naam phrik roy rot
Fried fermented shrimp paste relish with green apples by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกลูกแอปเปิ้ลผัด อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik luuk aaep bpeern phat)
lohn
Salted duck eggs and shrimp creamy lohn (หลนไข่เค็ม ; lohn khai khem)
Lohn of salted duck eggs is a smooth, rich and creamy relish with a vibrant three-flavor profile of sour-salty-sweet. Unlike other lohn relishes, it does not contain any overbearing fermented ingredients, making it easy to enjoy, and it does not require an acquired taste.
Crispy Cooked Liver (ตับสุกกรอบ; dtap sook graawp)
Crispy Cooked Liver (ตับสุกกรอบ; dtap sook graawp)
Dtap sook graawp, pork liver boiled then deep-fried in a coconut cream batter with garlic and coriander root. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad (ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบเสวย; yam phohn gra jiiap sa weeuy)
Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad (ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบเสวย; yam phohn gra jiiap sa weeuy)
Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad combines wine-ruby roselle buds with pork and crispy aromatics in a bitter orange dressing. Components remain separate until serving, per Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript.
angel
Angel Visiting the Chamber: A Salad of Pomelo, Pork Skin and Shrimp with Chili Jam Dressing, circa 1920s (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง; yam naang faa yiiam haawng)
The name of this dish, yam naang faa yiiam haawng (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง), translates to ‘Angel Visiting the Chamber Salad’ in English. This celestial salad, which originated in the 1920s, is a playful chili jam-based salad that combines the textural gradients of pomelo, with its citrusy bursts, chewy cooked pork skin, and the sweet and slightly resilient cooked shrimp meat. The pomelo’s citrusy notes are further amplified with thinly sliced lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves sliced into hair-thin juliennes. I like to adjust the sourness and sweetness of the chili jam-based dressing based on the acidity of the pomelo. As our aim is to achieve a final sour-salty and sweet flavor profile, a sour-salty dressing is suggested if the pomelo is sweet, while a salty-sweet dressing pairs better with a sour pomelo.
แกงหมูส้ม
(c1949) Sour curry of pork belly and shrimp with smoke-dried fish and young tamarind leaves (gaaeng muu sohm ; แกงหมูส้ม)
Spicy Curry of Fowl and Royal Sprout (แกงเผ็ด ระกาพระหน่อ; gaaeng phet ra gaap ra naaw)
Spicy Curry of Fowl and Royal Sprout (แกงเผ็ด ระกาพระหน่อ; gaaeng phet ra gaap ra naaw)
Gaaeng phet ra gaap ra naaw, a red coconut curry with chicken and bamboo shoot, its name a zodiacal cipher, from Gingganok Gaanjanaaphaa, 1935.
c1933 Gaaeng Khuaa Phrik Baang Chaang (แกงคั่วพริกบางช้าง) Thai kua curry served with khanom jeen fermented rice noodles topped with pickled garlic
c1933 Khuaa Curry with Bang Chang Chilies (แกงคั่วพริกขี้หนูหรือพริกชี้ฟ้า; gaaeng khuaa phrik baang chaang): Princess Dissakul's Smoky Fish Curry Recipe
Princess Dissakul's 1933 royal Thai curry featuring secretly pounded smoked fish in rich coconut cream with Bang Chang chilies and aromatic phrik khing paste. This complex, smoky curry builds layers of earth and ember, traditionally served over khanom jeen fermented rice noodles and topped with tangy pickled garlic for a perfect balance of smoke, spice, and tang.
Ngohp Bplaa Chaawn
Rustic Grilled Thai Fish Curry in Banana Leaves (Snakehead Fish)
(ngohp bplaa chaawn ; งบปลาช่อน)
I love this straightforward grilled Thai fish curry in banana leaves because it packs a punch with its aromatic curry mixture that embrace the white and tender fish meat with great flavors. It is a great addition for any Thai meal and very easy to prepare. Snakehead fish, traditionally caught from irrigation ditches or flooded rice fields, benefits from the aromatic curry paste because it helps to eliminate unpleasant odors which wild caught fishes might acquire from their muddy habitat. Nowadays though, it is commercially farmed and one can safely cook it in various ways with no risk of those undesirable odors.
haaw mohk
c1908 Haaw Mohk steamed savory curried cakes featuring crab meat, chicken, and pork (ห่อหมกทรงเครื่อง อย่างท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์  พ.ศ. 2451 ; haaw mohk sohng khreuuang)
This festive and rich recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring chicken, crab and pork meats. This recipe was chosen from the various versions available at the time by Lady Plean Passakornrawong, for inclusion in her epic cookbook Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์).
Red Pickled Anchovies with Seasonings (ปลาแดงทรงเครื่อง; bplaa daaeng sohng khreuuang)
Red Pickled Anchovies with Seasonings (ปลาแดงทรงเครื่อง; bplaa daaeng sohng khreuuang)
Fermented anchovy relish with dual citrus, grilled shrimp, and salt-worked ginger served with raw vegetables and fried catfish. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
The Secret Healing Powers of Siamese Curries – A Closer Look at Gaaeng Yaa (แกงยา)
น้ำพริกนครบาล
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.   However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
Three-Flavor Crispy Egg Noodles (บะหมี่สามรส; ba mee saam roht)
Three-Flavor Crispy Egg Noodles (บะหมี่สามรส; ba mee saam roht)
Ba mee saam roht: deep-fried egg noodles topped with shrimp, pork fat, jicama, and pineapple in a sour-sweet-salty sauce. Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.
Grilled Catfish Parcels (งบปลาอุย; ngohp bplaa uy)
Grilled Catfish Parcels (งบปลาอุย; ngohp bplaa uy)
Ngohp bplaa uy, pla uy catfish sealed in banana leaf with aromatic herb paste and coconut cream, then charcoal-grilled. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Khaao griiap soht wi saeht: rice porridge spread thin on a khanom khrok griddle, filled with minced prawn and kaffir lime. Gingganok, 1935.
Tasty Beef (เนื้ออร่อย ; neuua araawy)
Spicy Curry with Beef-Stuffed Earthstar or Lactarius Mushrooms (แกงเผ็ดเห็ดเผาะหรือเห็ดยาง; gaaeng phet het phaw reuu het yaang)
Spicy Curry with Beef-Stuffed Earthstar or Lactarius Mushrooms (แกงเผ็ดเห็ดเผาะหรือเห็ดยาง; gaaeng phet het phaw reuu het yaang)
Gaaeng phet het phaw, foraged earthstar or Lactarius mushrooms stuffed with minced beef in spiced coconut cream. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
naam phrik roy rot
Salted Chinese black olive chili relish (น้ำพริกหนำเลี้ยบ; naam phrik nam liiap)
Heavenly Duck Curry (แกงเป็ดสวรรค์; gaaeng bpet sawan)
Heavenly Duck Curry (แกงเป็ดสวรรค์; gaaeng bpet sawan)
Gaaeng bpet sawan, a luxurious duck curry with salacca fruit and hairy-fruited eggplant. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 'Divine Dishes' cookbook, 1949.
Lattice-Wrapped Shrimp Bites (ล่าเตียง; laa dtiiang)
Lattice-Wrapped Shrimp Bites (ล่าเตียง; laa dtiiang)
Laa dtiiang: shrimp and coriander filling folded in a finger-drizzled duck egg lattice. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.
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