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Using salted Chinese black olives instead of kapi, follow the ratios, procedure and seasoning of a basic chili relish. That is, start by pounding dried shrimp and salt and when they fluff up, add garlic and salted Chinese black olives. Season using fish sauce, palm sugar and lime juice.
The relish can be served as is, or further fried in pork lard with the addition of pork fat cracklings (กากหมู) to enhance its richness and preserve it for a longer period.
Add to the relish (any or all):
- Hairy-fruited eggplant (มะอึก), diced into small pieces,
- Madan (sour cucumber, มะดัน) (garcinia schomburgkiana), sliced thinly,
- Green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น), diced into small pieces,
- Salacca,
- Yellow, red or green long chilies.
Serve with:
- Fresh vegetables,
- Fried steamed mackerel,
- Fried grilled catfish (whole fish or a slice),
- Sweet pork condiment.
Recommended prerequisites:
1. Siamese Chili Relishes – The Professional Chef’s Guide
2. How to prepare the basic fermented shrimp paste chili relish (น้ำพริกกะปิมาตรฐาน)
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Ingredients
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Salted Chinese black olive (หนำเลี้ยบ)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)
- 1/2 tablespoon dried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น)
- 4 pieces fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด) sliced thinly, crosswise
- 1/2 tablespoon fresh red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแดง) sliced thinly, crosswise
- 1/2 tablespoon fresh yellow chili (phrik leuang) (พริกเหลือง) sliced thinly, crosswise
- fish sauce (น้ำปลา) if needed
- 1 3/4 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 2 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- pork fat cracklings (กากหมู)
- pork lard (น้ำมันหมู) for frying
Optional
- madan (sour cucumber, มะดัน)(garcinia schomburgkiana) sliced thinly
- hairy-fruited eggplant (maeuk) (มะอึก) diced into small pieces
- salacca (สละ หรือ ระกำ) sliced thinly
- green mandarin orange (ส้มเหม็น) diced into small pieces
- bitter orange (som.saa)(ส้มซ่า) diced into small pieces
Serve with
- fresh vegetables (ผักสด)
- fried steamed mackerel (ปลาทูนึ่งและทอด)
- grilled catfish (ปลาดุกย่าง)
Instructions
- Using salted Chinese black olives instead of kapi, follow the ratios, procedure and seasoning of a basic chili relish.
- Optional – further fry in pork lard with the addition of pork fat cracklings (กากหมู)
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.
However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Pork Belly Coated with Salted-Fish and Green Mango Chili Relish (น้ำพริกมะม่วง หมูเคลือบเค็ม พ.ศ. 2476; naam phrik ma muaang mu khleuuap khem)
In this dish, slices of pork belly are coated with a sticky sauce; the sauce is reduced from braising a slice of grilled salted fish with coriander roots, garlic and white peppercorns (saam gluuhr). The dish is served with a sour-leading green mango chili relish that adds tartness with fiery accents to the saltiness of the pork. The salted fish gives the pork an initial fishy aroma that, although robust, gives way to a sense of home as it merges into the sourness and fruitiness of the mango chili relish. As an ingredient commonly used in the kitchens of rice-growing communities, salted fish signifies a comforting familiarity that conveys simplicity and warmth to the table. I like to pair the salted, fishy pork with seasoned rice dishes in which sour-leading relishes are mixed with rice along with other condiments.
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