In Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s book “Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (MKHP) (ตำราแม่ครัวหัวป่าก์)”, naam phrik laao chili relish was employed in various recipes. Rarely used anymore this relish was used as a seasoning agent for salads or as a dipping sauce for dishes such as grilled prawns and young neem tree leaves and flower buds (กุ้งเผาสะเดาลวก), and chicken or duck cooked with galangal in coconut cream (dtohm khaa; ต้มข่าเป็ด หรือ ไก่). Naam phrik laao was pushed out of the Siamese culinary repertoire and was replaced by a more contemporary styled fried chili jam and sweetened fish sauce dip (naam bplaa waan; น้ำปลาหวาน).
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Naam phrik laao is almost identical to tamarind flesh chili relish (naam phrik sohm ma khaam bpiiak; น้ำพริกส้มมะขามเปียก) but, instead of using fresh garlic cloves, naam phrik laao deploys very ripe garlic cloves that have been stored long enough to turn transparent ivory and yellowish in color.
Naam phrik laao is also known as “cooked garlic chili relish (naam phrik gra thiiam sook ; น้ำพริกกระเทียมสุก)” because when it was difficult to find soft, ripened garlic cloves that had not rotted, Siamese cooks substituted steamed garlic cloves for the ripened ones.
Tamarind flesh chili relish, cooked garlic chili relish, and naam phrik laao werebasic elements of Central-style Siamese cuisine and were used in diverse dishes such as salads (yam), mixed seasoned rice dishes (khaao khlook; ข้าวคลุก) toppings for crispy rice crackers (naam phrik thaa khaao dtang ; น้ำพริกทาข้าวตัง) and Central Plains-style rice salads (khaao yam baaep phaak glaang ; ข้าวยำแบบภาคกลาง).
In “Tamra Aahaan Waang”, a book printed in 1936 for the Royal Cremation Ceremony of Princess Mao Thongthaem (ม.จ.หญิงเม้า ทองแถม), the wife of His Royal Highness, Prince Thongthaem Thavalyawongse, the 34th Son of Rama IV, Princess Mao Thongthaem uses naam phrik laao in her recipe for Central Plains-style rice salad (khaao yam baaep phaak glaang; ข้าวยำแบบภาคกลาง).
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- 5 dried red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแห้ง) washed, deseeded, and rehydrated
- 1 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 15 cloves Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) steamed until soft, and then peeled
- 1/4 tablespoon tamarind flesh (เนื้อมะขามเปียก) minced
- 1 tablespoon tamarind paste (น้ำมะขามเปียก)
- 1/2 tablespoon lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 5 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- Remove the seeds from the tamarind flesh and mince it on a cutting board with a knife. Set aside.
- Steam the Thai cloves unpeeled until they are soft. Peel and set aside.
- Wash the chilies, remove the seeds, and rehydrate them in boiling water.
- Pound the chilies with salt in a mortar and pestle until the mixture is smooth, then add the garlic and tamarind flesh and pound to a fine consistency.
- Season with lime juice, fish sauce, and palm sugar to a sour leading sweet and salty flavor profile, using the ratios indicated.
2. if preparing naam phrik laao to season mixed rice dishes, make it somewhat runnier by diluting it with water.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Metropolitan Chili Relish: The 20-Ingredient Pinnacle of Thai Relishes (น้ำพริกนครบาล; Naam Phrik Na Khaawn Baan)
Originating in the early 1800s, Metropolitan Chili Relish is cheerful and complex, yet unassuming – a subtly epic relish composed of more than 20 ingredients, some of which are seasonal. The relative absence of this relish from contemporary menus could be attributed to its difficult-to-assemble ingredient list, coupled with a dwindling number of chefs who are adept at its preparation.
However, despite its intricate composition, the relish adheres to the same foundational culinary principles of other shrimp paste (kapi) chili relishes. Here, though, the savoriness is strengthened with smoke-dried fish, grilled shrimp and pork fat crackling; and the relish is seasoned to a citrus-infused, fruity, sour-sweet leading and salty to follow flavor profile, to which numerous sour and sour-sweet elements are mixed in – akin to a deep-rooted tree extending its branches to bear colorful fruits that shine in varying shades of a tartness.
Fried fermented shrimp paste relish with green apples by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (น้ำพริกลูกแอปเปิ้ลผัด อย่าง หม่อมเจ้าหญิงจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล ; naam phrik luuk aaep bpeern phat)
A century ago, modernity […]
Khanohm Jeen Naam Yaa (ขนมจีนน้ำยา) – Fermented Rice Noodles with Minced Fish in Aromatic Coconut Curry
In the Central Plains of the Kingdom, fermented rice noodles are inextricably linked to a dish known as naam yaa. Composed of a dense, coconut-based minced fish curry, the dish is infused with layers of salted fish and possesses the distinctive, invigorating and purifying notes of fingerroot. Typically, naam yaa is served with fresh lemon basil as the herb of choice along with an array of side dishes collectively known as meuuat khanohm jeen (เหมือดขนมจีน). These include blanched bean sprouts seasoned with a touch of turmeric for color, fresh lemon basil leaves, thinly sliced three colored chilies, and ground chili for added heat. More elaborate versions will add blanched Chinese bitter gourd slices, batter-fried young morning glory shoots, and fresh shrimp minced and fried with its tomalley in pork lard, as well as crispy-fried shallots as the finishing touch.