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Date Palm in Coconut Milk (อินทผาลัมน้ำกะทิ; in tpha lam naam ga thi)
Date Palm in Coconut Milk (อินทผาลัมน้ำกะทิ; in tpha lam naam ga thi)
In tpha lam naam ga thi, date palm hand-torn and served in freshly pressed coconut milk, lightly salted. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
The Elegance of Khanohm Khaang Khaao (ขนมค้างคาว)
If palaces represent grandeur and wealth within a society, and poems often focus on emotional experience or the beauty of language, then the significance of a dumpling may be inferred by its structured elegance and minimalism – each fold and pleat a deliberate act, and each filling a curated experience constructing comfort in its most elemental form. Khanom khaang khaao (ขนมค้างคาว) is a traditional Siamese fried, triangular-shaped dumpling with obvious Chinese origins. Its earliest recorded recipe can be traced back to Jao Khraawk Thaawng Yuu (เจ้าครอกทองอยู่), a distinguished aristocrat from the royal court of Ayutthaya. Historical records indicate that, from the early days of the Rattanakosin era, her recipe was a favored snack within the Siamese royal court. These dumplings are shaped like triangles and, according to some, resemble bats: For this reason, they are called khanom khaang khaao (ขนมค้างคาว) – ‘the bat’s treat’. The dumpling’s dough is made from rice and mung bean flours; its filling is prepared by combining grated coconut and shrimp meat, which are cooked together into a dense, flavorful mixture that brings out the nutty-sweet taste of the grated coconut and the savory-sweet flavors of the shrimp. Kaffir lime leaves, sliced into hair-thin juliennes, add a hint of citrus.
Beautiful curry แกงหงษา
"Beautiful curry" – Clear Soup of Beef and Salted, Pickled Chinese Plum (แกงหงษา ; gaaeng hohng saa)
jungle-1908
History's first-ever recorded recipe for jungle curry by Lady Plean Passakornrawong, circa 1908 (ปลาดุกแกงป่า อย่าง ท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงศ์ ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์; bplaa duuk gaaeng bpaa)
This is a coconut-based jungle curry of catfish featuring fresh green chilies, sand ginger and an upcountry herbal charm.
gaaeng_sohm_raang_roong
(c1932) Sour water-based curry of pork, salted fish and vegetables blanched in pork lard (gaaeng sohm raang roong ; แกงส้มร่างรุ้ง แกงส้มหมูกับปลาเค็มใส่ผักตี่น้ำมัน )
Pork liver and firm pork fat fried in batter (มันสลับตับสุกร; man salap dtap soogaawn)
Pork liver and firm pork fat fried in batter (มันสลับตับสุกร; man salap dtap soogaawn)
Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณ
c1941 Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies (แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณอย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng phet baaep bo:h raan)
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
Fresh Shrimp Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)
FShrimp Tom Bproong Soht Curry Soup (แกงต้มกุ้งปรุงสด; gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht)
Gaaeng dtohm goong bproong soht: grilled shrimp with green mango and pickled garlic, seasoned at the bowl. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
naam phrik roy rot
Pickled bean curd chili relish (น้ำพริกเต้าหู้ยี้; naam phrik dtao huu yee)
ยำผิวส้มส้า ; Salad of bitter orange peels (sohm saa)
Salad of bitter orange peels, shrimp, poached pork belly and pork skin, roasted peanuts, golden deep-fried crispy shallots and garlic with sweet and sour tamarind dressing.
(ยำผิวส้มซ่า ; yam phiu sohm saa)
This salad recipe is adapted from the book “Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa” (แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์), published in 1971 as a memorial for Jao Jaawm Phit (เจ้าจอมพิศว์). Jao Jaawm Phit was the daughter of Thanpuying (Lady) Plean Passakornrawong, who was a pioneer of noble Thai cuisine.
Bite-Sized Fried Shrimp-Rice Cake Parcels Wrapped With Fresh Garnishes in Cabbage Leaves
Bite-Sized Fried Shrimp-Rice Cake Parcels Wrapped With Fresh Garnishes in Cabbage Leaves (ส้มผักสด; sohm phak soht)
Sohm phak soht: coconut-battered fried shrimp-rice cakes wrapped in Chinese cabbage with pickled ginger, peanuts, shallots, lime and bitter orange. Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.
Dtohm Hohk Uuhr of Snakeskin Gourami (ต้มโฮกเออ; dtohm ho:hk uuhr)
Dtohm Hohk Uuhr of Snakeskin Gourami (ต้มโฮกเออ; dtohm ho:hk uuhr)
Dtohm hohk uuhr, snakeskin gourami soup soured with young tamarind leaves and twenty to thirty bruised bird chilies. From Maawm Sohm Jeen, 1890.
Stir-Fried Duck or Chicken with Peas (ผัดเป็ดผัดไก่; phat bpet phat gai)
Stir-Fried Duck or Chicken with Peas (ผัดเป็ดผัดไก่; phat bpet phat gai)
Phat bpet phat gai, duck or chicken stir-fried over caramelized soybean paste and lard, peas kept crisp. Maawm Sohm Jeen, Tamra Gap Khao, 1890.
Steamed Stuffed Winter Melon Clear Soup (แกงจืดฟักเขียวตุ๋น; gaaeng jeuut fak khiaao dtoon)
Steamed Stuffed Winter Melon Clear Soup (แกงจืดฟักเขียวตุ๋น; gaaeng jeuut fak khiaao dtoon)
Steamed Stuffed Winter Melon Clear Soup, a refined royal Thai dish featuring hollowed winter melon filled with crab, pork, and egg sausage. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.
Gaawy goong suay (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย)
Gaawy goong suay (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย) - Old-fashioned chili relish enriched with shrimp tomalley and flaky acid-cooked shrimp meat
Scented Cassava-Starch Diamonds in Coconut Milk (มันสำปะหลังยอหยา; man sam bpa lang yaaw yaa)
Scented Cassava-Starch Diamonds in Coconut Milk (มันสำปะหลังยอหยา; man sam bpa lang yaaw yaa)
Man sam bpa lang yaaw yaa: cassava starch diamonds kneaded with pandan, served in floral-scented coconut milk. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Chicken Curry with Fresh Lychee (แกงไก่กับลิ้นจี่สด; gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht)
Chicken Curry with Fresh Lychee (แกงไก่กับลิ้นจี่สด; gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht)
Gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht: coconut chicken curry with whole fresh lychee, added last to preserve its floral aroma. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Yogurt-Based Ancient Green Curry with Chicken Offal (แกงเขียว; gaaeng khiaao)
Mrs. Yim Pichaiyat Bunnag (คุณยิ้ม พิชัยญาติ บุนนาค)'s 1920s aristocratic green curry reveals a forgotten chapter in Thai culinary history. This Muslim-style recipe uses ghee and yogurt instead of coconut milk, featuring chicken offal—liver, gizzard, and heart—each contributing distinct textures and concentrated flavors. Roasted spices like cinnamon, clove, and cardamom create warming aromatics, while fresh chilies provide signature heat. The dish documents how Bangkok's noble kitchens adapted Islamic cooking techniques before democratization, preserving methods that would shape modern Thai cuisine.
naam phrik roy rot
Fried fermented shrimp paste relish with green apples by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกลูกแอปเปิ้ลผัด อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik luuk aaep bpeern phat)
naam phrik roy rot
Kaffir lime chili relish and vegetables blanched in pork lard (น้ำพริกมะกรูดกับผักตีน้ำมัน ; naam phrik magruut gap phak dtee naam man)
salted fish pork mango-relish
Pork Belly Coated with Salted-Fish and Green Mango Chili Relish (น้ำพริกมะม่วง หมูเคลือบเค็ม พ.ศ. 2476; naam phrik ma muaang mu khleuuap khem)
In this dish, slices of pork belly are coated with a sticky sauce; the sauce is reduced from braising a slice of grilled salted fish with coriander roots, garlic and white peppercorns (saam gluuhr). The dish is served with a sour-leading green mango chili relish that adds tartness with fiery accents to the saltiness of the pork. The salted fish gives the pork an initial fishy aroma that, although robust, gives way to a sense of home as it merges into the sourness and fruitiness of the mango chili relish. As an ingredient commonly used in the kitchens of rice-growing communities, salted fish signifies a comforting familiarity that conveys simplicity and warmth to the table. I like to pair the salted, fishy pork with seasoned rice dishes in which sour-leading relishes are mixed with rice along with other condiments.
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