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A century ago, modernity and western ideas were permeating Siamese society across all aspects of life. In addition to the Siamese becoming more familiar with and adopting western dishes, Siamese cooks were exposed to a wide range of imported western ingredients that they deployed to produce old-fashioned Siamese dishes with contemporary accents. This relish is a vibrant example of this tasty and delightful cultural blend.
Green apple relish demonstrates that the classic chili relishes can be extended to incorporate any type of sour or sour-sweet fruits while remaining faithful to authentic Siamese flavors, even when using imported ingredients. This recipe is listed in Favorite Dishes, a book by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (อาหารของโปรด ของหม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล). The Princess was familiar with higher Siamese cuisine during the reign of King Rama V and VI and was renowned for her chili relish-making skills.
Pork lard is often utilized to fry the chili relish, preserving it for extended use. When frying the relish, pork fat cracklings are frequently added to give the relish texture and richness. This is an example of a chili relish that is based on the basic chili relish recipe, fried in pork lard, and uses an ingredient not commonly associated with Siamese cuisine – sour green apples.
For this relish, Princess Dissakul prepares a basic chili relish. She adds peeled sour green apple as a souring agent, along with other sour ingredients such as hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก) and green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น). When the relish is completed, she fries it in pork lard and adds pork fat cracklings, resulting in a light, fruity and tangy chili relish.
It is also possible to fry the relish in aromatic pork lard left over from frying crispy garlic, and garnish with crispy garlic.
Substitute the green apple with
- Green mango, for a fried mango chili relish (น้ำพริกมะม่วงผัด; naam phrik mamuaang phat).
- Madan for a fried madan chili relish (น้ำพริกมะดันผัด; naam phrik madan phat).
- Santol for a fried santol chili relish (น้ำพริกกระท้อนผัด; naam phrik grathaawn phat).
- Fresh vegetables,
- Fried steamed mackerel,
- Grilled catfish,
- Sweet pork.
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- 1/2 cup green apple (แอปเปิ้ลเขียว) diced into small pieces
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- 1/4 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 1/2 tablespoon dried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น)
- 1 tablespoon fresh red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง)
- 4 pieces fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด)
- hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก) diced into small pieces
- 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 1 3/4 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 1 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 1 tablespoon green mandarin orange juice (น้ำส้มเหม็น) optional /or
- bitter orange juice (som.saa)(น้ำส้มซ่า)
- 1 tablespoon pork fat cracklings (กากหมู)
- pork lard (น้ำมันหมู) for frying
- Peel the green apple and dice it into small cubes. Set aside.
- Measure the amount of fermented shrimp paste (kapi), garlic and palm sugar following the ratios of a chili relish recipe (น้ำพริกกะปิมาตรฐาน). Arrange the ingredients next to each other so you can visualize their proportions.
- Begin preparing the relish in a mortar and pestle the same way you would a basic chili relish – start by pounding the garlic with the kapi and add dried shrimp powder.
- Add the green apples. Using the pestle, mash them into a rough paste.
- Taste and season with salt and fish sauce. Once you are satisfied with the saltiness of the relish, add palm sugar at the ratio indicated. Season to a sweet-salty flavor profile.
- Season to a sour leading flavor profile using lime juice.
- Add the fresh chilies. Bruise them using the pestle to release the desired spiciness.
- Mix in all the sour and sour sweet ingredients: hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก) and diced green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น).
- Once you are satisfied with the relish seasoning, add pork fat cracklings, and fry the relish in pork lard.
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.
However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Tamarind flower chili relish inspired by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกดอกมะขาม อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik daawk makhaam)
This relish uses tamarind flowers – the flowers are in full bloom during the end of summer and the beginning of the rainy season. Tamarind […]
Jungle chili relish by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกป่า อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik bpaa)
Despite its name, jungle relish has nothing to do with wild animals or exotic ingredients foraged from a tropical forest. Made up from the most […]
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish – (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.