อาหารภาคกลาง Archives

Thai Salads, The Professional Chef's Guide เรื่องยำๆ

Santol and Shrimp Curry (แกงคั่วกุ้งกับกระท้อน; gaaeng khuaa goong gap gra thaawn)

Gaaeng khuaa goong gap gra thaawn: santol double-soaked in salt water to draw out tannins, stir-fried with phrik khing paste. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Minced-Bird Curry with Fish (ปลาช่อนแกงนก; Bplaa Chaawn Gaaeng Nohk)

Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s historic, first-ever recipe for minced-bird curry with snakehead fish revives the old minced-bird curry syle. The fish is minced and cooked with the curry paste, producing a hearty and comforting thick-textured curry.

Magical Turtle Egg Dumplings (ขนมไข่เต่าวิเศษ; khanohm khai dtao wiset)

Khanohm khai dtao wiset, oval rice flour dumplings in salty coconut cream with shrimp tomalley, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.

ข้าวเม่าหมี่ - ข้าวเม่าทรงเครื่อง - ขนมข้าวเม่าราง

ตำรับ "ข้าวเม่าหมี่" หรือ "ข้าวเม่าทรงเครื่อง" หรือ "ขนมข้าวเม่าราง" นี้เป็นตำรับแต่ดั้งเดิม ปัจจุบันส่วนใหญ่จะไม่ใช้น้ำปลา ใช้เกลือป่น และ เห็นที่ทำขาย เขาใส่ถั่วลิสงคั่วด้วย บ้างก็ไม่ผัด ใช้วิธีทอดเครื่องแล้วค่อยมาคลุกเคล้าให้เข้ากัน เวลาใส่ภาชนะแล้ว เม็ดน้ำตาลและเกลือจะร่วงไปกองที่ด้านล่าง ทำให้เสียรสชาติ อีกทั้งยัง ผิดขนบของการทำข้าวเม่าหมี่ ใครทำตามตำรับนี้ได้ รับรองรสชาติ ไม่เป็นสองรองใคร และเม็ดน้ำตาล ก็ไม่ค่อยร่วงลงกองอยู่ด้านล่าง ลองทำพิสูจน์ดูได้เลย !!!

Modified Roasted Shrimp Paste Relish (แปลงกะปิคั่ว; bplaaeng ga bpi khuaa)

Bplaaeng ga bpi khuaa: shrimp paste relish with salted black olive and smoke-dried fish, fried in broken coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

แกงกะทิสายบัวปลาทูนึ่ง

This old-fashioned Thai coconut curry dish is a simple expression made with ingredients commonly available to Thais, it features steamed mackerels - the fish that Thai people probably love the best and the stems of the lotus flowers - one of Buddhism's most recognized motifs.

The fish together with peeled lotus stems are boiled in coconut milk, to which a simple yet very aromatic curry paste, made only of white pepper corns, shallots and fermented shrimp paste is added.

Yogurt-Based Ancient Green Curry with Chicken Offal (แกงเขียว; gaaeng khiaao)

Mrs. Yim Pichaiyat Bunnag (คุณยิ้ม พิชัยญาติ บุนนาค)'s 1920s aristocratic green curry reveals a forgotten chapter in Thai culinary history. This Muslim-style recipe uses ghee and yogurt instead of coconut milk, featuring chicken offal—liver, gizzard, and heart—each contributing distinct textures and concentrated flavors. Roasted spices like cinnamon, clove, and cardamom create warming aromatics, while fresh chilies provide signature heat. The dish documents how Bangkok's noble kitchens adapted Islamic cooking techniques before democratization, preserving methods that would shape modern Thai cuisine.

The Golden Trails of Curry Powder - เรื่องราวของผงกะหรี่

Chuu Chee Curry with Climbing Perch (แกงฉู่ฉี่ปลาหมอ; gaaeng chuu chee bplaa maaw)

Chuu chee curry with climbing perch — pan-fried fish in split coconut cream based chuu chee curry with kaffir lime leaves and coriander leaves. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 cookbook.

Chuu Chee Chicken Curry (แกงฉู่ฉี่ไก่; gaaeng chuu chee gai)

Chuu Chee Chicken Curry, a rich aromatic dish simmered in thick coconut cream with lemongrass and dried chilies. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.

ยำกลีบกุพชกะ - ตำนาน "ดอกกุหลาบ" กับ เรื่องรัก 14 กุมภาพันธ์ แบบไทย ๆ

สูตรทำยำกลีบกุพชกะ อย่าง พระยานครราชเสนี - วันแห่งความรัก 14 กุมภาพันธ์นี้ ข้าพเจ้าเปลี่ยนความคิดใหม่แล้ว แทนที่จะพาครอบครัวไปฉลองข้างนอก เปลี่ยนมาฉลองที่บ้านดีกว่า จะลงปรุงอาหารคาวหวานจากดอกกุหลาบหลาย ๆ ตำรับให้เป็นธีม (theme) ดูท่าคงจะมีเรื่องเล่า จากดอกกุหลาบแดงช่อนั้นของแม่ลูกสาวข้าพเจ้าในโต๊ะอาหารเป็นแน่แท้... คิดแล้วก็ขับรถไป ฮัมเพลงไป เบา ๆ

Citrus-Infused Crumbled Duck Egg Yolk Salad (ไขเค็มพล่า; Khai Khem Phlaa)

This vibrant salad combines the richness of crumbled duck egg yolks with the zesty notes of citrus and aromatic herbs. Set against a backdrop of aromatics, the crumbled essence of cured duck egg yolks glow in a delicate orange-gold shade, evoking a shimmering sunlit dawn. The cured yolks bestow a rich, briny base that acquires even deeper undertones when seasoned with fish sauce and sugar. This base takes on a luxuriously silky texture, reminiscent of a finely whipped mousse, when mixed with juices of lime and kaffir lime, which also give the mix a crisp, clean citrusy finish.

c1935 Princess Yaovabha's Sweet Chinese Sausage in Coconut Cream Soup (แกงไส้กรอกหมูแห้ง; gaaeng sai graawk muu haaeng)

A 1935 Thai palace recipe preserving Princess Yaovabha's Chinese sausage coconut curry. This ivory-colored soup features sweet goon chiang sausage in creamy coconut with lemongrass, kaffir lime, and tamarind. The dish represents a historic culinary shift when Chinese ingredients entered royal Thai kitchens, transforming from street food to palace cuisine.

Gaawy goong suay (ก้อยกุ้งเสวย กับ น้ำพริกก้อย) - Old-fashioned chili relish enriched with shrimp tomalley and flaky acid-cooked shrimp meat

Phra Ram Long Song (Phra Ram Bathing) (พระรามลงสรง; phra raam long song)

Phra Ram Long Song, beef and morning glory blanched in stock over a tableside charcoal brazier, with coconut curry sauce. From Puang Bunnag, 1931.

Faux Frog Salad – A Salad of Coconut Braised Chicken with Young Coconut and Chili Jam Dressing (ยำกบเทียม; yam gohp thiiam)

Faux frog salad is a rich, elegant dish featuring tender chicken braised in coconut cream and young coconut flesh with a chili-jam based dressing. Utilizing an old-fashioned salad assembly technique – the ‘mix and layer’ – this is a visually striking salad with alternating layers of reds and whites. The name of this vintage dish – Faux Frog Salad – could be a reflection of the swinging social norms in Siam during the roaring twenties, a period of significant social change; as the country sought to navigate the challenges of modernization, Siamese society was shifting its dietary preferences away from the frog, once a common, versatile and popular ingredient. Thus, through the desire for distinction, chicken, an ingredient often compared to the taste of everything, was preferable to frog.

Potato Rice Soup (ข้าวต้มันฝรั่ง; khaao dtohm man farang)

Potato Khao dtohm Rice Soup, featuring a clear seafood broth with pork meatballs, served with crispy fried potatoes on the side. From Gingganok's 'Delicious Side Dishes,' 1935.

Roasted Stuffed Duck Breast with Chestnuts and Mackerel (เป็ดยัดไส้เกาลัดรมควัน; bpet yat sai gaolat rohm khwan), circa 1935

Smoked duck stuffed with a mackerel and chestnut filling is a dish that defies cultural boundaries. An exemplar of blended culinary influences, featuring inviting colors and an elegant presentation that serve as a prelude to the complex flavors and textures that await, the dish is an eloquent testament to the cooking style of Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag, who went by the pen name “the granddaughter of Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa”). In the 1930s. Mrs. Jeep Bunnag published her first cookbook. Following in the footsteps of her revered grandmother-in-law, Lady Plean Passakornrawong, she continued to document the art of Siamese cuisine through the treasured books she published and was known for her ability to merge culinary traditions into beautiful and innovative dishes that represent an era. The rich, dark color of the smoked duck’s skin is visually striking and appetizing, evoking a sense of indulgence and luxury. The smoky flavors that permeate the meat reflect our deep connection to primal cooking techniques, a fascinating juxtaposition to the refined presentation of the dish. When the smoked duck is sliced, its succulent pink meat is revealed, surrounding the golden filling of chestnuts and mackerel.

Crispy pork or sweet beef threads (หมูเค็มผัดฝอย; muu khem phat faawy)

Crispy sweet pork or beef threads (หมูเค็มผัดฝอย ; muu khem phat faawy)

This is a modern version of a classic sweet meat threads condiment that often complements chili relishes or is served as a side dish in classic Siamese samrub meals.

Slow-Braised Pork Belly with Chinese Daylily Flower (แกงต้มหมูหอง; gaaeng dtohm muu haawng)

Gaaeng dtohm muu haawng, pork belly slow-braised with Chinese daylily flower, star anise and tao chiao paste. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.

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