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c1933 Gaaeng Khuaa Phrik Baang Chaang (แกงคั่วพริกบางช้าง) Thai kua curry served with khanom jeen fermented rice noodles topped with pickled garlic
c1933 Khuaa Curry with Bang Chang Chilies (แกงคั่วพริกขี้หนูหรือพริกชี้ฟ้า; gaaeng khuaa phrik baang chaang): Princess Dissakul's Smoky Fish Curry Recipe
Princess Dissakul's 1933 royal Thai curry featuring secretly pounded smoked fish in rich coconut cream with Bang Chang chilies and aromatic phrik khing paste. This complex, smoky curry builds layers of earth and ember, traditionally served over khanom jeen fermented rice noodles and topped with tangy pickled garlic for a perfect balance of smoke, spice, and tang.
Old Fashioned Lemongrass and Chili Relish (naam phrik dtakhrai ; สูตรทำน้ำพริกตะไคร้)
Lemongrass chili relish - The citrus aromatics of the lemongrass are preserved almost intact and go very well with the peppery aroma of pungent fresh chilies. It is served with a range of blanched vegetables, steamed or fried fish, sweet pork and of course, a bowl of rice - a balanced meal, full of nutrients and health.
Chicken Satay (สะเต๊ะไก่; sa dteh gai)
Chicken Satay (สะเต๊ะไก่; sa dteh gai)
Sa dteh gai: chicken on sugarcane skewers with bacon, basted with cream and breadcrumbs, served with a stewed-apple dip. Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.
Stir-Fried Salted Beef with Coconut Milk (ผัดเนื้อกะทิ; phat neuua ga thi)
Stir-Fried Salted Beef with Coconut Cream (ผัดเนื้อกะทิ; phat neuua ga thi)
Phat neuua ga thi, grilled sun-dried salted beef shredded and wok-tossed in thick coconut cream with shallots. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
angel
Angel Visiting the Chamber: A Salad of Pomelo, Pork Skin and Shrimp with Chili Jam Dressing, circa 1920s (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง; yam naang faa yiiam haawng)
The name of this dish, yam naang faa yiiam haawng (ยำนางฟ้าเยี่ยมห้อง), translates to ‘Angel Visiting the Chamber Salad’ in English. This celestial salad, which originated in the 1920s, is a playful chili jam-based salad that combines the textural gradients of pomelo, with its citrusy bursts, chewy cooked pork skin, and the sweet and slightly resilient cooked shrimp meat. The pomelo’s citrusy notes are further amplified with thinly sliced lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves sliced into hair-thin juliennes. I like to adjust the sourness and sweetness of the chili jam-based dressing based on the acidity of the pomelo. As our aim is to achieve a final sour-salty and sweet flavor profile, a sour-salty dressing is suggested if the pomelo is sweet, while a salty-sweet dressing pairs better with a sour pomelo.
Taro Custard (สังขยาเผือก; sang kha yaa pheuuak)
Taro Custard (สังขยาเผือก; sang kha yaa pheuuak)
Sang kha yaa pheuuak, a steamed coconut cream custard with mold-pressed taro slices, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.
naam phrik roy rot
Fermented shrimp paste relish with grilled pea eggplants (น้ำพริกมะเขือพวง ; naam phrik ma kheuua phuaang)
Gaawy goong suay (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย)
Gaawy goong suay (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย) - Old-fashioned chili relish enriched with shrimp tomalley and flaky acid-cooked shrimp meat
Sour Soup with Jullien's Golden Carp (แกงต้มส้มปลายี่สก; gaaeng dtohm sohm bplaa yee sohk)
Sour Soup with Jullien's Golden Carp (แกงต้มส้มปลายี่สก; gaaeng dtohm sohm bplaa yee sohk)
Gaaeng dtohm sohm bplaa yee sohk, a tamarind-ginger broth with Jullien's golden carp and pureed Bronze featherback. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Seasoned Chicken Tongue Relish (ลิ้นระกาปรุง; lin ra gaa bproong)
Seasoned Chicken Tongue Relish (ลิ้นระกาปรุง; lin ra gaa bproong)
Lin ra gaa bproong, pounded chicken tongue relish with ruaan shrimp and ginger, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.
The art of Siamese old-school menu design
The art of Siamese old-school menu design สํารับอาหารไทย
ข้าวปลี khaao bplee
c1935 Char-grilled banana blossom stuffed and baked with tamarind relish fried rice (ข้าวปลี ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; khaao bplee)
c1935 Stuffed Potatoes with Bitter Orange Fragrant Beef Gaaeng Garee (แกงกะหรี่บรรจุมัน ม.ล. เติบ กำภู ; gaaeng garee ban joo man)
In Anglo-Indian cuisine, potatoes were used liberally in the curries; alongside the favorite sour chutneys, curries were also accompanied by fried, baked, boiled or mashed potatoes. Although the potato gradually found its way into many iconic Indian dishes, and even into Siamese cuisine, the tuber never replaced the rice of South Asia, despite the intentions of both the British and East Indian company officials. In the 1935 book Sai Yaowapa (ตำรับสายเยาวภา), Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) reflects the Anglo-Indian style gaaeng garee in her composition of bitter orange-fragrant beef gaaeng garee, which she serves in individual bowls made of fried potatoes, per a recipe recorded by M.L. Terb Gamphu (ม.ล. เติบ กำภู) and M.R. Tuang Sanitwong (ม.ร.ว.เตื้อง สนิทวงศ์).
Country-Style Curry (แกงบ้านนอก; gaaeng baan naawk)
Country-Style Curry (แกงบ้านนอก; gaaeng baan naawk)
Gaaeng baan naawk, a country soup of prawns, pork belly and snakehead fish built on a pounded grilled-fish base. Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.
Santol Salad (ยำกระท้อน; yam gra thaawn)
Santol Salad (ยำกระท้อน; yam gra thaawn)
Yam gra thaawn, tart santol salad with pork, shrimp, and crushed peanuts. Fruit is salt-soaked and air-dried to reduce bitterness. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
แกงเขียวหวานเป็ดย่าง - Thai Green Curry with Roasted Duck and Young Chilies
Thai Green Curry with Roasted Duck and Young Chilies (แกงเขียวหวานเป็ดย่าง ; gaaeng khiaao waan bpet yang)
Green curry, with its mellow, creamy green color and rich coconut base, has both fresh and mature flavors. Like new growth on plants, it brings brightness, youthfulness, spring and rebirth to the meltdown of flavors created in the curry paste. The green curry paste uses mainly the same standard ingredients as Thai spicy-red curry paste: lemongrass, coriander roots, kaffir lime zest, galangal, garlic, shallots, white peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, salt and kapi.
kaffir_lime_fried_chili_relish
Fried Kaffir Lime Chili Relish (น้ำพริกมะกรูดผัด ; naam phrik magruut phat)
Sour Curry with Prawns and Pickled Vegetables (แกงส้มกุ้งกับผักดอง; gaaeng sohm goong gap phak daawng)
Sour Curry with Prawns and Pickled Vegetables (แกงส้มกุ้งกับผักดอง; gaaeng sohm goong gap phak daawng)
Gaaeng sohm goong, a tamarind-soured prawn curry with pickled vegetables, paste dissolved into boiling water. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Swamp Eel Triple-Layered Red Curry with Fingerroot, Bitter Ginger, Sand Ginger and Thai Basil Flowers (แกงเผ็ดปลาไหลทรงเครื่อง ; Gaaeng Phet Bplaa Lai Sohng Khreuuang)
This eel curry includes a greater-than-usual quantity of aromatics used over three stages. First, the eel is cleaned and sliced into segments; then it is fried with a generous amount of lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and shallots. These help to counter its muddy and somewhat iron-like odor, which disappears along with the liquids and the aromatics. This eel curry recipe is adapted from the vintage book: “Gap Khaao O:H Chaa Roht” by Ging Ga Nohk) (กับข้าวโอชารส โดย กิ่งกนก – กาญจนาภา พ.ศ. 2485). This rare book was written in 1942 during WWII, a period of global turmoil in which Thailand was invaded by the Japanese. That same year marked a decade from the ending of absolute monarchy rule in 1932, and one generation away from the peak of the Siamese culinary renaissance that flourished in the court of King Rama V (1868-1910): a nostalgic era for its children who are still with us to remember and reflect on those times.
roasted-chili-am-for-salad-dressing
Ancient roasted chili jam (naam phrik phao bo:h raan ; น้ำพริกเผาโบราณ)
Jatturaphan Dumplings — Bird Egg-Shaped Dumplings in Four Complexions (ไข่นกจัตุรพรรณ; khai nohk jat dtoo phan)
Jatturaphan Dumplings — Bird Egg-Shaped Dumplings in Four Complexions (ไข่นกจัตุรพรรณ; khai nohk jat dtoo phan)
Bird's Egg Jatturaphan: tapioca dumplings with salted egg yolk centers in four natural colors, served in chicken broth. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 royal court cuisine cookbook.
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