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khao-phat-garee
Golden Chestnut Fried Rice with Mint and Tomato (ข้าวผัดกาหรี่; khaao phat garee), circa 1935
Dating from the early 1900s, this tempting fried rice dish highlights how the Siamese aristocracy savored their golden rice, perfumed with an alluring blend of imported spices. The dish can be enjoyed on its own or as part of a larger meal featuring curries and soups.
fish-and-two-basil
c1933 An Auspicious fish ball curry with two basils (แกงเผ็ดปลาเล็กปลาน้อย; gaaeng phet bplaa lek bplaa naawy)
Typically, in Central-style curries, different types of basil are not used together. In higher cuisine, it is an unstated – but understood – practice to avoid blending the definitive scents of various basils. A curry’s final herbal identity is intended to remain definitively with its basil: the citrus notes of holy basil; the spicy-woody and pungent flavor of tree basil; the tart fragrance of lemon basil; or the cooling anise sensation of Thai basil.
Grilled banana leaf parcels with shrimp curried rice (ข้าวงบกุ้ง)
Grilled banana leaf parcels filled with curried rice, shrimp meat grated coconut, and herbs. (ข้าวงบกุ้ง อย่างพระวิมาดาเธอ หม่อมเจ้าสาย ลดาวัลย์ ; khaao ngohp goong)
The khaao ngohp goong (ข้าวงบกุ้ง) of Mom Chao Sai Ladawan (Princess Saisawali Phirom) is a dish of seasoned curried rice mixed with shrimp meat, shrimp tomalley, grated coconut, and herbs. The rice mix is then wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Unwrapping the parcel reveals an intense orange- and russet-brown colored rice cake that is rich, savory and naturally sweet. It is served with a drizzle of thickened coconut cream and herbs.
gaaeng jeuut gaawn gaaeo
Clear soup with shredded chicken and rambutan stuffed with pork, shrimp and crab meat (แกงจืดก้อนแก้ว; gaaeng jeuut gaawn gaaeo)
Spicy Salad with Crispy Fish and Bird's Eye Chili (ยำปลากรอบกับพริกเม็ดเล็ก; yam bplaak raawp gap phrik met lek)
Spicy Salad with Crispy Fish and Bird's Eye Chili (ยำปลากรอบกับพริกเม็ดเล็ก; yam bplaak raawp gap phrik met lek)
Yam bplaak raawp gap phrik met lek - smoke-dried fish salad with fried aromatic herbs and salt-tempered bird's eye chilies. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
seasoned fish sauce
18 Seasoned fish sauce condiments (น้ำปลาปรุงรส ; naam bplaap roong roht)
"Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain" Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนครามแดง; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)
"Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain" Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนครามแดง; khanohm jeen khraam daaeng)
Sang-de-Boeuf Porcelain Fermented Rice Noodles featuring a coconut sauce infused with roasted shallots, garlic and mung beans. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Extraordinary Fresh Rice Crackers (ข้าวเกรียบสดวิเศษ; khaao griiap soht wi saeht)
Khaao griiap soht wi saeht: rice porridge spread thin on a khanom khrok griddle, filled with minced prawn and kaffir lime. Gingganok, 1935.
The Three Kings Curry
The Three Kings Curry (แกงเผ็ดสามกษัตริย์ ; gaaeng phet saam gasat)
Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa
c1949 Salad of grilled pork and coconut-cooked pumpkin by Maawm Ying Soophaa (ยำฟักทองกะทิ ตำราการปรุงอาหารยำ หม่อมหญิงสุภา พ.ศ. 2492; yam fak thaawng Gathi)
Goon Saa Lime-Cured Pork (กุญซ่า; goon saa)
Goon Saa Lime-Cured Pork (กุญซ่า; goon saa)
Goon saa: lean pork cured by lime juice and salt without fire, shredded and tossed with its own reduced pressing liquid. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.
naam-yaa
Khanohm Jeen Naam Yaa (ขนมจีนน้ำยา) - Fermented Rice Noodles with Minced Fish in Aromatic Coconut Curry
In the Central Plains of the Kingdom, fermented rice noodles are inextricably linked to a dish known as naam yaa. Composed of a dense, coconut-based minced fish curry, the dish is infused with layers of salted fish and possesses the distinctive, invigorating and purifying notes of fingerroot. Typically, naam yaa is served with fresh lemon basil as the herb of choice along with an array of side dishes collectively known as meuuat khanohm jeen (เหมือดขนมจีน). These include blanched bean sprouts seasoned with a touch of turmeric for color, fresh lemon basil leaves, thinly sliced three colored chilies, and ground chili for added heat. More elaborate versions will add blanched Chinese bitter gourd slices, batter-fried young morning glory shoots, and fresh shrimp minced and fried with its tomalley in pork lard, as well as crispy-fried shallots as the finishing touch.
Chuu Chee Chicken Curry (แกงฉู่ฉี่ไก่; gaaeng chuu chee gai)
Chuu Chee Chicken Curry (แกงฉู่ฉี่ไก่; gaaeng chuu chee gai)
Chuu Chee Chicken Curry, a rich aromatic dish simmered in thick coconut cream with lemongrass and dried chilies. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes.
The Ambassador’s House Style Noodle Soup (หมี่น้ำบ้านราชทูต; Mee Naam Baan Raat Thuut)
This soup dish features crispy rice vermicelli noodles, a chicken broth that has a three-flavor profile infused with the aroma of bitter orange, and a plethora of other ingredients such as crispy fried tofu, chicken, pork, crab and pickled garlic. In Thai, the phrase mee naam baan raat thuut refers to a rice vermicelli noodle soup in the style of the Ambassador’s house. The dish was not new when it appeared in the 1956 book Snacks, Tea Nibbles, Hors D’oeuvres and Drinking Food (ตำราอาหารว่าง - เครื่องน้ำชา และ เครื่องเคี้ยว หรือ กับแกล้ม) by Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), as noodle dishes were often the preferred ingredient for light meals or snacks. In Grandparents Recipes: 100 Years Old Recipes (จานอร่อยจากปู่ย่า สูตรโบราณ 100 ปี), a volume printed in 2014 that highlights recipes from the kitchens of fifteen prominent families, a similar version of the dish is referred to as mee naam baan bpaak naai leert (หมี่น้ำบ้านปาร์คนายเลิศ) and is associated with Nai Lert.
Thong Yip Naan Nueng (ทองหยิบนานนึ่ง; thaawng yip naan neung)
Thong Yip Naan Nueng (ทองหยิบนานนึ่ง; thaawng yip naan neung)
Thong Yip Naan Nueng, mold-fried wheat batter with crab, pork, and chicken, inverted mid-fry until golden. From Gingganok Gaanjanaaphaa, 1935.
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng Khuaa Chicken with Shatavari (แกงคั่วไก่สามสิบ; gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip)
Gaaeng khuaa gai saam sip, chicken curry with young shatavari fruit; paste fried in rendered coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Tom Yam of Snakehead Fish (ต้มยำปลาช่อน; dtohm yam bplaa chaawn)
Tom Yam of Snakehead Fish (ต้มยำปลาช่อน; dtohm yam bplaa chaawn)
Dtohm yam bplaa chaawn: snakehead fish in milled-rice broth, the chili jam pounded off the fire and dissolved in the bowl. Tamra Gap Khao, 1890.
naam phrik roy rot
Tamarind flower chili relish inspired by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกดอกมะขาม อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik daawk makhaam)
Chiang Mai-Style Chicken Gaaeng Garee (แกงเผ็ดกะหรี่เชียงใหม่ ; gaaeng phet garee chiang mai)
I discovered this unusual curry recipe hidden in a 1970 memorial book for Ms. Bootree Gralaksa. Born in Bangkok in 1898, Ms. Bootree spent her entire life, from childhood on, in a wooden house on Maha Chak Road (Pra Nakorn). One could say that she was born to be a great cook; just fourteen years old when her mother died, Ms. Bootree became the sole caregiver for her four siblings, a duty that she performed with a love and attention that endowed her with remarkable cooking skills. Her memorial book showcases now-forgotten dishes that were popular in the Bangkok of the early 1900s, such as Beautiful Curry (แกงหงษา ; Gaaeng Hohng Saa), and also includes some of her one-of-a-kind culinary creations – such as this dish, which she dubbed “Chiang Mai-Style Spicy Curry”.
Wild Boar Curry with Salacca (แกงหมูบป่าระกำ; gaaeng muup bpaa ra gam)
Wild Boar Curry with Salacca (แกงหมูบป่าระกำ; gaaeng muup bpaa ra gam)
Gaaeng muup bpaa ra gam, wild Boar curry with sourness from both tamarind and crushed salacca. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's Divine Dishes, 1949.
Tasty Beef (เนื้ออร่อย ; neuua araawy)
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