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khao-phat-garee
Golden Chestnut Fried Rice with Mint and Tomato (ข้าวผัดกาหรี่; khaao phat garee), circa 1935
Dating from the early 1900s, this tempting fried rice dish highlights how the Siamese aristocracy savored their golden rice, perfumed with an alluring blend of imported spices. The dish can be enjoyed on its own or as part of a larger meal featuring curries and soups.
Stir-Fried Gao Lao Buut (ผัดเกาเหลาบูด; phat gao lao buut)
Stir-Fried Gao Lao Buut (ผัดเกาเหลาบูด; phat gao lao buut)
Phat gao lao buut, chicken offal and pork belly stir-fried in rendered pork fat, sweet-sour seasoned. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1951.
Khaao Dtang Rice Crust Soup (แกงข้าวตัง; gaaeng khaao dtang)
Khaao Dtang Rice Crust Soup (แกงข้าวตัง; gaaeng khaao dtang)
Gaaeng khaao dtang, deep-fried rice crust paired with clear broth and egg-stuffed chicken intestines. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
c1939 Chicken and Golden Raisin Curry - gaaeng khaaek yawaa - แกงแขกยะวา
c1939 Siamese-Javanese style coconut-based chicken and golden raisins curry (แกงแขกยะวา ; gaaeng khaaek yawaa)
gaaeng rawaaeng (แกงระแวง)
The Contrasting Histories of Gaaeng Rawaaeng (แกงระแวง) - Turmeric-Infused Coconut-Based Thick Curry of Braised Duck and Lemongrass
Gaeng rawang (แกงระแวง) is a curry bearing an unusual name and contradictory accounts regarding its appearance, lineage and origins. When I cook this dish, it is a rich and thick coconut-based curry made with a paste of fresh chilies, aromatics, spices and generous amounts of fresh turmeric, which adds warmth and gives the green chili color a slightly earthier, muted tone that resonates beautifully with the duck meat. The duck meat is prepared separately and slow-braised in coconut cream before being cooked in the curry. This slow-braising process allows the coconut cream and duck’s fattiness to melt together, resulting in moist and flavorful meat with a hint of sweetness. The curry itself is seasoned to a salty and slightly sweet flavor profile.
naam phrik roy rot
Salted Indian salmon chili relish (น้ำพริกปลากุเลาเค็ม; naam phrik bplaa goo lao khem)
Tamarind flesh chili relish
Tamarind flesh chili relish (น้ำพริกส้มมะขามเปียก; naam phrik sohm ma khaam bpiiak)
Roasted Fish Pae Sa (แป๊ะซะปลาเผา; bpae sa bplaa phao)
Roasted Fish Pae Sa (แป๊ะซะปลาเผา; bpae sa bplaa phao)
Bpae sa bplaa phao: clay-roasted snakehead fish with chili jam and tamarind dressing, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 palace-style manuscript.
naam phrik roy rot
Fermented shrimp paste relish with grilled pea eggplants (น้ำพริกมะเขือพวง ; naam phrik ma kheuua phuaang)
naam phrik roy rot
Kaffir lime chili relish and vegetables blanched in pork lard (น้ำพริกมะกรูดกับผักตีน้ำมัน ; naam phrik magruut gap phak dtee naam man)
Fiery Red Collared Dove Curry with Two Basils (แกงเผ็ดนกเขาไฟ; gaaeng phet nohk khao fai)
Fiery Red Collared Dove Curry with Two Basils (แกงเผ็ดนกเขาไฟ; gaaeng phet nohk khao fai)
Gaaeng phet nohk khao fai: red collared dove curry with carcass pounded into steamed meatballs, finished with two basils. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Stir-Fried Mock Pakchoi with Pork and Offal (ผัดกวางตุ้ง; phat gwaang dtoong)
Stir-Fried Mock Pakchoi with Pork and Offal (ผัดกวางตุ้ง; phat gwaang dtoong)
Phat gwaang dtoong: mock pakchoi fried and plated, then covered with pork offal simmered in bone stock until thick. Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1951.
Turtle Curry
The complete story of turtle curries in Siamese cuisine (เจาะลึกประวัติศาสตร์เรื่องแกงตะพาบน้ำ)
haaw mohk and ngohp
Haaw Mohk and Ngohp (ห่อหมก และ งบ)
mee graawp (หมี่กรอบ)
Sour-Sweet Savory Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Bitter Orange (Mee Krob) (หมี่กรอบส้มซ่าทรงเครื่อง ; Mee Graawp)
mee graawp sohng khreuuang (หมี่กรอบทรงเครื่อง), is an exquisitely regal dish of crispy rice vermicelli. The delicate noodles strands are washed and dried, then fried to a crisp light-golden hue. They retain their brittle crunch and airy texture even after being stir-fried with a clinging sticky sauce that encases the noodles in a thin layer of sheen. This sauce, mixed into the noodles together with other ingredients such as thin slices of pickled garlic and bitter orange peel, impart the dish with a light, fresh sweet and sour, and slightly salty and citrusy glaze.
Seasoned Rice Recipe
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across  all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued. In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
stuffed-roasted-duck-breast-
Roasted Stuffed Duck Breast with Chestnuts and Mackerel (เป็ดยัดไส้เกาลัดรมควัน; bpet yat sai gaolat rohm khwan), circa 1935
Smoked duck stuffed with a mackerel and chestnut filling is a dish that defies cultural boundaries. An exemplar of blended culinary influences, featuring inviting colors and an elegant presentation that serve as a prelude to the complex flavors and textures that await, the dish is an eloquent testament to the cooking style of Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag, who went by the pen name “the granddaughter of Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa”). In the 1930s. Mrs. Jeep Bunnag published her first cookbook. Following in the footsteps of her revered grandmother-in-law, Lady Plean Passakornrawong, she continued to document the art of Siamese cuisine through the treasured books she published and was known for her ability to merge culinary traditions into beautiful and innovative dishes that represent an era. The rich, dark color of the smoked duck’s skin is visually striking and appetizing, evoking a sense of indulgence and luxury. The smoky flavors that permeate the meat reflect our deep connection to primal cooking techniques, a fascinating juxtaposition to the refined presentation of the dish. When the smoked duck is sliced, its succulent pink meat is revealed, surrounding the golden filling of chestnuts and mackerel.
Airy Golden Cake (ขนมทองโปร่ง; khanohm thong pro:ng)
Airy Golden Cake (ขนมทองโปร่ง; khanohm thong pro:ng)
Khanohm thong pro:ng, a rice flour sponge baked in molds with whipped egg whites, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.
Young Jackfruit Salad (ยำขนุนอ่อน; yam kha noon aawn)
Young Jackfruit Salad (ยำขนุนอ่อน; yam kha noon aawn)
Young Jackfruit Salad featuring tender jackfruit stir-fried with coconut cream and aromatic herbs and dressed with chili jam. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript on Thai salad recipes.
Fresh Shrimp Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)
FShrimp Tom Bproong Soht Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)
Gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht: grilled shrimp with green mango and pickled garlic, seasoned at the bowl. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Shrimp-Topped Canapes (ขนมปังหน้ากุ้ง; khanohm bpang naa goong)
Shrimp-Topped Canapes (ขนมปังหน้ากุ้ง; khanohm bpang naa goong)
Khanohm bpang naa goong: fried bread squares topped with coconut-cream shrimp, garnished with semi-matured coconut in a cross. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
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