Celebrating the Art of Siamese Culinary Wisdom and Thai Cuisine
Crispy Cooked Liver (ตับสุกกรอบ; dtap sook graawp)
Dtap sook graawp, pork liver boiled then deep-fried in a coconut cream batter with garlic and coriander root. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Yam of Chicken (ยำไก่; yam gai)
Yam gai: chicken simmered in coconut milk until dry, then dressed with mint, kaffir lime and green mango. Maawm Sohm Jeen, Tamra Gap Khao, 1890.
Mung Bean khanohm Go (ขนมโก๋ถั่ว; khanohm go thuaa)
Khanohm go thuaa, a molded palace confection of dry-roasted mung bean flour and coarse-grain sugar, scented with jasmine and ylang-ylang. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
c1933 Manifold flavors curry – a chicken and pineapple spicy curry (แกงเผ็ดหลากหลายรส; gaaeng phet laak laai roht)
At first glance, this chicken and pineapple curry might seem ordinary or plain. After all, even though spicy curries with sour notes have been relished for ages, they feature repetitive patterns that could be viewed as common and perhaps uninteresting. However, with a calculated yet simple approach, this curry turns corners – quite literally – into a dish with a new flavor melody. It is thus referred to by its author, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), as laak laai roht, a “curry with manifold flavors (หลากหลายรส)”.
Buaan Curry of Wild Duck (แกงบวนนกเป็ดน้ำ; gaaeng buaan nohk bpet naam)
Gaaeng buaan nohk bpet naam, wild duck fried in lard then boiled in lemongrass leaf juice with no coconut. From Tamra Gap Khao, 1890.
Citrus-Infused Crumbled Duck Egg Yolk Salad (ไขเค็มพล่า; Khai Khem Phlaa)
This vibrant salad combines the richness of crumbled duck egg yolks with the zesty notes of citrus and aromatic herbs.
Set against a backdrop of aromatics, the crumbled essence of cured duck egg yolks glow in a delicate orange-gold shade, evoking a shimmering sunlit dawn. The cured yolks bestow a rich, briny base that acquires even deeper undertones when seasoned with fish sauce and sugar. This base takes on a luxuriously silky texture, reminiscent of a finely whipped mousse, when mixed with juices of lime and kaffir lime, which also give the mix a crisp, clean citrusy finish.
Full Moon Eggs (ไข่ดวงเดือน; khai duaang deuuan)
Full Moon Eggs, hard-boiled egg halves stuffed with ham, pork fat, and chicken, wrapped in caul fat and fried in lard. Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.
Sweet Pounded Unripe Rice Flakes Cereal with Coconut Flesh and Banana (ข้าวเม่าคลุก ; khaao mao khlook )
Sweet Pounded Unripe Rice Flakes Cereal - Rice harvesting takes place only once a year, and there are only two weeks where the ripening grains are suitable for producing Khao Mao.
Khao Mao doesn't age well, it gets dry and tough quickly. The-once-vivid beautiful green color that portrayed the essence of its immaturity and the beginning of the rice harvesting season, slowly fades away, along with its bread like scent.
Khanohm Jeen Naam Ngiaao - Shan-Style Tomato Broth over Fermented Rice Noodles with Pork, Chicken Feet and Chicken Blood Cakes (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
A popular noodle dish originating from the Northern region of the Kingdom, khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว) is characterized by its light – yet profound – multi-layered broth. This hearty broth includes an assortment of proteins braised with the dried pollens of cotton tree flowers, and Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม); the tomatoes infuse the broth with a subtle tartness that refreshes a full-bodied profile comprising a multitude of fermented ingredients.
The naam ngiaao broth is served over fermented rice noodles and features minced pork, and braised baby back pork ribs with their tender meat clinging to the bone. As well, there are succulent, slow-cooked whole chicken feet, and cubes of slightly bouncy, mauve-hued chicken blood cakes. Served alongside the soup are various toppings, which can include shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, chopped coriander leaves, and spring onions, while dark red chili oil and glossy, charred-fried dried bird’s eye chilies offer a fiery intensity dialed up to your preferred spiciness. In addition, I like to add wok-smoked sour cherry tomatoes and broom-like, crispy-fried dried cotton tree pollen for a surprising textural contrast.
Though the dish is often described as “Shan style”, the word ‘ngiao’ was a derogatory expression for the Shan people. As the disparaging – and outdated – label suggests, the recipe might reflect societal biases and prejudices; thus, at least from the culinary perspective, the ‘ngiao’ in the name of the dish may simply be a nod to the flavors or ingredients favored by The Shan, rather than a claim of authenticity – which could also explain why the dish is based on a Siamese curry paste.
Haaw Mohk and Ngohp (ห่อหมก และ งบ)
Coconut Batter for Fried Accompaniments (แป้งชุบเครื่องทอด; bpaehng choop khreuuang thaawt)
Coconut Batter for Fried Accompaniments, a rice flour mixture kneaded with limestone solution until glossy. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of Thai snacks and desserts.
Traditional Sampanee Confection (ขนมสำปะนีแบบเดิม; khanohm sam pa nee baep deerm)
Khanom sampanee, dry-roasted glutinous rice flour and coconut milk set by sugar recrystallization, scented with jasmine. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Sour-Sweet Savory Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Bitter Orange (Mee Krob) (หมี่กรอบส้มซ่าทรงเครื่อง ; Mee Graawp)
mee graawp sohng khreuuang (หมี่กรอบทรงเครื่อง), is an exquisitely regal dish of crispy rice vermicelli. The delicate noodles strands are washed and dried, then fried to a crisp light-golden hue. They retain their brittle crunch and airy texture even after being stir-fried with a clinging sticky sauce that encases the noodles in a thin layer of sheen. This sauce, mixed into the noodles together with other ingredients such as thin slices of pickled garlic and bitter orange peel, impart the dish with a light, fresh sweet and sour, and slightly salty and citrusy glaze.
Gaaeng Jao Dtao – An Aristocratic Sour Curry of Catfish with Young Tamarind Leaves, Fingerroot and Lemon Basil, with a Rustic Flare (แกงเจ้าเต่า)
Steamed Snakehead Fish Curry Parcels (ห่อหมกปลาช่อน; haaw mohk bplaa chaawn)
haaw mohk pla chon: snakehead fish steamed in banana leaf with one coconut pressed into three grades of milk. Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
Chiang Mai-Style Chicken Gaaeng Garee (แกงเผ็ดกะหรี่เชียงใหม่ ; gaaeng phet garee chiang mai)
I discovered this unusual curry recipe hidden in a 1970 memorial book for Ms. Bootree Gralaksa. Born in Bangkok in 1898, Ms. Bootree spent her entire life, from childhood on, in a wooden house on Maha Chak Road (Pra Nakorn). One could say that she was born to be a great cook; just fourteen years old when her mother died, Ms. Bootree became the sole caregiver for her four siblings, a duty that she performed with a love and attention that endowed her with remarkable cooking skills. Her memorial book showcases now-forgotten dishes that were popular in the Bangkok of the early 1900s, such as Beautiful Curry (แกงหงษา ; Gaaeng Hohng Saa), and also includes some of her one-of-a-kind culinary creations – such as this dish, which she dubbed “Chiang Mai-Style Spicy Curry”.
The Ambassador’s House Style Noodle Soup (หมี่น้ำบ้านราชทูต; Mee Naam Baan Raat Thuut)
This soup dish features crispy rice vermicelli noodles, a chicken broth that has a three-flavor profile infused with the aroma of bitter orange, and a plethora of other ingredients such as crispy fried tofu, chicken, pork, crab and pickled garlic.
In Thai, the phrase mee naam baan raat thuut refers to a rice vermicelli noodle soup in the style of the Ambassador’s house. The dish was not new when it appeared in the 1956 book Snacks, Tea Nibbles, Hors D’oeuvres and Drinking Food (ตำราอาหารว่าง - เครื่องน้ำชา และ เครื่องเคี้ยว หรือ กับแกล้ม) by Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), as noodle dishes were often the preferred ingredient for light meals or snacks. In Grandparents Recipes: 100 Years Old Recipes (จานอร่อยจากปู่ย่า สูตรโบราณ 100 ปี), a volume printed in 2014 that highlights recipes from the kitchens of fifteen prominent families, a similar version of the dish is referred to as mee naam baan bpaak naai leert (หมี่น้ำบ้านปาร์คนายเลิศ) and is associated with Nai Lert.
Stir-Fried Chicken with Cashew Nuts Recipe (สูตรทำไก่ผัดเม็ดมะม่วงหิมพานต์; gai phat met mamuang himmaphan)
The dish captures the eye with its vivid color – It is beautiful! It is bright! It is happy! - and it fits well within the comfort zone of most westerners. It is not surprising that this dish has made its way to the top of the charts, consistently ranked among the top ten tastiest Thai dishes served abroad.
bplaa naaem (ปลาแนม) - A Siamese aristocratic small plate snack
The Elegance of Khanohm Khaang Khaao (ขนมค้างคาว)
If palaces represent grandeur and wealth within a society, and poems often focus on emotional experience or the beauty of language, then the significance of a dumpling may be inferred by its structured elegance and minimalism – each fold and pleat a deliberate act, and each filling a curated experience constructing comfort in its most elemental form.
Khanom khaang khaao (ขนมค้างคาว) is a traditional Siamese fried, triangular-shaped dumpling with obvious Chinese origins. Its earliest recorded recipe can be traced back to Jao Khraawk Thaawng Yuu (เจ้าครอกทองอยู่), a distinguished aristocrat from the royal court of Ayutthaya. Historical records indicate that, from the early days of the Rattanakosin era, her recipe was a favored snack within the Siamese royal court.
These dumplings are shaped like triangles and, according to some, resemble bats: For this reason, they are called khanom khaang khaao (ขนมค้างคาว) – ‘the bat’s treat’. The dumpling’s dough is made from rice and mung bean flours; its filling is prepared by combining grated coconut and shrimp meat, which are cooked together into a dense, flavorful mixture that brings out the nutty-sweet taste of the grated coconut and the savory-sweet flavors of the shrimp. Kaffir lime leaves, sliced into hair-thin juliennes, add a hint of citrus.
c1935 Char-grilled banana blossom stuffed and baked with tamarind relish fried rice (ข้าวปลี ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; khaao bplee)
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