Hi there,
It’s Hanuman.
You’ll notice the email looks different this week. Cleaner layout, more white space, easier to read on your phone. These manuscripts deserve close reading.
Drop me a line here. →This Week in the Archive
khaao niaao bproong phi saeht — Special Seasoned Glutinous Rice with Crab and Chicken
Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), 1945
The coriander leaves fry below the flame—lift the pan off the stove, or the color turns from green to what Mrs. Jeeb Bunnag calls “an unattractive orange.” Her Special Seasoned Glutinous Rice: steamed with coconut cream, mixed with sea crab and chicken breast, pressed smooth. Topped with salted egg yolk lamduan flowers—each petal larger than a peppercorn—steamed in egg white trimmed into sepals beneath.
This Week in the Archive
khaao naa a raawy — Delicious Rice
Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), 1945
Reserve the tomalley from shrimp heads. Stir-fry salted turnip, pork, chicken, and shrimp in pork lard, then fold in the tomalley mid-cook. Then rice. Mrs. Jeeb Bunnag’s 1945 fried rice. For garnish: salted duck egg yolks steamed and formed into balls the size of peppercorns. On the side: pickled papaya carved and vinegar-soaked until it stretches into bracelet shapes.
This Week in the Archive
gai phra yaa laaw — Siamese Fireback Chicken
Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), 1945
King Mongkut sent Siamese Firebacks to the Paris Museum in 1862—the only pheasant with a Thai name in Western nomenclature. Mrs. Jeeb Bunnag borrows that name for a deboned chicken stuffed with phrik khing paste and mung beans. The knife tip must stay close to the bone or the skin tears. Rub salt inside, hang to dry. The filling gets julienned salacca and hairy-fruited eggplant, balanced so sour, salty, and sweet stay distinct. Steam first, reserve the drippings, then roast with top and bottom heat—basting often. Slice into rounds.
This Week in the Archive
khaao pho:ht bpra dap — Decorated Corn
Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), 1945
Spiced chicken molded around baby corn, then decorated with real corn kernels set in rows using egg white. Mrs. Jeeb Bunnag layers husks over one side, flips the parcel, decorates the other—this keeps kernels from shifting during steaming. Eleven white peppercorns, nutmeg, cinnamon, and Indian turmeric tint the filling pale yellow. The finished cobs steam inside their husks. Wait for the heat to dissipate before moving them, letting the kernels lock into place. Now in the Archives.
This Week in the Archive
sai graawk groong — Capital-Style Sausage
Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), 1945
Meat from seven sea crabs, pork, chicken, and two pounds of bread soaked in milk—stuffed into casings cleaned with torn banana leaves and tamarind, smoked over sugarcane peels and coconut residue. Now in the Archive.
This Week in the Archive
naam yaa hin duu — Khanohm Jeen with Hindu Style Nam Ya Sauce
Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), 1945
No fish in this nam ya. Jeeb Bunnag’s 1945 Hindu-style version builds body from red and white beans, with tao chiao for fermented depth. Steam the beans, sweet potato, and aromatics together before pounding—the whole paste goes into the steamer first. Blanched bean sprouts take a dusting of turmeric until pale yellow. Fry the shallots in freshly extracted coconut oil.
This Week in the Archive
khanohm jeen yuaan — Vietnamese-Style Fermented Rice Noodles
Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค), 1945
Fresh shrimp sliced flat, their head tomalley added back. Pork boiled pale. Dried shrimp pounded to powder. Peanuts sliced thin. A sharp chili-vinegar dressing over fermented rice noodles and raw herbs
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Best regards, Hanuman |
P.S. New folios publish daily at the Archive.
This week’s folios:
– ขนมจีนเขมร — khanohm jeen khamen • Khmer Rice Noodles with Fish Relish (Jeeb Bunnag, 1945)
– ก๋วยเตี๋ยวจันทบูรณ์ — Chanthabuun Rice Noodles – Aromatic Coconut Duck Noodles with Crispy Potato (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวจันทบูรณ์; guay dtiaao jan tha buun) (Jeeb Bunnag, 1945)
– บะหมี่พิเศษ — Special Egg Noodles – Deluxe Stir-Fried Noodles with Crab, Chicken and Pork (บะหมี่พิเศษ; ba mee phi saeht) (Jeeb Bunnag (จีบ บุนนาค; Mrs. Samakkhanatthon), 1945)
– น่าตั้งเสฉวน — Rice Crackers with Sichuan Style Naa Dtang Savory Topping (Jeeb Bunnag, 1945)
– กะเทียมเจียวรสสูง — Enhanced Fried Garlic with Bird’s Eye Chilies and White Peppercorns (Mom Ying Supha, 1949)
– ยำนางปู — Gravid Female Sea Crab and Egg Roe Salad with Dried Squid, Cucumber and Roasted Peanuts (Mom Ying Supha, 1949)
This week’s folios:
– ข้าวเหนียวนึ่งหน้าเนื้อ — Steamed Gelatinous Rice with Beef Topping (Jeeb Bunnak, 1945)
– แกงพวงพยอม — Shorea Flower Curry (Maawm Ying Soopha, 1949)
– ลูกรอกไส้ไก่ — Egg Sausage in Chicken Intestine (Jeeb Bunnag, 1933)
– ยำผิวส้มจีน — Mandarine Orange Peel Salad (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
– แกงจืดฟักเขียวตุ๋น — Steamed Stuffed Winter Melon Clear Soup with Crab, Pork and Egg Sausage (Jeeb Bunnag, 1933)
– ยำขนุนอ่อน — Young Jackfruit Salad (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
– แกงเป็ดสวรรค์ — Heavenly Duck Curry (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
This week’s folios:
– ข้าวเหนียวนึ่งหน้าเนื้อ — Steamed Gelatinous Rice with Beef Topping (Jeeb Bunnak, 1945)
– แกงพวงพยอม — Shorea Flower Curry (Maawm Ying Soopha, 1949)
– ลูกรอกไส้ไก่ — Egg Sausage in Chicken Intestine (Jeeb Bunnag, 1933)
– ยำผิวส้มจีน — Mandarine Orange Peel Salad (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
– แกงจืดฟักเขียวตุ๋น — Steamed Stuffed Winter Melon Clear Soup with Crab, Pork and Egg Sausage (Jeeb Bunnag, 1933)
– ยำขนุนอ่อน — Young Jackfruit Salad (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
– แกงเป็ดสวรรค์ — Heavenly Duck Curry (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
Special Seasoned Glutinous Rice, a royal Thai palace dish featuring coconut-infused sticky rice with crab and chicken. From Jeeb Bunnag’s cookbook, 1945.
This week’s folios:
– แกงปลาช่อนมะดันดอง — Snakehead Fish Curry with Pickled Madan and Kaffir Lime (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
– ห่อหมกไก่มะพร้าวอ่อน — Chicken Curry Steamed in Young Coconut (Gingganok Gaanjanaaphaa, 1948)
– ข้าวต้มันฝรั่ง — Potato Rice Soup with Pork, Shrimp and Crab (Gingganok Gaanjanaaphaa, 1935)
– ข้าวเหนียวหน้าปลาทอง — Sticky Rice with Golden Fish Topping (Jeeb Bunnak, 1945)
– ยำมัจฉาสวรรค์ — Celestial Fish Salad (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
– ยำแห้วจีน — Chinese Water Chestnut Salad (Jeeb Bunnag, 1933)
– ยำผลกระเจี๊ยบเสวย — Royal-Style Roselle Bud Salad (Maawm Ying Soophaa, 1949)
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