Studded with small green peppercorns that burst with a mild peppery pungency, this relish is not as spicy as one might expect from a Thai chili relish – nor does the sour taste serve as a noticeable flavor pillar. Instead, a warmer and softer peppery bite, coupled with the aroma of young pepper, delivers a complex kick. The peppercorns, together with the flavorful yellow chilies, wrap the pork’s natural umami and fatty characters and enhance its natural sweetness; this sweetness, despite being placed far in the back and only appearing at the end of each bite, is nicely layered by the use of shrimp meat and palm sugar.
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The relish can be served either as a dip with an assortment of leaves and vegetables, with a Thai omelet or soft-boiled eggs, or just mixed with rice for a delicious meal.
This recipe is attributed to ML. Klong Chaiyan (Sanitwong) (หม่อมหลวงคลอง ไชยันต์) (สนิทวงศ์) who served as a personal secretary to Queen Rambhai Barni of Siam (the wife of King Rama 7). The recipe is also listed in the book, Favorite Dishes, by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (อาหารของโปรด ของหม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล)
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Ingredients
- 1/2 cup pork belly (เนื้อหมูสามชั้น) cut into small pieces
- 1/2 cup shrimp (กุ้ง) peeled and deveined
- 3 tablespoons fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ) kapi, grilled
- 3 tablespoons Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) peeled
- 3 tablespoons dried shrimp (กุ้งแห้ง) pounded
- 10 fresh yellow chili (phrik leuang) (พริกเหลือง)
- 10 fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด)
- 4 tablespoons madan (sour cucumber, มะดัน)(garcinia schomburgkiana) thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup fresh peppercorns (พริกไทยอ่อน)
- 1 tablespoon palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 3 tablespoons pork lard (น้ำมันหมู)
Serve with
- fresh vegetables (ผักสด) cucumber and rose apple
Instructions
- Slice the pork into small pieces.
- Peel the shrimp and crush them with a heavy knife. It will improve their texture.
- Using a knife, roughly mince the shrimp. Set aside.
- In a pestle and mortar, pound fermented shrimp paste (grilled in banana leaves with garlic) with the garlic until you get a smooth consistency.
- Add pounded dried shrimp.
- Add yellow chilies and bird’s eye chilies.
- Pound the paste until all the chilies are bruised, but small chunks of yellow chilies remain.
- Add sliced madan.
- Pound everything together.
- Add fresh green peppercorns.
- Season with palm sugar and fish sauce.
- Pound everything together. Set aside.
- Place a seasoned wok over medium heat, and add pork fat (or oil). Fry the sliced pork until it is almost cooked.
- Add the shrimp meat; fry until the pork and shrimp are well cooked.
- Add the chili paste and fry until fragrant.
- Serve.
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish – (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
Thai Relish of Fermented Fish, Grilled Catfish, Pork and Shrimp (ปลาร้าผัดทรงเครื่องสูตรสายเยาวภา ; bplaa raa phat sohng khreuuang, suut saai yao wa phaa)
Fish fermentation consists of a simple salt-curing process: mixing or coating a whole fish, sliced fish or minced fish meat with salt and rice husks (or ground roasted rice). The mixture is then allowed to rest and ferment for few months. This fermentation process creates deep, intense umami flavor agents accompanied by a strong stench. It is only with culinary sagacity and skill that cooks are able to harness and direct these powerful flavors within the context of an appetizing dish, and to constrain the odor to an agreeable intensity.
Old-Fashioned Thai Red Curry of Grilled & Smoked Pork Neck and Unripe Green Bananas (แกงหมูย่างกับกล้วยดิบ ; gaaeng muu yaang gap gluay dip)
Thai red curry is a broad term describing any curry that is red in color, although variations exist among the dish’s ingredients or their ratios. Today’s menu features a Thai red curry paste to which we add higher quantities of coriander root and kaffir lime zest; this creates a more aromatic character that will enhance the smokiness of the grilled pork meat and the mild sweetness of the unripe green bananas.
Yam Sohm Choon Mango Salad with Sweet Pork Condiment, Fermented Shrimp Paste, Shallots, and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish (ยำส้มฉุน ; yam sohm choon)
Yam sohm choon is a sour green mango salad served with grilled fermented shrimp paste; roughly chopped shallots; sweet pork condiment, deep-fried fluffy grilled catfish and seasoned with fish sauce, palm sugar and lime juice and topped with deep-fried dry chilies cut into small pieces.
If you follow Thai movies and TV dramas, you probably remember Sohm Choon, the adorable boy ghost character from the period romance movie Reun Mayura (1997), which was a love story between a beautiful woman and a handsome man living in different periods of time.
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