Stir-Fried Macaroni (มักกะโรนีผัด; mak ga ro:h nee phat)
Stir-Fried Macaroni (มักกะโรนีผัด; mak ga ro:h nee phat)
Mak ga ro:h nee phat, macaroni stir-fried with garlic-lard paste, pork, shrimp, and roasted peanuts. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Arabian noodles
c1936 Arabian noodles – Princess Maao Thongthaem’s Siamese-Orientalist fermented rice noodles light meal (ขนมจีนอาหรับ อย่าง เม้า ทองแถม; khanohm jeen aarap)
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice (ข้าวน่าอร่อย; khaao naa a raawy)
Delicious Rice, a royal Thai fried rice combining shrimp, pork and chicken with elaborate garnishes including pickled vegetables and salted egg. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
naam-yaa
Khanohm Jeen Naam Yaa (ขนมจีนน้ำยา) - Fermented Rice Noodles with Minced Fish in Aromatic Coconut Curry
In the Central Plains of the Kingdom, fermented rice noodles are inextricably linked to a dish known as naam yaa. Composed of a dense, coconut-based minced fish curry, the dish is infused with layers of salted fish and possesses the distinctive, invigorating and purifying notes of fingerroot. Typically, naam yaa is served with fresh lemon basil as the herb of choice along with an array of side dishes collectively known as meuuat khanohm jeen (เหมือดขนมจีน). These include blanched bean sprouts seasoned with a touch of turmeric for color, fresh lemon basil leaves, thinly sliced three colored chilies, and ground chili for added heat. More elaborate versions will add blanched Chinese bitter gourd slices, batter-fried young morning glory shoots, and fresh shrimp minced and fried with its tomalley in pork lard, as well as crispy-fried shallots as the finishing touch.
papaya salad ข้าวมันส้มตำ
Khaao man sohm dtam and the first-ever recorded recipe for papaya salad (ข้าวมันส้มตำ)
Khmer Rice Noodles with Fish Relish (ขนมจีนเขมร; jeen khaeh maawn)
Khmer Rice Noodles with Fish Relish (ขนมจีนเขมร; jeen khaeh maawn)
Khmer Rice Noodles with Fish Relish features smoke-dried barb fish prepared through a four-stage process with aromatic herbs. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
c1908 Fermented rice noodles and golden coconut chicken sauce with an Indian flair (ขนมจีนแขก หรือ ไก่ต้มขนมจีน ; khanohm jeen khaaek)
naam-yaa-jeen
Naam Yaa Jeen - Fermented Rice Noodles with Chinese Sauce by HRH Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (น้ำยาจีน อย่างกรมหลวงพิทักษมนตรี)
Among the various curries that can be poured over khanom jeen fermented rice noodles, this broth, known as Chinese-style “naam yaa,” is unique in that it is a water-based curry that does not have chilies. As such, rather than the typical reddish-rust color of most coconut-based naam ya dishes from the Central Plains of the Kingdom, the sauce glows with a soft, light ivory hue, beautifully reflecting the dish’s natural sweet-savoriness, which is derived from slow-braising three proteins – chicken, pork and shrimp – along with a curry paste galvanized by smoke-dried fish and aromatic roots like galangal, fingerroot and sand ginger. The naam ya broth is served over a bed of fermented rice noodles and garnished with toppings such as delicate pulled chicken breast threads, golden-crispy fried shallots and garlic, and vivid green fresh coriander leaves and spring onion. All these elements add a visual grace and a hint of freshness to the robust broth – the signature dish of Prince Krom Luang Pitak Montri (กรมหลวงพิทักษ์มนตรี).
ข้าวปลี khaao bplee
c1935 Char-grilled banana blossom stuffed and baked with tamarind relish fried rice (ข้าวปลี ตำรับสายเยาวภา พ.ศ. 2478 ; khaao bplee)
Three-Color Vegetable Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดผักสามสี; khaao phat phak saam see)
Three-Color Vegetable Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดผักสามสี; khaao phat phak saam see)
Three-color vegetable fried rice with diced chicken, carrot, peas and radish, the beans boiled in ash water to stay green. From Paan Nanthaaphiwat, 1953.
khao-prasuri
Phra Suli - Three-Flavor Seasoned Rice with Shrimp, Firm Pork Fat and Pork Skin (ข้าวพระศุลี; Khaao Phra Soolee)
Mrs. Paan Nanthaathiwat (คุณปาน นันทาถิวัฒน์) (1893-1955) was known for her kitchen skills. She often cooked for friends and family, spending time in the kitchen with her best friend, Mrs. Yim Pichaiyat Bunnag (คุณยิ้ม พิชัยญาติ บุนนาค (1892-1976). Thus, it was not a surprise when in 1953 she authored a recipe book as part of her merit offering on her 60th birthday. Sadly, Mrs. Paan passed away a year later and the publication, titled Hoong Khaao Dtohm Gaaeng (หุ้งข้าวต้มแกง), was later printed as a memorial book for her funeral. In 1977, the volume was reprinted for the funeral of her best friend, Mrs. Yim. It is unclear why Mrs. Paan named this citrusy, sour, and salty seasoned rice dish after Lord Shiva, calling it “Phra Suli (พระศุลี ; phra soolee)”. Yet I believe the name of the dish is meant to evoke the elegance and delicacy of the deity rather than to reference cultural authenticity or tradition.
Fermented Rice Noodles with Sweet Prawn-and-Mung-Bean Sauce (ขนมจีนน้ำพริก; khanohm jeen naam phrik)
Fermented Rice Noodles with Sweet Prawn-and-Mung-Bean Sauce (ขนมจีนน้ำพริก; khanohm jeen naam phrik)
Khanohm jeen naam phrik: fermented rice noodles with pounded prawn, roasted mung bean and tamarind-coconut sauce. Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
IMG_0010
ข้าวคลุกกะปิ อย่างหม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล
สูตรการทำข้าวคลุกกะปิของ หม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ซึ่งในสมัยนี้หาทานได้ค่อนข้างยาก  โดยความเค็มเราจะได้จากกะปิ ความเปรี้ยวได้จากมะม่วงดิบ หรือ มะดัน ความมันจากปลาดุกย่างทอด และ กุ้งแห้ง ความหวานได้จากหมูหวาน สูตรนี้ มหาเสวกเอก พระยาบุรุษรัตนราชพัลลภ ได้เขียนลงในบันทึกชื่อ "บุรุษรัตน" ว่า ในครั้งสมัยรัชกาลที่ 5 เสด็จประพาสยุโรปครั้งที่สองในปี พ.ศ. ๒๔๕๐ ได้ทรงนำกะปิไปด้วย และรับสั่งกับพระยาบุรุษรัตนราชพัลลภว่า...
Royal-Style Stir-Fried Unripe Rice with Pork and Seafood (ข้าวเหม้าหมี่; khaao mao mee)
Royal-Style Stir-Fried Unripe Rice with Pork and Seafood (ข้าวเหม้าหมี่; khaao mao mee)
Royal-Style Stir-Fried Unripe Rice with Pork and Seafood, a dry-fried Thai royal dish using pounded unripe rice instead of vermicelli. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
Palace-Style Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดชาววัง; khaao phat chaao wang)
Palace-Style Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดชาววัง; khaao phat chaao wang)
Khao phat chao wang, fried rice cooked in the rendered fat of salt-stewed pork with shrimp and egg. From Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Fish Miang Naem (เมี่ยงแนมปลา; miiang naaem bplaa)
Miiang naaem bplaa, grilled snakehead fish with fire-roasted galangal juice and bitter orange, served in lettuce cups. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Bird Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดนก; khaao phat nohk)
Bird Fried Rice (ข้าวผัดนก; khaao phat nohk)
Khaao phat nohk, field fowl or any small bird stir-fried with pork ham and mustard powder. From Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
Modified Turnip Cake (ขนมหัวผักกาดแปลง; khanom hua phak gaat bplaeng)
Modified Turnip Cake (ขนมหัวผักกาดแปลง; khanom hua phak gaat bplaeng)
Khanom hua phak gaat bplaeng: steamed turnip cake, deep-fried golden, then stir-fried with shrimp and egg. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Cancer Crab Egg Noodles (บะหมี่กรกฎ; ba mee gaaw ra goht)
Cancer Crab Egg Noodles (บะหมี่กรกฎ; ba mee gaaw ra goht)
Ba mee gaaw ra goht, puffed deep-fried egg noodles topped with crab, shrimp, and salted duck egg yolk balls. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
Khanohm Jeen Naam Ngiaao - Shan-Style Tomato Broth over Fermented Rice Noodles with Pork, Chicken Feet and Chicken Blood Cakes (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
A popular noodle dish originating from the Northern region of the Kingdom, khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว) is characterized by its light – yet profound – multi-layered broth. This hearty broth includes an assortment of proteins braised with the dried pollens of cotton tree flowers, and Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม); the tomatoes infuse the broth with a subtle tartness that refreshes a full-bodied profile comprising a multitude of fermented ingredients. The naam ngiaao broth is served over fermented rice noodles and features minced pork, and braised baby back pork ribs with their tender meat clinging to the bone. As well, there are succulent, slow-cooked whole chicken feet, and cubes of slightly bouncy, mauve-hued chicken blood cakes. Served alongside the soup are various toppings, which can include shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, chopped coriander leaves, and spring onions, while dark red chili oil and glossy, charred-fried dried bird’s eye chilies offer a fiery intensity dialed up to your preferred spiciness. In addition, I like to add wok-smoked sour cherry tomatoes and broom-like, crispy-fried dried cotton tree pollen for a surprising textural contrast. Though the dish is often described as “Shan style”, the word ‘ngiao’ was a derogatory expression for the Shan people. As the disparaging – and outdated – label suggests, the recipe might reflect societal biases and prejudices; thus, at least from the culinary perspective, the ‘ngiao’ in the name of the dish may simply be a nod to the flavors or ingredients favored by The Shan, rather than a claim of authenticity – which could also explain why the dish is based on a Siamese curry paste.
Special Egg Noodles (บะหมี่พิเศษ; ba mee phi saeht)
Special Egg Noodles (บะหมี่พิเศษ; ba mee phi saeht)
Ba mee phi saeht, egg noodles stir-fried with crab, chicken, and pork, garnished with scored carrots. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
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