This is my take on the famous jungle curry from the Saen Tung district in Trat province. In Trat it is usually cooked with game meat and thinly sliced pineapple shoots (แขนงสับปะรด).
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Khing haeng (ขิงแห้ง) | Coriander root |
Zingiber cassumunar (ไพล) | |
Etlingera pavieana (raayo haawm) (เร่วหอม) | |
Holy basil flowers (ดอกกะเพรา) | |
Thai basil flowers (ดอกโหระพา) | |
Optional: Uncooked rice soaked in water overnight (khaao beuua) (ข้าวเบือ) |
The curry paste is based on the standard phrik khing paste into which three medicinal roots and the flowers of two basils are generously added, resulting in a hot, pungent, astringent and slightly bitter dish.
Middle: fresh khing haaeng ginger (ขิงแห้ง) (Zingiber mekongense Gagnep.)
Right: Etlingera pavieana (raayo haawm) (เร่วหอม)
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Ingredients
To braise the beef:
- 600 g beef (เนื้อวัว) cut into into relatively large and equal-sized pieces.
- 4 cups water (น้ำเปล่า)
- 1 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 1 stalk lemongrass (ตะไคร้)
- 5 slices galangal (ข่า)
- 5 pieces shallots (หอมแดง)
For the curry:
- 3 cups chicken stock (น้ำสต๊อกไก่)
- 1/2 cup pea eggplants (มะเขือพวง)
- 1 tablespoon fresh peppercorns (พริกไทยอ่อน)
- 2 cups bamboo shoots (หน่อไม้) shredded and cooked
- 1 fresh red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง)
- 8 kaffir lime leaves (ใบมะกรูด)
For the paste:
- 2 tablespoons dried boat bow shaped chilies (hua rua) (พริกหัวเรือแห้ง)
- 2 tablespoons fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด)
- 1 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 1 teaspoon kaffir lime zest (ผิวมะกรูด)
- 2 1/2 tablespoons lemongrass (ตะไคร้)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons galangal (ข่า)
- 1 tablespoon fresh sand ginger (เปราะหอมสด)
- 1 tablespoon Etlingera pavieana (raayo haawm) (เร่วหอม)
- 1 tablespoon fresh khing haaeng ginger (ขิงแห้ง) (Zingiber mekongense Gagnep.)
- 2 tablespoon Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- 3 tablespoons shallots (หอมแดง)
- holy basil flowers (ดอกกะเพรา)
- Thai basil flowers (ดอกโหระพา)
- 3/4 tablespoon fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ)
Instructions
Braise the beef:
- Slice the beef into relatively large and equal-sized pieces.
- Fill a pot with water.
- Add the aromatics – the lemongrass, galangal and shallots.
- Braise the beef over low heat, starting from cold. Keep braising until the beef is tender; add water if needed. The cooking time will vary depending on the age, quality and cut of the beef.
Pre-cook the bamboo shoots:
- In a pot with water and salt, bring the bamboo shoots to a boil. When the water turns yellowish, strain and change the water. Repeat two or three times until the bitterness of the bamboo shoots has mellowed down.
Prepare the curry paste:
- An overview of the curry paste ingredients.
- In a pestle and mortar, pound the curry paste; start with the chilies and gradually add the other ingredients, from the driest to the wet. Pound the paste to a semi- fine consistency. Set aside.
Cook the curry:
- In a pot, dilute the paste with chicken stock to the desired consistency.
- Bring the stock to a boil and cook it until the paste loses its rawness.
- Add the braised beef and continue to cook on medium heat.
- Add the bamboo shoots and cook them thoroughly.
- Add all the other ingredients and cook until the eggplants are fully cooked.
Coconut-Braised Sun-Dried Salted Beef with Bamboo Shoots (แกงต้มกะทิเนื้อโคเค็ม ; gaaeng dtohm gathi neuua khoh khem)
แกงต้มกะทิเนื้อโคเค็ม – In this dish, umami-charged, salted sun-dried beef is gently grilled over charcoal, adding smoke and caramelized elements that emerge in the core of the flavor profile, alongside the umami and the savor of fat. The meat is then cut into bite-size pieces, and slowly braised in thick coconut milk. The coconut fits perfectly onto the triangle of umami, fat and smoke. It brings its own umami and fatty shades, and introduces a rich sweetness that pairs seamlessly with the caramelized character of the grilled beef. The braising also rehydrates the beef and softens it. Bamboo shoots, shallots, galangal, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves are added, perfecting the dish with a complementary sweetness, echoing the umami hues, and cutting citrusy notes while creating hidden astringent layers. The dish is finished with fresh chili peppers and hair-thin julienned kaffir lime for a fresh aroma and piquant bite.
Beef Phanaeng Curry and Ancient Grilled Phanaeng Chicken Curry (พะแนงเนื้อ และ ไก่ผะแนง จากตำราอาหารที่เก่าสุดในสยาม)
Breaking news: The oldest Thai cookbook, as well as history’s first-ever recorded recipe for Phanaeng curry, are revealed for the first time on Thaifoodmaster.com – A 126-year-old cookbook written by one of Siam’s most revered singers, Maawm Sohm Jeen (Raa Chaa Noopraphan) (หม่อมซ่มจีน, ราชานุประพันธุ์), has been rediscovered, offering a unique glimpse into the culinary repertoire of 19th-century Siam. In this chapter we examine the different forms of phanaeng curry from the 1800s to the present day, as we reconstruct the 19th-century version and craft step-by-step a traditional beef phanaeng curry.
Swamp Eel Triple-Layered Red Curry with Fingerroot, Bitter Ginger, Sand Ginger and Thai Basil Flowers (แกงเผ็ดปลาไหลทรงเครื่อง ; Gaaeng Phet Bplaa Lai Sohng Khreuuang)
This eel curry includes a greater-than-usual quantity of aromatics used over three stages. First, the eel is cleaned and sliced into segments; then it is fried with a generous amount of lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and shallots. These help to counter its muddy and somewhat iron-like odor, which disappears along with the liquids and the aromatics.
This eel curry recipe is adapted from the vintage book: “Gap Khaao O:H Chaa Roht” by Ging Ga Nohk) (กับข้าวโอชารส โดย กิ่งกนก – กาญจนาภา พ.ศ. 2485). This rare book was written in 1942 during WWII, a period of global turmoil in which Thailand was invaded by the Japanese. That same year marked a decade from the ending of absolute monarchy rule in 1932, and one generation away from the peak of the Siamese culinary renaissance that flourished in the court of King Rama V (1868-1910): a nostalgic era for its children who are still with us to remember and reflect on those times.
c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
c1941 Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies (แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณอย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng phet baaep bo:h raan)
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
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