Chanthabuun Rice Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวจันทบูรณ์; guay dtiaao jan tha buun)
Chanthabuun Rice Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวจันทบูรณ์; guay dtiaao jan tha buun)
Guay dtiaao jan tha buun, flat rice noodles topped with aromatic coconut duck sauce and crispy potato garnish. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Khmer Rice Noodles with Fish Relish (ขนมจีนเขมร; jeen khaeh maawn)
Khmer Rice Noodles with Fish Relish (ขนมจีนเขมร; jeen khaeh maawn)
Khmer Rice Noodles with Fish Relish features smoke-dried barb fish prepared through a four-stage process with aromatic herbs. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
Special Egg Noodles (บะหมี่พิเศษ; ba mee phi saeht)
Special Egg Noodles (บะหมี่พิเศษ; ba mee phi saeht)
Ba mee phi saeht, egg noodles stir-fried with crab, chicken, and pork, garnished with scored carrots. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Vietnamese-Style Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนญวน; khanohm jeen yuaan)
Vietnamese-Style Fermented Rice Noodles (ขนมจีนญวน; khanohm jeen yuaan)
Vietnamese-Style Rice Noodles features fermented rice noodles layered with fresh shrimp, pork, and herbs, dressed with a tangy sauce. From Jeeb Bunnak's 1945 cookbook.
khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
Khanohm Jeen Naam Ngiaao - Shan-Style Tomato Broth over Fermented Rice Noodles with Pork, Chicken Feet and Chicken Blood Cakes (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
A popular noodle dish originating from the Northern region of the Kingdom, khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว) is characterized by its light – yet profound – multi-layered broth. This hearty broth includes an assortment of proteins braised with the dried pollens of cotton tree flowers, and Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม); the tomatoes infuse the broth with a subtle tartness that refreshes a full-bodied profile comprising a multitude of fermented ingredients. The naam ngiaao broth is served over fermented rice noodles and features minced pork, and braised baby back pork ribs with their tender meat clinging to the bone. As well, there are succulent, slow-cooked whole chicken feet, and cubes of slightly bouncy, mauve-hued chicken blood cakes. Served alongside the soup are various toppings, which can include shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, chopped coriander leaves, and spring onions, while dark red chili oil and glossy, charred-fried dried bird’s eye chilies offer a fiery intensity dialed up to your preferred spiciness. In addition, I like to add wok-smoked sour cherry tomatoes and broom-like, crispy-fried dried cotton tree pollen for a surprising textural contrast. Though the dish is often described as “Shan style”, the word ‘ngiao’ was a derogatory expression for the Shan people. As the disparaging – and outdated – label suggests, the recipe might reflect societal biases and prejudices; thus, at least from the culinary perspective, the ‘ngiao’ in the name of the dish may simply be a nod to the flavors or ingredients favored by The Shan, rather than a claim of authenticity – which could also explain why the dish is based on a Siamese curry paste.
gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน)
Gaaeng Raawn (แกงร้อน)
Gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) is a colloquial Thai term that refers to ‘hot curry’. Today, gaaeng raawn is used to denote soups or curries served with steamed rice. While the precise origin of the term is unclear, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was deployed in the 1800s for a specific dish – a Siamese soup featuring glass noodles, cooked as either a coconut or a water-based soup with an assortment of dry ingredients revered in Chinese cuisine. The soup’s potential health benefits, combined with its ease of preparation and subtle yet profound flavor, made it a popular choice for entertaining large groups of people, of all ages and backgrounds. The soup is often augmented with fresh proteins: in its more luxurious versions, multiple proteins may be added, including a combination of chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, and crab meat. Thus, over the years, gaaeng raawn (แกงร้อน) was established as a staple source of comfort and warmth for people of all walks of life in Siamese society.
The Ambassador’s House Style Rice Vermicelli in Broth (หมี่น้ำบ้านราชทูต; mee naam baan raat thuut)
The Ambassador’s House Style Rice Vermicelli in Broth (หมี่น้ำบ้านราชทูต; mee naam baan raat thuut)
The Ambassador's House Style Rice Vermicelli features crispy rice noodles in a complex sweet-sour broth with multiple proteins. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.
Javanese-Style Dressed Glass Noodles (วุ้นเส้นชวา; woon seh chawa)
Javanese-Style Dressed Glass Noodles (วุ้นเส้นชวา; woon seh chawa)
Woon seh chawa: glass noodles in cinnamon-infused chicken broth with tangy dressing and layered toppings. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook of Thai snacks.
Fermented Rice Noodles with Sweet Prawn-and-Mung-Bean Sauce (ขนมจีนน้ำพริก; khanohm jeen naam phrik)
Fermented Rice Noodles with Sweet Prawn-and-Mung-Bean Sauce (ขนมจีนน้ำพริก; khanohm jeen naam phrik)
Khanohm jeen naam phrik: fermented rice noodles with pounded prawn, roasted mung bean and tamarind-coconut sauce. Lady Gleep Mahithaawn, 1949.
Malayu Beef Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวมาลายู; guay dtiaao maa laa yuu)
Malayu Beef Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวมาลายู; guay dtiaao maa laa yuu)
Malayu Noodles featuring tender beef simmered with cinnamon, cardamom, bay leaves, and cloves. From Jeeb Bunnag's Cookbook of Rice Companion Recipes, 1933.
ขนมจีนญี่ปุ่น
สูตรทำขนมจีนญี่ปุ่น - มีตำรับอาหารสมัยก่อนอย่างหนึ่ง เป็นสูตรของ ท่านผู้หญิงกลีบ มหิธร ดูเหมือนจะเป็นอาหารว่างคาว ให้ชื่อว่า “ขนมจีนญี่ปุ่น” ลองมาดูเครื่องปรุง และวิธีทำกัน ผู้อ่านจะบอกได้หรือไม่ว่า ตำรับนี้มีต้นกำเนิดจากดินแดนอาทิตย์อุทัย หรือไม่ประการใด ตำรับของท่านผู้หญิงกลีบ มีดังนี้
c1933 Gaaeng Khuaa Phrik Baang Chaang (แกงคั่วพริกบางช้าง) Thai kua curry served with khanom jeen fermented rice noodles topped with pickled garlic
c1933 Khuaa Curry with Bang Chang Chilies (แกงคั่วพริกขี้หนูหรือพริกชี้ฟ้า; gaaeng khuaa phrik baang chaang): Princess Dissakul's Smoky Fish Curry Recipe
Princess Dissakul's 1933 royal Thai curry featuring secretly pounded smoked fish in rich coconut cream with Bang Chang chilies and aromatic phrik khing paste. This complex, smoky curry builds layers of earth and ember, traditionally served over khanom jeen fermented rice noodles and topped with tangy pickled garlic for a perfect balance of smoke, spice, and tang.
Fermented rice noodles with multi-sour aromatic chicken sauce by Lady Gleep Mahithaawn (ขนมจีนน้ำพริกไก่ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงกลีบ มหิธร พ.ศ. 2492; khanohm jeen naam phrik gai)
c1949 Fermented rice noodles with multi-sour aromatic chicken sauce by Lady Gleep Mahithaawn (ขนมจีนน้ำพริกไก่ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงกลีบ มหิธร พ.ศ. 2492; khanohm jeen naam phrik gai)
Cancer Crab Egg Noodles (บะหมี่กรกฎ; ba mee gaaw ra goht)
Cancer Crab Egg Noodles (บะหมี่กรกฎ; ba mee gaaw ra goht)
Ba mee gaaw ra goht, puffed deep-fried egg noodles topped with crab, shrimp, and salted duck egg yolk balls. Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Stir-Fried Macaroni (มักกะโรนีผัด; mak ga ro:h nee phat)
Stir-Fried Macaroni (มักกะโรนีผัด; mak ga ro:h nee phat)
Mak ga ro:h nee phat, macaroni stir-fried with garlic-lard paste, pork, shrimp, and roasted peanuts. From Jeeb Bunnag, 1933.
Fermented Rice Noodles and Golden Coconut Chicken Sauce with an Indian Flair (ไก่ต้มขนมจีบ; gai dtohm khohn ma jeep)
Fermented Rice Noodles and Golden Coconut Chicken Sauce with an Indian Flair (ไก่ต้มขนมจีบ; gai dtohm khohn ma jeep)
Gai dtohm khohn ma jeep, a coconut-simmered chicken sauce with Indian influences served with fermented rice noodles. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
Three-Flavor Crispy Egg Noodles (บะหมี่สามรส; ba mee saam roht)
Three-Flavor Crispy Egg Noodles (บะหมี่สามรส; ba mee saam roht)
Ba mee saam roht: deep-fried egg noodles topped with shrimp, pork fat, jicama, and pineapple in a sour-sweet-salty sauce. Jeeb Bunnag, 1945.
naam-yaa
Khanohm Jeen Naam Yaa (ขนมจีนน้ำยา) - Fermented Rice Noodles with Minced Fish in Aromatic Coconut Curry
In the Central Plains of the Kingdom, fermented rice noodles are inextricably linked to a dish known as naam yaa. Composed of a dense, coconut-based minced fish curry, the dish is infused with layers of salted fish and possesses the distinctive, invigorating and purifying notes of fingerroot. Typically, naam yaa is served with fresh lemon basil as the herb of choice along with an array of side dishes collectively known as meuuat khanohm jeen (เหมือดขนมจีน). These include blanched bean sprouts seasoned with a touch of turmeric for color, fresh lemon basil leaves, thinly sliced three colored chilies, and ground chili for added heat. More elaborate versions will add blanched Chinese bitter gourd slices, batter-fried young morning glory shoots, and fresh shrimp minced and fried with its tomalley in pork lard, as well as crispy-fried shallots as the finishing touch.
Khanohm jeen with Hindu Style Nam Ya Sauce (น้ำยาฮินดู; naam yaa hin duu)
Khanohm Jeen with Hindu Style Nam Ya Sauce (น้ำยาฮินดู; naam yaa hin duu)
Naam yaa hin duu, a coconut curry sauce with red and white beans, flavored with fermented soybean paste. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
ขนมจีนซาวน้ำ อย่างท่านผู้หญิงกลีบ มหิธร
กลับจากวัดแล้ว เพลาเที่ยงพอดี ท่านขุนฯ ตั้งโต๊ะเลี้ยงสมาชิกบนเรือน ด้วยการทำ "ขนมจีนซาวน้ำ" ตามคำขอ ช่วงนี้จะทำอาหารอย่างขนมจีน สัก ๒ ตำรับ ให้ได้ชิมกันทั่วเรือนเรา แต่อย่าแค่กระนั้นเลย ขึ้นชื่อว่า ขุนวิเสทเลือดเย็น มีหรือจะทำอาหารไทยให้เหมือนคนอื่น ตำรับของเราต้องเป็นไทยแท้ และเป็นตำรับโบราณแบบที่คนปัจจุบันไม่เคยรู้มาก่อน จะทำให้ลูก ๆ หลาน ๆ ของเรางงกันเป็นไก่ตาแตกเลยทีเดียว....
Sand Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวทราย; guay dtiaao saai)
Sand Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวทราย; guay dtiaao saai)
Sand Noodles (guay dtiaao saai), featuring rice noodles cut fine as sand with aromatic coconut chili relish. From Jeeb Bunnag's 1945 cookbook.
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