan – A Javanese Muslim Dish In the early days of his reign, King Rama V visited several neighboring territories including Singapore, Java (1870), Burma and India (1877). At that time, these kingdoms were western vassal states, and The King sought practical knowledge on the administrative methods implemented by the British and the Dutch.
King Chulalongkorn was accompanied by the Queen Consort of Siam, Saovabha Phongsri [สมเด็จพระศรีพัชรินทร์ฯ], as well as a sizeable entourage; in addition to observing the systems and procedures of governance, the group enjoyed many of the dishes created by Javanese Muslims, dishes strongly influenced by Indian and Arabic cooking.
King Rama V visiting Java.
King Rama V visiting Singapore.
Gaaeng phet gai jee juaan (แกงเผ็ดไก่จี่จ๋วน), satay (สะเต๊ะ) and khaao khlook naa si bpaa ji dto:h (ข้าวคลุกนาซิปาจิโต) moved into the Thai kitchen following the royal journeys. These dishes were swiftly adapted for the Siamese palate, again demonstrating the proficiency of the Siamese in accepting and integrating foreign influences in politics, culture and cuisine – and transforming them into something uniquely and truly Thai.
The dish remained popular within Royal society circles, and was published publicly after the Siamese Revolution of 1932.
Jee Juaan Curry in Thai Culinary literature The recipe appeared for the first time in 1935, in two books.
1935 – “Sai Yaowapa”, printed by Sai Panya Samakom (สายเยาวภา จัดพิมพ์โดยสายปัญญาสมาคม) as a memorial book for Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid, the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Rama V (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท).
1935 – “The Key to the Kitchen” (กุญแจห้องเครื่อง), written by Paw. Thuay Athawng (pseudonym) and published by Krung Thep Bannakarn (โรงพิมพ์กรุงเทพบรรณาคาร).
1949 – The recipe appears in Thanpuying (Lady) Gleep Mahithaawn’s book “Recipes for Teaching Children and Grandchildren” (หนังสือกับข้าวสอนลูกหลาน ท่านผู้หญิงกลีบมหิธร), printed for her 72nd birthday celebration on January 7, 1949.
1955 – The recipe is listed in a book called “How to Cook Thai and Western Food” (วิธีทำอาหารไทยและฝรั่ง) by Khun Phra Sucharit Suda.
Phra Sucharit Suda (1895 -1982) The daughter of Chao Phraya Sudharm Montri, and the first consort of King Vajiravudh (Rama VI), Phra Sucharit Suda was the first lady to receive the royal title, Khon Phra (คุณพระ), in 1921. She was well trained in Thai culinary arts by her grandmother, Lady Ratchapakdee, (Thongsook Sujaritkul) (คุณหญิงราชภักดี (ทองสุก สุจริตกุล)). She was also close to her niece, Tao Wanidapijarinee (Jao Jom Perm) (ท้าววนิดาพิจาริณี (เจ้าจอมเพิ่ม ในรัชกาลที่ ๕)), a wife of King Rama V, who served as the chief of the Royal Kitchen. Her culinary skills brought her to the royal kitchen of the Phaya Thai Palace, the Royal Residence of Queen Saovabha Phongsri of Rama V, who had accompanied the King on his trip to Java. There, Phra Sucharit Suda learned to prepare gaaeng phet gai jee juaan.
Phra Sucharit Suda
Jee (Jeen) Juaan Red Curry of Chicken, Banana Chilies, Peanuts and Indian Spices Recipe
Hanuman and Chef Thapakorn Lertviriyavit (Gorn)
Gaaeng jeen juaan is a coconut-based red curry. With primary ingredients of chicken, light green banana chili peppers and peanuts, it is similar to Massaman curry (matsaman); and scented with the sweet aroma of dry Indian spices such as cumin, mace, nutmeg, clove, star anise and cinnamon. Pineapple adds sweetness and a thin layer of tartness. The sweet and sour flavors are echoed by the addition of fresh sugarcane juice and a squeeze of bitter orange juice (sohm saa). To enhance the aroma and texture of the curry, roasted grated coconut is added to the curry paste.
Breaking news: The oldest Thai cookbook, as well as history’s first-ever recorded recipe for Phanaeng curry, are revealed for the first time on Thaifoodmaster.com – A 126-year-old cookbook written by one of Siam’s most revered singers, Maawm Sohm Jeen (Raa Chaa Noopraphan) (หม่อมซ่มจีน, ราชานุประพันธุ์), has been rediscovered, offering a unique glimpse into the culinary repertoire of 19th-century Siam. In this chapter we examine the different forms of phanaeng curry from the 1800s to the present day, as we reconstruct the 19th-century version and craft step-by-step a traditional beef phanaeng curry.
Thai red curry is a broad term describing any curry that is red in color, although variations exist among the dish’s ingredients or their ratios. Today’s menu features a Thai red curry paste to which we add higher quantities of coriander root and kaffir lime zest; this creates a more aromatic character that will enhance the smokiness of the grilled pork meat and the mild sweetness of the unripe green bananas.
This recipe would probably change your perception about the term “salad”, maybe because its dressing has a multi layered, curry-like personality, rather than the common sour vinaigrette-like dressing, or maybe because it takes some good few hours to prepare, somewhat longer than simply opening a bag of hydroponic greens.
This salad is the fruit of the dedication of court ladies from aristocratic households, that for centuries perfected and elaborated on the art of cooking through detailed and calculated process, to create sophisticated dishes that are not only delicious but also very healthy and visually pleasing.
These ladies made a very large commitment for small things, and they attended all their time and efforts to make minor things better and getting the small things just right.
Gai dtai naam, which means “under water chicken” in Thai, consists of braised chicken in a coarse, aromatic paste made from lemongrass, galangal, garlic, chilies, kaffir lime leaves, holy basil, coriander and spring onions. In the home-cooked dish popular among the Thai working class, the entire chicken – including the bones – is chopped into bite-size pieces, and served with a bottle of rice wine accompanied by local country-style music (luktung) at high volume.
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Practical and kitchen-tested recipes with a mix of theory, history, psychology, and Siamese culture tidbits.
Access to Thaifoodmaster’s constantly growing library of prime professional classes, articles, recipes and videos on Siamese culinary topics, available nowhere else in English.
Gain access to NEW MONTHLY masterclasses as they become available.
1-1 support from Hanuman to help you achieve your professional Thai culinary goals
The opportunity to join a monthly live two-hour videoconference where I can answer your questions.
one year access for the price of 3 days in-person training.
You will get everything you need to:
When you design or build a new menu for an event or restaurant or even prepare for dinner with friends.
Finally !
Master your Thai cooking skills and expand your repertoire.