Central Plains and Bangkok Cuisine Archives

Fresh Shrimp Chili Relish (น้ำพริกกุ้งสด; naam phrik goong soht)

Naam phrik goong soht, a pounded shrimp relish with Songkhla tomalley paste, hairy eggplant, and salacca. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Phra Ram Long Song (Phra Ram Bathing) (พระรามลงสรง; phra raam long song)

Phra Ram Long Song, beef and morning glory blanched in stock over a tableside charcoal brazier, with coconut curry sauce. From Puang Bunnag, 1931.

c1935 Char-grilled banana blossom stuffed and baked with tamarind relish fried rice (ข้าวปลี ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; khaao bplee)

Refined-Taste Roasted Duck Curry (แกงเป็ดรสนิยม; gaaeng bpet roht ni yohm)

Gaaeng bpet roht ni yohm, a coconut-cream curry of grilled duck soured with salt-soaked star gooseberries. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.

Roasted duck curry with prunes and apples

Duck Curry with Prunes and Apples (แกงเป็ดกับพรูนและแอปเปิ้ล อย่าง ม.ล. เติบ ชุมสาย; gaaeng bpet gap phruun lae aaep bpeern)

When it comes to pairing fruits with meats in savory dishes, it’s hard to match the bold tangy-luscious combination of apples and prunes in this old-fashioned coconut-based spicy curry with braised duck. The dish is seasoned to a spicy, salty, and sour-sweet flavor profile, which is further intensified by the prunes’ subtle nectareous, savory-sweetness and the apples’ fruity, sweet-tartness. This curry is a perfect example of how fruits can complement the already complex and profound aromatic relationships between meaty-savory flavors, the curry paste’s aromatic identity, and the dish’s herbal character of Thai basil and fresh peppercorns – creating a most memorable flavor impression.

Fermented shrimp paste relish with grilled pea eggplants (น้ำพริกมะเขือพวง ; naam phrik ma kheuua phuaang)

c1908 Fermented rice noodles and golden coconut chicken sauce with an Indian flair (ขนมจีนแขก หรือ ไก่ต้มขนมจีน ; khanohm jeen khaaek)

Wild Boar Curry with Salacca (แกงหมูบป่าระกำ; gaaeng muup bpaa ra gam)

Gaaeng muup bpaa ra gam, wild Boar curry with sourness from both tamarind and crushed salacca. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's Divine Dishes, 1949.

Khaao bping - grilled banana leaf parcels filled with fermented shrimp paste relish seasoned rice, sweet pork, and crispy garlic (ข้าวปิ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์)

Khaao bping (ข้าวปิ้ง) is a dish of seasoned rice mixed with sweet pork and crispy fried garlic, then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals a slightly charred rice cake that melts into a pleasantly chewy, smoky, and deliciously savory treat. Created by using basic ingredients of Siamese cuisine, the dish can be served on a bed of banana leaves or on fine porcelain plates, thus touching the hearts of diners from all walks of life.

Young Jackfruit Salad (ยำขนุนอ่อน; yam kha noon aawn)

Young Jackfruit Salad featuring tender jackfruit stir-fried with coconut cream and aromatic herbs and dressed with chili jam. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript on Thai salad recipes.

Coconut Balls Rolled in Ground Roasted Unripe Rice (ข้าวเม่าบด ; khaao mao boht)

This ball-shaped dessert has a sweet coconut filling (gracheek), surrounded by a thin crust of pounded unripe rice crumbs, along with a tempting fragrance enriched with a Thai dessert candle or fresh flowers. Demonstrating brilliant creativity and attention to detail, this classical Thai dessert uses only three basic ingredients. In this article, we have elected to follow the traditional recipe published in 1908 by Thanpuying Plean Passakornrawong.

"Beautiful curry" – Clear Soup of Beef and Salted, Pickled Chinese Plum (แกงหงษา ; gaaeng hohng saa)

c1939 Chicken and Golden Raisin Curry - gaaeng khaaek yawaa - แกงแขกยะวา

c1939 Siamese-Javanese style coconut-based chicken and golden raisins curry (แกงแขกยะวา ; gaaeng khaaek yawaa)

Naam Yaa Jeen - Fermented Rice Noodles with Chinese Sauce by HRH Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (น้ำยาจีน อย่างกรมหลวงพิทักษมนตรี)

Among the various curries that can be poured over khanom jeen fermented rice noodles, this broth, known as Chinese-style “naam yaa,” is unique in that it is a water-based curry that does not have chilies. As such, rather than the typical reddish-rust color of most coconut-based naam ya dishes from the Central Plains of the Kingdom, the sauce glows with a soft, light ivory hue, beautifully reflecting the dish’s natural sweet-savoriness, which is derived from slow-braising three proteins – chicken, pork and shrimp – along with a curry paste galvanized by smoke-dried fish and aromatic roots like galangal, fingerroot and sand ginger. The naam ya broth is served over a bed of fermented rice noodles and garnished with toppings such as delicate pulled chicken breast threads, golden-crispy fried shallots and garlic, and vivid green fresh coriander leaves and spring onion. All these elements add a visual grace and a hint of freshness to the robust broth – the signature dish of Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (กรมหลวงพิทักษ์มนตรี).

Stir-fried Crab with Seablite (ผัดกรกฏชะคราม; phat gaawn goht cha khraam)

Phat gaawn goht cha khraam, sea crab stir-fried with seablite — a briny coastal herb — in garlic and pork lard. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Tasty Beef (เนื้ออร่อย ; neuua araawy)

Spicy Swamp Eel Curry (แกงเผ็ดปลาไหล; gaaeng phet bplaa lai)

Gaaeng phet bplaa lai: swamp eel sliced and tossed with its own blood, simmered in a pork-lard-fried red curry paste. Maawm Sohm Jeen, 1890.

c1908 Haaw Mohk steamed savory curried cakes featuring crab meat, chicken, and pork (ห่อหมกทรงเครื่อง อย่างท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์ พ.ศ. 2451 ; haaw mohk sohng khreuuang)

This festive and rich recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring chicken, crab and pork meats. This recipe was chosen from the various versions available at the time by Lady Plean Passakornrawong, for inclusion in her epic cookbook Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์).

"Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain" Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนครามแดง; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)

Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain Fermented Rice Noodles featuring a coconut sauce infused with roasted shallots, garlic and mung beans. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.

All-Purpose Sour, Sweet and Salty Chili Jam (Modern Version) (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผาสมัยใหม่)

Thai Chili Jam - This is a chili jam similar to what is commonly sold under the name of roasted chili paste (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา). It is widely used as a condiment in salad dressings, soups, and seasoning for stir-fried dishes. I like to have control over my pantry ingredients, so I always use homemade naam phrik phao. Furthermore, since it is a basic ingredient used in so many dishes, anything less than the best will drastically impair the quality of your dishes.

Crispy Rice - Khaao Graawp (ข้าวกรอบ อย่างหม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์)

Suan Sunandha Palace was the permanent residence of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (HRH Princess Saisawali Phirom, พระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์), the Royal Consort to Rama V. In the kitchen of Suan Sunandha Palace, the Princess presided over a peak era of culinary innovation until her passing on June 24, 1929. Reflecting her practicality, the Princess’ recipes frequently incorporated the era’s common pantry ingredients in new and surprising combinations. For example, in her boat-embarking chili relish (น้ำพริกลงเรือ; naam phrik lohng reuua), a relish still enjoyed today, the Princess pairs fermented shrimp paste chili relish with sweet pork, crispy fried fish, salted duck eggs and hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก). Another example is her gaaeng ran juaan (แกงรัญจวน) – the Princess prepares a vibrant spicy and sour soup, fragrant with the aroma of Thai basil, from the leftovers of a stir-fried beef dish and fermented shrimp paste chili relish, which she cooked together with lemongrass, shallots and garlic. Mom Chao Sai Ladawan’s recipes, many already recreated here at Thaifoodmaster, were recorded by Princess Sadap Ladawan (เจ้าจอมหม่อมราชวงศ์สดับลดาวัลย์), a key figure in the Palace’s culinary affairs, and subsequently compiled and published by Suan Sunandha Rajabhat University in a volume dedicated to seasoned rice dishes and chili relishes. In this dish called khaao graawp (ข้าวกรอบ), or “crispy rice” the Princess seasons cooked jasmine rice with chili jam, and adds four fried components, each highlighting a different element of the crispiness indicated by the dish’s name.

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