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Instead of kapi, use salted Indian salmon, following the ratios, procedure and seasoning of a basic chili relish. Because salted Indian salmon is extremely salty and has a strong fishy smell, it should first be grilled with fresh fingerroot wrapped in banana leaf to mellow its odor. In addition, using dried shrimp as the main body of the relish will also help control the saltiness and minimize the fishy odor. Start making the relish by pounding the dried shrimp powder with garlic and without salt; only then should you add the fish. The rest of the procedure follows the making of a basic chili relish.
Serve with:
- Young green mango (มะม่วงเผาะ; mamuaang phaw), rose apple, santol,
- Grilled catfish (whole fish or a slice),
- Deep-fried snakehead fish (ปลาช่อนทอด).
Recommended prerequisites:
1. Siamese Chili Relishes – The Professional Chef’s Guide
2. How to prepare the basic fermented shrimp paste chili relish (น้ำพริกกะปิมาตรฐาน)
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Ingredients
- 1 tablespoons Salted Indian salmon chili relish (น้ำพริกปลากุเลาเค็ม) grilled with aromatics
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- 2 1/2 tablespoon dried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น)
- 4 pieces fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด) sliced thinly, crosswise
- 1 tablespoon three colors of chilies – red, green, yellow and chilies (พริกสามสี) sliced thinly, crosswise
- fish sauce (น้ำปลา) if needed
- 1 3/4 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 2 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
Optional
- madan (sour cucumber, มะดัน)(garcinia schomburgkiana) thinly sliced
- hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก) diced into small pieces
- salacca (สละ หรือ ระกำ) thinly sliced
- bitter orange (som.saa)(ส้มซ่า) diced into small pieces
- green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น) diced into small pieces
Serve with
- immature green mango (มะม่วงเผาะ)
- rose apple (ชมพู่)
- santol (กระท้อน)
- grilled catfish (ปลาดุกย่าง)
To grill the fish
- fingerroot (krachai) (กระชาย)
- Banana leaf (ใบตอง)
Instructions
- Because salted Indian salmon is extremely salty and has a strong fishy smell, it should first be grilled with fresh fingerroot wrapped in banana leaf to mellow its odor. In addition, using dried shrimp as the main body of the relish will also help control the saltiness and minimize the fishy odor. Start making the relish by pounding the dried shrimp powder with garlic and without salt; only then should you add the fish. The rest of the procedure follows the making of a basic chili relish.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.
However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
Pork Belly Coated with Salted-Fish and Green Mango Chili Relish (น้ำพริกมะม่วง หมูเคลือบเค็ม พ.ศ. 2476; naam phrik ma muaang mu khleuuap khem)
In this dish, slices of pork belly are coated with a sticky sauce; the sauce is reduced from braising a slice of grilled salted fish with coriander roots, garlic and white peppercorns (saam gluuhr). The dish is served with a sour-leading green mango chili relish that adds tartness with fiery accents to the saltiness of the pork. The salted fish gives the pork an initial fishy aroma that, although robust, gives way to a sense of home as it merges into the sourness and fruitiness of the mango chili relish. As an ingredient commonly used in the kitchens of rice-growing communities, salted fish signifies a comforting familiarity that conveys simplicity and warmth to the table. I like to pair the salted, fishy pork with seasoned rice dishes in which sour-leading relishes are mixed with rice along with other condiments.
This rich velvety relish […]
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