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This relish is based on the basic chili relish recipe, to which a generous amount of grilled pea eggplant (มะเขือพวงเผา) is added as the last component. Other modifications of the basic relish include adding other sour ingredients such as hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก), madan, and green mandarin orange juice (น้ำส้มเหม็น).
As well, the dried shrimp may be substituted with smoke-dried fish meat (ปลาย่างรมควัน) or salted Indian salmon fish (ปลากุเลา), washed and grilled in banana leaves to mellow its odor. You may need to adjust the seasoning and the amount of the fermented shrimp paste if the latter is used.
Serve with:
- Fresh vegetables,
- Fried steamed mackerel,
- Sweet pork.
Recommended prerequisites:
1. Siamese Chili Relishes – The Professional Chef’s Guide
2. How to prepare the basic fermented shrimp paste chili relish (น้ำพริกกะปิมาตรฐาน)
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Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons grilled pea eggplant (มะเขือพวงเผา)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- 1/4 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 1/2 tablespoon dried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น) or
- smoke-dried fish (all varieties) (ปลาย่างรมควัน) or
- salted Indian salmon (ปลากุเลา)
- 1 tablespoon three colors of chilies – red, green, yellow and chilies (พริกสามสี)
- 4 pieces fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด)
- hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก) optional
- madan (sour cucumber, มะดัน)(garcinia schomburgkiana) optional
- 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 1 3/4 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 1 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 1 tablespoon green mandarin orange juice (น้ำส้มเหม็น) optional /or
- bitter orange juice (som.saa)(น้ำส้มซ่า)
Serve with
- fresh vegetables (ผักสด)
- vegetables blanched in pork lard (ผักตีน้ำมัน)
- fried steamed mackerel (ปลาทูนึ่งและทอด)
- sweet pork (หมูหวาน)
Instructions
- On a hot skillet, char-grill the pea eggplants and set aside.
- Measure the amount of fermented shrimp paste (kapi), garlic and palm sugar following the ratios of a basic chili relish recipe (น้ำพริกกะปิมาตรฐาน). Arrange the ingredients next to each other so you can visualize their proportions.
- Begin preparing the relish in a mortar and pestle the same way you would a basic chili relish – start by pounding the garlic with the kapi and add dried shrimp powder (or smoke-dried fish meat)
- Taste and season with salt and fish sauce. Once you are satisfied with the saltiness of the relish, add the palm sugar at the ratio indicated. Season to a sweet-salty flavor profile.
- Season to a sour leading flavor profile using lime juice and green mandarin orange juice (น้ำส้มเหม็น).
- Add the chilies. Bruise them using the pestle to release the desired spiciness.
- If used, mix in the sweet-sour fruits: the hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก), madan (มะดัน) and diced green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น).
- Add the charred pea eggplants and bruise with the pestle.
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.
However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Fried fermented shrimp paste relish with green apples by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกลูกแอปเปิ้ลผัด อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik luuk aaep bpeern phat)
A century ago, modernity […]
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