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khao-prasuri
Phra Suli - Three-Flavor Seasoned Rice with Shrimp, Firm Pork Fat and Pork Skin (ข้าวพระศุลี; Khaao Phra Soolee)
Mrs. Paan Nanthaathiwat (คุณปาน นันทาถิวัฒน์) (1893-1955) was known for her kitchen skills. She often cooked for friends and family, spending time in the kitchen with her best friend, Mrs. Yim Pichaiyat Bunnag (คุณยิ้ม พิชัยญาติ บุนนาค (1892-1976). Thus, it was not a surprise when in 1953 she authored a recipe book as part of her merit offering on her 60th birthday. Sadly, Mrs. Paan passed away a year later and the publication, titled Hoong Khaao Dtohm Gaaeng (หุ้งข้าวต้มแกง), was later printed as a memorial book for her funeral. In 1977, the volume was reprinted for the funeral of her best friend, Mrs. Yim. It is unclear why Mrs. Paan named this citrusy, sour, and salty seasoned rice dish after Lord Shiva, calling it “Phra Suli (พระศุลี ; phra soolee)”. Yet I believe the name of the dish is meant to evoke the elegance and delicacy of the deity rather than to reference cultural authenticity or tradition.
Royal Duck Spicy Curry (แกงเผ็ดเป็ดเสวย; gaaeng phet bpet suay)
Royal Duck Spicy Curry (แกงเผ็ดเป็ดเสวย; gaaeng phet bpet suay)
Gaaeng phet bpet suay, duck dry-sautéed before simmering, with kaffir lime and optional nutmeg in the paste. Delicious Side Dishes, 1935.
miang-bplaa-naaem
bplaa naaem (ปลาแนม) - A Siamese aristocratic small plate snack
c1935 Stuffed Potatoes with Bitter Orange Fragrant Beef Gaaeng Garee (แกงกะหรี่บรรจุมัน ม.ล. เติบ กำภู ; gaaeng garee ban joo man)
In Anglo-Indian cuisine, potatoes were used liberally in the curries; alongside the favorite sour chutneys, curries were also accompanied by fried, baked, boiled or mashed potatoes. Although the potato gradually found its way into many iconic Indian dishes, and even into Siamese cuisine, the tuber never replaced the rice of South Asia, despite the intentions of both the British and East Indian company officials. In the 1935 book Sai Yaowapa (ตำรับสายเยาวภา), Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) reflects the Anglo-Indian style gaaeng garee in her composition of bitter orange-fragrant beef gaaeng garee, which she serves in individual bowls made of fried potatoes, per a recipe recorded by M.L. Terb Gamphu (ม.ล. เติบ กำภู) and M.R. Tuang Sanitwong (ม.ร.ว.เตื้อง สนิทวงศ์).
Green Mango Salad with Puffed Fish (ยำมะม่วงปลาฟู; yam ma muaang bplaa fuu)
Green Mango Salad with Puffed Fish (ยำมะม่วงปลาฟู; yam ma muaang bplaa fuu)
Yam ma muaang bplaa fuu, green mango salad with snakehead fish grilled, air-dried, then lard-fried until puffed. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
น้ำพริกนครบาล
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.   However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
Baked Massaman (มัสหมั่นขาวอบ; mat man khaao ohp)
Baked Massaman (มัสหมั่นขาวอบ; mat man khaao ohp)
Baked Massaman, a molded rice dish with spiced beef and pickled garnishes. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of Thai tea accompaniments and snacks.
Taro and Crab Fritters (ทอดมันปูเผือก; thaawt man bpuu pheuuak)
Taro and Crab Fritters (ทอดมันปูเผือก; thaawt man bpuu pheuuak)
Thaawt man bpuu pheuuak: finely shredded taro and sea crab in coconut-cream batter, fried in flat molds. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Refined-Taste Roasted Duck Curry (แกงเป็ดรสนิยม; gaaeng bpet roht ni yohm)
Refined-Taste Roasted Duck Curry (แกงเป็ดรสนิยม; gaaeng bpet roht ni yohm)
Gaaeng bpet roht ni yohm, a coconut-cream curry of grilled duck soured with salt-soaked star gooseberries. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.
Stir-fried Crab with Seablite (ผัดกรกฏชะคราม; phat gaawn goht cha khraam)
Stir-fried Crab with Seablite (ผัดกรกฏชะคราม; phat gaawn goht cha khraam)
Phat gaawn goht cha khraam, sea crab stir-fried with seablite — a briny coastal herb — in garlic and pork lard. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Fiery Red Collared Dove Curry with Two Basils (แกงเผ็ดนกเขาไฟ; gaaeng phet nohk khao fai)
Fiery Red Collared Dove Curry with Two Basils (แกงเผ็ดนกเขาไฟ; gaaeng phet nohk khao fai)
Gaaeng phet nohk khao fai: red collared dove curry with carcass pounded into steamed meatballs, finished with two basils. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
khao-phat-garee
Golden Chestnut Fried Rice with Mint and Tomato (ข้าวผัดกาหรี่; khaao phat garee), circa 1935
Dating from the early 1900s, this tempting fried rice dish highlights how the Siamese aristocracy savored their golden rice, perfumed with an alluring blend of imported spices. The dish can be enjoyed on its own or as part of a larger meal featuring curries and soups.
Chuu Chee Curry with Climbing Perch (แกงฉู่ฉี่ปลาหมอ; gaaeng chuu chee bplaa maaw)
Chuu Chee Curry with Climbing Perch (แกงฉู่ฉี่ปลาหมอ; gaaeng chuu chee bplaa maaw)
Chuu chee curry with climbing perch — pan-fried fish in split coconut cream based chuu chee curry with kaffir lime leaves and coriander leaves. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.
Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut (ห่อหมกไก่มะพร้าวอ่อน; haaw mohk gai ma phraao aawn)
Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut (ห่อหมกไก่มะพร้าวอ่อน; haaw mohk gai ma phraao aawn)
Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut, featuring chicken cooked inside a coconut shell with a curry base of unpeeled peanuts and fermented shrimp paste. From Gingganok's 1948.
ขนมจีนญี่ปุ่น; Khanohm jeen Yee Poon
Fermented Rice Noodles, Shrimp and Pork Appetizer Dressed with Fried Chili Jam and Peanuts
(ขนมจีนญี่ปุ่น; Khanohm jeen Yee Poon)
Khanohm jeen yee poon is an appetizer consisting of a small roll of fermented rice noodles laid on a green lettuce leaf and topped with a slice of cucumber and cooked shrimp and pork belly, dressed with sour-sweet and salty fried chili jam, sprinkled with roasted peanuts and decorated with coriander leaf and a thin julienne of fresh red chili pepper. A squeeze of fresh lime juice is applied just before eating the dish.
miang kham ; เมี่ยงคำ
Miang kham - A royal leaf wrap appetizer เมี่ยงคำ
Each leaf-wrapped parcel is a kaleidoscope of flavors and richness, textures, aromas and sensations. Fresh green-earthy-chlorophyll-herby-tobacco-peppery wild betel leaves enfold bursts of flavor from nutty roasted peanuts and crispy roasted coconut matches, the umami of savory dry shrimp, pungent-sweet diced shallots, small ginger cubes with a warm bite, sour and bitter unpeeled lime cubes, citrusy perfumed diced bitter orange (som za), naughty whole fresh tiny bird’s eye chilies, and small slices of the sharp and sour dtaling bpling (Averrhoa bilimbi, a relative of the carambola/starfuit). All of which is blended with a thick paste of sweet-sour and salty palm sugar and tamarind sauce. The miang kham takes every taste bud on a fascinating pleasure trip through sweetness, saltiness, sourness, bitterness, and umami, piquancy, sharpness and spiciness, with an array of textures that slowly subside as the journey ends, leading to a familiar post orgasmic expression, a smile and the desire for more.
The Story of Gaaeng Buaan (แกงบวน) – The Oldest Siamese Dish?
seasoned fish sauce
18 Seasoned fish sauce condiments (น้ำปลาปรุงรส ; naam bplaap roong roht)
Side dish: Dressed Fermented Shrimp Paste (เยื่อเคยทรงเครื่อง; yeuua kheeuy sohng khreuuang)
Side dish: Dressed Fermented Shrimp Paste (เยื่อเคยทรงเครื่อง; yeuua kheeuy sohng khreuuang)
Yeuua kheeuy sohng khreuuang — kapi wrapped in banana leaf, ground fine, tossed with three eggplant varieties. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip, chicken curry with young shatavari fruit; paste fried in rendered coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
แกงหมูส้ม
(c1949) Sour curry of pork belly and shrimp with smoke-dried fish and young tamarind leaves (gaaeng muu sohm ; แกงหมูส้ม)
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