เนื้อหานี้ถูกล็อค
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Kapi pla is a hand-mixed fermented shrimp paste relish. It appears in Lady Plean Passakornrawong’s 1908 culinary bible, Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa, in two forms. The first variation is seasoned to a sour-salty profile, while the second displays sweetness as well. Because fermented shrimp paste (kapi) is the key ingredient and the star of the dish, Lady Plean recommended the use of an exceptionally pungent kapi in this recipe.
What follows is a kapi pla recipe by Princess Jongjittanom Dissakul (อาหารของโปรด ของหม่อมเจ้าจงจิตรถนอม ดิศกุล) – a version that elicited high praise from King Rama V. It is also one of the only relish recipes published in Favorite Dishes (อาหารของโปรด) that has quantified measurements. The recipe is very detailed and lists the cutting styles, the order in which to combine the ingredients, and other helpful hints for good results.
This recipe sounds a lot like the recipe for jungle chili relish (น้ำพริกป่า; naam phrik bpaa), with the addition of bitter orange and the use of dried shrimp powder instead of grilled shrimp meat. However, due to its historical significance and its distinct flavor, I believe it deserves a separate section.
Similarly, Lady Plean expressed concern about the odor of fermented shrimp paste (kapi) and recommended using only high-quality, pungent kapi. Princess Dissakul advises stirring the fermented shrimp paste with citrus juices in order to mellow its aroma, and only then proceeding to mix in the rest of the ingredients.
Lady Plean serves the relish with fresh vegetables, sweet pork, grilled catfish and salted duck eggs, while Princess Dissakul prefers to serve it with fried crispy fish, watermelon, morning glory, eggplant or cucumber.
Recommended prerequisites:
1. Siamese Chili Relishes – The Professional Chef’s Guide
2. How to prepare the basic fermented shrimp paste chili relish (น้ำพริกกะปิมาตรฐาน)
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Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons dried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น)
- 2 tablespoons fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ) grilled
- 1 1/2 tablespoon Thai garlic (กระเทียมไทย) thinly sliced, crosswise
- 2 1/2 tablespoon shallots (หอมแดง) thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon fresh yellow chili (phrik leuang) (พริกเหลือง)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons bitter orange peel (som.saa)(ผิวนส้มซ่า)
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 2 tablespoons lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
- 1 tablespoon bitter orange juice (som.saa)(น้ำส้มซ่า) of one large fruit, peeled before squeezed
- 2 tablespoons palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
Serve with
- watermelon (แตงโม)
- snakehead fish, semi-salted and sun-dried (ปลาช่อนแดดเดียว) fried
- fresh vegetables (ผักสด)
Instructions
- Grill the fermented shrimp paste (kapi) in banana leaves. Set aside. (Video: How to grill fermented shrimp paste in banana leaves)
- Peel and thinly slice the shallots lengthwise.
- Peel and thinly slice the garlic crosswise.
- Peel the bitter orange. Cut the peels into thin slices and soak them in water to remove some of their bitterness.
- Squeeze the bitter orange’s juice from a fully peeled fruit.
- Squeeze the juice from two limes to yield approximately two tablespoons.
- In a mixing bowl, combine the lime juice and bitter orange juice.
- Add the fermented shrimp paste (kapi) and dissolve it in the citrus juices. Continue to stir until the smell of the kapi has faded and mellowed.
- Add the dried shrimp powder.
- Taste and finalize seasoning the salty element seasoning to a sour-salty flavor profile. Add salt and fish sauce gradually because the base saltiness of the kapi you are using might vary.
- Add palm sugar, and season to a desired sour-sweet-salty or sour-salty-sweet flavor profile.
- Add the sliced garlic and sliced shallots.
- Add the sliced yellow chilies. Reserve some for the garnish.
- Serve and garnish with the rest of the chilies and the sliced and washed bitter orange peel.
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Khanohm Jeen Naam Ngiaao – Shan-Style Tomato Broth over Fermented Rice Noodles with Pork, Chicken Feet and Chicken Blood Cakes (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
A popular noodle dish originating from the Northern region of the Kingdom, khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว) is characterized by its light – yet profound – multi-layered broth. This hearty broth includes an assortment of proteins braised with the dried pollens of cotton tree flowers, and Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม); the tomatoes infuse the broth with a subtle tartness that refreshes a full-bodied profile comprising a multitude of fermented ingredients.
The naam ngiaao broth is served over fermented rice noodles and features minced pork, and braised baby back pork ribs with their tender meat clinging to the bone. As well, there are succulent, slow-cooked whole chicken feet, and cubes of slightly bouncy, mauve-hued chicken blood cakes. Served alongside the soup are various toppings, which can include shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, chopped coriander leaves, and spring onions, while dark red chili oil and glossy, charred-fried dried bird’s eye chilies offer a fiery intensity dialed up to your preferred spiciness. In addition, I like to add wok-smoked sour cherry tomatoes and broom-like, crispy-fried dried cotton tree pollen for a surprising textural contrast.
Though the dish is often described as “Shan style”, the word ‘ngiao’ was a derogatory expression for the Shan people. As the disparaging – and outdated – label suggests, the recipe might reflect societal biases and prejudices; thus, at least from the culinary perspective, the ‘ngiao’ in the name of the dish may simply be a nod to the flavors or ingredients favored by The Shan, rather than a claim of authenticity – which could also explain why the dish is based on a Siamese curry paste.
c1941 Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies (แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณอย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng phet baaep bo:h raan)
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
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