This grilled beef salad with luscious mangosteen (or grapes) is seasoned with a crisp, cooling dressing of fermented shrimp paste and mint. The mangosteen’s tropical character – a flavor redolent of many other fruits – dominates its fruity essence and is a perfect complement to both the grilled meat and the lingering, sour-salty-sweet, minty dressing. Furthermore, citrusy notes of thinly sliced lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, coupled with richness of thickened coconut cream, unite the caramelized, meaty elements with the dish’s fruity spectrum.
เนื้อหานี้ถูกล็อค
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Older Siamese recipes frequently exploited ripe, unripe, or sun-dried mangosteen for its natural tones of fruitiness, along with its sweetness and sourness, to echo the flavor profile of savory dishes such as curries and salads. This salad was created by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (หม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล แห่งวังวรดิศ), in the days before the Siamese revolution of 1932. Princess Jongjittanom supervised the kitchen of Bang Khun Phrom Palace and was closed to Queen Sukhumala Marasri and her daughter, Princess Sri Ratanakosindorn (สมเด็จพระปิตุจฉาเจ้าสุขุมาลมารศรี และ สมเด็จกรมหลวงศรีรัตนโกสินทร).
The use of mangosteen or grapes in cooking was perceptive – and also considered luxurious; many of today’s common fruits were difficult to obtain in the past and worth their weight in gold. But, in addition to their flavor, the inclusion of fruits in savory dishes offered a means of balancing hot and cold elements. For example, mangosteen and mint are used to offset the internal heat of the beef and fermented shrimp paste.
For the dressing, Princess Jongjittanom pounds fermented shrimp paste with garlic and a generous quantity of mint leaves. While Thai cuisine is renowned for its abundance of fermented shrimp paste-based relishes, it is rare that the fermented shrimp paste will take on the flavor of an Indian mint chutney or a British-style mint sauce, both of which have complemented roasted meat for centuries. The dressing is seasoned sweet with granulated sugar and palm sugar, the latter of which imparts a nutty, honey-like richness and complexity that accenting the mangosteen’s fruitiness
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Ingredients
- 200 g beef (เนื้อวัว) grilled, and sliced into thin pieces
- 8 mangosteen (มังคุด) / or
- grapes (องุ่น)
- 2 tablespoons salted thick coconut cream (หัวกะทิเข้มข้น)
- 2 tablespoons lemongrass (ตะไคร้) sliced thinly
- 1 tablespoon kaffir lime leaves (ใบมะกรูด) sliced into hair-thin juliennes
- 1 tablespoon mint leaves (ใบสะระแหน่)
- 2 teaspoons fresh red Thai bird’s eye chili (phrik kee noo) (พริกขี้หนููแดง) sliced thinly
For the dressing:
- 3 cloves Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- 1/3 cup mint leaves (ใบสะระแหน่)
- 1/2 tablespoon fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ) grilled
- 2 tablespoons salted thick coconut cream (หัวกะทิเข้มข้น)
- 1 teaspoon fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 1/4 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 1/2 tablespoon palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 1 teaspoon granulated sugar (น้ำตาลทราย)
- 1 tablespoon lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
Garnish:
- salted thick coconut cream (หัวกะทิเข้มข้น)
- kaffir lime leaves (ใบมะกรูด) sliced into hair-thin juliennes
Instructions
Prepare the beef:
- Roast the meat in a skillet over medium-high heat. Keep it at medium doneness.
- Let the meat rest for at least 5 minutes before slicing it into thin, equal-sized pieces. Set aside.
Prepare the fruit:
- Fill a large bowl with water, peel the mangosteens, and let them sit in the water until used. If you are using grapes instead of mangosteen, you don’t have to soak them in water, halve them and set aside.
Prepare the fermented shrimp paste and mint dressing:
- Begin preparing the dressing in a mortar and pestle by pounding the garlic and the mint leaves into a fine paste before adding the kapi.
- Pound the kapi, garlic and mint leaves into a fine paste.
- Taste and season with salt and fish sauce. Once you are satisfied with the saltiness of the dressing, add the palm sugar and granulated sugar at the ratio indicated. Season to a sweet-salty flavor profile.
- Add the salted thick coconut cream and mix well.
- Season to a sour leading flavor profile using lime juice.
- Add the chilies. Using the pestle, bruise them to release the desired spiciness.
Combine the salad:
- Before serving, mix the sliced grilled beef with the fermented shrimp paste and mint dressing.
- Add thinly sliced lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves sliced into hair-thin juliennes, hand-picked whole mint leaves, and thinly sliced fresh red Thai bird’s eye chilies.
Garnish:
- Garnish with a drizzle of salted thick coconut cream, kaffir lime leaves and fresh mint leaves.
Faux Frog Salad – A Salad of Coconut Braised Chicken with Young Coconut and Chili Jam Dressing (ยำกบเทียม; yam gohp thiiam)
Faux frog salad is a rich, elegant dish featuring tender chicken braised in coconut cream and young coconut flesh with a chili-jam based dressing. Utilizing an old-fashioned salad assembly technique – the ‘mix and layer’ – this is a visually striking salad with alternating layers of reds and whites.
The name of this vintage dish – Faux Frog Salad – could be a reflection of the swinging social norms in Siam during the roaring twenties, a period of significant social change; as the country sought to navigate the challenges of modernization, Siamese society was shifting its dietary preferences away from the frog, once a common, versatile and popular ingredient. Thus, through the desire for distinction, chicken, an ingredient often compared to the taste of everything, was preferable to frog.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Pomelo salad with salted shrimp and a lemongrass-infused coconut cream dressing (ยำส้มโอกุ้งเค็ม ; yam sohm o:h goong khem)
Multiple ingredients in a […]
c1889 Faux Rhino Skin Salad (ยำโขนงเนื้อเทียม หรือ ยำหนังหมู ; yam kho:h nohng neuua thiiam reuu yam nang muu)
This old-fashioned Siamese pork skin salad is adapted from an 1889 rhino skin salad recipe. It features thin glossy slices of cooked pork skin, simmered in rich coconut cream, and mixed with dried shrimp, roasted coconut, sour fruits; it is seasoned with chili jam-based dressing.
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