Into the woods - the story of jungle curry
Into The Woods – The Story of Jungle Curry (แกงป่า; gaaeng bpaa)
lohn
c1933 Luxurious lohn relish (น้ำพริกหลนหรู อย่าง จีบ บุนนาค เจ้าของนามปากกา "หลานแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์" พ.ศ. 2476 ; naam phrik lohn ruu)
A simple yet fun version of lohn relish is presented by Lady Plean’s granddaughter-in-law, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), in her 1933 book Sam Rap Raawp Bpee (สำรับรอบปี).
แกงรัญจวน ; gaaeng_ranjuaan
Beef Curry Seasoned with Fermented Shrimp Paste Chili Relish (แกงรัญจวน ; gaaeng ranjuaan)
Gaaeng Ranjuaan is spicy, sour, sweet and salty beef curry seasoned with no more than fermented shrimp paste chili sauce. It should be served steaming hot, and must possess three distinct flavors, similar to fish Tom Yam soup. These modest ingredients and an intensely-flavored curry emerge from a story about love, things lost in translation and…leftovers.
Stir-Fried Duck or Chicken with Peas (ผัดเป็ดผัดไก่; phat bpet phat gai)
Stir-Fried Duck or Chicken with Peas (ผัดเป็ดผัดไก่; phat bpet phat gai)
Phat bpet phat gai, duck or chicken stir-fried over caramelized soybean paste and lard, peas kept crisp. Maawm Sohm Jeen, Tamra Gap Khao, 1890.
Pork Stomach Soup (แกงกะเพาะหมู; gaaeng ga phaw muu)
Pork Stomach Soup (แกงกะเพาะหมู; gaaeng ga phaw muu)
Gaaeng ga phaw muu: pork stomach and chicken broth built in two stages with a fried coriander-root pounding. Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.
Shrimp Ball Soup (แกงลูกชิ้นกุ้ง; gaaeng luuk chin goong)
Shrimp Ball Soup (แกงลูกชิ้นกุ้ง; gaaeng luuk chin goong)
Gaaeng luuk chin goong, shrimp balls pounded and slapped for springy texture in clear broth with garland chrysanthemum. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Khaao Dtang Rice Crust Soup (แกงข้าวตัง; gaaeng khaao dtang)
Khaao Dtang Rice Crust Soup (แกงข้าวตัง; gaaeng khaao dtang)
Gaaeng khaao dtang, deep-fried rice crust paired with clear broth and egg-stuffed chicken intestines. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Rose-petal-salad ; ยำกลีบกุพชกะ
Rose Petals Salad (ยำกลีบกุพชกะ ; yam gleep goop cha ga)
Chef Thapakorn Lertviriyavit (Gorn) brings us a rare perfumed and colorful starter [salad] dish that was rediscovered in a cookbook written by a former governor of Nakhon Ratchasima (พระยานครราชเสนี - สหัด สิงหเสนี), which contained a recipe that called for rose petals, called ‘Yum Gularb' or ‘Rose Petal Salad'. But I'd prefer to rename it, ‘Yum Gleep Kuppatchka'. You will soon understand why....
Side dish - Birds Resting in the Nest (นกนอนรัง; nohk naawn rang)
Side dish - Birds Resting in the Nest (นกนอนรัง; nohk naawn rang)
Birds Resting in the Nest, baya weavers stuffed with peppery pork and draped in fine duck egg threads. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Dry-Fried Salted Spanish Mackerel Relish (ปลาอินทรีคั่ว; bplaa in see khuaa)
Dry-Fried Salted Spanish Mackerel Relish (ปลาอินทรีคั่ว; bplaa in see khuaa)
Bplaa in see khuaa — grilled salted mackerel pounded with seven aromatics, fried in roasted coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Mild soup with prawn balls and Chinese cabbage (แกงจืดลูกชิ้นกุ้งกับผักกาดปลี; gaaeng jeuut luuk chin goong gap phak gaat bplee)
Mild soup with prawn balls and Chinese cabbage (แกงจืดลูกชิ้นกุ้งกับผักกาดปลี; gaaeng jeuut luuk chin goong gap phak gaat bplee)
Gaaeng jeuut with steamed prawn-and-cabbage rolls in a clear shiitake broth with fried garlic, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.
Spicy Curry of Deep-Sea Shrimp and Pumpkin (แกงเผ็ดกุ้งกับฟักเหลือง; gaaeng phet goong gap fak leuuang)
Spicy Curry of Deep-Sea Shrimp and Pumpkin (แกงเผ็ดกุ้งกับฟักเหลือง; gaaeng phet goong gap fak leuuang)
Gaaeng phet goong gap fak leuuang, soft-shell shrimp and skin-on pumpkin in coconut milk, the paste fried in coconut fat. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Royal Precept Curry (แกงทรงศีล; gaaeng sohng seen)
Royal Precept Curry (แกงทรงศีล; gaaeng sohng seen)
Royal Precept Curry, a vegetarian coconut curry with tofu and Thai basil, created for Buddhist observance days in palace kitchens. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.
Curry of Black Ear Catfish or Iridescent Shark with Lemon Basil (แกงปลาเทโพหรือปลาสวายกับใบแมงลัก; gaaeng bplaa thaeh pho:h reuu bplaa sawaai gap bai maaeng lak)
Curry of Black Ear Catfish or Iridescent Shark with Lemon Basil (แกงปลาเทโพหรือปลาสวายกับใบแมงลัก; gaaeng bplaa thaeh pho:h reuu bplaa sawaai gap bai maaeng lak)
Gaaeng bplaa thaeh phoh, water-based catfish curry with lemon basil, tamarind, and a pounded dry spice paste. Mrs. Paan Nanthaaphiwat, 1953.
faux-frog-salad
Faux Frog Salad – A Salad of Coconut Braised Chicken with Young Coconut and Chili Jam Dressing (ยำกบเทียม; yam gohp thiiam)
Faux frog salad is a rich, elegant dish featuring tender chicken braised in coconut cream and young coconut flesh with a chili-jam based dressing. Utilizing an old-fashioned salad assembly technique – the ‘mix and layer’ – this is a visually striking salad with alternating layers of reds and whites. The name of this vintage dish – Faux Frog Salad – could be a reflection of the swinging social norms in Siam during the roaring twenties, a period of significant social change; as the country sought to navigate the challenges of modernization, Siamese society was shifting its dietary preferences away from the frog, once a common, versatile and popular ingredient. Thus, through the desire for distinction, chicken, an ingredient often compared to the taste of everything, was preferable to frog.
ม้งกรคาบแก้ว กับ ม้าฮ่อ ; mohng gaawn khaap gaaeo + maa haaw
Galloping horse & Crystal Dragon - Fruits Served with Sweet and Savory Peanut Sauce (มังกรคาบแก้ว กับ ม้าฮ่อ ; mohng gaawn khaap gaaeo + maa haaw)
Sweet and sour fruit slices are served with a nutty, sweet-savory peanut sauce condiment that balances the fruits’ natural tartness, and decorated with coriander leaves and julienned fresh long red pepper for a sophisticated finish. The paste-like condiment is typically made from the Three Kings of Thai cuisine (coriander root, garlic and ground white pepper) fried together with chopped shallots, minced pork belly and shrimp meat, along with crushed roasted peanuts, and seasoned with fish sauce [or salt], and palm sugar.
ต้มข่าเป็ดแบบโบราณ ; An ancient Siamese recipe of Tom Kha Bpet (duck)
An Ancient Siamese Recipe for Tom Kha Pet (1890 AD) Duck Simmered in Light Coconut Cream and Young Galangal, and Served with Sour-Sweet Roasted Chili Jam
(Tom Kha Bpet; ต้มข่าเป็ด จิ้มน้ำพริกเผาแบบโบราณ)
Tom kha is a well-known and much-loved Thai soup: a creamy, soothing coconut blend, a warm, silky broth in which chicken, mainly, is simmered with young galangal, mushrooms, and, at times, charred-grilled banana blossoms. In other versions, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves are added, blurring the boundaries between tom kha and the coconut-based tom yam soup (tom yum kati; ต้มยำกะทิ). However, in the late 19th century, tom kha was not a soup at all: it was a dish of chicken or duck simmered in a light coconut broth with a generous amount of galangal. The coconut broth added sweetness to the meat, and the galangal helped to mellow the meat odor. It was then served with a basic roasted chili jam as a dipping relish seasoned along the salty-sour-sweet spectrum.
Crispy Cooked Liver (ตับสุกกรอบ; dtap sook graawp)
Crispy Cooked Liver (ตับสุกกรอบ; dtap sook graawp)
Dtap sook graawp, pork liver boiled then deep-fried in a coconut cream batter with garlic and coriander root. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Spicy Curry of Single Catfish (แกงเผ็ดปลาดุกโสด; gaaeng phet bplaa dook so:ht)
Spicy Curry of Single Catfish (แกงเผ็ดปลาดุกโสด; gaaeng phet bplaa dook so:ht)
Gaaeng phet bplaa dook so:ht, spicy catfish curry with snakehead fish pounded into the paste, pickled bamboo shoots, and tamarind. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Perplexing Mee Suaa (หมี่สั้วฉงน; mee suaa cha ngohn)
Perplexing Mee Suaa (หมี่สั้วฉงน; mee suaa cha ngohn)
Mee suaa cha ngohn: wheat noodle bundles bound with shrimp-corn paste, steamed, served in clear pork-crab broth. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
naam phrik roy rot
Pickled bean curd chili relish (น้ำพริกเต้าหู้ยี้; naam phrik dtao huu yee)
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