Coconut Cream-Based Chuu Chee of Pork and Shrimp Glazed with Shrimp Tomalley (แกงฉู่ฉี่หมูกับมันกุ้ง;  gaaeng chuu chee muu gap man goong)

The rich, fatty, full-bodied shrimp tomalley consists of the animal’s life-supporting and reproductive organs. Thus it is alleged to contain an immeasurable amount of magical energy that instills the dish with a pleasing vibrancy. The tomalley gives this chuu chee a regal aspect despite its simple appearance and its peripheral position on the menu.

This dish was inspired by a recipe by Princess Jancharoensiri Ratchanee (หม่อมเจ้าจันทร์เจริญศิริ รัชนี) (1901-1975). Princess Jancharoensiri was a prolific cookbook writer who published numerous books between the 1950s and 1970s under the pen name of J.J.R (จ.จ.ร; jor jor lor). The princess, born in 1901, was the great-granddaughter of Somdej Pra Pinklao, who, with his brother King Rama IV, ruled Siam as co-monarchs with equal titles and ranks. However, in 1938 J.J.R was expelled from the Royal Family and stripped of her titles for marrying a commoner without royal permission. She passed away as a commoner in 1975.

J.J.R starts by preparing a phrik khing curry paste from which she omits the kaffir lime zest and coriander roots, and adds no spices. She chooses dried red long chilies, which she de-seeds and rehydrates for their bright color and taste. She peels the shrimp, collects the tomalley, and slices the de-veined shrimp into bite-size pieces. Next, she cuts the pork into thin slices equal in size to the shrimp. Then, after the coconut cream is pressed fresh and all the ingredients are ready, J.J.R places a wok over medium heat and adds coconut cream. Constantly stirring, when the cream thickens and fat appears, she fries the phrik khing paste until fragrant. She then adds the sliced pork and shrimp and continues frying them until the meats are cooked.

Next, J.J.R seasons the dish to a salty leading and sweet follow flavor profile with fish sauce and palm sugar. After adding the sugar, she allows a brief frying, to produce a caramelization that makes the dish shimmer with a bright transparency.

J.J.R then scrambles the shrimp tomalley and pours it over the mixture in the wok. Without stirring this mixture, she covers the wok with a lid and lets the tomalley bake-cook into a glaze that adds richness, fantastic flavor bounty, and a touch of heart. Before serving the dish, J.J.R garnishes the chuu chee with thin juliennes of kaffir lime leaves and coriander leaves.