อาหารภาคกลาง Archives

c1939 Chicken and Golden Raisin Curry - gaaeng khaaek yawaa - แกงแขกยะวา

c1939 Siamese-Javanese style coconut-based chicken and golden raisins curry (แกงแขกยะวา ; gaaeng khaaek yawaa)

Italian Tube Pasta (แป้งหลอดอิตาเลียน; bpaaeng laawt i dtaa liian)

Bpaaeng laawt i dtaa liian, macaroni in clear bone broth with steamed pork meatballs, prawns, and shredded chicken. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Curry of Black Ear Catfish or Iridescent Shark with Lemon Basil (แกงปลาเทโพหรือปลาสวายกับใบแมงลัก; gaaeng bplaa thaeh pho:h reuu bplaa sawaai gap bai maaeng lak)

Gaaeng bplaa thaeh phoh, water-based catfish curry with lemon basil, tamarind, and a pounded dry spice paste. Mrs. Paan Nanthaaphiwat, 1953.

Seasoned Chicken Tongue Relish (ลิ้นระกาปรุง; lin ra gaa bproong)

Lin ra gaa bproong, pounded chicken tongue relish with ruaan shrimp and ginger, from Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.

Stir-fried Chicken with Baby Corn (ผัดไก่กับข้าวโพดอ่อน; phat gai gap khaao pho:ht aawn)

Phat gai gap khaao phoht aawn, chicken and baby corn stir-fried with garlic, sauce thickened by pounded corn kernels. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

c1933 Water-based spicy curry of fatty chicken and seven spices (แกงเผ็ดไก่น้ำมัน พ.ศ. 2476; gaaeng phet gai naam man)

This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.

c1920 Sarama Shrimp Curry with White Eggplants and Lotus Stems (แกงสะระหม่ากุ้งกับมะเขือขาว และ สายบัว พ.ศ. 2463; gaaeng saramaa goong gap makheuua khaao reuu saai buaa)

A dish of complex flavors and an aromatic brightness, this Sarama curry features shrimp and the smaller Thai white eggplant, or crunchy lotus stems, in a golden, salty leading broth with clear tangy-sweet notes. The broth is silky and combines the nutty richness of coconut cream with the subtle sweetness of butter, cooked with a blend of dry spices that include coriander, cumin and turmeric. This spice blend evokes the penetrating aroma of curry powder, reflecting Muslim culinary influences. Unlike spicy gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด) curries, which typically deploy dried chilies in the paste, Sarama curry contains fresh chilies. A mix of both red and yellow chili varieties are utilized, fusing the vibrant, fruity piquancy of the fresh chilies with the warm, earthy aromas of the spices. The red chilies contribute a ripe tropical fruitiness while the yellow offer citrusy and floral notes, creating a light yet layered curry with nuanced heat and depth of flavor.

Wild Boar Curry with Salacca (แกงหมูบป่าระกำ; gaaeng muup bpaa ra gam)

Gaaeng muup bpaa ra gam, wild Boar curry with sourness from both tamarind and crushed salacca. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's Divine Dishes, 1949.

Steamed Shrimp Curry Parcels (ห่อหมกกุ้ง; haaw mohk goong)

Haaw mohk goong — giant freshwater prawns in fish haw mok paste, bound with one egg before wrapping and steaming. Lady Gleep, 1949.

ยำผิวส้มซ่า

พูดถึงอาหารไทยแท้ไทยโบราณ ท่านรู้หรือไม่ว่า พืชชนิดใดที่คนไทยสมัยก่อนนำมาให้รสเปรี้ยวในสำรับอาหารมากที่สุด ? ถ้าเป็นปัจจุบันจะตอบได้ง่าย ๆ ว่าเป็น "มะนาว" แต่สมัยก่อนนั้น ไม่ใช่เลยขอรับ คนไทยอาศัยความเปรี้ยวจาก"มะขาม" มากที่สุด ใช้ทั้งยอดอ่อน ดอก ฝักอ่อน และ โดยเฉพาะมะขามเปียก แต่ทราบไหมขอรับว่า ส่วนใหญ่น้ำมะขามเปียกมักไม่ใช่องค์ ประกอบเด่นในอาหารไทย ตัวมะขามเปียกเอง ก็นำมาทำเป็นอาหารหลักไม่ได้ ไม่เคยมีตำรับ ยำมะขามเปียก แกงมะขามเปียก หรือ มะขามเปียกลอยแก้ว แต่อย่างใดเลย อย่างที่เห็นก็แค่เป็นเครื่องดื่ม ในกลุ่มน้ำปานะ ที่ภิกษุในศาสนาพุทธสามารถฉันได้ในยามวิกาล เช่น น้ำมะขาม

Crab and Spring Onion Coconut-Based Curry (แกงคั่วปูกับต้นหอม; Gaaeng Khuaa Bpuu Gap Dtohn Haawm)

Preparing a crab curry is an exercise in culinary diplomacy, wherein the challenge lies in negotiating the distinct flavors of land and sea into a cohesive understanding and capturing the perfect balance. This golden gastronomic horizon is where the delicate whispers of the ocean meet earth’s bold declarations – and at its core is a straightforward question: How do we craft a curry that testifies, via crab, to the ocean’s bounty, yet remains grounded in the earth’s aromatic flora, with roots like galangal and turmeric? In addition, it is challenging to create a curry that is luxuriously creamy, yet light and not too greasy; where the crab’s delicate natural sweetness surfaces as a pleasant sea breeze, levitating above the pitfalls of being too fishy or overly sweetened. Another hurdle is achieving the precise color – produced by red chilies, golden turmeric and peppercorns – that reflects the culinary traditions of southern seashore fishing communities. I like mine set to about a 70:30 ratio of yellow to red and, if using black peppercorns, with a deep brown undertone.

Chuu Chee Curry of Stuffed Banana Chilies with Pork, Shrimp and Crab Meat (ฉู่ฉี่พริกสอดไส้ ; chuu chee phrik yuaak saawt sai)

This chuu chee features avocado-green banana chilies and the pinkish mixture of pork, shrimp and crab meats. The chilies are sliced open and stuffed with a mixture of the meats, which is seasoned with the basic saam gluuhr (สามเกลอ) paste – the Siamese trio of coriander roots, Thai garlic and white peppercorns. The stuffed chilies are then steamed before being cooked in a thick, reddish, coconut cream-based curry. The liquids collected in the tray during the steaming process are packed with the light sweet fruitiness of the banana chilies; these liquids are reserved and added to the broth, producing a bright and light-bodied dish.

น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ - เอาตำรับที่ถูกต้องพร้อมวิธีการจัด มาให้ชมและชิมกัน

น้ำพริกลงเรือต้นตำรับ - ตำรับน้ำพริกลงเรือ ที่ใกล้เคียงกับต้นตำรับที่สุด คือตำรับของ บ้าน ม.ล.เนื่อง นิลรัตน์ อดีตข้าหลวงห้องเครื่องคาว ในสำนักพระวิมาดาเธอฯ แหล่งกำเนิดของน้ำพริกลงเรือ และเป็นผู้สืบทอดตำรับมาโดยตรง โดยเพิ่มมะดันซอยไปด้วย เพื่อความอร่อยยิ่งขึ้น

c1935 Stuffed Potatoes with Bitter Orange Fragrant Beef Gaaeng Garee (แกงกะหรี่บรรจุมัน ม.ล. เติบ กำภู ; gaaeng garee ban joo man)

In Anglo-Indian cuisine, potatoes were used liberally in the curries; alongside the favorite sour chutneys, curries were also accompanied by fried, baked, boiled or mashed potatoes. Although the potato gradually found its way into many iconic Indian dishes, and even into Siamese cuisine, the tuber never replaced the rice of South Asia, despite the intentions of both the British and East Indian company officials. In the 1935 book Sai Yaowapa (ตำรับสายเยาวภา), Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) reflects the Anglo-Indian style gaaeng garee in her composition of bitter orange-fragrant beef gaaeng garee, which she serves in individual bowls made of fried potatoes, per a recipe recorded by M.L. Terb Gamphu (ม.ล. เติบ กำภู) and M.R. Tuang Sanitwong (ม.ร.ว.เตื้อง สนิทวงศ์).

Seasoned Pickled Razor Clam Relish (หอยเสียบดองปรุง; haawy siiap daawng bproong)

Haawy siiap daawng bproong, pickled razor clam relish seasoned with three acids—kaffir lime, lime, and tamarind. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Slow-Braised Pork Belly with Chinese Daylily Flower (แกงต้มหมูหอง; gaaeng dtohm muu haawng)

Gaaeng dtohm muu haawng, pork belly slow-braised with Chinese daylily flower, star anise and tao chiao paste. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.

Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad (ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบเสวย; yam phohn gra jiiap sa weeuy)

Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad combines wine-ruby roselle buds with pork and crispy aromatics in a bitter orange dressing. Components remain separate until serving, per Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript.

Haaw mohk steamed savory curried fish cakes (ห่อหมกปลา ; haaw mohk bplaa)

This recipe is for a coconut-based haaw mohk featuring clown featherback fish meat (เนื้อปลากราย) and slices of firm snakehead fish (ปลาช่อน). It is a classic recipe that follows the ancient haaw mohk tradition with a contemporary accent.

ต้มยำปลาช่อนแบบโบราณ - อย่างหม่อมซ่มจีน (ราชานุประพันธุ์) - ร.ศ.๑๐๙

ตำรับอาหารไทยแท้ที่มีมาแต่โบราณ ปัจจุบันยังคงมีอยู่ หากแต่พัฒนาไปไกลจนแทบไม่มีใครรับรู้ต้นเค้าเก่าก่อน ถ้าให้คนรุ่นปัจจุบันมาลิ้มลองตำรับแบบดั้งเดิม ก็จะมองว่าเป็นของแปลกไปเสียแล้ว ดังนั้น Thaifoodmaster คงจะต้องออกมาอธิบายถึงพัฒนาการของอาหารตำรับน้ำแกงนี้ก่อนไม่มีใครจดจำของเก่าแบบดั้งเดิมได้

Spiced Skewers of Grilled Pork Neck and Firm Pork Fat with Fresh Pineapple (หมูปิ้งสัปปะรด; Muu Bping Sapbparoht)

Known as muu bping sapbparoht (หมูปิ้งสัปปะรด) and translated as grilled pork with pineapple, this dish showcases cubes of grilled pork meat and firm fat with fresh pineapple. The pork meat is marinated in light soy sauce and an array of dry spices, giving it earthy and slightly spicy notes. The cubes are then threaded onto skewers, interspersed with evenly sliced pieces of firm pork fat. When grilled, these pieces of pork fat introduce an additional layer of richness and juiciness to the meat. The preferred cut of choice for this dish is pork neck, a cut highly valued for its optimal ratio of lean meat to fat, culminating in a pleasingly succulent texture when grilled. In Thai cuisine, it is common practice to sprinkle grated coconut over glowing charcoal while grilling. The heat-induced combustion of aromatic fats within the coconut introduces an additional dimension of sweet, smoky richness to the dish. Meanwhile, the charring of the edges of the meat catalyzes the caramelization of its natural sugars, yielding a delightful sweetness that further enhances the smoky undertones of the meat.

Gaaeng Raawn (แกงร้อน)

Gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) is a colloquial Thai term that refers to ‘hot curry’. Today, gaaeng raawn is used to denote soups or curries served with steamed rice. While the precise origin of the term is unclear, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was deployed in the 1800s for a specific dish – a Siamese soup featuring glass noodles, cooked as either a coconut or a water-based soup with an assortment of dry ingredients revered in Chinese cuisine. The soup’s potential health benefits, combined with its ease of preparation and subtle yet profound flavor, made it a popular choice for entertaining large groups of people, of all ages and backgrounds. The soup is often augmented with fresh proteins: in its more luxurious versions, multiple proteins may be added, including a combination of chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, and crab meat. Thus, over the years, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was established as a staple source of comfort and warmth for people of all walks of life in Siamese society.

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