สูตรยำต่าง ๆ Archives

Angel Visiting the Chamber: A Salad of Pomelo, Pork Skin and Shrimp with Chili Jam Dressing, circa 1920s (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง; yam naang faa yiiam haawng)

The name of this dish, yam naang faa yiiam haawng (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง), translates to ‘Angel Visiting the Chamber Salad’ in English. This celestial salad, which originated in the 1920s, is a playful chili jam-based salad that combines the textural gradients of pomelo, with its citrusy bursts, chewy cooked pork skin, and the sweet and slightly resilient cooked shrimp meat. The pomelo’s citrusy notes are further amplified with thinly sliced lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves sliced into hair-thin juliennes. I like to adjust the sourness and sweetness of the chili jam-based dressing based on the acidity of the pomelo. As our aim is to achieve a final sour-salty and sweet flavor profile, a sour-salty dressing is suggested if the pomelo is sweet, while a salty-sweet dressing pairs better with a sour pomelo.

ยำแหนมข้าวทอด

The dish was introduced to me by a street vendor in forsaken part of town some twenty years ago. Auntie Yai was a true character. She was wearing intensive makeup and I still remember her talkative hilarious manner. I and other customers waiting in line were regularly subjected to nonstop "interrogations" or "interviews". I must admit I enjoyed the peek into other people lives while waiting over an hour for her mouth watering curried rice croquettes. I loved how the pungent, vibrant swirl of ginger was setting off the fermented pork sourness just perfectly, how the nutty crunch of those peanuts was balanced by the vivid tone of fresh herbs.

Mandarine Orange Peel Salad (ยำผิวส้มจีน; yam phiu sohm jeen)

Yam phiu sohm jeen features carefully prepared mandarine orange peel combined with minced shrimp and pork. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 royal Thai culinary manuscript.

ส้มตำไทยข้าวโพด

Bangkok's markets are busy from dawn until dusk, sometime even stay open when most of the city is asleep. Normally, the traffic of shoppers and crowds of office workers hurrying their way masks the busy stretch of shops and food stalls, making it difficult to pay close attention to details. Earlier this year, however, a strange silence had fallen on the city, civil unrest brought life in the city of angels to an eerie standstill, Bangkokians elected to stay home, and shops closed their doors.

"กุ้งแนม" หรือ "กุ้งซ่อนกลิ่น" - ตำรับเครื่องว่างที่สืบทอดมาตั้งแต่ต้นกรุงรัตนโกสินทร์

ตำรับเครื่องว่างที่สืบทอดมาตั้งแต่ต้นกรุงรัตนโกสินทร์: "กุ้งแนม" หรือ "กุ้งซ่อนกลิ่น". ลักษณะพิเศษของการทำ "กุ้งแนม" นั้น วิธีการหลักคือ การทำให้เนื้อสัตว์สุกโดยใช้น้ำมะนาวหรือน้ำส้ม Thaifoodmaster จะขอนำตำรับของ ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ มาบันทึกเอาไว้ ณ ที่นี้ สำหรับให้ท่านผู้อ่านลองนำไปทำดูนะขอรับ...

Yam "Goliath Special" (ยำ "โกไลพิเศษ"; yam go:h lai phi saeht)

Yam Goliath Special: eight boiled proteins — shrimp, pork, squid — dressed with pounded coriander root and garlic. Delicious Side Dishes, 1935.

Faux Frog Salad – A Salad of Coconut Braised Chicken with Young Coconut and Chili Jam Dressing (ยำกบเทียม; yam gohp thiiam)

Faux frog salad is a rich, elegant dish featuring tender chicken braised in coconut cream and young coconut flesh with a chili-jam based dressing. Utilizing an old-fashioned salad assembly technique – the ‘mix and layer’ – this is a visually striking salad with alternating layers of reds and whites. The name of this vintage dish – Faux Frog Salad – could be a reflection of the swinging social norms in Siam during the roaring twenties, a period of significant social change; as the country sought to navigate the challenges of modernization, Siamese society was shifting its dietary preferences away from the frog, once a common, versatile and popular ingredient. Thus, through the desire for distinction, chicken, an ingredient often compared to the taste of everything, was preferable to frog.

Mussel Salad (ยำหอยแมลงภู่; yam haawy maae lohng phuu)

Yam haawy maae lohng phuu, mussels tossed with lemongrass, kaffir lime, and toasted coconut. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's Salad Recipes, 1949.

Dressed Shrimp and Salt-Pressed Jellyfish (ยำกุ้งแท่; yam goong thaae)

Yam goong thaae, a royal Thai salad featuring shrimp and salt-cured jellyfish with multiple textures and proteins. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript.

ยำขมิ้นขาวกุ้งเค็ม

This dish brings yet another angle to celebrate the essence of Thai cuisine. The Thais dare pairing ingredients, which at first seem to be unmatchable, strong players with opposite characteristics, white turmeric and salted prawns, and guess what? It works beautifully! The pairing actually has the intention to enhance the differences in flavor and texture, creating a playful dish, both in taste and in presentation. The delicate thin cut white turmeric juliennes with its crunchy-apple like texture matched well with the just made salted prawns chunks which still maintain some of their intrinsic sweetness.

Thai Salads, The Professional Chef's Guide เรื่องยำๆ

Young Jackfruit Salad (ยำขนุนอ่อน; yam kha noon aawn)

Young Jackfruit Salad featuring tender jackfruit stir-fried with coconut cream and aromatic herbs and dressed with chili jam. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript on Thai salad recipes.

Yam Jin Gai: A Symbol of Tradition and Family Unity (ยำจิ๊นไก่; yam jin gai)

In the mountainous region of Northern Thailand, the people share a profound connection with the spirits inhabiting the land, trees and rivers. This bond extends to ancestral spirits residing within their homes, providing protection and guidance to the family. It is believed that food is not only shared among the living but also with those who preceded us, bridging the gap between the natural world and the ethereal realm of the spirits. It is in this context that yam jin gai (ยำจิ้นไก่) holds a special significance. Once a delicacy served only on special occasions, this soup-like salad has come to symbolize the enduring bond between the people of Northern Thailand and their ancestral spirits. Families pay homage to their ancestors with offerings of food, fostering a sense of unity and connection that transcends mortality and even the present; although the dish is included on the menus of many restaurants, its roots remain grounded in the spiritual landscape of the northern forests.

Yam of Chicken (ยำไก่; yam gai)

Yam gai: chicken simmered in coconut milk until dry, then dressed with mint, kaffir lime and green mango. Maawm Sohm Jeen, Tamra Gap Khao, 1890.

ยำกลีบกุพชกะ - ตำนาน "ดอกกุหลาบ" กับ เรื่องรัก 14 กุมภาพันธ์ แบบไทย ๆ

สูตรทำยำกลีบกุพชกะ อย่าง พระยานครราชเสนี - วันแห่งความรัก 14 กุมภาพันธ์นี้ ข้าพเจ้าเปลี่ยนความคิดใหม่แล้ว แทนที่จะพาครอบครัวไปฉลองข้างนอก เปลี่ยนมาฉลองที่บ้านดีกว่า จะลงปรุงอาหารคาวหวานจากดอกกุหลาบหลาย ๆ ตำรับให้เป็นธีม (theme) ดูท่าคงจะมีเรื่องเล่า จากดอกกุหลาบแดงช่อนั้นของแม่ลูกสาวข้าพเจ้าในโต๊ะอาหารเป็นแน่แท้... คิดแล้วก็ขับรถไป ฮัมเพลงไป เบา ๆ

Trinarong salad with ruby pomegranate seeds, translucent pomelo segments, and golden fried shallots glistening with lime dressing on a white plate

c1935 Trinarong Salad - Thai Three-Fruit Yam from Pathum Thani (ยำตรีณรงค์; yam dtreen rohng)

Central-style Thai salad combining pomelo, rose apple, and pomegranate with shrimp, chicken, and pork. From Ms. Booree Thohnsak's 1935 Pathum Thani memorial cookbook.

Sea Crab Phlaa with Crisp-Fried Potato (พล่าปูทะเล; phlaa bpuu tha laeh)

Sea crab phlaa dressed sour-sweet with pounded garlic and chili, tossed with flower-cut cucumber and topped with fried potato. From Puang Bunnag, 1931.

ยำผิวส้มซ่า

พูดถึงอาหารไทยแท้ไทยโบราณ ท่านรู้หรือไม่ว่า พืชชนิดใดที่คนไทยสมัยก่อนนำมาให้รสเปรี้ยวในสำรับอาหารมากที่สุด ? ถ้าเป็นปัจจุบันจะตอบได้ง่าย ๆ ว่าเป็น "มะนาว" แต่สมัยก่อนนั้น ไม่ใช่เลยขอรับ คนไทยอาศัยความเปรี้ยวจาก"มะขาม" มากที่สุด ใช้ทั้งยอดอ่อน ดอก ฝักอ่อน และ โดยเฉพาะมะขามเปียก แต่ทราบไหมขอรับว่า ส่วนใหญ่น้ำมะขามเปียกมักไม่ใช่องค์ ประกอบเด่นในอาหารไทย ตัวมะขามเปียกเอง ก็นำมาทำเป็นอาหารหลักไม่ได้ ไม่เคยมีตำรับ ยำมะขามเปียก แกงมะขามเปียก หรือ มะขามเปียกลอยแก้ว แต่อย่างใดเลย อย่างที่เห็นก็แค่เป็นเครื่องดื่ม ในกลุ่มน้ำปานะ ที่ภิกษุในศาสนาพุทธสามารถฉันได้ในยามวิกาล เช่น น้ำมะขาม

Passion Fruit Flower Salad (ยำดอกเสาวรส; yam daawk sao wa roht)

Passion Fruit Flower Salad, a delicate mix of floral elements with shredded pork, shrimp, and toasted coconut. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.

Citrus-Infused Crumbled Duck Egg Yolk Salad (ไขเค็มพล่า; Khai Khem Phlaa)

This vibrant salad combines the richness of crumbled duck egg yolks with the zesty notes of citrus and aromatic herbs. Set against a backdrop of aromatics, the crumbled essence of cured duck egg yolks glow in a delicate orange-gold shade, evoking a shimmering sunlit dawn. The cured yolks bestow a rich, briny base that acquires even deeper undertones when seasoned with fish sauce and sugar. This base takes on a luxuriously silky texture, reminiscent of a finely whipped mousse, when mixed with juices of lime and kaffir lime, which also give the mix a crisp, clean citrusy finish.

Bean Sprout Salad (ยำถั่วงอก; yam thuaa ngaawk)

Bean Sprout Salad featuring blanched sprouts tossed with pounded roasted peanuts and coconut in a coconut cream-vinegar dressing. From Ibrahim's Islamic Cookbook, 1933.

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