อาหารภาคกลาง Archives

c1941 Roasted Duck Curry with Grapes (Gaaeng Ho) (แกงเป็ดเหาะใส่องุ่น อย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484; gaaeng bpet haw sai angoon)

Grapes have long been associated with prosperity, fertility and abundance across various cultures and historical periods due to the fruit’s large clusters and bountiful growth. In ancient China, grapes were considered a symbol of wealth and nobility, and often deployed as a status symbol among the elite. In Greek mythology, Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility, was often depicted holding a bunch of grapes, further emphasizing the connection between grapes and abundance. This association is also likely rooted in the fact that grapes were a valuable crop in antiquity – used to produce wine and other fermented products, and an important source of food and nutrition. In Indian Ayurvedic texts, grapes are referred to as vineaksha and utilized in treating a variety of ailments, including fever and indigestion. From the Siamese perspective, the incorporation of fruits in culinary preparations was viewed as a luxurious indulgence, as many fruits commonly available today were once difficult to obtain. Thus the pairing of an extravagant ingredient – such as fruit – with an equally opulent and exclusive delicacy like roasted duck resulted in a dish fit for royalty.

Kapi pla, an old-fashioned fermented shrimp paste relish (กะปิพล่า ; gabpi phlaa)

c1933 Manifold flavors curry – a chicken and pineapple spicy curry (แกงเผ็ดหลากหลายรส; gaaeng phet laak laai roht)

At first glance, this chicken and pineapple curry might seem ordinary or plain. After all, even though spicy curries with sour notes have been relished for ages, they feature repetitive patterns that could be viewed as common and perhaps uninteresting. However, with a calculated yet simple approach, this curry turns corners – quite literally – into a dish with a new flavor melody. It is thus referred to by its author, Mrs. Samaknantapol (Jeep Bunnag) (นางสมรรคนันทพล, จีบ บุนนาค), as laak laai roht, a “curry with manifold flavors (หลากหลายรส)”.

Spicy Chicken Curry (แกงเผ็ดไก่; gaaeng phet gai)

Gaaeng phet gai, chicken simmered in a pork-lard-fried red curry paste with optional brandy or sherry. From Maawm Sohm Jeen's Tamra Gap Khao, c. 1890.

Sweet and Sour Stir-Fried Giant Female Freshwater Prawn (ผัดเปรี้ยวหวานนางกุ้ง; phat bpriaao waan naang goong)

Phat bpriaao waan naang goong, giant female freshwater prawns steamed then stir-fried with a cassava flour sweet-sour glaze. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Bite-Sized Fried Shrimp-Rice Cake Parcels Wrapped With Fresh Garnishes in Cabbage Leaves (ส้มผักสด; sohm phak soht)

Sohm phak soht: coconut-battered fried shrimp-rice cakes wrapped in Chinese cabbage with pickled ginger, peanuts, shallots, lime and bitter orange. Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.

Grilled Eggplant Lohn Relish with Shrimp (หลนมะเขือเผากุ้งสด; Lohn Ma Kheuua Phao Goong Soht)

Lohn relish of grilled eggplant (หลนมะเขือเผากุ้งสด) captivates with its subtle contrasts and complex layering of flavors. Central to this dish is grilled eggplant, which is known for its inherent bitterness due to phenolic compounds like chlorogenic acid. However, this bitterness succumbs to a delightful transformation when the eggplant is simmered in coconut cream. The fats and sugars in the coconut cream effectively mask these bitter notes, resulting in a deep, satisfying savory relish that is both well-balanced and rounded. Accompanying the eggplant are roasted shallots and garnet-blushed grilled tomatoes. The grilled tomatoes not only add natural sweetness and brightness to the dish, but also contribute to its visual charm via their muted orangey reds. This color palette complements the eggplant’s earthy, slightly sweet taste, represented through rich, velvety white-green hues. The interplay of colors in the dish mirror the complexity of its flavors. The minced shrimp meat introduces a briny sweetness and a contrasting texture. The relish is seasoned to a sour-sweet leading salty to follow flavor profile, enhancing the smoky sweetness imparted by the grilled ingredients and creating a palette of flavor and color that is as attractive as it is delicious.

หลนกะปิคั่ว

กะปิคั่วเป็นเมนูอาหารประเภทหลนที่ในทุกวันนี้ค่อนข้างที่จะหารับประทานได้ยากตามร้านอาหารทั่ว ๆ ไป และ น้อยคนนักที่จะรู้จัก โดยอาหารประเภทหลนนั้นเป็นการนำหัวกะทิมาเคี่ยวกับของที่หมักทั้งหลาย เช่น แหนม ปลาร้า เต้าเจี้ยว กะปิ เป็นต้น เพิ่มเนื้อปลา กุ้ง หรือ หมู และ ปรุงรสโดยใช้น้ำปลา น้ำตาลมะพร้าว และ น้ำมะขามเปียก ซึ่งหลนที่อร่อยนั้นจะต้องมีลักษณะเป็นน้ำขลุกขลิก และต้องใช้เนื้อสัตว์ที่บดอย่างละเอียดเป็นส่วนประกอบ

c1920 Sarama Shrimp Curry with White Eggplants and Lotus Stems (แกงสะระหม่ากุ้งกับมะเขือขาว และ สายบัว พ.ศ. 2463; gaaeng saramaa goong gap makheuua khaao reuu saai buaa)

A dish of complex flavors and an aromatic brightness, this Sarama curry features shrimp and the smaller Thai white eggplant, or crunchy lotus stems, in a golden, salty leading broth with clear tangy-sweet notes. The broth is silky and combines the nutty richness of coconut cream with the subtle sweetness of butter, cooked with a blend of dry spices that include coriander, cumin and turmeric. This spice blend evokes the penetrating aroma of curry powder, reflecting Muslim culinary influences. Unlike spicy gaaeng phet (แกงเผ็ด) curries, which typically deploy dried chilies in the paste, Sarama curry contains fresh chilies. A mix of both red and yellow chili varieties are utilized, fusing the vibrant, fruity piquancy of the fresh chilies with the warm, earthy aromas of the spices. The red chilies contribute a ripe tropical fruitiness while the yellow offer citrusy and floral notes, creating a light yet layered curry with nuanced heat and depth of flavor.

Chuu Chee Curry of Stuffed Banana Chilies with Pork, Shrimp and Crab Meat (ฉู่ฉี่พริกสอดไส้ ; chuu chee phrik yuaak saawt sai)

This chuu chee features avocado-green banana chilies and the pinkish mixture of pork, shrimp and crab meats. The chilies are sliced open and stuffed with a mixture of the meats, which is seasoned with the basic saam gluuhr (สามเกลอ) paste – the Siamese trio of coriander roots, Thai garlic and white peppercorns. The stuffed chilies are then steamed before being cooked in a thick, reddish, coconut cream-based curry. The liquids collected in the tray during the steaming process are packed with the light sweet fruitiness of the banana chilies; these liquids are reserved and added to the broth, producing a bright and light-bodied dish.

Stir-fried Chicken with Baby Corn (ผัดไก่กับข้าวโพดอ่อน; phat gai gap khaao pho:ht aawn)

Phat gai gap khaao phoht aawn, chicken and baby corn stir-fried with garlic, sauce thickened by pounded corn kernels. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Clear soup with shredded chicken and rambutan stuffed with pork, shrimp and crab meat (แกงจืดก้อนแก้ว; gaaeng jeuut gaawn gaaeo)

Chicken Curry with Fresh Lychee (แกงไก่กับลิ้นจี่สด; gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht)

Gaaeng gai gap lin jee soht: coconut chicken curry with whole fresh lychee, added last to preserve its floral aroma. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

c1935 "Dry Curry" with beef over coconut infused jasmine rice (แกงแห้ง ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; gaaeng haaeng)

Gaaeng Raawn (แกงร้อน)

Gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) is a colloquial Thai term that refers to ‘hot curry’. Today, gaaeng raawn is used to denote soups or curries served with steamed rice. While the precise origin of the term is unclear, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was deployed in the 1800s for a specific dish – a Siamese soup featuring glass noodles, cooked as either a coconut or a water-based soup with an assortment of dry ingredients revered in Chinese cuisine. The soup’s potential health benefits, combined with its ease of preparation and subtle yet profound flavor, made it a popular choice for entertaining large groups of people, of all ages and backgrounds. The soup is often augmented with fresh proteins: in its more luxurious versions, multiple proteins may be added, including a combination of chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, and crab meat. Thus, over the years, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was established as a staple source of comfort and warmth for people of all walks of life in Siamese society.

Lattice-Wrapped Shrimp Bites (ล่าเตียง; laa dtiiang)

Laa dtiiang: shrimp and coriander filling folded in a finger-drizzled duck egg lattice. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.

Fried fermented shrimp paste relish with green apples by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกลูกแอปเปิ้ลผัด อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik luuk aaep bpeern phat)

Date Palm in Coconut Milk (อินทผาลัมน้ำกะทิ; in tpha lam naam ga thi)

In tpha lam naam ga thi, date palm hand-torn and served in freshly pressed coconut milk, lightly salted. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

ต้มยำกะทิหัวปลีย่างใส่ไก่

It will not be an overstatement to say that banana trees accompany Thai people from their birth to the afterlife. Starting with the decorative objects made out of banana leaves newborns receive to invite protective spirits, and continues their entire life with the endless uses for banana leaves, trunks and fruits; finally ending with the female spirit ghost, maae praai taanee (แม่พรายตานี), who resides in banana trees and Thai beliefs.

Stir-fried Sheatfish with Phrik Khing Paste (ผัดพริกขิงเนื้ออ่อน; phat phrik khing neuua aawn)

Phat phrik khing neuua aawn: scored sheatfish deep-fried in lard, topped with dry-pounded phrik khing paste. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Spicy Curry of Single Catfish (แกงเผ็ดปลาดุกโสด; gaaeng phet bplaa dook so:ht)

Gaaeng phet bplaa dook so:ht, spicy catfish curry with snakehead fish pounded into the paste, pickled bamboo shoots, and tamarind. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

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