ตํารับอาหารชาววัง Archives

Thai Salads, The Professional Chef's Guide เรื่องยำๆ

Sweet Egg (khai waan): candied salted duck egg yolk encased in floral agar jelly, molded inside an eggshell. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Siamese Fireback Chicken (ไก่พระยาลอ; gai phra yaa laaw)

Siamese Fireback Chicken, a deboned whole chicken stuffed with aromatic phrik khing (พริกขิง) paste and mung beans. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 royal Thai cookbook.

Dry-Fried Salted Spanish Mackerel Relish (ปลาอินทรีคั่ว; bplaa in see khuaa)

Bplaa in see khuaa — grilled salted mackerel pounded with seven aromatics, fried in roasted coconut oil. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Citrus-Infused Crumbled Duck Egg Yolk Salad (ไขเค็มพล่า; Khai Khem Phlaa)

This vibrant salad combines the richness of crumbled duck egg yolks with the zesty notes of citrus and aromatic herbs. Set against a backdrop of aromatics, the crumbled essence of cured duck egg yolks glow in a delicate orange-gold shade, evoking a shimmering sunlit dawn. The cured yolks bestow a rich, briny base that acquires even deeper undertones when seasoned with fish sauce and sugar. This base takes on a luxuriously silky texture, reminiscent of a finely whipped mousse, when mixed with juices of lime and kaffir lime, which also give the mix a crisp, clean citrusy finish.

ยำทวาย

This recipe would probably change your perception about the term "salad", maybe because its dressing has a multi layered, curry-like personality, rather than the common sour vinaigrette-like dressing, or maybe because it takes some good few hours to prepare, somewhat longer than simply opening a bag of hydroponic greens.

This salad is the fruit of the dedication of court ladies from aristocratic households, that for centuries perfected and elaborated on the art of cooking through detailed and calculated process, to create sophisticated dishes that are not only delicious but also very healthy and visually pleasing.

These ladies made a very large commitment for small things, and they attended all their time and efforts to make minor things better and getting the small things just right.

Chicken Satay (สะเต๊ะไก่; sa dteh gai)

Sa dteh gai: chicken on sugarcane skewers with bacon, basted with cream and breadcrumbs, served with a stewed-apple dip. Tamrap Sai Yaowapa, 1935.

Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad (ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบเสวย; yam phohn gra jiiap sa weeuy)

Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad combines wine-ruby roselle buds with pork and crispy aromatics in a bitter orange dressing. Components remain separate until serving, per Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 manuscript.

Delicious Rice Noodle Rolls (ฑำแรยำซ แป้งหลอดอร่อย; tham raae yam sa bpaaeng laawt a raawy)

Delicious Rice Noodle Rolls (แป้งหลอดอร่อย; tham raae yam sa bpaaeng laawt a raawy)

Delicious Rice Noodle Rolls, a Thai appetizer of rice sheets wrapped around seafood-pork filling and tied with spring onion. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.

“International Style” Spicy Curry (แกงเผ็ด แบบสากล; gaaeng phet baaep saa gohn)

Gaeng phet baaep saa gohn — beef pre-seared with fish sauce, curry paste bloomed in cracked coconut cream. green tomatoes or hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) and dual basils - Gingganok Gaanjanaaphaa, 1935.

Heavenly Maidens Floating in Crystal Syrup (ลอยแก้วสาวสวรรค์; laawy gaaeo saao sa wan)

Laawy gaaeo saao sa wan, peeled grapes and cherries in vanilla-scented crystal syrup. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1933 palace cookbook.

c1941 Roasted Duck Curry with Grapes (Gaaeng Ho) (แกงเป็ดเหาะใส่องุ่น อย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484; gaaeng bpet haw sai angoon)

Grapes have long been associated with prosperity, fertility and abundance across various cultures and historical periods due to the fruit’s large clusters and bountiful growth. In ancient China, grapes were considered a symbol of wealth and nobility, and often deployed as a status symbol among the elite. In Greek mythology, Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility, was often depicted holding a bunch of grapes, further emphasizing the connection between grapes and abundance. This association is also likely rooted in the fact that grapes were a valuable crop in antiquity – used to produce wine and other fermented products, and an important source of food and nutrition. In Indian Ayurvedic texts, grapes are referred to as vineaksha and utilized in treating a variety of ailments, including fever and indigestion. From the Siamese perspective, the incorporation of fruits in culinary preparations was viewed as a luxurious indulgence, as many fruits commonly available today were once difficult to obtain. Thus the pairing of an extravagant ingredient – such as fruit – with an equally opulent and exclusive delicacy like roasted duck resulted in a dish fit for royalty.

Refined-Taste Roasted Duck Curry (แกงเป็ดรสนิยม; gaaeng bpet roht ni yohm)

Gaaeng bpet roht ni yohm, a coconut-cream curry of grilled duck soured with salt-soaked star gooseberries. From Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949.

Saaeng Waa Shrimp (แสร้งว่ากุ้งสด; saaeng waa goong soht)

Saaeng waa goong soht, a shrimp relish of hand-torn just-cooked shrimp with pink ginger and kaffir lime. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

Fresh Shrimp Chili Relish (น้ำพริกกุ้งสด; naam phrik goong soht)

Naam phrik goong soht, a pounded shrimp relish with Songkhla tomalley paste, hairy eggplant, and salacca. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

แกงเผ็ดปลาไหลทรงเครื่อง

ตำรับปลาไหลนี้ ปัจจุบันมักจะคิดว่าเป็นแต่สำรับของชาวบ้าน หรือเป็นแค่อาหารลูกทุ่งเท่านั้น ความจริงแล้ว อาหารตำรับปลาไหลเป็นอาหารทั่วไปของคนทุกชนชั้น ทั้งไพร่สามัญชน ผู้ดีชาวกรุง หรือเจ้านายในรั้วในวัง ต่างมีตำรับแกงปลาไหลขึ้นสำรับทั้งนั้น ที่มีเขียนบันทึกไว้ก็มีหลายตำรับเลยทีเดียว เช่น ตำรับของหม่อมส้มจีน ตั้งแต่ ร.ศ. 109 มี "ต้มเปรตปลาไหล". ตำรับแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์ ของท่านผู้หญิงเปลี่ยน ภาสกรวงษ์ ตำรับวังมหานาค โดย ม.จ.หญิงวิมลปัทมราช จิรประวัติ ก็มี "แกงปลาไหล" ตำรับที่พิมพ์จำหน่ายในช่วง"รัฐนิยม"สมัยจอมพล ป. พิบุลสงคราม พิมพ์เมื่อ พ.ศ.2485 ก็มี "แกงเผ็ด ปลาไหลซงเครื่อง" หรือแม้แต่ที่เข้ากับสำนวนเกลียดปลาไหลกินน้ำแกงตรงเผง ไม่ชอบปลาไหล แต่อยากกินแกงปลาไหล ชาววังในสำนักพระวิมาดาเธอฯ นิยมใช้ปลาดุกมาแกงแทนปลาไหล ตามที่ม.ล.เนื่อง นิลรัตน์ ข้าหลวงในสมเด็จพระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอเจ้าฟ้านิภานภดล วิมลประภาวดีกรมขุนอู่ทองเขตขัตติยนารี บันทึกไว้ถึง "แกงปลาดุกอย่างปลาไหล" เอาใว้ด้วย

Stir-Fried Crispy Rice Vermicelli (ผัดหมี่กรอบ; phat mee graawp)

Phat mee graawp, rice vermicelli fried crisp in pork lard, seasoned salty–sweet–sour, finished with slivered bitter orange. Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.

Mandarine Orange Peel Salad (ยำผิวส้มจีน; yam phiu sohm jeen)

Yam phiu sohm jeen features carefully prepared mandarine orange peel combined with minced shrimp and pork. From Maawm Ying Soophaa's 1949 royal Thai culinary manuscript.

bplaa naaem (ปลาแนม) - A Siamese aristocratic small plate snack

Siamese Chili Relishes - The Professional Chef's Guide - น้ำพริก และ เครื่องจิ้ม

Stir-fried Sheatfish with Phrik Khing Paste (ผัดพริกขิงเนื้ออ่อน; phat phrik khing neuua aawn)

Phat phrik khing neuua aawn: scored sheatfish deep-fried in lard, topped with dry-pounded phrik khing paste. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.

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