หลนกะปิคั่วเป็นเมนูอาหารประเภทหลนที่ในทุกวันนี้ค่อนข้างที่จะหารับประทานได้ยากตามร้านอาหารทั่ว ๆ ไป และ น้อยคนนักที่จะรู้จัก
โดยอาหารประเภทหลนนั้นเป็นการนำหัวกะทิมาเคี่ยวกับของที่หมักทั้งหลาย เช่น แหนม ปลาร้า เต้าเจี้ยว กะปิ เป็นต้น เพิ่มเนื้อปลา กุ้ง หรือ หมู และ ปรุงรสโดยใช้น้ำปลา น้ำตาลมะพร้าว และ น้ำมะขามเปียก ซึ่งหลนที่อร่อยนั้นจะต้องมีลักษณะเป็นน้ำขลุกขลิก และต้องใช้เนื้อสัตว์ที่บดอย่างละเอียดเป็นส่วนประกอบ
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กะปิคั่วเป็นอาหารทางภาคกลาง ซึ่งในวันนี้หนุมานจะมานำเสนอให้ทุกคนได้รู้จักกันกับเมนูที่ทำไม่ยากและมีรสชาติแบบไทยแท้ ๆ ซึ่งจะรับประทานกับเครื่องเคียงที่ประกอบด้วย ผักสดนานาชนิด และ ที่ขาดไม่ได้คือ กุ้งฝอยทอด หรือ ปลาตัวเล็ก ๆ ทอดเป็นแพ ๆ
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Ingredients
- 200 g pork meat (เนื้อหมู) minced
- 2 1/2 cups coconut cream (หัวกะทิ)
- 3 tablespoons fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 3 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 2 fresh red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง)
- 2 fresh green long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าเขียว)
Chili Paste Ingredients
- 3-4 dried red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแห้ง)
- 4 rhizomes of krachai fingerroot
- 2 lemongrass (ตะไคร้)
- 1/2 cup shallots (หอมแดง)
- smoke-dried fish (all varieties) (ปลาย่างรมควัน) 3 to 4 fish
- 3 tablespoons fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ) kapi
Instructions
- Grill the dried fish over charcoal until it is crispy and lightly charred.
- Using your fingers, break the fish flesh into large chunks. Carefully observe the abdomen area and discard the remains of any internal organs. In a mortar and pestle, pound the fish meat finely.
- De-seed the dry chilies; soak in warm water until soft.
- In a mortar and pestle, pound the dry chilies into a fine paste.
- Add krachai, the lemongrass stalks and the shallots; pound into a fine paste.
- Add the pounded dry fish and fermented shrimp paste; work everything into an even paste.
- Place 1 1/2 cups of the coconut cream in a pan over medium heat; stir constantly, until the coconut cream and the oil separate. The oil should float on top.
- Add the chili paste; mix well, and cook for couple of minutes.
- Add the minced pork meat. Cook thoroughly.
- Add the remaining cup of coconut milk; cook and stir until the mixture thickens.
- Season with fish sauce and palm sugar.
- Add the green and red chilies cut into large chunks.
- Garnish with shallots, and the green and red chilies.
- Serve with fresh vegetables, fried shrimp or with crispy fish batter.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
c1941 Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies (แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณอย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng phet baaep bo:h raan)
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
Khanohm Jeen Naam Ngiaao – Shan-Style Tomato Broth over Fermented Rice Noodles with Pork, Chicken Feet and Chicken Blood Cakes (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
A popular noodle dish originating from the Northern region of the Kingdom, khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว) is characterized by its light – yet profound – multi-layered broth. This hearty broth includes an assortment of proteins braised with the dried pollens of cotton tree flowers, and Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม); the tomatoes infuse the broth with a subtle tartness that refreshes a full-bodied profile comprising a multitude of fermented ingredients.
The naam ngiaao broth is served over fermented rice noodles and features minced pork, and braised baby back pork ribs with their tender meat clinging to the bone. As well, there are succulent, slow-cooked whole chicken feet, and cubes of slightly bouncy, mauve-hued chicken blood cakes. Served alongside the soup are various toppings, which can include shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, chopped coriander leaves, and spring onions, while dark red chili oil and glossy, charred-fried dried bird’s eye chilies offer a fiery intensity dialed up to your preferred spiciness. In addition, I like to add wok-smoked sour cherry tomatoes and broom-like, crispy-fried dried cotton tree pollen for a surprising textural contrast.
Though the dish is often described as “Shan style”, the word ‘ngiao’ was a derogatory expression for the Shan people. As the disparaging – and outdated – label suggests, the recipe might reflect societal biases and prejudices; thus, at least from the culinary perspective, the ‘ngiao’ in the name of the dish may simply be a nod to the flavors or ingredients favored by The Shan, rather than a claim of authenticity – which could also explain why the dish is based on a Siamese curry paste.
Perfumed Muslim-style Curry of Fresh Chilies with Beef (แกงเขียวหวานเนื้อทรงเครื่อง; Gaaeng Khiaao Waan Neuua Sohng Khreuuang)
The Indian and Muslim cuisines present distinct approaches to using dried spices in curries, both of which influence Siamese cuisine in different ways. Indian-inspired Siamese curries spotlight chilies for their vibrant color, fragrance, flavor and heat, while spices like cumin and coriander play a supporting role. The spices complement and temper the chilies’ intensity, creating a rounded, multi-layered flavor profile; nonetheless, the chilies remain the star ingredient, gently complemented by the spices.
Conversely, Muslim-influenced curries, such as massaman curry, prioritize spices over chilies. Spices like cardamom, nutmeg and mace take center stage, while the chilies provide subtle background heat rather than being the primary flavor. In these curries, the focus is on the rich, warm and complex aromas created by the blend of spices, which is a defining characteristic of many Muslim dishes.
Moreover, Siamese cuisine favors using rehydrated dried chilies in curries for their depth; this depth is highly appreciated, along with the complexity, and comparatively milder heat of the rehydrated dried chilies. As well, the harsh grassy notes of fresh chilies are not favored; they’re referred to in Thai as “green rank” or “men khiaao (เหม็นเขียว)”. Muslim curries often use fresh green chilies, tempering their vibrant, grassy taste with dry spices and thus shifting the flavor from bright and fresh to more subdued and earthy tones, resulting in a dish that is perceived to be layered, despite the burst of fresh chilies.
Curry of yellow chilies with whole quail, fresh turmeric and lemon basil (แกงเผ็ดนกกระทาพริกเหลืองสด; gaaeng phet nohk grathaa phrik leuuang soht)
Salty leading and sour-sweet to follow, this coconut-based gaaeng phet spicy curry might be made of chilies, but it is fruitier than it is spicy, and lighter than it is dense. Originally cooked with the meat of game birds, it retains a surprisingly light body that opens space for the birds to fly. The curry is tinted golden orange from a paste imbued with fresh yellow chilies and turmeric; it is perfumed with lemongrass and lemon basil leaves.
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