Here is a quick, tasty dish that allows me to be genuinely emotional: from the tears I shed each time I chop the mountain of shallots…to my delighted grin when I behold the beautiful, deep amber color flaunted by the chicken after less than 15 minutes of preparation – a hue that one might expect to see only in a gourmet magazine photo…or on Thaifoodmaster.com.
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As you read the list of ingredients, you may suspect that there are errors in the quantities. After all, this dish calls for an amount of black pepper that might last an entire year in the average western kitchen. But trust me, the anatomy of the taste in this dish is simple, yet dazzling. Between two layers – slightly bitter, sweet caramel and the saltiness from the fish sauce – a naughty peppery beat pops up and cuts through, draping itself in the savory sweetness of the shallots and a pungent ginger punch. It flavors and colors the skin to perfection, leaving the meat moist, white and easily separated from the bones.
This dish is one that will win a recurring role in many menus to come…
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Ingredients
- 400 g chicken wings (ปีกไก่) preferably the wingette
- 1 cup shallots (หอมแดง) chopped
- 1/3 cup black peppercorns (พริกไทยดำ) roughly crushed
- 2 tablespoons ginger (ขิง) chopped
- 2/3 cup granulated sugar (น้ำตาลทราย)
- 1/2 cup fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
Instructions
- Chop the ginger and shallots; roughly crush the black peppercorns.
- Moisten the sugar. With a spoon, arrange the sugar in an even layer in a saucepan. Heat the sugar over moderate heat, keeping an eye on it. Once it begins browning at the edges (caramelizing), tilt the saucepan and continue to cook over very low heat – stirring as little as possible – until it takes on a nice, mellow brown color. Be careful not to burn it!
- Turn off the heat, and carefully add the fish sauce. Be very careful, as the caramel may start to splatter.
- Add the chicken, shallots, black pepper and ginger. Mix well and bring to a boil.
- Cover the saucepan and cook for 7-10 minutes or until the wings are completely done; they will take on a beautiful deep amber color.
- Remove the chicken wings from the pan, and place them on a baking plate. With a spoon, scoop just a bit of the caramel sauce, making sure to include some of the glazed shallots and a couple of peppercorns on each chicken piece.
- Place the chicken in a preheated oven and grill at 250C (480F) for 5 minutes or until the skin begins to get crispy.
- Move the wings to a serving dish, drizzle more of the caramel sauce on each wing – and serve!
c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
Gai dtai naam, which means “under water chicken” in Thai, consists of braised chicken in a coarse, aromatic paste made from lemongrass, galangal, garlic, chilies, kaffir lime leaves, holy basil, coriander and spring onions. In the home-cooked dish popular among the Thai working class, the entire chicken – including the bones – is chopped into bite-size pieces, and served with a bottle of rice wine accompanied by local country-style music (luktung) at high volume.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
c1949 Fermented rice noodles with multi-sour aromatic chicken sauce by Lady Gleep Mahithaawn (ขนมจีนน้ำพริกไก่ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงกลีบ มหิธร พ.ศ. 2492; khanohm jeen naam phrik gai)
Made with fermented rice noodles and an aromatic, multi-sour coconut-based chicken sauce, this is a brilliant dish that is relatively easy to prepare. While considered […]
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