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A simple yet fun version of lohn relish is presented by Lady Plean’s granddaughter-in-law, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), in her 1933 book Sam Rap Raawp Bpee (สำรับรอบปี). In this tasty lohn relish, Jeep Bunnag starts by simmering dried shrimp and garlic paste with coconut cream. Before she continues to add the minced shrimp meat, she first draws sweetness and sourness by simmering slices of salacca and diced young and mature hairy-fruited eggplants. After the shrimp meat is added and cooked, she seasons the relish with the usual suspects – fish sauce, tamarind paste and palm sugar. However, she further diversifies the sour roof with the playful fruitiness of a trio of citrus juices: lime juice, bitter orange juice and green mandarin juice.
Serve with:
- Fresh vegetables, banana blossom (หัวปลี), ginger (ขิง), white turmeric (ขมิ้นขาว), young leaves
- Grilled catfish or fried snakehead fish.
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Ingredients
For the paste
- 3 tablespoons dried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น) pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น)
- 1/2 tablespoon Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) กระเทียมไทย cloves
For the lohn
- 1/3 cup minced shrimp meat (เนื้อกุ้งสับ) เนื้อกุ้งสับ
- 1 tablespoon shrimp tomalley (มันกุ้ง) มันกุ้ง
- 1 cup coconut cream (หัวกะทิ)
- 1/4 cup hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก) diced into small pieces
- 1/4 cups green hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึกเขียว) diced into small pieces
- 3 salacca (สละ หรือ ระกำ) sliced into thin pieces
Season to a bold sour-salty-sweet profile
- 1 part tamarind paste (น้ำมะขามเปียก)
- 1 part fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 1 part palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
Remove from heat and add fresh citrus juice
- 1/2 part lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 1 part bitter orange juice (som.saa)(น้ำส้มซ่า)
- 1/4 part green mandarin orange juice (น้ำส้มเหม็น)
Garnish
- bitter orange peel (som.saa)(ผิวนส้มซ่า) sliced thinly
- hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก) sliced thinly
Serve with
- fresh vegetables (ผักสด)
- banana blossom (หัวปลี)
- white turmeric (ขมิ้นขาว)
- ginger (ขิง)
Instructions
- Peel and de-vein the shrimp. Cut into small pieces. Wash and pat dry the sliced shrimp meat.
- Squeeze the shrimp tomalley from the heads; add it to the shrimp.
- On a cutting board, use a knife to mince the shrimp together with the tomalley. Set aside.
- In a pestle and mortar, pound the dried shrimp and garlic to a smooth paste. Set aside.
- Thicken coconut cream in a saucepan over medium-low heat, reserving a small amount for the garnish. Do not allow the cream to separate into fat.
- Add the dried shrimp-garlic paste, then cook it to remove the raw garlic taste.
- Add the salacca and the diced green and yellow hairy-fruited eggplants. Continue a constant stirring, being careful not to let the coconut cream separate into fat!
- Add the minced shrimp and the shallots. Keep simmering until the shrimp meat is fully cooked.
- When the shrimp are cooked, taste and season to a sour-salty-sweet profile. Start by adding fish sauce; when you are satisfied with the saltiness, add the same amount of fish sauce as palm sugar and tamarind paste. Taste and adjust the flavors.
- Turn off the heat and add the citrus juices at the ratios indicated.
- Pour into a serving bowl. Garnish with thinly sliced three colored chilies – red, green and yellow – along with sliced shallots and a drizzle of the thickened coconut cream.
c1941 Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies (แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณอย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng phet baaep bo:h raan)
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
Thai Relish of Fermented Fish, Grilled Catfish, Pork and Shrimp (ปลาร้าผัดทรงเครื่องสูตรสายเยาวภา ; bplaa raa phat sohng khreuuang, suut saai yao wa phaa)
Fish fermentation consists of a simple salt-curing process: mixing or coating a whole fish, sliced fish or minced fish meat with salt and rice husks (or ground roasted rice). The mixture is then allowed to rest and ferment for few months. This fermentation process creates deep, intense umami flavor agents accompanied by a strong stench. It is only with culinary sagacity and skill that cooks are able to harness and direct these powerful flavors within the context of an appetizing dish, and to constrain the odor to an agreeable intensity.
Thai Chili Jam – This is a chili jam similar to what is commonly sold under the name of roasted chili paste (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา). It is widely used as a condiment in salad dressings, soups, and seasoning for stir-fried dishes. I like to have control over my pantry ingredients, so I always use homemade naam phrik phao. Furthermore, since it is a basic ingredient used in so many dishes, anything less than the best will drastically impair the quality of your dishes.
Naam Phrik Lohng Reuua (Boat Embarking Chili Relish), Relish of Fermented Shrimp Paste Relsih with Sweet Pork and Crispy Deep-Fried Fluffy Fish – (น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ ; naam phrik lohng reuua)
Naam phrik lohng reuua (น้ำพริกลงเรือ) – Literally translated as “boat embarking chili relish”, this particular boat seems to have drifted a long way from port and these days, the actual dish served in Thai restaurants is far away from the original version. We want to tell you the real story behind this dish and to present you with the original version’s recipe in its true character – as if the boat is still moored at the dock.
Goong Saawn Glin – A Thai Royal Appetizer of Flaky Acid-Cooked Shrimp, Peanuts and Pickled Garlic, with a Sour-Salty-Sweet Shrimp Tomalley Dressing. (กุ้งซ่อนกลิ่น)
กุ้งแนม” หรือ “กุ้งซ่อนกลิ่น – Goong naaem (goong saawn glin) according to the 1908 recipe in Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s “Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์)” cookbook. Flaky acid-cooked shrimp and the pork fat, along with thinly sliced roasted peanuts and very small unpeeled diced bitter orange (ส้มซ่า som saa), plus paper-thin slices of pickled garlic and julienned fresh red long chili peppers are mixed and seasoned with shrimp tomalley dressing. It is served in wrapped squares, using iceberg lettuce and young thaawng laang leaves.
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