Also known as:gaaeng jeen juaan (แกงจีนจ๊วน), or gaaeng juaan (แกงจ๋วน).
Gaaeng jeen juaan is a coconut-based curry. With primary ingredients of chicken, light green banana chili peppers and peanuts, it is similar to Massaman curry (matsaman); and scented with the sweet aroma of dry Indian spices such as cumin, mace, nutmeg, clove, star anise and cinnamon. Pineapple adds sweetness and a thin layer of tartness. The sweet and sour flavors are echoed by the addition of fresh sugarcane juice and a squeeze of bitter orange juice (sohm saa). To enhance the aroma and texture of the curry, roasted grated coconut is added to the curry paste.
This recipe comes from Phra Sucharit Suda (1895 -1982), who was the first consort of King Rama VI (formerly Prueng Sucharitakul) (พระสุจริตสุดา (เปรื่อง สุจริตกุล)”). On her 60th birthday, in 1955, Phra Sucharit Suda published a cookbook called “How to Cook Thai and Western Food (วิธีทำอาหารไทยและฝรั่ง)”, based on her own recipes.
The popularity of the richer, thicker Massaman curry came to overshadow this dish, and today it is barely present on the Thai culinary landscape. Food culture is constantly evolving and changing: Dishes that are less popular among wider populations have been known to entirely disappear: This is one of the reasons that we have chosen to write about this forgotten dish, and to hopefully preserve it for future generations.
Gaaeng Jeen Juaan – A Javanese Muslim Dish In the early days of his reign, King Rama V visited several neighboring territories including Singapore, Java (1870), Burma and India (1877). At that time, these kingdoms were western vassal states, and The King sought practical knowledge on the administrative methods implemented by the British and the Dutch.
King Chulalongkorn was accompanied by the Queen Consort of Siam, Saovabha Phongsri [สมเด็จพระศรีพัชรินทร์ฯ], as well as a sizeable entourage; in addition to observing the systems and procedures of governance, the group enjoyed many of the dishes created by Javanese Muslims, dishes strongly influenced by Indian and Arabic cooking.
Gaaeng phet gai jee juaan (แกงเผ็ดไก่จี่จ๋วน), satay (สะเต๊ะ) and khaao khlook naa si bpaa ji dto:h (ข้าวคลุกนาซิปาจิโต) moved into the Thai kitchen following the royal journeys. These dishes were swiftly adapted for the Siamese palate, again demonstrating the proficiency of the Siamese in accepting and integrating foreign influences in politics, culture and cuisine – and transforming them into something uniquely and truly Thai.
The dish remained popular within Royal society circles, and was published publicly after the Siamese Revolution of 1932.
Jee Juaan Curry in Thai Culinary literature The recipe appeared for the first time in 1935, in two books.
1935 – “Sai Yaowapa”, printed by Sai Panya Samakom (สายเยาวภา จัดพิมพ์โดยสายปัญญาสมาคม) as a memorial book for Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid, the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Rama V (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท).
1935 – “The Key to the Kitchen” (กุญแจห้องเครื่อง), written by Paw. Thuay Athawng (pseudonym) and published by Krung Thep Bannakarn (โรงพิมพ์กรุงเทพบรรณาคาร).
1949 – The recipe appears in Thanpuying (Lady) Gleep Mahithaawn’s book “Recipes for Teaching Children and Grandchildren” (หนังสือกับข้าวสอนลูกหลาน ท่านผู้หญิงกลีบมหิธร), printed for her 72nd birthday celebration on January 7, 1949.
1955 – The recipe is listed in a book called “How to Cook Thai and Western Food” (วิธีทำอาหารไทยและฝรั่ง) by Khun Phra Sucharit Suda.
Phra Sucharit Suda (1895 -1982) The daughter of Chao Phraya Sudharm Montri, and the first consort of King Vajiravudh (Rama VI), Phra Sucharit Suda was the first lady to receive the royal title, Khon Phra (คุณพระ), in 1921. She was well trained in Thai culinary arts by her grandmother, Lady Ratchapakdee, (Thongsook Sujaritkul) (คุณหญิงราชภักดี (ทองสุก สุจริตกุล)). She was also close to her niece, Tao Wanidapijarinee (Jao Jom Perm) (ท้าววนิดาพิจาริณี (เจ้าจอมเพิ่ม ในรัชกาลที่ ๕)), a wife of King Rama V, who served as the chief of the Royal Kitchen. Her culinary skills brought her to the royal kitchen of the Phaya Thai Palace, the Royal Residence of Queen Saovabha Phongsri of Rama V, who had accompanied the King on his trip to Java. There, Phra Sucharit Suda learned to prepare gaaeng phet gai jee juaan.
Jee (Jeen) Juaan Red Curry of Chicken, Banana Chilies, Peanuts and Indian Spices Recipe
Hanuman and Chef Thapakorn Lertviriyavit (Gorn)
Gaaeng jeen juaan is a coconut-based red curry. With primary ingredients of chicken, light green banana chili peppers and peanuts, it is similar to Massaman curry (matsaman); and scented with the sweet aroma of dry Indian spices such as cumin, mace, nutmeg, clove, star anise and cinnamon. Pineapple adds sweetness and a thin layer of tartness. The sweet and sour flavors are echoed by the addition of fresh sugarcane juice and a squeeze of bitter orange juice (sohm saa). To enhance the aroma and texture of the curry, roasted grated coconut is added to the curry paste.
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
Considered by some to be the most famous, and the most delicious, dish in Thai cooking, the story of Massaman curry is interwoven with trade, politics and religion in 17th-century Siam. The story is filled with mighty kings, legendary explorers and unsolved mysteries, adding an air of magic and power to this already-heavenly perfumed dish, and thickening the plot of this full bodied, coconut-based curry’s birth.
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
Breaking news: The oldest Thai cookbook, as well as history’s first-ever recorded recipe for Phanaeng curry, are revealed for the first time on Thaifoodmaster.com – A 126-year-old cookbook written by one of Siam’s most revered singers, Maawm Sohm Jeen (Raa Chaa Noopraphan) (หม่อมซ่มจีน, ราชานุประพันธุ์), has been rediscovered, offering a unique glimpse into the culinary repertoire of 19th-century Siam. In this chapter we examine the different forms of phanaeng curry from the 1800s to the present day, as we reconstruct the 19th-century version and craft step-by-step a traditional beef phanaeng curry.
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Access to Thaifoodmaster’s constantly growing library of prime professional classes, articles, recipes and videos on Siamese culinary topics, available nowhere else in English.
Gain access to NEW MONTHLY masterclasses as they become available.
1-1 support from Hanuman to help you achieve your professional Thai culinary goals
The opportunity to join a monthly live two-hour videoconference where I can answer your questions.
one year access for the price of 3 days in-person training.
You will get everything you need to:
When you design or build a new menu for an event or restaurant or even prepare for dinner with friends.
Finally !
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