In Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s book “Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์)”, naam phrik laao chili relish was employed in various recipes. Rarely used anymore this relish was used as a seasoning agent for salads or as a dipping sauce for dishes such as grilled prawns and young neem tree leaves and flower buds (กุ้งเผาสะเดาลวก), and chicken or duck cooked with galangal in coconut cream (dtohm khaa; ต้มข่าเป็ด หรือ ไก่). Naam phrik laao was pushed out of the Siamese culinary repertoire and was replaced by a more contemporary styled fried chili jam and sweetened fish sauce dip (naam bplaa waan; น้ำปลาหวาน).
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Naam phrik laao is almost identical to tamarind flesh chili relish (naam phrik sohm ma khaam bpiiak; น้ำพริกส้มมะขามเปียก) but, instead of using fresh garlic cloves, naam phrik laao deploys very ripe garlic cloves that have been stored long enough to turn transparent ivory and yellowish in color.
Naam phrik laao is also known as “cooked garlic chili relish (naam phrik gra thiiam sook ; น้ำพริกกระเทียมสุก)” because when it was difficult to find soft, ripened garlic cloves that had not rotted, Siamese cooks substituted steamed garlic cloves for the ripened ones.
Tamarind flesh chili relish, cooked garlic chili relish, and naam phrik laao werebasic elements of Central-style Siamese cuisine and were used in diverse dishes such as salads (yam), mixed seasoned rice dishes (khaao khlook; ข้าวคลุก) toppings for crispy rice crackers (naam phrik thaa khaao dtang ; น้ำพริกทาข้าวตัง) and Central Plains-style rice salads (khaao yam baaep phaak glaang ; ข้าวยำแบบภาคกลาง).
In “Tamra Aahaan Waang”, a book printed in 1936 for the Royal Cremation Ceremony of Princess Mao Thongthaem (ม.จ.หญิงเม้า ทองแถม), the wife of His Royal Highness, Prince Thongthaem Thavalyawongse, the 34th Son of Rama IV, Princess Mao Thongthaem uses naam phrik laao in her recipe for Central Plains-style rice salad (khaao yam baaep phaak glaang; ข้าวยำแบบภาคกลาง).
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Ingredients
- 5 dried red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแห้ง) washed, deseeded, and rehydrated
- 1 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 15 cloves Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) steamed until soft, and then peeled
- 1/4 tablespoon tamarind flesh (เนื้อมะขามเปียก) minced
or alternatively
- 1 tablespoon tamarind paste (น้ำมะขามเปียก)
Season with
- 1/2 tablespoon lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 5 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
Instructions
- Remove the seeds from the tamarind flesh and mince it on a cutting board with a knife. Set aside.
- Steam the Thai cloves unpeeled until they are soft. Peel and set aside.
- Wash the chilies, remove the seeds, and rehydrate them in boiling water.
- Pound the chilies with salt in a mortar and pestle until the mixture is smooth, then add the garlic and tamarind flesh and pound to a fine consistency.
- Season with lime juice, fish sauce, and palm sugar to a sour leading sweet and salty flavor profile, using the ratios indicated.
Notes
2. if preparing naam phrik laao to season mixed rice dishes, make it somewhat runnier by diluting it with water.
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish – (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
Thai Chili Relish with Pork, Shrimp and Fresh Peppercorns (น้ำพริก พริกไทยสด ; naam phrik phrik thai soht)
Studded with small green peppercorns that burst with a mild peppery pungency, this relish is not as spicy as one might expect from a Thai chili relish – nor does the sour taste serve as a noticeable flavor pillar. Instead, a warmer and softer peppery bite, coupled with the aroma of young pepper, delivers a complex kick. The peppercorns, together with the flavorful yellow chilies, wrap the pork’s natural umami and fatty characters and enhance its natural sweetness; this sweetness, despite being placed far in the back and only appearing at the end of each bite, is nicely layered by the use of shrimp meat and palm sugar.
Thai Chili Jam – This is a chili jam similar to what is commonly sold under the name of roasted chili paste (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา). It is widely used as a condiment in salad dressings, soups, and seasoning for stir-fried dishes. I like to have control over my pantry ingredients, so I always use homemade naam phrik phao. Furthermore, since it is a basic ingredient used in so many dishes, anything less than the best will drastically impair the quality of your dishes.
Fermented Rice Noodles Served with Pineapple, Fish Balls in Coconut Milk, Grilled Curried Fish Cakes, Young Ginger and Dry Shrimp Powder
(ขนมจีนซาวน้ำ ; khanohm jeen saao naam )
For the khanohm jeen saao naam version that we present today, we turn again to the writing of Thanpuying (Lady) Gleep Mahithaawn for her unique take on the dish. Her version is quite similar to the common recipe encountered nowadays, but Lady Gleep enhances it with more ingredients, elevating the dish yet another notch to the level of a majestic masterpiece.
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