Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)

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Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)

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Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap with bile, cow’s gastric juice, and fresh blood

Laap connoisseurs consider the meat of a buffalo superior to that of a cow. Buffalo meat is leaner, less gamey, and often described as sweet. If you can’t get buffalo meat then, by all means, use beef as a substitute. The village men will often use blood, gastric juice, and bile to season the laap to a bitter taste. The use of these ingredients varies depending on one’s personal taste; they can be used lavishly or omitted altogether. Furthermore, this laap dish can be served raw or cooked, and prepared with meat only or including various internal organs such as the liver, kidneys, intestines, and stomach lining (tripe), called in Thai rag or phaa khee riu (ผ้าขี้ริ้ว).

“Bitter to death, I will not protest (ขมตายบ่เอาเรื่อง; khohm dtaai baaw ao reuuang)” is the popular expression used to describe the scrumptious bitter taste of laap with bile. The bitterness of the bile is a source of pleasure: bitterness is associated with medicinal properties and enhances the meat’s inherent sweetness. After all, sweet, bitter, and umami tastes are all triggered by chemical stimulation of the same G-protein-coupled receptors through direct chemical bonding. If you have difficulties sourcing cow’s bile in your area, or find the idea of using it weird or extreme, there is a substitute that you may find more approachable – a Campari liqueur reduction. With this, you can introduce both moderate bitterness and the color of blood to the dish. I also encourage you to experiment with raw meat dishes and bitterness; for example, add the faux bile sauce or Angostura bitters to steak tartare.

A cow’s gastric juices (น้ำเพี้ย ; naam phiia) are obtained by squeezing the contents of the cow’s stomach, usually undigested straw, straining them and bringing to a boil. It is an optional addition to a bitter laap, which adds herbaceous, gamey, and acidic notes to the dish – along with elements of friendship, manly brotherhood and testosterone.

Essential Cooking Skills:

How to prepare fresh blood วิธีเตรียมเลือดสดสำหรับการทำอาหาร
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working with blood
Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
Bitter buffalo laap with bile, cow’s gastric juice, and fresh blood. Buffalo meat is lean and often described as sweet.
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Prep Time 30 minutes
Course laap
Cuisine Northern Thai Cuisine
Servings 4

Ingredients
  

  • 250 g buffalo meat (เนื้อควาย)
  • 1/4 cup fresh pork blood (เลือดหมูสด) or cow, or buffalo blood (optional)
  • 2 tablespoons lemongrass (ตะไคร้) thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons shallots (หอมแดง) thinly sliced
  • beef tripe (phaa khee riu) (ผ้าขี้ริ้ว) cooked and sliced (optional)

For the seasoning broth:

The herbs:

Optional:

  • 1 tablespoon cow's bitter bile (ดีวัวขม) (dee wuaa khohm)
  • 1 tablespoon cow's gastric juices (น้ำเพี้ย) (naam phiia)

For the Faux bile sauce:

  • 1 part Campari liqueur (เหล้าคัมพารี)
  • 1 part water (น้ำเปล่า)

Instructions
 

  • On a cutting board and using a knife, mince the buffalo meat, with or without fresh blood, to a smooth consistency. Do not use a meat grinder or an electric food processor. Set aside.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)

Prepare the rest of the ingredients:

  • Thinly slice the shallots lengthwise along the growth axis. Set aside.
  • Bruise and thinly slice the lemongrass. Set aside.

Prepare the seasoning broth:

  • Bring a small amount of water or stock to a boil in a pot.
  • Add fish sauce.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Add phrik laap
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Add laap spices mix
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Add makwen
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. Adjust the spiciness with ground dried chilies; adjust numbness with makwen; adjust saltiness with either fish sauce or makwen-infused fish sauce; and adjust the spice aroma with the laap spices mix.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)

Prepare the Campari reduction (faux bile):

  • In a pot, bring to a boil equal amounts of Campari liqueur and water, on low heat. Reduce the sauce by half, and the alcohol burns away. Allow to cool and set aside.

Prepare the gastric juices (optional):

  • Strain the cow’s gastric juices.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Bring to a boil. Allow to cool and set aside.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)

Prepare the herbs:

  • Thinly slice the spring onion. Set aside.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Roughly chop the coriander leaves. Set aside.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Roughly chop the Vietnamese coriander.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Pick small young mint leaves and use them whole; larger leaves can be hand-torn. Set aside.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)

Combine the laap:

  • Combine the minced meat with the sliced lemongrass and shallots in a mixing bowl.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Optional: add fresh blood to your preferred consistency.
  • Gradually add seasoning broth.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. Adjust the spiciness with ground dried chilies; adjust numbness with makwen; adjust saltiness with either fish sauce or makwen-infused fish sauce; and adjust the spice aroma with the laap spices mix.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Optional: When you are satisfied with the seasoning, add the bitter elements of your choice to your liking. It can be either cow’s bitter bile, commercial bile products, or faux bile sauce.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Optional: Add the treated gastric juices.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Add the herbs and mix. Keep some for garnish.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
  • Serve raw, or roast in a pan and serve cooked.
  • Garnish with the remaining herbs.
  • Serve alongside phak gap laap (ผักกับลาบ) – fresh herbs and vegetables.
    Northern Thai-style bitter buffalo laap (ลาบจิ้นควายขม; laap jin khwaai khohm)
Keyword laap (ลาบ)
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