แกงนพเก้า
(c1908) nohpa gaao sour curry (gaaeng nohp pha gaao ; แกงนพเก้า)
แกงรัญจวน ; gaaeng_ranjuaan
Beef Curry Seasoned with Fermented Shrimp Paste Chili Relish (แกงรัญจวน ; gaaeng ranjuaan)
Gaaeng Ranjuaan is spicy, sour, sweet and salty beef curry seasoned with no more than fermented shrimp paste chili sauce. It should be served steaming hot, and must possess three distinct flavors, similar to fish Tom Yam soup. These modest ingredients and an intensely-flavored curry emerge from a story about love, things lost in translation and…leftovers.
faux-frog-salad
Faux Frog Salad – A Salad of Coconut Braised Chicken with Young Coconut and Chili Jam Dressing (ยำกบเทียม; yam gohp thiiam)
Faux frog salad is a rich, elegant dish featuring tender chicken braised in coconut cream and young coconut flesh with a chili-jam based dressing. Utilizing an old-fashioned salad assembly technique – the ‘mix and layer’ – this is a visually striking salad with alternating layers of reds and whites. The name of this vintage dish – Faux Frog Salad – could be a reflection of the swinging social norms in Siam during the roaring twenties, a period of significant social change; as the country sought to navigate the challenges of modernization, Siamese society was shifting its dietary preferences away from the frog, once a common, versatile and popular ingredient. Thus, through the desire for distinction, chicken, an ingredient often compared to the taste of everything, was preferable to frog.
Crispy Chicken Offal (เครื่องในไก่กรอบ; khreuuang nai gai graawp)
Crispy Chicken Offal (เครื่องในไก่กรอบ; khreuuang nai gai graawp)
Khreuuang nai gai graawp, chicken offal spiced with white pepper and nutmeg, deep-fried and served with kapi relish. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Chicken Curry with Fresh Lychee (แกงไก่กับลิ้นจี่สด; gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht)
Chicken Curry with Fresh Lychee (แกงไก่กับลิ้นจี่สด; gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht)
Gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht: coconut chicken curry with whole fresh lychee, added last to preserve its floral aroma. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
naam-yaa-nua
Naam Yaa Neuua – Northern Style Naam Ya according to Lady Plean Passakornrawong (น้ำยาเหนือ)
This fermented rice noodle dish is served with a slow-cooked, chili-less broth made from pounded fish meat and aromatics cooked in coconut cream. Creamy in color and velvety in texture, the broth is seasoned either with fish sauce, fermented fish or salted fish according to one’s preferences. The broth is allowed to slow-cook, achieving its full richness over a couple of hours. Once ready, the broth is poured over the noodles, which are then topped with a glossy-orangey layer of minced shrimp meat fried with their tomalley in pork lard. Complementing this richness are crunchy yellowish bean sprouts blanched in turmeric-tinted water, a sprinkle of sweet, golden crispy-fried shallots and, finally, green lemon basil leaves that endow the dish with a unique, rustic herbal persona.
dry curry แกงแห้ง
c1935 "Dry Curry" with beef over coconut infused jasmine rice (แกงแห้ง ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; gaaeng haaeng)
Beautiful Rice (ข้าวโฉมงาม; khaao chohm ngaam)
Beautiful Rice (ข้าวโฉมงาม; khaao chohm ngaam)
Beautiful Rice, turmeric-infused rice with crab and chicken served in hollowed tomato cups. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 Thai cookbook.
Fiery Red Collared Dove Curry with Two Basils (แกงเผ็ดนกเขาไฟ; gaaeng phet nohk khao fai)
Fiery Red Collared Dove Curry with Two Basils (แกงเผ็ดนกเขาไฟ; gaaeng phet nohk khao fai)
Gaaeng phet nohk khao fai: red collared dove curry with carcass pounded into steamed meatballs, finished with two basils. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
the story of chuu chee
The Narratives of Aesthetics and Patterns in Chuu Chee Dishes (เรื่องฉู่ฉี่)
Miang on Golden Trays (เมี่ยงถาดทอง; miang thaat thaawng)
Miang on Golden Trays (เมี่ยงถาดทอง; miang thaat thaawng) (กระทงทอง)
Miang thaat thaawng, palm-pressed fried pastry cups filled with crab, pork, pickled garlic, and bitter orange zest. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Celestial Beef Curry - Spicy Curry Simmered in Sacred Naliker Coconut Milk with Cannabis, Brandy, Pea Eggplant, and Two Basils (แกงเผ็ด คาวีสวรรค์; gaaeng phet khaa wee sawan)
Celestial Beef Curry - Spicy Curry Simmered in Sacred Naliker Coconut Milk with Cannabis, Brandy, Pea Eggplant, and Two Basils (แกงเผ็ด คาวีสวรรค์; gaaeng phet khaa wee sawan)
Gaaeng phet khaa wee sawan, spicy beef curry made with rare Naliker coconut milk, cannabis leaves, and brandy. From Delicious Side Dishes, 1935.
naam phrik roy rot
Salted Chinese black olive chili relish (น้ำพริกหนำเลี้ยบ; naam phrik nam liiap)
Gaaeng Jao Dtao – An Aristocratic Sour Curry of Catfish with Young Tamarind Leaves, Fingerroot and Lemon Basil, with a Rustic Flare (แกงเจ้าเต่า)
c1941 Roasted Duck Curry with Grapes (Gaaeng Ho) (แกงเป็ดเหาะใส่องุ่น อย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484; gaaeng bpet haw sai angoon)
Grapes have long been associated with prosperity, fertility and abundance across various cultures and historical periods due to the fruit’s large clusters and bountiful growth. In ancient China, grapes were considered a symbol of wealth and nobility, and often deployed as a status symbol among the elite. In Greek mythology, Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility, was often depicted holding a bunch of grapes, further emphasizing the connection between grapes and abundance. This association is also likely rooted in the fact that grapes were a valuable crop in antiquity – used to produce wine and other fermented products, and an important source of food and nutrition. In Indian Ayurvedic texts, grapes are referred to as vineaksha and utilized in treating a variety of ailments, including fever and indigestion. From the Siamese perspective, the incorporation of fruits in culinary preparations was viewed as a luxurious indulgence, as many fruits commonly available today were once difficult to obtain. Thus the pairing of an extravagant ingredient – such as fruit – with an equally opulent and exclusive delicacy like roasted duck resulted in a dish fit for royalty.
Stir-Fried Macaroni (มักกะโรนีผัด; mak ga ro:h nee phat)
Stir-Fried Macaroni (มักกะโรนีผัด; mak ga ro:h nee phat)
Mak ga ro:h nee phat, macaroni stir-fried with garlic-lard paste, pork, shrimp, and roasted peanuts. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip, chicken curry with young shatavari fruit; paste fried in rendered coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Chicken Satay (สะเต๊ะไก่; sa dteh gai)
Chicken Satay (สะเต๊ะไก่; sa dteh gai)
Sa dteh gai: chicken on sugarcane skewers with bacon, basted with cream and breadcrumbs, served with a stewed-apple dip. Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.
Goon Saa Lime-Cured Pork (กุญซ่า; goon saa)
Goon Saa Lime-Cured Pork (กุญซ่า; goon saa)
Goon saa: lean pork cured by lime juice and salt without fire, shredded and tossed with its own reduced pressing liquid. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.
Deluxe Cucumber Salad (ยำแตงกวาทรงเครื่อง; yam dtaaeng gwaa sohng khreuuang)
Deluxe Cucumber Salad (ยำแตงกวาทรงเครื่อง; yam dtaaeng gwaa sohng khreuuang)
Deluxe cucumber salad of bias-cut cucumber, boiled pork belly, shrimp, and sea crab in a three-flavor dressing. From Princess Jongjittanom, 1978.
grilled beef mangosteen salad
Grilled beef and mangosteen (or grape) salad with mint dressing, by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (ยำเนื้อย่างกับมังคุดหรือองุ่น; yam neuua yaang gap mangkhoot reuu angoon)
This grilled beef salad with luscious mangosteen (or grapes) is seasoned with a crisp, cooling dressing of fermented shrimp paste and mint. The mangosteen’s tropical character – a flavor redolent of many other fruits – dominates its fruity essence and is a perfect complement to both the grilled meat and the lingering, sour-salty-sweet, minty dressing. Furthermore, citrusy notes of thinly sliced lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, coupled with richness of thickened coconut cream, unite the caramelized, meaty elements with the dish’s fruity spectrum.
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